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Posted: 3/15/2015 8:38:01 PM EDT
[#1]
seems like you hit the limit of the pressure valve ... you might need to flush it out more often.
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Posted: 3/15/2015 8:44:14 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
seems like you hit the limit of the pressure valve ... you might need to flush it out more often. That's what I suspected. I'm gonna keep an eye on it. |
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Posted: 3/15/2015 10:08:14 PM EDT
[#3]
They sell new pressure relief valves. They have different sizes so it might be best to remove the old one and take it with you to get the new one
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Posted: 3/16/2015 12:00:01 AM EDT
[#4]
I doubt the T&P went off due to temp. They dump at 210* and 150psi.
More likely was thermal expansion, and a weakened spring. When a T&P dumps from over-temp, it DUMPS, a large volume of water until it has cooled down, whereas, when it relieves an overpressure (like that caused by thermal expansion) it will piss out water, until the overpressure is relieved, maybe around a qt. or so. When the spring weakens enough it will seep water constantly. |
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Posted: 3/16/2015 12:15:17 AM EDT
[#5]
Thanks for the explanation.
I'm going to stop by Home Depot and pick up a new T&P. I've already been pricing out new HWHs. The Rheem Platinum seems to be getting decent reviews. Ours is pushing 15 years, so I'm trying to be preemptive. |
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Posted: 3/16/2015 7:14:23 AM EDT
[#6]
This morning I went down the basement and there is a puddle under the HWH.
At this point I'm thinking its a tank leak. I put a bucket under the pressure relief pipe and drain valve. Both are dry. 
I checked the tank and its older than I thought. It appears it was installed in 1998... 17 years seems to be living on borrowed time. |
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Posted: 3/16/2015 7:45:43 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
17 years seems to be living on borrowed time. Yes, replace the tank. |
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Posted: 3/16/2015 8:46:28 AM EDT
[#8]
Any suggestions on brand?
Whirlpool at Lowes and Rheem at HD both are around same price/performance/warranty. I'm waiting for everyone to get showered, then I'll start removing the old one. I plan on going up to a 50gallon tank, replacing the shutoff valve with a ball valve, using flexible braided lines, and replacing the expansion tank as well. |
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Posted: 3/16/2015 12:23:33 PM EDT
[#9]
using flexible braided lines OK for electric, not for gas. The flue ion gas overheats them in short order. Gas uses solid copper corrugated flex lines. |
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Posted: 3/16/2015 12:24:11 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Any suggestions on brand? Whirlpool at Lowes and Rheem at HD both are around same price/performance/warranty. I'm waiting for everyone to get showered, then I'll start removing the old one. I plan on going up to a 50gallon tank, replacing the shutoff valve with a ball valve, using flexible braided lines, and replacing the expansion tank as well. I would use Rheem over Whirlpool. I installed a Whirlpool electric water heater at my step daughter's house and I went through 2 of them. I couldn't get the nipples to completely seal. I believe that the tanks were defective. I returned both to Lowes and ended up getting one from Home Depot. The one from HD worked properly the first time. |
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Posted: 3/16/2015 12:37:13 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK for electric, not for gas. The flue ion gas overheats them in short order. Gas uses solid copper corrugated flex lines. Quote HistoryQuoted:
using flexible braided lines OK for electric, not for gas. The flue ion gas overheats them in short order. Gas uses solid copper corrugated flex lines. Hmm ok So something like this wouldn't work? Gas HWH install kit |
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Posted: 3/16/2015 11:51:29 PM EDT
[#12]
I would also go with the Rheem over the Whirlpool (made by American Water Heaters)
I don't use those kits, but have seen them installed with no problems. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 12:06:37 AM EDT
[#13]
I got the Rheem. My old one while marked GE was also Rheem and lasted 17 years.
I got all the gas lines hooked up, got the ball valve in place, vent, and lines ready to go. Turn on cold water and I missed about 1/32" of solder when I sweat the supply side of the ball valve.
Of course all this happened after Home Depot had closed for the night. I tried resweating the fitting but no luck. We are currently without any water until 6am.
Oh well, live and learn. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 12:10:42 AM EDT
[#14]
You have an expansion tank on your water heater, correct? Recently ran into a home that did not and they wondered why their overpressure valve was dripping all the time.
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Posted: 3/17/2015 8:27:33 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You have an expansion tank on your water heater, correct? Recently ran into a home that did not and they wondered why their overpressure valve was dripping all the time. Yup. It failed at some point in the past 17 years. Now that I understand how they work and routine maintenance, that shouldn't happen again. Replaced it with a new amtrol ST-5 |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 10:24:53 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
using flexible braided lines OK for electric, not for gas. The flue ion gas overheats them in short order. Gas uses solid copper corrugated flex lines. Hmm ok So something like this wouldn't work? Gas HWH install kit Just a stupid idea. The flue is very likely to cook the hell out of those hoses unless they are kept well away. Selling products with inappropriate applications is not illegal. You want solid copper formable lines. Either type L untempered (soft) tube or the 'corrugated' lines that are designed to be hand formed for small offsets. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 1:44:45 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would use Rheem over Whirlpool. I installed a Whirlpool electric water heater at my step daughter's house and I went through 2 of them. I couldn't get the nipples to completely seal. I believe that the tanks were defective. I returned both to Lowes and ended up getting one from Home Depot. The one from HD worked properly the first time. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Any suggestions on brand? Whirlpool at Lowes and Rheem at HD both are around same price/performance/warranty. I'm waiting for everyone to get showered, then I'll start removing the old one. I plan on going up to a 50gallon tank, replacing the shutoff valve with a ball valve, using flexible braided lines, and replacing the expansion tank as well. I would use Rheem over Whirlpool. I installed a Whirlpool electric water heater at my step daughter's house and I went through 2 of them. I couldn't get the nipples to completely seal. I believe that the tanks were defective. I returned both to Lowes and ended up getting one from Home Depot. The one from HD worked properly the first time. I had a hell of a time getting them to seal on my Rheem tank I replaced a month or two ago. Buddy came over to help and brought all the tools (I had moved out of the house and he still lives in the neighborhood) including pipe dope. No matter what we did, it wouldn't seal. I decided to pack up some more stuff while we waited to see if it was still leaking and found some 20 year old Oatey pipe dope. When we saw it still leaking, I took it apart, cleaned the threads really well again, and applied the old dope. Sealed it right up. 
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Posted: 3/17/2015 2:31:38 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just a stupid idea. The flue is very likely to cook the hell out of those hoses unless they are kept well away. Selling products with inappropriate applications is not illegal. You want solid copper formable lines. Either type L untempered (soft) tube or the 'corrugated' lines that are designed to be hand formed for small offsets. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
using flexible braided lines OK for electric, not for gas. The flue ion gas overheats them in short order. Gas uses solid copper corrugated flex lines. Hmm ok So something like this wouldn't work? Gas HWH install kit Just a stupid idea. The flue is very likely to cook the hell out of those hoses unless they are kept well away. Selling products with inappropriate applications is not illegal. You want solid copper formable lines. Either type L untempered (soft) tube or the 'corrugated' lines that are designed to be hand formed for small offsets. Now you have me worried because my vent doesn't get that hot. The water temps are up at 125F where they belong. While the burner is running, the vent is hot to the touch but the surrounding area isn't. Should more heat be pumping through? I would think that a more efficient device would throw less heat into the exhaust while maintaining proper water temps. But I could be wrong. Just want to make sure I didn't screw up |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 3:52:54 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Now you have me worried because my vent doesn't get that hot. The water temps are up at 125F where they belong. While the burner is running, the vent is hot to the touch but the surrounding area isn't. Should more heat be pumping through? I would think that a more efficient device would throw less heat into the exhaust while maintaining proper water temps. But I could be wrong. Just want to make sure I didn't screw up Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
using flexible braided lines OK for electric, not for gas. The flue ion gas overheats them in short order. Gas uses solid copper corrugated flex lines. Hmm ok So something like this wouldn't work? Gas HWH install kit Just a stupid idea. The flue is very likely to cook the hell out of those hoses unless they are kept well away. Selling products with inappropriate applications is not illegal. You want solid copper formable lines. Either type L untempered (soft) tube or the 'corrugated' lines that are designed to be hand formed for small offsets. Now you have me worried because my vent doesn't get that hot. The water temps are up at 125F where they belong. While the burner is running, the vent is hot to the touch but the surrounding area isn't. Should more heat be pumping through? I would think that a more efficient device would throw less heat into the exhaust while maintaining proper water temps. But I could be wrong. Just want to make sure I didn't screw up 40K btu is 40K btu. You don't want heat anywhere else other than the vent, if there is, its probably not venting. Cup your hands around the ddd (down draft diverter) [between top of w/h and ddd without touching it-while its running] if you can keep them there for longer than 5 seconds, its venting. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 4:05:10 PM EDT
[#20]
Down draft diverter? You mean the little hat?
Yea I can keep my hands there for a while. The vent pipe gets hot to the touch all the way up to the chimney flue where it ties in with the furnace exhaust. From what the other poster was saying about the amount of heat being enough to damage flex pipes, I was expecting it to get hotter. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 4:38:54 PM EDT
[#21]
Yeah the hat, if its venting properly the H/C pipes won't be subjected to any heat damage.
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Posted: 3/17/2015 9:00:21 PM EDT
[#22]
You must be pretty proud not to be the guy on the radio commercial, "my water heater went out, it took the guy 6 hours to show up, when he did he charged me 100 bucks just to look at it, then $1600 to replace it, I feel like I'd been had. So from now on I'll get Bla Bla home warranty insurance".
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Posted: 3/17/2015 10:25:47 PM EDT
[#23]
Whatever you do , do it before April 16 and the new fed regs kick in.
On April 16, the government has new standards when it comes to how efficient water heaters are, and if homeowners get a new one, they may have to make some extra room. The new water heaters are 2 to 8 inches taller and 2 to 6 inches wider, depending on the model. There's also changes in how it can be installed. These new models will also be more expensive. |
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Posted: 3/17/2015 10:33:38 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whatever you do , do it before April 16 and the new fed regs kick in. On April 16, the government has new standards when it comes to how efficient water heaters are, and if homeowners get a new one, they may have to make some extra room. The new water heaters are 2 to 8 inches taller and 2 to 6 inches wider, depending on the model. There's also changes in how it can be installed. These new models will also be more expensive. What a joke, those won't plug and play. If I was somewhere I'd be staying forever, I'd buy a few. So Natural Gas is Green but not green enough? |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 2:42:59 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What a joke, those won't plug and play. If I was somewhere I'd be staying forever, I'd buy a few. So Natural Gas is Green but not green enough? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Whatever you do , do it before April 16 and the new fed regs kick in. On April 16, the government has new standards when it comes to how efficient water heaters are, and if homeowners get a new one, they may have to make some extra room. The new water heaters are 2 to 8 inches taller and 2 to 6 inches wider, depending on the model. There's also changes in how it can be installed. These new models will also be more expensive. What a joke, those won't plug and play. If I was somewhere I'd be staying forever, I'd buy a few. So Natural Gas is Green but not green enough? Actually, if I remember correctly, the new standards require just more insulation on tanks 50 gallon and smaller. Tanks over 50 gallons will have new features that will prevent them from being plug and play and will cost more to install. A 40 gallon propane or NG is usually the right size for the average home. An electric should normally be at least 50 gallons. I'd rather have more insulation because heating that water is expensive. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 2:52:53 AM EDT
[#26]
Bradford White made in the usa. Actually 15 minutes away from where I live. We have put them in a few places and have had no issues in a normal life expectancy.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 10:01:48 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Actually, if I remember correctly, the new standards require just more insulation on tanks 50 gallon and smaller. Tanks over 50 gallons will have new features that will prevent them from being plug and play and will cost more to install. A 40 gallon propane or NG is usually the right size for the average home. An electric should normally be at least 50 gallons. I'd rather have more insulation because heating that water is expensive. Up here, a 50 gallon is pretty much the standard size. Along with more insulation, many gas models will require electricity, to run the flue dampers. I've been told that certain size electric models will end up having to be heat pump units, in order to satisfy the new codes. I am all for saving money, and using less fuel, but I'd rather have it mandated. I go into too many old homes that will now be a nightmare to change a water heater in. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 10:02:59 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Bradford White made in the usa. Actually 15 minutes away from where I live. We have put them in a few places and have had no issues in a normal life expectancy. I love Bradford White heaters. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 2:34:42 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Up here, a 50 gallon is pretty much the standard size. Along with more insulation, many gas models will require electricity, to run the flue dampers. I've been told that certain size electric models will end up having to be heat pump units, in order to satisfy the new codes. I am all for saving money, and using less fuel, but I'd rather have it mandated. I go into too many old homes that will now be a nightmare to change a water heater in. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Actually, if I remember correctly, the new standards require just more insulation on tanks 50 gallon and smaller. Tanks over 50 gallons will have new features that will prevent them from being plug and play and will cost more to install. A 40 gallon propane or NG is usually the right size for the average home. An electric should normally be at least 50 gallons. I'd rather have more insulation because heating that water is expensive. Up here, a 50 gallon is pretty much the standard size. Along with more insulation, many gas models will require electricity, to run the flue dampers. I've been told that certain size electric models will end up having to be heat pump units, in order to satisfy the new codes. I am all for saving money, and using less fuel, but I'd rather have it mandated. I go into too many old homes that will now be a nightmare to change a water heater in. http://www.bradfordwhite.com/naeca From the link: Gas water heaters will require additional insulation, incorporate newer flue baffling technologies (including flue dampers), incorporate electronic ignition in lieu of the standing pilot, or any combination of these. One impact will be an increase in the overall product size, especially in diameter. For gas-fired products over 55 gallons (=75,000 BTU/Hr.), fully condensing combustion technology will most likely be required. This will also mean that line voltage will have to be available as will a means for condensate disposal. Electric water heaters will require more insulation. This will increase the diameter and/or height of the water heater. Additional insulation may be required for piping and fittings such as drain and T&P valves. Electric water heaters over 55 gallons (=12 kW input) will likely utilize integrated heat pumps to meet the new EF requirements, based on currently available technology. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 9:37:08 AM EDT
[#30]
One other thing to look at.
If you have a pressure regulator in the house that reduces street pressure. They go bad and allow full street pressure to the home. That may be the cause of overflow if the tank is not leaking. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 4:57:17 PM EDT
[#31]
Your water heater heats already hot water?
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Posted: 3/21/2015 10:26:39 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Your water heater heats already hot water? Yes it does. |
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Posted: 3/21/2015 10:28:11 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes it does. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Your water heater heats already hot water? Yes it does. Thank you... Thermostats are like magnets. No one knows how they work. |
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Posted: 3/25/2015 10:21:13 PM EDT
[#34]
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Your water heater heats already hot water? I can't believe how long it took to get to that! Actually, I have a cold water heater and a hot water heater. Our house uses two 40-gallon water heaters in series. Not sure why it's done that way. |
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Posted: 3/25/2015 11:08:02 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I can't believe how long it took to get to that! Actually, I have a cold water heater and a hot water heater. Our house uses two 40-gallon water heaters in series. Not sure why it's done that way. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Your water heater heats already hot water? I can't believe how long it took to get to that! Actually, I have a cold water heater and a hot water heater. Our house uses two 40-gallon water heaters in series. Not sure why it's done that way. The "why heat hot water?" joke is played out About in series, great idea really, as long as the combustion air can support it. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 12:56:31 AM EDT
[#36]
I have two water heaters in series. The first one is a heat pump type in the garage. The second one is a standard 50 gallon electric. In the summer, we saw our electric bill take a nosedive with the heat pump water heater because with the hot engines on vehicles parked in a well insulated garage.....it gets hot in there. The heat pump water heater uses that free heat to heat the water....and the water heater cools the garage down as a side effect. Now, in the winter, it does very little for the heat pump water heater.
So, we have 100 gallons of heated water and our bill went down. It's pretty nice. We never run out of hot water. |
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Posted: 3/26/2015 10:08:45 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The "why heat hot water?" joke is played out Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Your water heater heats already hot water? I can't believe how long it took to get to that! Actually, I have a cold water heater and a hot water heater. Our house uses two 40-gallon water heaters in series. Not sure why it's done that way. The "why heat hot water?" joke is played out Party pooper |
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Posted: 3/28/2015 10:20:27 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whatever you do , do it before April 16 and the new fed regs kick in. On April 16, the government has new standards when it comes to how efficient water heaters are, and if homeowners get a new one, they may have to make some extra room. The new water heaters are 2 to 8 inches taller and 2 to 6 inches wider, depending on the model. There's also changes in how it can be installed. These new models will also be more expensive. Excellent advice. Last month I had to replace my gas water heater, as the old one was over 15 years old and could barely make it two showers, before it stopped providing hot water. I went with a Rheem Platinum NON ENGERY EFFICIENT from Home Depot. Why the non energy efficient? For me the big difference was that the energy efficient models REQUIRED an electrical outlet. If the power goes out, you won't have hot water with the energy efficient models. That enough was a deal killer for me. The new one works awesome...actually so well that I had to lower the hot water setting on it to A. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 3/28/2015 1:46:08 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Excellent advice. Last month I had to replace my gas water heater, as the old one was over 15 years old and could barely make it two showers, before it stopped providing hot water. I went with a Rheem Platinum NON ENGERY EFFICIENT from Home Depot. Why the non energy efficient? For me the big difference was that the energy efficient models REQUIRED an electrical outlet. If the power goes out, you won't have hot water with the energy efficient models. That enough was a deal killer for me. The new one works awesome...actually so well that I had to lower the hot water setting on it to A. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Whatever you do , do it before April 16 and the new fed regs kick in. On April 16, the government has new standards when it comes to how efficient water heaters are, and if homeowners get a new one, they may have to make some extra room. The new water heaters are 2 to 8 inches taller and 2 to 6 inches wider, depending on the model. There's also changes in how it can be installed. These new models will also be more expensive. Excellent advice. Last month I had to replace my gas water heater, as the old one was over 15 years old and could barely make it two showers, before it stopped providing hot water. I went with a Rheem Platinum NON ENGERY EFFICIENT from Home Depot. Why the non energy efficient? For me the big difference was that the energy efficient models REQUIRED an electrical outlet. If the power goes out, you won't have hot water with the energy efficient models. That enough was a deal killer for me. The new one works awesome...actually so well that I had to lower the hot water setting on it to A. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Someone please correct me if I'm wrong but from what I understand, the newer more energy efficient models (not including condensing types) only use electricity to operate the igniter and to open the flue damper. So, they shouldn't use much electricity. I bet that someone could figure out how to block the damper open and then come up with an alternative method of igniting the burner. |
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Posted: 3/29/2015 1:08:07 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whatever you do , do it before April 16 and the new fed regs kick in. On April 16, the government has new standards when it comes to how efficient water heaters are, and if homeowners get a new one, they may have to make some extra room. The new water heaters are 2 to 8 inches taller and 2 to 6 inches wider, depending on the model. There's also changes in how it can be installed. These new models will also be more expensive. I live in upstate NY. Bought my house in 2012. The hot water tank is a local hardware company (service star) brand, the install date on the label written in marker is 1992!! Maybe it's time i hurry over to HD and see what they have for tall 40 gallon natural gas water heaters. SIGH... |
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