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Posted: 10/23/2014 7:23:54 PM EDT
I'm looking at installing wood flooring on a second story loft and there's an area around the stairwell with a curve.  What's the best way to cut an inside curve on the planks?

I thought of a jig saw but thinking the ends will splinter as it cuts. I would be using a laminated wood flooring, if it was solid I don't think it would be likely to splinter.
I also thought of just cutting a slant and working it around the curve but I wanted it to fit as close to the curve as possible.

I want to get a tight fit because there's no way to put a molding on it to cover the gap around the curve unless someone has other ideas of how to do this.  

A friend suggested putting several planks together and then cutting the curve with template matching the curve but what to use to get a nice clean cut? My friend and I did the bottom floor so I've done wood flooring before but the curve is vexing me.
Link Posted: 10/23/2014 7:27:42 PM EDT
[#1]
If you can make a template, a router would work with a straight bit. That being said I'd just scribe it, score it with a knife and the use a good jig saw to cut it out. There are tricks you could do using a belt sander too, but I'm not endorsing anything like that
Link Posted: 10/23/2014 7:28:10 PM EDT
[#2]
Fine-toothed blade, and cut from the rear.  They may make special blades for laminate, I just used a general-purpose fine-toothed blade when I did mine, and had no trouble.
Link Posted: 10/23/2014 7:58:07 PM EDT
[#3]
how to get a curve in wood
Link Posted: 10/23/2014 9:47:33 PM EDT
[#4]
A coping saw?
Link Posted: 10/23/2014 11:16:53 PM EDT
[#5]
I would clamp a board on top of the finish piece with the layout line on the top piece.  Cut through both boards at the same time.  Use a coping saw or a jig saw, doesn't matter.  The top board supporting the finish piece should eliminate 99% of tear-out.
Or....cut through the top laminate layer with a utility knife, along the layout line.  Then cut about 1/16 away from that with a jig or coping saw.  Pre-cutting the laminate layer will make it impossible for it to splinter.  Sand any rough edges.

ETA - Personally, I would rough cut it, then finish it with a disk sander.  That would be quickest + easiest. 60 grit will work very fast, even on end-grain...and leave a decent enough finished edge.
Link Posted: 10/23/2014 11:51:04 PM EDT
[#6]
Does the OP have a band saw and a "rubber ruler"?
Link Posted: 10/24/2014 8:20:55 AM EDT
[#7]
Put masking tape on the piece you want to cut, mark your cut, use a fine tooth blade in a GOOD Jigsaw.
Done it this way for years, always turns out great.
Link Posted: 10/24/2014 8:47:05 AM EDT
[#8]
When I have to make pieces like that I make a duplicate piece out of MDF first.  Then I use my MDF piece to mark my final cut piece.  Take your final cut piece and cut close to the line you just made.  (1/8" or so).  With some double sided tape, attach your MDF piece to your actual piece.  Now using a router with a straight bearing bit (so the bearing rides along your MDF piece), route your final piece.
Link Posted: 10/24/2014 8:08:52 PM EDT
[#9]
Jig saw, finished surface DOWN.
The saw cuts on the up stroke.
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