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Posted: 4/26/2016 12:36:07 PM EDT

I want to measure the velocity of a cannon ball fired from
my full sized replica of a Rev War era cannon.
<o:p></o:p>




I have found several diy ballistic chronographs that I think
would work with some modification.  The
chronographs I have found on line were designed for paintball guns and arrows and use LEDs to trigger the recording software.
I do not believe the LED solution would work in my case because there
are tremendous amounts of fire and smoke released when the cannon is fired
which will certainly either overload the sensors or completely mask them.
<o:p></o:p>




What I think I need is a means to mimic the LED sensors; I
believe that the software uses the "on”, "off”, "on” impulse to begin and end
the recording.  The designs I found on
line make use of the computer’s sound card and free software; the design is on
the 54Airgun Forum and was posted by Dimitrios Michaillidis, the thread is: http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/thread/1312148525/Poor+Man's+Electronic+Chronograph the software I want to use is CoilChrono and can be found at: http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1485256.
<o:p></o:p>




Very early ballistic chronographs used a wire that was
broken by the projectile to trigger the recording device.   I think that if I could employ the use of a
wire I could couple it with the modern computer recording software.
<o:p></o:p>




I think that my solution would have two wires each at the
"beginning” and "end” triggers.  One wire
would carry the current to the sound card and be broken by the projectile.  As soon as this wire was broken "something”
would quickly switch the current to the second wire; this action would be
repeated at the "end” trigger.
<o:p></o:p>




The "something” is where my knowledge ends.  I think the switching needs to be about as
fast as the "on”/”off”/”on” impulse of the LED as the projectile breaks the
beam and then allows it to reestablish itself as the projectile moves out of
the beam’s path the voltage into the sound card also must not damage the sound card.
<o:p></o:p>




Any help would be greatly appreciated.
<o:p></o:p>

Link Posted: 4/26/2016 12:48:26 PM EDT
[#1]
high speed camera and some sort of measuring device as a back drop.  Then calculate.  There may even be a cell app that does that or you could change recording speed of your camera.
Link Posted: 4/26/2016 2:46:51 PM EDT
[#2]
High speed cameras are some of the things I don't have.  And it sounds rather complicated to figure out how to set up the cameras and make them work.  The reference board (for want of a better term) would have to be rather substantially built to withstand the muzzle blast and it would be a one time use item.



I'm really looking for a simple electronic alternative to the LEDs in the design referenced.
Link Posted: 4/26/2016 3:12:21 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
High speed cameras are some of the things I don't have.  And it sounds rather complicated to figure out how to set up the cameras and make them work.  The reference board (for want of a better term) would have to be rather substantially built to withstand the muzzle blast and it would be a one time use item.

I'm really looking for a simple electronic alternative to the LEDs in the design referenced.
View Quote

I have experience with high speed cameras. They're not cheap, but they're actually quite easy to use. You install software on your PC, connect the camera with an Ethernet cord, and record some footage. The difficulty comes in achieving high enough frame rates without dimming the image too much. The higher the frame rate, the more light is necessary to produce a bright enough image. The cameras are also relatively expensive.

Unfortunately with the smoke and debris, you're not going to be able to use optics to achieve your goal. Even IR won't cut it with the heat from the blats. You'll probably need ultrasonic or RF.
Link Posted: 4/26/2016 4:29:06 PM EDT
[#4]
I realize IR or some other optical thing won't work.  That's why I want to use a conductive wire where other's have used IR.



This has to be low cost so high speed cameras are out.
Link Posted: 4/26/2016 11:39:21 PM EDT
[#5]
You can likely achieve this with an Arduino accurately enough. You can set two pins as outputs and two as inputs. Connect two wires between inputs and outputs to create your trip wires. You'll need at least 100 ohm resistors I'm series with the wire to limit current draw. Then in the program, you would initiate the pins, turn the output pins on, then continuously poll the input pins and record a timestamp when the input goes low. The Arduino should have a fast enough clock that your speed will be pretty accurate, especially if the polling is the only thing you do.
Link Posted: 4/28/2016 2:15:27 PM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:
You can likely achieve this with an Arduino accurately enough. You can set two pins as outputs and two as inputs. Connect two wires between inputs and outputs to create your trip wires. You'll need at least 100 ohm resistors I'm series with the wire to limit current draw. Then in the program, you would initiate the pins, turn the output pins on, then continuously poll the input pins and record a timestamp when the input goes low. The Arduino should have a fast enough clock that your speed will be pretty accurate, especially if the polling is the only thing you do.
View Quote


Unless the projectile is VERY slow and the measuring distance very large few computers can sample an input fast enough.
Link Posted: 4/28/2016 4:28:56 PM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:

Unless the projectile is VERY slow and the measuring distance very large few computers can sample an input fast enough.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
You can likely achieve this with an Arduino accurately enough. You can set two pins as outputs and two as inputs. Connect two wires between inputs and outputs to create your trip wires. You'll need at least 100 ohm resistors I'm series with the wire to limit current draw. Then in the program, you would initiate the pins, turn the output pins on, then continuously poll the input pins and record a timestamp when the input goes low. The Arduino should have a fast enough clock that your speed will be pretty accurate, especially if the polling is the only thing you do.

Unless the projectile is VERY slow and the measuring distance very large few computers can sample an input fast enough.

You won't be able to have you wire as close as a ballistic chronograph, but it is very doable, even with a "slow" Arduino.

An Arduino processor operates at 16MHz. If you placed the first wire 10 feet from the muzzle (to prevent the air from inside the barrel in front of the cannonball from affecting it), and the second wire at 20 feet from the muzzle, the Arduino should definitely be able to measure it.
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 11:23:00 AM EDT
[#8]
I appreciate the suggestions but I am pretty sure the recording device (computer sound card) will work for me.  I have a sacrificial laptop that I will use so I don't fry my good computer.  



What I need is something to replace the LEDs that will not be effected by the flame and smoke.  Here is an example of my cannon and the muzzle blast from a 3 ounce blank cartridge.  I will be experimenting with the, then standard, charges of 4, 5, 6, and 8 ounce cartridges to determine range, velocities at various ranges, and energy.  The cartridges use cannon grade powder.










I also think that if I replace the LEDs with a wire and a "something" to provide the correct input voltage and amperage that mimics the operation of the LEDs I will have what I need.




I read somewhere that when the British developed this gun they found it had a range of approximately 1700 yards at 3 degrees of elevation.  if that is correct, using the formula found on Ulrich Brestcher's webpage (http://www.musketeer.ch/blackpowder/proving_mortar.html) I found that the velocity should be about 1,275 ft/sec; the free software (coilchrono) available on the web at archerytalk.com should handle this.
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 12:52:13 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

You won't be able to have you wire as close as a ballistic chronograph, but it is very doable, even with a "slow" Arduino.

An Arduino processor operates at 16MHz. If you placed the first wire 10 feet from the muzzle (to prevent the air from inside the barrel in front of the cannonball from affecting it), and the second wire at 20 feet from the muzzle, the Arduino should definitely be able to measure it.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
You can likely achieve this with an Arduino accurately enough. You can set two pins as outputs and two as inputs. Connect two wires between inputs and outputs to create your trip wires. You'll need at least 100 ohm resistors I'm series with the wire to limit current draw. Then in the program, you would initiate the pins, turn the output pins on, then continuously poll the input pins and record a timestamp when the input goes low. The Arduino should have a fast enough clock that your speed will be pretty accurate, especially if the polling is the only thing you do.

Unless the projectile is VERY slow and the measuring distance very large few computers can sample an input fast enough.

You won't be able to have you wire as close as a ballistic chronograph, but it is very doable, even with a "slow" Arduino.

An Arduino processor operates at 16MHz. If you placed the first wire 10 feet from the muzzle (to prevent the air from inside the barrel in front of the cannonball from affecting it), and the second wire at 20 feet from the muzzle, the Arduino should definitely be able to measure it.


Processor speed is very much faster than software execution speed.
You are in a fantasy.

Even if it has a hardware timer you are going to need hardware access to fast signal pins to start and stop the timer.
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 12:53:29 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I appreciate the suggestions but I am pretty sure the recording device (computer sound card) will work for me.  I have a sacrificial laptop that I will use so I don't fry my good computer.  

What I need is something to replace the LEDs that will not be effected by the flame and smoke.  Here is an example of my cannon and the muzzle blast from a 3 ounce blank cartridge.  I will be experimenting with the, then standard, charges of 4, 5, 6, and 8 ounce cartridges to determine range, velocities at various ranges, and energy.  The cartridges use cannon grade powder.


http://i1071.photobucket.com/albums/u505/airforcemajor1/bigfireballMedium.jpg



I also think that if I replace the LEDs with a wire and a "something" to provide the correct input voltage and amperage that mimics the operation of the LEDs I will have what I need.


I read somewhere that when the British developed this gun they found it had a range of approximately 1700 yards at 3 degrees of elevation.  if that is correct, using the formula found on Ulrich Brestcher's webpage (http://www.musketeer.ch/blackpowder/proving_mortar.html) I found that the velocity should be about 1,275 ft/sec; the free software (coilchrono) available on the web at archerytalk.com should handle this.
View Quote


Any LEDs are used to illuminate a photo diode or photo transistor.
LEDs do not sense anything.
Link Posted: 4/29/2016 1:26:08 PM EDT
[#11]
See?  I do need help, I don't even know the correct terminology!
Link Posted: 4/30/2016 1:30:24 PM EDT
[#12]
When Oehler was the only game in town with optical sensor the units cost over $1,000 each.

I designed and built a compete ballistic chronograph.
Z80 processor to execute the math and a hardware timer chain to count a 10 MHz clock.

EEPROM memory came in 32 kbyte chips.
SRAM was 1k x 4 chips.
DRAM existed but was only 32k x 1 and needed a lot of hardware to maintain refresh.
The Z80 had limited DRAM support built in.

Photo-diodes to catch the shadow of the bullet across the sensor.
Making the half cylinder slightly curved lenses to focus the light onto the photo-diode was a nightmare and a half.



Link Posted: 4/30/2016 4:41:32 PM EDT
[#13]
If you need a small number of measurements, you could hook two cardboard discs up to a rotating axle.  If you know how fast the axle is rotating (rpm) and the distance between the cardboard discs, you can calculate the time between the two discs based on the difference in angle where the holes are and hence the velocity.

Look it up on google.
Link Posted: 5/1/2016 1:13:45 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
If you need a small number of measurements, you could hook two cardboard discs up to a rotating axle.  If you know how fast the axle is rotating (rpm) and the distance between the cardboard discs, you can calculate the time between the two discs based on the difference in angle where the holes are and hence the velocity.

Look it up on google.
View Quote


Wait till you try and use a camera of any type to record the image.
Link Posted: 5/11/2016 11:57:58 AM EDT
[#15]
You could make two loops of wires that acts as antennas of pickups, and generate a change in voltage/ frequency when a metal object passes through them.  Next step is being able to capture the two changes in voltage, then figure out time and distance from how they are placed.  Maybe the first field activates the timer, then the second field stops it?

I helped out someone two years ago bury a loop of wire encased in PVC pipe under their driveway, and that acted as a trigger when a large metal object crossed over it.  The detection circuitry was in the gate controller.
Link Posted: 5/11/2016 12:07:10 PM EDT
[#16]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
What I need is something to replace the LEDs that will not be effected by the flame and smoke.  Here is an example of my cannon and the muzzle blast from a 3 ounce blank cartridge.  I will be experimenting with the, then standard, charges of 4, 5, 6, and 8 ounce cartridges to determine range, velocities at various ranges, and energy.  The cartridges use cannon grade powder.
View Quote


Build the chronograph you have plans for and place it fifteen feet in front of the muzzle.  That's what's done with standard chronographs to prevent them from reading the muzzle blast.
Link Posted: 5/11/2016 2:45:40 PM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:


Wait till you try and use a camera of any type to record the image.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
If you need a small number of measurements, you could hook two cardboard discs up to a rotating axle.  If you know how fast the axle is rotating (rpm) and the distance between the cardboard discs, you can calculate the time between the two discs based on the difference in angle where the holes are and hence the velocity.

Look it up on google.


Wait till you try and use a camera of any type to record the image.



No, I mean you shoot a hole through the two discs and measure the angle difference between the holes.
Link Posted: 5/13/2016 6:33:45 AM EDT
[#18]
The wire would work fine. It can be tin foil too, anything conductive. You would be splicing a circuit onto a headphone jack and using the sound card to record the data. The old chronos did this, before optical ones.

Not sure of the circuit, it would likely be "parallel" loops, each having a different high resistance. In use, the signal would be level until the shot broke the first loop, which would cause a large change, and then a large change when the second loop was broken.Use 'Audacity' to measure the time differential between the spikes, then do the math.
Link Posted: 5/15/2016 8:00:51 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



No, I mean you shoot a hole through the two discs and measure the angle difference between the holes.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If you need a small number of measurements, you could hook two cardboard discs up to a rotating axle.  If you know how fast the axle is rotating (rpm) and the distance between the cardboard discs, you can calculate the time between the two discs based on the difference in angle where the holes are and hence the velocity.

Look it up on google.


Wait till you try and use a camera of any type to record the image.



No, I mean you shoot a hole through the two discs and measure the angle difference between the holes.


And you measure the RPM how?
Link Posted: 5/15/2016 8:02:12 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
The wire would work fine. It can be tin foil too, anything conductive. You would be splicing a circuit onto a headphone jack and using the sound card to record the data. The old chronos did this, before optical ones.

Not sure of the circuit, it would likely be "parallel" loops, each having a different high resistance. In use, the signal would be level until the shot broke the first loop, which would cause a large change, and then a large change when the second loop was broken.Use 'Audacity' to measure the time differential between the spikes, then do the math.
View Quote


Sound cards sample how fast?
And with what bandwidth?

Not interpolated reproduction numbers.
Hard samples.
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