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Posted: 6/29/2015 11:13:07 AM EDT
[#1]
If you're in San Antonio Southwest Nipple will thread whatever you bring to them.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 11:17:15 AM EDT
[#2]
Home Depot will do it for you. You'll need some fittings anyway.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 11:18:10 AM EDT
[#3]
I used to be a plumber, part of my misspent youth.
You're right, the cutter is an overgrown version of a copper tubing cutter. You'll need a vise to hold the pipe, we either had one bolted to the bumper of the truck or had one on a. Tripod. You'll also need a power threaded too. And the appropriate die, and lots of oil to keep it from galling and burning. You would be better off to make your measurements and get the pipe threaded by someone else. Otherwise you'll need to buy or rent this stuff. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 11:43:26 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Home Depot will do it for you. You'll need some fittings anyway. This. Measure it all out. Buy the pipe at home Depot or Lowes, they will thread it, usually free, to length. Pipe is expensive, but total package is a good deal. Ya gotta buy pipe and fittings someplace. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 12:25:32 PM EDT
[#5]
I had no idea Home Depot will do it, thanks I'll be sure to check it out. And yes, I'll need some elbows too.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 12:53:30 PM EDT
[#6]
the Home Depot is a good option. You could also go the Hazzard Freight option. Use lots of cutting fluid.
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Posted: 6/29/2015 1:36:33 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I had no idea Home Depot will do it, thanks I'll be sure to check it out. And yes, I'll need some elbows too. Yup, they sure will. Every HD I've been to has had the cutter and power threaded right in front of the racks of iron pipe. Just make sure to measure twice so you don't have to make a trip back. |
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Posted: 6/29/2015 1:40:01 PM EDT
[#8]
Why not just piece it together using the pre-threaded pipe sections and the various sized nipples? They sell pre-cut, pre-threaded nipples from close (0") to 12" in 1/2" increments and above 12" they sell pre-threaded pipe secions in 6" increments. Surely you can fit the space using those.
If you use tape on the threads, be sure to get the yellow, gas-rated stuff. Personally, I prefer the goopy, liquidous, thread sealant, especially for gas lines. Be 100% certain there are no leaks - use soapy water on every fitting. |
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Posted: 6/30/2015 9:53:50 AM EDT
[#9]
"You'll also need a power threaded too.
1/2 inch is easy enough to thread by hand. |
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Posted: 6/30/2015 10:13:54 AM EDT
[#10]
I had home depot cut and thread some pipe when I needed some. They did it for free and did a good job.
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Posted: 6/30/2015 10:28:14 AM EDT
[#11]
Or you could drop back to an existing thread and screw on a brass adapter, then run the pipe out of copper and just solder it.
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Posted: 6/30/2015 10:41:10 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Or you could drop back to an existing thread and screw on a brass adapter, then run the pipe out of copper and just solder it. The OP didn't mention if it was LP or natural. Opinion has changed over the years, google it then check code. |
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Posted: 6/30/2015 11:50:59 AM EDT
[#13]
This is a natural gas line. I'd definitely prefer pre-cut lengths if possible and I'll check what's available based on my measurements.
I have a follow-up question. I realized that once the work is finished the pipe could move around a bit if bumped a lot so I'd like to strap it down to the wood studs in the attic to prevent this. I was thinking just wrapping the metal plumbers tape stuff and the screw it into the studs. Might be too redneck though...any suggestions on what to use for this? |
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Posted: 6/30/2015 12:00:13 PM EDT
[#14]
Either band iron, conduit straps, or stand-off brackets.
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Posted: 6/30/2015 4:59:48 PM EDT
[#15]
NG lines must be brazed.
In a fire solder can easily fail. A buddy had lines threaded at HD and every one was over-cut and bottomed out before coming up tight. |
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Posted: 6/30/2015 8:17:07 PM EDT
[#16]
Maybe check the threading before you leave? You should be able to hand thread on a fitting about three turns.
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Posted: 6/30/2015 9:56:28 PM EDT
[#17]
The local Ace hardware cuts and threads pipe for me.
If you are buying 10' sticks and cutting yourself, just use a hacksaw. Otherwise go in with the measurements you need. |
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Posted: 6/30/2015 11:12:21 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
NG lines must be brazed. BS In a fire solder can easily fail. no solder to fail A buddy had lines threaded at HD and every one was over-cut and bottomed out before coming up tight. That I can believe, they are not really in the field. I've clock tested and drop tested houses that were torched, if they fail its usually at an appliance not the house line. OP, forget threading pipe, just buy the lengths yiu need (already threaded from a factory, not some guy at HD |
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Posted: 7/1/2015 6:35:24 AM EDT
[#19]
Don't use teflon tape on the fittings, only dope.
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Posted: 7/1/2015 1:36:36 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't use teflon tape on the fittings, only dope. They sell a tape for thread sealing on natural gas lines. It is yellow in color, as is the plastic package. It isn't as slick or smooth as the white plumbing sealant. |
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Posted: 7/2/2015 6:39:59 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They sell a tape for thread sealing on natural gas lines. It is yellow in color, as is the plastic package. It isn't as slick or smooth as the white plumbing sealant. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Don't use teflon tape on the fittings, only dope. They sell a tape for thread sealing on natural gas lines. It is yellow in color, as is the plastic package. It isn't as slick or smooth as the white plumbing sealant. But too many people don't know that and wind up using cheap teflon tape. Hell, use some Permatex on it and you'll never have to worry about leaks! 
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Posted: 7/3/2015 3:15:54 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That I can believe, they are not really in the field. I've clock tested and drop tested houses that were torched, if they fail its usually at an appliance not the house line. OP, forget threading pipe, just buy the lengths yiu need (already threaded from a factory, not some guy at HD Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
NG lines must be brazed. BS In a fire solder can easily fail. no solder to fail A buddy had lines threaded at HD and every one was over-cut and bottomed out before coming up tight. That I can believe, they are not really in the field. I've clock tested and drop tested houses that were torched, if they fail its usually at an appliance not the house line. OP, forget threading pipe, just buy the lengths yiu need (already threaded from a factory, not some guy at HD Copper sweat fitting for NG require brazing and have for many many years. For NG there is also an old requirement hanging around about the supplier certifying low sulfur content to use copper. Almost everyone meets the rule. Flared fittings ('mechanical joints') are also acceptable but a PITA to make in larger sizes. Threaded steel is often the lowest cost option, unless you are doing a lot of old work in an older structure then CSST is a great option. Make sure the electrical grounding is up to the most recent code. There have been issues with CSST and lightning strikes. |
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