Coke Machine Refurbishment [It's done! But...]

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Posted: 4/28/2015 8:49:13 PM EDT

We got an old Cavalier Coke machine out of a print shop that was closing. It's originally from the 1970s 1960s, but was upgraded sometime in the '80s. There's quite a bit of rust...

Don't worry, the fake wood vinyl stickers are already in the trash.

The coin and dispensing mechanisms both work. The lights didn't come on, but I suspect the ballast, starter, or fluorescent tubes are bad. All of the wiring appears to follow the wiring diagram.

It cools well, and given its age is probably a Freon system. We don't want to change out the refrigeration system, but that limits how far we can really take the restoration.

The curved drink holders inside show progressively more rust as you go down.

The glass in the small door collected condensation and dripped onto the door sill below.
So, several questions:
1. The paint is pretty rough all over. We want to repaint it. Would an airbrush be appropriate? What kind of paint? Should we plan to sand it to rough the surface, or strip all the existing paint?
2. How should we deal with the rust on the bare metal inside, especially the curved drink holders in the picture? Could we bead blast it and then clear coat with something? We've thought about just hitting it with krylon to cover it and seal the surface.
3. The huge rust holes in the last picture..... Knock it all out, and then.... Leave it and use Bondo? I'm at a loss for how to handle this.
4. We removed the backside of the main door and took out the original insulation. What kind should we replace it with? Would normal home insulation be okay?
5. Any advice on masking off the stickers when we paint so we can keep them? The big decal on the outside is going, but the stickers inside we'd like to keep.
6. Suggest paint colors. We're not married to this staying a Coke machine. We're not fanatical enough about Fallout to make it a Nukacola machine either. A small part of me wants to make it a Dr Pepper machine, but not too badly. None of the metal is stamped with Coke logos, and the backlit Coke logo on the front is the only thing we'd have to modify.

Posted: 4/28/2015 11:17:16 PM EDT

[#1]

Quoted:
We got an old Cavalier Coke machine out of a print shop that was closing. It's originally from the 1970s, but was upgraded sometime in the '80s. There's quite a bit of rust...

So, several questions:

1. The paint is pretty rough all over. We want to repaint it. Would an airbrush be appropriate? What kind of paint? Should we plan to sand it to rough the surface, or strip all the existing paint?

2. How should we deal with the rust on the bare metal inside, especially the curved drink holders in the picture? Could we bead blast it and then clear coat with something? We've thought about just hitting it with krylon to cover it and seal the surface.

3. The huge rust holes in the last picture..... Knock it all out, and then.... Leave it and use Bondo? I'm at a loss for how to handle this.

4. We removed the backside of the main door and took out the original insulation. What kind should we replace it with? Would normal home insulation be okay?

5. Any advice on masking off the stickers when we paint so we can keep them? The big decal on the outside is going, but the stickers inside we'd like to keep.

6. Suggest paint colors. We're not married to this staying a Coke machine. We're not fanatical enough about Fallout to make it a Nukacola machine either. A small part of me wants to make it a Dr Pepper machine, but not too badly. None of the metal is stamped with Coke logos, and the backlit Coke logo on the front is the only thing we'd have to modify.

View Quote

1. An airbrush won't work. Go to Harbor Freight and get one of their HVLP guns. I'd go ahead and strip to bare metal, prime and paint.
2. Krylon won't seal anything. I'd pull the mech and bead blast the rust. The curved parts probably need to be blasted too. I'm not sure how you get that galvanized finish.
3. You need to cut it out and weld in new metal.
4. Home insulation is probably not dense enough.
5. You'll be better off just getting new stickers.
6. A single stage urethane in sunburst yellow would work for me.

I'd probably replace the rubber seal too that is preventing a good seal. You shouldn't be getting condensation.
Of course you need to add a large BFL to the front.

Posted: 4/29/2015 7:34:49 PM EDT

[#2]

Quote History

Quoted:

1. An airbrush won't work. Go to Harbor Freight and get one of their HVLP guns. I'd go ahead and strip to bare metal, prime and paint.

2. Krylon won't seal anything. I'd pull the mech and bead blast the rust. The curved parts probably need to be blasted too. I'm not sure how you get that galvanized finish.

3. You need to cut it out and weld in new metal.

4. Home insulation is probably not dense enough.

5. You'll be better off just getting new stickers.

6. A single stage urethane in sunburst yellow would work for me.

I'd probably replace the rubber seal too that is preventing a good seal. You shouldn't be getting condensation.

Of course you need to add a large BFL to the front.

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:

We got an old Cavalier Coke machine out of a print shop that was closing. It's originally from the 1970s, but was upgraded sometime in the '80s. There's quite a bit of rust...

So, several questions:

1. The paint is pretty rough all over. We want to repaint it. Would an airbrush be appropriate? What kind of paint? Should we plan to sand it to rough the surface, or strip all the existing paint?

2. How should we deal with the rust on the bare metal inside, especially the curved drink holders in the picture? Could we bead blast it and then clear coat with something? We've thought about just hitting it with krylon to cover it and seal the surface.

3. The huge rust holes in the last picture..... Knock it all out, and then.... Leave it and use Bondo? I'm at a loss for how to handle this.

4. We removed the backside of the main door and took out the original insulation. What kind should we replace it with? Would normal home insulation be okay?

5. Any advice on masking off the stickers when we paint so we can keep them? The big decal on the outside is going, but the stickers inside we'd like to keep.

6. Suggest paint colors. We're not married to this staying a Coke machine. We're not fanatical enough about Fallout to make it a Nukacola machine either. A small part of me wants to make it a Dr Pepper machine, but not too badly. None of the metal is stamped with Coke logos, and the backlit Coke logo on the front is the only thing we'd have to modify.

1. An airbrush won't work. Go to Harbor Freight and get one of their HVLP guns. I'd go ahead and strip to bare metal, prime and paint.

2. Krylon won't seal anything. I'd pull the mech and bead blast the rust. The curved parts probably need to be blasted too. I'm not sure how you get that galvanized finish.

3. You need to cut it out and weld in new metal.

4. Home insulation is probably not dense enough.

5. You'll be better off just getting new stickers.

6. A single stage urethane in sunburst yellow would work for me.

I'd probably replace the rubber seal too that is preventing a good seal. You shouldn't be getting condensation.

Of course you need to add a large BFL to the front.

2. Krylon won't seal anything. I'd pull the mech and bead blast the
rust. The curved parts probably need to be blasted too. I'm not sure how
you get that galvanized finish.

I'm not opposed to covering the galvanized finish. I saw some pictures of people's completely refinished machines, and some had really nice chromed interiors. I don't think I want to do that much though..,

4. Home insulation is probably not dense enough.

So, suggestions on what to use instead?

5. You'll be better off just getting new stickers.

I don't mean the Coke logo decals on the outside, I mean the original diagrams, repair history, etc.

On the seal, which one are you referring to? I scrubbed all of them, and they all seem to be in good, rubbery, condition. Only one had a hole in it (which I unfortunately put there

)

Posted: 4/30/2015 11:02:42 AM EDT

[#3]

4. Home insulation is probably not dense enough.
So, suggestions on what to use instead?
>Is it there for sound or insulation? If sound, and you don't need it to look original, I'd use some of the products used for sound dampening in cars. Otherwise, I'd look into something like the insulation used to wrap HVAC ducts. The problem I have with fiberglass, is it traps moisture.

5. You'll be better off just getting new stickers.
I don't mean the Coke logo decals on the outside, I mean the original diagrams, repair history, etc.
>I was thinking of the little product logos on the mech. You'll never do a good job taping off the orig. diagrams, repair history and make it look nice. I'd remove them and replace them with re-creations.

On the seal, which one are you referring to? I scrubbed all of them, and they all seem to be in good, rubbery, condition. Only one had a hole in it (which I unfortunately put there

)
>I thinking of the door seal. If it's good, then — okay. I'm worried about the condensation and why it's happening.

Posted: 4/30/2015 6:00:11 PM EDT

[#4]

Quote History

Quoted:

4. Home insulation is probably not dense enough.

So, suggestions on what to use instead?

>Is it there for sound or insulation? If sound, and you don't need it to look original, I'd use some of the products used for sound dampening in cars. Otherwise, I'd look into something like the insulation used to wrap HVAC ducts. The problem I have with fiberglass, is it traps moisture.
5. You'll be better off just getting new stickers.

I don't mean the Coke logo decals on the outside, I mean the original diagrams, repair history, etc.

>I was thinking of the little product logos on the mech. You'll never do a good job taping off the orig. diagrams, repair history and make it look nice. I'd remove them and replace them with re-creations.
On the seal, which one are you referring to? I scrubbed all of them, and they all seem to be in good, rubbery, condition. Only one had a hole in it (which I unfortunately put there

)

>I thinking of the door seal. If it's good, then — okay. I'm worried about the condensation and why it's happening.

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It's for the cold. I didn't think about HVAC ducts, I'll have to look at them.
I *think* the condensation is due to 2 problems: the spring on the top hinge on the bottle door is broken, so I don't think it's making a good seal on the top corner. Problem 2 is that the glass in the door is cracked in a bunch of places. I think the combination is what was allowing airflow and causing the condensation. I have the number for a family friend who owns a glass company, but I haven't spoken to him yet about replacing the glass.
We bought a paint sprayer last night. I think we're in for a bunch of work this weekend.

Posted: 5/2/2015 11:52:43 AM EDT

[#5]

I would just craigslist it and look for a Vendo56 . The 56 is neat due to will vend cans and bottles. They have the same glass door style with a lift lever to eject the bottle some. Big thing is the "S" cams , do not know of any one who makes repo's of them. The wood grain I do believe is the original style. A lot of those style had it, was some 70's thing like wood panels in houses.

The most desirable vending machines are the tombstone style. The smaller the better, Big venders take up a lot of space in the room.

But either way, its cool to restore and use in the man cave/garage.

Snert

PS. Rust removal, WD40 has a solution you can submerge the parts in to remove rust. It should not strip the finish or paint, just the rust if I recall correctly.

Posted: 5/3/2015 10:19:41 AM EDT

[#6]

Update:

We've taken it almost all the way apart now. Today's agenda is to remove the refrigeration system and the interior walls of the cold box. We weren't originally planning on stripping that part out, but when we got the tower out, we found rusted holes in the bottom, and the insulation is packed flat from all the drips.

Posted: 5/9/2015 5:33:21 PM EDT

[#7]

Update:

We have it almost all the way taken apart.

Pulled the refrigeration system out, and pulled the icebox out of the frame. Turns out the icebox needs a new base...I'm surprised the refrigeration box didn't just drop through since the rusted-out hole is so large. We still need to pull out the old insulation, but it's been too rainy to go outside and work on it.

Main door is removed. The wires are actually out of the door now, but I forgot to take a picture of that.

All of the other doors and the parts that were stuck on the doors have been disassembled into baggies and (lol) carefully labeled.

We managed to get the stickers that I wanted to keep off with some patience and a brand new utility knife blade.
Question:

Where might I buy new hinges? The one I'm holding is broken...

Posted: 5/9/2015 8:11:46 PM EDT

[#8]

What is broken on the hinge? Is it the internal rod? If so, I would hammer it out and put a brass rod in to its spot.

If it needs replaced, will it be able to be seen? A replacement piano hinge may do the trick.

Posted: 5/10/2015 10:35:41 AM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

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What is broken on the hinge? Is it the internal rod? If so, I would hammer it out and put a brass rod in to its spot.

If it needs replaced, will it be able to be seen? A replacement piano hinge may do the trick.

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It has a couple of problems: it's bent, and the spring is broken. I found replacement springs online, but not hinges. I'll try hammering it and see if that is enough with a new spring.

Posted: 5/10/2015 10:42:47 AM EDT

[#10]

My husband put on a respirator last night and pulled out all of the old insulation. We found one more small rusted hole underneath the insulation.

Posted: 5/10/2015 11:52:06 AM EDT

[#11]

TAG

Posted: 5/10/2015 1:26:27 PM EDT

[#12]

Also a tag. And a

for making me feel so lazy, since you are doing a TON of work. I have a few projects of my own that have been on the back burner now for a while, and none of them are going to involve half the work you have put into your machine already. It should look amazing when you get it done!

Posted: 5/10/2015 3:32:40 PM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:

Also a tag. And a

for making me feel so lazy, since you are doing a TON of work. I have a few projects of my own that have been on the back burner now for a while, and none of them are going to involve half the work you have put into your machine already. It should look amazing when you get it done!

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I sure hope so. The amount of work required seems to just keep increasing. It was supposed to be a quick project.

Posted: 5/10/2015 3:51:01 PM EDT

[#14]

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I sure hope so. The amount of work required seems to just keep increasing. It was supposed to be a quick project. [img]http://www.ar15.com/images/smilies/smiley_abused.gif[/

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Quoted:

Quoted:
Also a tag. And a

for making me feel so lazy, since you are doing a TON of work. I have a few projects of my own that have been on the back burner now for a while, and none of them are going to involve half the work you have put into your machine already. It should look amazing when you get it done!

I sure hope so. The amount of work required seems to just keep increasing. It was supposed to be a quick project. [img]http://www.ar15.com/images/smilies/smiley_abused.gif[/

Lol it's called project creep! Good luck as I have nothing for this. Sorry.

Posted: 5/10/2015 11:48:19 PM EDT

[#15]

Google "rust converter spray paint."

Posted: 5/13/2015 6:32:09 AM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:

PS. Rust removal, WD40 has a solution you can submerge the parts in to remove rust. It should not strip the finish or paint, just the rust if I recall correctly.

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This stuff works great. We've been going through all the parts that will fit in a bucket and soaking them overnight. Very little effort needed. Thanks for the suggestion!

Posted: 5/13/2015 10:24:24 AM EDT

[#17]

Quote History

Quoted:

This stuff works great. We've been going through all the parts that will fit in a bucket and soaking them overnight. Very little effort needed. Thanks for the suggestion!

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:

PS. Rust removal, WD40 has a solution you can submerge the parts in to remove rust. It should not strip the finish or paint, just the rust if I recall correctly.

This stuff works great. We've been going through all the parts that will fit in a bucket and soaking them overnight. Very little effort needed. Thanks for the suggestion!

<Zhukov space>
There is another product called "Evapo Rust" available from Harbor Freight that has good reviews also.

Posted: 5/13/2015 10:28:03 AM EDT

[#18]

Tag

Seems like a really cool project!

Posted: 5/17/2015 12:00:52 PM EDT

[#19]

I don't have any good pics, because we've been working on the rust this week. Just about everything has soaked in the rust remover and subsequently been scrubbed. We bought a big washing machine water catch pan to soak the bottom of the freezer box in. That's going to happen today.

We decided to use fiberglass as the repair solution for the rusted out freezer box. Those supplies should be delivered later this week, so maybe we'll get that done next weekend.

Slogging along...

Posted: 5/17/2015 9:10:43 PM EDT

[#20]

Before and after scrubbing out the cabinet:

Rust removed from the drink dispensers. There is a photo previously posted of how corroded those were to start with.

These are the adjustable feet:

What can we put on the bottom of these to keep from scratching our wood floors? I'm thinking about just getting the machine in place, and then tipping it up and putting a piece of felt under each foot.
This is an older picture, but shows the refrigerated box (silver on the left). Its bottom is rusted pretty badly. We were able to clean it down to metal in some spots and ordered some fiberglass to repair it with.

Posted: 5/18/2015 11:07:44 AM EDT

[#21]

Looking good! They make adhesive felt circles designed to go on feet like those to protect floors. Hardware stores generally carry them.

Posted: 5/18/2015 9:54:29 PM EDT

[#22]

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Looking good! They make adhesive felt circles designed to go on feet like those to protect floors. Hardware stores generally carry them.

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I have a set of them for the dining room chairs, and I've been pretty unimpressed. The self-stick adhesive they come with is worthless, and they peeled off within a month. I hot-glued them back on about 2 months ago, and the heavy-use chairs are already falling off again.

I really like how nice the felt pads make the chairs move on the floor, but I need a better way to attach them...

Posted: 5/18/2015 10:31:28 PM EDT

[#23]

How often are you planning on moving it...?

ETA: Figure out a way to attach these?

Nail on furniture glides

Posted: 5/19/2015 1:06:00 AM EDT

[#24]

When you go to insulate it could you not use some kind of styrofoam?

Posted: 5/19/2015 7:34:56 PM EDT

[#25]

Quote History

Quoted:

When you go to insulate it could you not use some kind of styrofoam?

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Truthfully, we haven't figured that out yet. Pros/cons/other thoughts?

Posted: 5/19/2015 7:36:23 PM EDT

[#26]

Quote History

Quoted:

How often are you planning on moving it...?

ETA: Figure out a way to attach these?

Nail on furniture glides

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I don't know how often we'd move it, but I don't want it re-rusting and leaving spots on the floor.

The feet are solid metal, so I don't know how we could attach those.

Posted: 5/19/2015 8:32:14 PM EDT

[#27]

Cut off the nail and epoxy it on?

Posted: 5/20/2015 1:38:12 PM EDT

[#28]

Quote History

Quoted:

Truthfully, we haven't figured that out yet. Pros/cons/other thoughts?

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Quoted:

Quoted:
When you go to insulate it could you not use some kind of styrofoam?

Truthfully, we haven't figured that out yet. Pros/cons/other thoughts?

Pros:
Does not absorb moisture
Lightweight, durable, easy to use and trim
Meets and exceeds all type IV and type X specifications
Retains insulating properties over time
Maintains integrity

Cons: Seems kindy pricey, but you wont need much.

I would use this over standard insulation.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_304090-210-304090.0_1z11pq2__?productId=3122447&pl=1

Wheels and moving:

Personally I would put some kind of hard rubber wheels on it.

Posted: 5/30/2015 9:22:58 AM EDT

[#29]

Quote History

Quoted:
Pros:

Does not absorb moisture

Lightweight, durable, easy to use and trim

Meets and exceeds all type IV and type X specifications

Retains insulating properties over time

Maintains integrity

Cons: Seems kindy pricey, but you wont need much.

I would use this over standard insulation.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_304090-210-304090.0_1z11pq2__?productId=3122447&pl=1
Wheels and moving:

Personally I would put some kind of hard rubber wheels on it.

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Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:

When you go to insulate it could you not use some kind of styrofoam?

Truthfully, we haven't figured that out yet. Pros/cons/other thoughts?

Pros:

Does not absorb moisture

Lightweight, durable, easy to use and trim

Meets and exceeds all type IV and type X specifications

Retains insulating properties over time

Maintains integrity

Cons: Seems kindy pricey, but you wont need much.

I would use this over standard insulation.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_304090-210-304090.0_1z11pq2__?productId=3122447&pl=1
Wheels and moving:

Personally I would put some kind of hard rubber wheels on it.

We really like the idea of the styrofoam, much much easier to use than standard insulation.

No real updates - this is the end of the school year and I've been at school late every night for the last week, and my husband has been out of town for work.

We are going to try to work on the fiberglass repair over the rust this weekend, but if it stops raining we have a major water-damage-issue to try to repair.

Posted: 5/31/2015 5:36:17 PM EDT

[#30]

We applied a first layer of fiberglass over the rusted out bottom of the cold box. We learned a couple of important lessons, the main one being that ventilation needs to be more than a little fan with the garage door open. WOW the resin was fumy!

I'll take a picture and post it later, when I can go out in the garage without fainting.

Posted: 6/4/2015 4:17:16 PM EDT

[#31]

Now this looks like a cool project

Posted: 6/5/2015 8:56:54 PM EDT

[#32]

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Quoted:

Now this looks like a cool project

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Hopefully we'll get some work done on it this weekend. The last few weeks have been full of too much work.

Posted: 6/7/2015 2:09:55 PM EDT

[#33]

Yesterday we put the fiberglass across the bottom of the cold box. We did a layer inside the box last weekend, but I didn't get a picture of it. The odd white spot is the fiberglass mesh covering the hole in the box. The rest of the box still had some metal (with a bunch of rust and small holes).

Today's plan is to put one more layer of fiberglass mat inside the box inside the hole and a little ways up the inside walls of the box. Hopefully that should be the enough.

Posted: 6/9/2015 11:00:16 AM EDT

[#34]

Are you doing the fiberglass mat for insulation, or to patch the hole?

I am unfamiliar with the layout of this machine (temperate zones / cold zones / zones that get condensation), but a fiberglass mat that is not sealed all the way around seems to be BEGGING to get moisture between it and onto the steel.

If this is to patch a rust hole, I am going to say this is a bad idea. A little steel work and a good epoxy paint is probably a better idea. If this is a rusted place that has condensation sitting on it, an even better idea would be to dimple the pan, reweld the pan to fix the rust holes, and install a nipple at the low spot that would route through a hose any condensation run to a drip pan.

Posted: 6/9/2015 6:52:54 PM EDT

[#35]

Quote History

Quoted:

Are you doing the fiberglass mat for insulation, or to patch the hole?

I am unfamiliar with the layout of this machine (temperate zones / cold zones / zones that get condensation), but a fiberglass mat that is not sealed all the way around seems to be BEGGING to get moisture between it and onto the steel.

If this is to patch a rust hole, I am going to say this is a bad idea. A little steel work and a good epoxy paint is probably a better idea. If this is a rusted place that has condensation sitting on it, an even better idea would be to dimple the pan, reweld the pan to fix the rust holes, and install a nipple at the low spot that would route through a hose any condensation run to a drip pan.

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It's built up like a bathtub on the inside and out. We applied fiberglass and resin at least 1 inch up on all sides.

In regards to the condensation and the low spot, there is a drain at the low spot that is intended to funnel any condensation out and into a drip catch pan. When we disassembled it, the drain tube was completely clogged.

Posted: 6/10/2015 2:54:42 AM EDT

[#36]

ost

i love those old style machines

Posted: 6/14/2015 8:48:42 AM EDT

[#37]

This week's update is kind of boring.

We took all of the painted parts to a local paint shop to have them blasted down to bare metal. We're going to paint it ourselves.

Nothing to see until the parts are done...

Posted: 6/30/2015 6:10:59 PM EDT

[#38]

Two and a half weeks later, it's back! It looks so strange being just bare metal...

Now for priming and paint!

Posted: 6/30/2015 10:05:45 PM EDT

[#39]

Looks good so far.
So what's the color scheme? Original with woodgrain?
Are you using epoxy primer or self-etching?

Posted: 7/1/2015 8:50:23 AM EDT

[#40]

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Looks good so far.

So what's the color scheme? Original with woodgrain?

Are you using epoxy primer or self-etching?

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I'm buying primer today. I don't know what either of these 2 things are?

Color scheme is red/white, with black trim. No more woodgrain. We're not currently planning on any decals, but that's not really been settled once and for all.

Posted: 7/2/2015 11:19:29 AM EDT

[#41]

Put the wood grain back on. Its the right thing to do

Posted: 7/2/2015 11:32:39 AM EDT

[#42]

I have a Cav120 in storage at my parents place. It only takes bottles, and my plan was to use it for beer. Then my wife went from "casual drinker" to "Go to a treatment program and don't come back until you are sober." But we're divorced now, so it's time to bring it back I think.

The following is a cut and paste of the links I collected when I was starting my restore. I have no idea if they are still any good, but it might provide a start.

Soda Machine
http://www.kovels.com/
http://usedvending.com/vintagevending.htm
http://www.costumecostumecostume.com/CokeMachines.htm
http://www.thesodafountain.com/
http://sassman.net/board//index.html
http://www.gameroomwarehouse.com/index.html
http://soda-machines.com/
http://www.vintagevending.com/index.tmpl?cart=306000490413063

Posted: 7/2/2015 7:15:58 PM EDT

[#43]

Quote History

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Put the wood grain back on. Its the right thing to do

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No way!

We determined that I'm unable to use the paint spray gun, due to being darn near blind without my glasses and lacking a respirator that will form a seal over glasses. Harumph. My husband painted a coat of primer on it when he got home from work today. I'll take a picture tomorrow once the fumes in the garage have cleared out.

Posted: 7/2/2015 7:16:35 PM EDT

[#44]

Quote History

Quoted:

I have a Cav120 in storage at my parents place. It only takes bottles, and my plan was to use it for beer. Then my wife went from "casual drinker" to "Go to a treatment program and don't come back until you are sober." But we're divorced now, so it's time to bring it back I think.

The following is a cut and paste of the links I collected when I was starting my restore. I have no idea if they are still any good, but it might provide a start.

Soda Machine

http://www.kovels.com/

http://usedvending.com/vintagevending.htm

http://www.costumecostumecostume.com/CokeMachines.htm

http://www.thesodafountain.com/

http://sassman.net/board//index.html

http://www.gameroomwarehouse.com/index.html

http://soda-machines.com/

http://www.vintagevending.com/index.tmpl?cart=306000490413063

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Thanks for the links. I'm kind of dreading the part where we try to put it back together...

Posted: 7/2/2015 8:23:05 PM EDT

[#45]

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Thanks for the links. I'm kind of dreading the part where we try to put it back together...

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I have a Cav120 in storage at my parents place. It only takes bottles, and my plan was to use it for beer. Then my wife went from "casual drinker" to "Go to a treatment program and don't come back until you are sober." But we're divorced now, so it's time to bring it back I think.

The following is a cut and paste of the links I collected when I was starting my restore. I have no idea if they are still any good, but it might provide a start.

Soda Machine
http://www.kovels.com/
http://usedvending.com/vintagevending.htm
http://www.costumecostumecostume.com/CokeMachines.htm
http://www.thesodafountain.com/
http://sassman.net/board//index.html
http://www.gameroomwarehouse.com/index.html
http://soda-machines.com/
http://www.vintagevending.com/index.tmpl?cart=306000490413063

Thanks for the links. I'm kind of dreading the part where we try to put it back together...

Pretty sure manuals, or at least exploded parts diagrams, are available.

I'll try to find a catalog I had a while ago. the guy wasn't online at the time, but apparently he bought out a LOT of the Cavalier spare parts supply when the family hung it up.

Posted: 7/2/2015 11:40:36 PM EDT

[#46]

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No way!

We determined that I'm unable to use the paint spray gun, due to being darn near blind without my glasses and lacking a respirator that will form a seal over glasses. Harumph. My husband painted a coat of primer on it when he got home from work today. I'll take a picture tomorrow once the fumes in the garage have cleared out.

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Put the wood grain back on. Its the right thing to do

No way!

We determined that I'm unable to use the paint spray gun, due to being darn near blind without my glasses and lacking a respirator that will form a seal over glasses. Harumph. My husband painted a coat of primer on it when he got home from work today. I'll take a picture tomorrow once the fumes in the garage have cleared out.

So keeping it original is out the window I guess

Posted: 7/3/2015 10:12:03 AM EDT

[#47]

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I'm kind of dreading the part where we try to put it back together...

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FWIW, it's been fun watching the progress even though it took a lot of sweat on your part. You'll get there

Enjoy your 4th..

Posted: 7/3/2015 1:57:21 PM EDT

[#48]

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So keeping it original is out the window I guess

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Quoted:

Put the wood grain back on. Its the right thing to do

No way!

We determined that I'm unable to use the paint spray gun, due to being darn near blind without my glasses and lacking a respirator that will form a seal over glasses. Harumph. My husband painted a coat of primer on it when he got home from work today. I'll take a picture tomorrow once the fumes in the garage have cleared out.

So keeping it original is out the window I guess

The woodgrain sticker wasn't the original, and it was in really bad shape anyways. Even if we wanted to restore it to original, we would have had to buy a new sticker. And it will look like a sticker.

Primer coat #2 is done. I swear I'm going to take a picture today once the fumes air out again.