So I'm wanting to possibly purchase a small generator within the next year.  I've done electrical wiring on my own before, but I'd like to get some confirmation of my thinking before proceeding.



One thing a lot of dealers of gennies will sell you is a transfer switch for the generator.  For example, Generac is one brand I'm interested in and their transfer switches are essentially large sub-panels that wire into your main breaker panel for your house that has both electrical wiring and control wiring.  This allows it to detect if power has gone out in order to start up the genny.



I have zero interest in an automatic transfer switch of any kind.  I do not intend to use one at all.  I want the transfer over to the generator to be entirely manual.  So with that said, my thinking here is as follows:



On my main breaker panel, I'll have one dedicated breaker with wiring running out to the generator with enough capacity to match the output of the genny.  This breaker will always remain turned off.  On the outside, I will install a typical subpanel that you'd use for a small external building.  The wire from the breaker in the main panel will connect into this subpanel.  I'll have a similar capacity breaker installed here, (also always kept shut off), the wiring from this breaker connects to the generator.  



So in order for me to switch over to the generator manually, I'll first have to disconnect my main breaker in the main panel so I don't backfeed into the grid.  Then I turn on the gnerator breaker in the main panel and in the subpanel, then start her up.  



Do I have all of this correct or is there something I'm missing?

Sounds right to me, but I only have an AAS in EET, so I'll defer to electricians and BSEE or above.

yes. Although i don't see the need for double redundant breakers - just use one in your primary panel, that runs to an appropriate box with receptacle that matches the high output (typically 50 amp 230v) of your genny. then when the power goes out, kill your mains so you don't back feed up the grid, connect your 50amp 230v cord from genny to plug in box feeding to 50a breaker, turn on 50a breaker, start genny, then turn on the switch at the genny. ta-da!

You don't need a disconnect/over current device outside.  Your generator should already have one on it.  

If you don't want to install a transfer switch, then what you want is one of these on your main panel with the appropriate breaker:



And one of these wired to that breaker, mounted near your generator location:



Failure to disconnect from the grid can cause a very bad/costly day.

and start the generator, then flip the breaker

Another vote for an interlock kit. Easy to install and is exactly what you're describing you want.

The simple mechanical interlocks like the one shown above work fine and meet all the rules.
The absolutely prevent the main from being on while the back fed breaker is on.

You also are required to have a mechanical anchor for the back fed breaker so it cannot be unplugged from the panel without taking out the screw.

These are not hard to find since some smaller panels use a back fed breaker as a main anyway.
They are useful to have for a sub-panel even when not required.

I have many years of experience working in panels and can safely work in a 120/240 V panel with live bus bars.
It is NOT for the inexperienced or ill equipped.

Arc flash injuries are often very bad.
Whatever tool gets across things can be liquified and sprayed all over the place.

this problem has already been solved for you.

ps
see
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1676532_GE_breaker_generator_interlock_kit_needed.html&page=1#i49919047
and
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_17/651376_Back_feeding_your_panel_using_an_interlock__project_AAR_w__pics.html
and
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_18/660169_.html
and
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_139/1589623_.html
and
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_10_18/669901_.html


ar-jedi

I didn't specifically look at Ar-Jedi's links, but I'm pretty sure they include how to backfeed an entire panel using a 120V generator.

Conversely, you can use a 240V generator and 240V arrangement (240V plug, 2 pole breaker, etc) to feed the entire panel. Simply coming off the panel with a single pole breaker and a 120V outlet will only energize one leg. There are ways around this (jumper between two breakers on different legs, jumper in a cord leading into a 240V arrangement) but if you're starting from scratch....might as well do it right the first time.

No electrician here but in ID any electrical work like that required an inspector and a sticker attached that the work was done right. ymmv

Plus 1 on the interlock switch.  

Yes.



On the last power outage here, I hooked up my generator the 'mickey mouse' way.



Flipped off the main breaker, and back-fed thru a 50 amp outlet.

Everything worked fine.



Power came back on - neighbors lights came back on, to tell me.



Killed the generator, turned on the main breaker. Everything powered up.



Started booting computers, cooking dinner, etc.



Then heard this god-awful 60Hz buzzing noise coming from outside.



Rushed out to see fire dripping out of the bottom of the generator head.

Flaming, melted plastic was running out of the coils, onto the pavement,

with 4 gals of gasoline sitting on top of it, in the fuel tank.



Unplugged the power cord, threw a bucket of water at it, put out the fire.



I had forgotten to unplug the generator power cord, so the gen. back-fed from the

50 amp outlet. Apparently, cheap generators do not like this,



Because I let all the smoke out of it.

Now I need a new 4400 watt generator head, at least.







I are teh stupidz, sometimes. That interlock, or similar, would have saved me.





 

adjusted for truth.  

ar-jedi

a trio of configurations are detailed in those links:

1) using a 120Vac-only generator to power 1/2 of the panel.  opportunistic initial wiring or simple rewiring of the panel puts all the "SHTF-necessary" branch circuits on one leg: refrigerator, kitchen outlets and lights, sump pump, etc.

2)  using a 120Vac-only generator to power the entirety of the panel. this requires bridging L1 and L2 IN THE CABLE AND ONLY IN THE CABLE used to attach the generator to the service panel.  it is important that this is ONLY done in the cable.   there is one caveat with the approach, and it revolves around the relatively rare usage of MWBC's (multi-wire branch circuits).

3) using a 120Vac/240Vac split phase generator to power the entirety of the panel.  from the end user perspective, this situation looks exactly like a utility company drop, except there is less total power available due to the limited capacity of the attached generator.    

ar-jedi