Porter Cable benchtop jointer

Site Notices

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Porter Cable benchtop jointer

Posted: 10/18/2014 3:54:03 AM EDT

Anybody got one of these? I'm trying to do some small scale woodworking on a condo balcony, where I need to be able to pick up any equipment and bring it inside or stick it in a closet. I saw this and wondered if it was even worth messing with.

Posted: 10/18/2014 10:54:48 AM EDT

[#1]

i have a couple of PorterCable tools.
never used that one but porter cable is gtg imho

Posted: 10/18/2014 11:32:48 PM EDT

[#2]

I've had one for probably 15 or more years.. But it's a delta .
Yours is identical to mine, same machine.
So either delta is making it for portal cable or
Delta sold it to p.c. .

Anyway to your point. I used to use mine a lot, it's a good machine for
It's size and cost. The only thing that ever really irritated
Me was when cutting maple, the area that shoots out the saw dust
Would often clog up and need to be cleaned out.

Posted: 10/19/2014 12:11:19 AM EDT

[#3]

I'd suggest hand planes or a hand-held power planer, instead. Do you have an outdoor workbench? IMO, that would be first and most important.

Posted: 10/19/2014 2:21:46 AM EDT

[#4]

I have a small workbench that I put outside when I want to make a mess.

and I have a woodriver #4, #6 and a low angle block plane. I've learned a bit about using the planes, and getting them back to sharpness after banging up the edges. I built a shooting board out of scrap plywood that was almost flat and almost square. Then I watched a lot of youtube to find out why it didn't work right. I built a new shooting board a couple weeks ago out of some MDF shelving and some molding so I didn't have to try to make things flat, just square them up. It looks good

But I'm trying to square up chunks that aren't square.

Problem in hand right now is a bock of wood from a grab bag that I think is bocote. It's about 4x3x2" only none of the sides are paralell to the opposite side nor square to the adjacent sides.

This thing is dense and hard. I'd like to square it up and cut a couple of slices off to rehandle a cooking fork. But my skills are weak when it comes to hand sawing. I can follow the line on the top, but the plane I'm trying to saw always comes out wavy. So I was wondering if a jointer might help.

I probably just need to saw a bunch more stuff.

Posted: 10/19/2014 5:26:19 AM EDT

[#5]

Here is my second shooting board.

I can unbolt it and switch the foot and the fence end for end, and turn it around to use it right handed. The fence is square in either direction at 90 degrees.

The 45 degree fence is perfectly aligned as a lefty board.and less than a degree off as as a righty board. I'll shim that out as needed.

Posted: 10/19/2014 10:20:52 AM EDT

[#6]

I will add, that small jointer isn't great for huge projects , but for small stuff
Like you are doing it's good. I don't know your experience level with a jointer,
But you need to know the golden rule- Don't hang your thumb!
Some times people push the back of the board through
With their thumb, and run it right over the blade.
I've seen a few guys over the years missing a chunk off the
End of their digit.

Posted: 10/19/2014 10:23:31 AM EDT

[#7]

If you are trying to square up a board that has four out of square edges....
I'd use a table saw. If you don't have one handy, the jointer will work.
You just have to make sure you are tight to the fence

Posted: 10/19/2014 2:41:09 PM EDT

[#8]

If the dimensions you mention are all in inches, then a jointer is NOT what you want. A jointer is not useful for small/short boards. In fact, they can be dangerous. You will need to mount small pieces to a larger carrier which can be safely passed over the jointer blade (or table saw blade).

Really, small boards are where hand tools shine.

Are your neighbors going to be okay with your power tools generating all sorts of saw dust blowing all over the outside and into their balconies? BTW, hand tools also generate a lot less saw dust.

Posted: 10/19/2014 6:27:12 PM EDT

[#9]

I've been making sawdust and shavings up here for three or four years, hell that might be my best product so far. Nobody has complained yet, but I do try to keep it vacuumed up. I'm more worried about noise, which is why I try to keep usage of power tools to a minimum.

Posted: 10/19/2014 11:05:07 PM EDT

[#10]

Routers are probably the worst noise and sawdust offenders. They are LOUD! and even worse when being fed wood. Also, they are usually turned on and left on for a while when being used. They throw tons of sawdust.

Table saws are probably next in line.

My jointer has a decent motor and runs very quietly. When being fed wood, the noise level goes up but it's not bad.

I would test out the jointer first, maybe in the store, to see if it has one of those amazingly noisy electric motors - the ones that SCREAM! Add some vibrating sheet metal and you may not enjoy using the tool.

Posted: 10/20/2014 1:22:45 AM EDT

[#11]

Given that I have never used a table saw.

How capable are the jobsite sized ones?

Using youtube and other internet sources as my trainers, how steep is the learning curve(while maintaining a finger count of ten)?

Should I just get some firewood and try to saw boards out of it by hand for a while.

I know I'm semi clueless, I'm just trying to get a clue while keeping all parts attached.

And if you can't tell, I have a healthy respect for the power tools I do have. I respect the ones with trigger switches anyway. The ones with on/off switches like my trim router inspire much caution cause they don't stop when you let go.

Posted: 10/20/2014 2:56:03 AM EDT

[#12]

That shooting board surely looks nice. I wish mine looked that good.

Posted: 10/20/2014 3:11:38 AM EDT

[#13]

Thanks. That's the first thing I've made that turned out exactly as I envisioned it on the first try.

Posted: 10/20/2014 9:18:08 PM EDT

[#14]

4x3 is kind of wicked small to be running across a powered jointer, at least as far as I'm concerned. Even a small one like this. If you do make sure you make yourself a pusher with a small lip of the back to help push small pieces like this.

I would also use hand planes for something this small. Get one side flat, then pick an adjoining face to make square. If you are going to rip off slices for your fork you only need two square surfaces. Do not use a table saw to joint edges. Especially on a small block like this. Hand plane (or power jointer) two edge then you can resaw. I have a big General 350 cabinet saw so I can't recommend any of the small ones. On something like bocote you are likely to get buring from the saw blade. Again, something that small could potentially be pretty hairy passing through cut.

Is this handle going on the fork like a tang style chisel? Or is it going on a flat piece of steel like a knife blade, and being riveted and glued on. If its like a chisel handle a lathe sounds like the right tool. If its like a knife blade, then you only need one flat surface anyways, then shape with rasps and sanding.

Posted: 10/20/2014 9:44:09 PM EDT

[#15]

For a piece that size all you need is the #4 plane.

Plane one face smooth and flat, use that face as a reference, mark your saw cut, make you saw cut a little wide of the line, then plane down to the line. Now you have stock of the right thickness.

You may not need a square edge for handles, but if you do you can plane and check with a square until you are happy, or just shoot the edge on your board, then plane the other edge to the marked width.

I'd watch some Paul Sellers' YouTube videos on stock preparation.

Posted: 10/20/2014 9:56:00 PM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:
4x3 is kind of wicked small to be running across a powered jointer, at least as far as I'm concerned. Even a small one like this. If you do make sure you make yourself a pusher with a small lip of the back to help push small pieces like this.

I would also use hand planes for something this small. Get one side flat, then pick an adjoining face to make square. If you are going to rip off slices for your fork you only need two square surfaces. Do not use a table saw to joint edges. Especially on a small block like this. Hand plane (or power jointer) two edge then you can resaw. I have a big General 350 cabinet saw so I can't recommend any of the small ones. On something like bocote you are likely to get buring from the saw blade. Again, something that small could potentially be pretty hairy passing through cut.

Is this handle going on the fork like a tang style chisel? Or is it going on a flat piece of steel like a knife blade, and being riveted and glued on. If its like a chisel handle a lathe sounds like the right tool. If its like a knife blade, then you only need one flat surface anyways, then shape with rasps and sanding.

View Quote

Like a knife scale. Trust me man if I do get either a jointer or a saw I'm going to be using push sticks. Ten years in restaurant kitchens with meat slicers and buffalo choppers and shit like that taught me to respect the sharp spinny things, and the hot things. And to watch out for the stupid shit people will do when they're in a hurry to get shit done.

Thanks!

Posted: 10/20/2014 10:05:56 PM EDT

[#17]

Quote History

Quoted:
Given that I have never used a table saw.

How capable are the jobsite sized ones?

Using youtube and other internet sources as my trainers, how steep is the learning curve(while maintaining a finger count of ten)?

Should I just get some firewood and try to saw boards out of it by hand for a while.

I know I'm semi clueless, I'm just trying to get a clue while keeping all parts attached.

And if you can't tell, I have a healthy respect for the power tools I do have. I respect the ones with trigger switches anyway. The ones with on/off switches like my trim router inspire much caution cause they don't stop when you let go.

View Quote

The learning curve is not that bad. What you want to look for is one with a solid fence that will clamp down straight with no wiggle, and a good miter that fits snuggly into the groove. Finding a saw with both of those qualities will probably cost you a decent chunk of cash, but will save you heartache in the long run. An alternative would be to keep your eye out for an older craftsman saw.

In the end, its just like using any other tool with a spinning blade. Keep your booger hooks away from the blade.

Posted: 10/20/2014 10:09:50 PM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:
For a piece that size all you need is the #4 plane.

Plane one face smooth and flat, use that face as a reference, mark your saw cut, make you saw cut a little wide of the line, then plane down to the line. Now you have stock of the right thickness.

You may not need a square edge for handles, but if you do you can plane and check with a square until you are happy, or just shoot the edge on your board, then plane the other edge to the marked width.

I'd watch some Paul Sellers' YouTube videos on stock preparation.

View Quote

Thanks, I've watched a lot of Paul's videos, I'm just getting to where I'm trying to do stuff, instead of watching it done. Up to now I've mostly been using off the shelf stuff and modifying it. Like that shooting board. I'm trying to take it up a notch, and Woodcraft and Lee Valley and a few other places have me going "Ooh Shiney!!" and my wallet going "Ouchowowowow". So I figured I'd ask a a few questions before I started buying any power tools.

Posted: 10/20/2014 10:11:03 PM EDT

[#19]

Thanks guys. Much food for thought in here.

Posted: 10/20/2014 11:19:17 PM EDT

[#20]

Quote History

Quoted:
For a piece that size all you need is the #4 plane.

Plane one face smooth and flat, use that face as a reference, mark your saw cut, make you saw cut a little wide of the line, then plane down to the line. Now you have stock of the right thickness.

You may not need a square edge for handles, but if you do you can plane and check with a square until you are happy, or just shoot the edge on your board, then plane the other edge to the marked width.

I'd watch some Paul Sellers' YouTube videos on stock preparation.

View Quote

Paul Sellers got me interested in using hand tools. I use power tools all day at work, and wanted to use more traditional tools for my home projects. My best investment so far has been Japanese hand saws. I have a set of Veritas carcass saws, but if I need something super accurate, I grab the Japanese saw. If I want something cut super fast, I grab the Japanese saws. A shooting board is next on my list of projects.

ETA: I'd recommend using strictly hand tools to anyone that does woodworking as a hobby. When I started to get my home workshop together, I looked at a lot of bench top power tools, like in the OP. What I found is they're mostly junk, many brands being owned by the same companies, manufactured in China. I'm glad I went the hand tool route. I find whole process relaxing, sharpening plane blades, doing layout, etc.

Posted: 10/20/2014 11:48:56 PM EDT

[#21]

I'm sure I need some better saws at some point, this is my goto right now.

I'm thinking I may switch back to a push style saw and see if I can cut straighter that way.

Do you sharpen by hand aplehr?

I have a Worksharp 3000 for the heavy work and assorted diamond, ceramic and natural stones for everything else.

Posted: 10/20/2014 11:58:31 PM EDT

[#22]

For pieces that small, I usually set the hand plane for a super thin cut, turn the plane upside down and clamp it in vice. Then, I push the wood over the blade - gently and carefully. Get one surface flat, then rotate to another face and make it square to the first. That way, I can better see the work.

Also, when working small pieces on a power tool, you can also mount it on a bigger board to make for safer handling.

Posted: 10/21/2014 12:03:36 AM EDT

[#23]

Quote History

Quoted:
For pieces that small, I usually set the hand plane for a super thin cut, turn the plane upside down and clamp it in vice. Then, I push the wood over the blade - gently and carefully. Get one surface flat, then rotate to another face and make it square to the first.

View Quote

I think I'm gonna try that, I just saw the clamp the plane in a vice idea the other day after I started this thread.

Posted: 10/21/2014 12:03:55 AM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:
I'm sure I need some better saws at some point, this is my goto right now.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21JSF468BNL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

I'm thinking I may switch back to a push style saw and see if I can cut straighter that way.

Do you sharpen by hand aplehr?

I have a Worksharp 3000 for the heavy work and assorted diamond, ceramic and natural stones for everything else.

View Quote

There are two main advantages to Japanese saws. They cut on the pull-stroke, so the blade naturally stays straighter while it's cutting. Most important for me though, is that I am cutting through two layout lines at once. Using a western saw, cutting on the down-stroke, one of your layout lines is out of view. Cutting on the up-stroke with a Japanese saw, your top and side layout line are right in front of you the whole time. So, you don't need to peek around the back of your cut to make sure your cut is perpendicular. Biggest drawback of the Japanese saws is that the whole time you're cutting, you're pulling sawdust right where you need to see. Either one takes practice, but the Japanese saws seem more intuitive to me.

ETA- I use a Veritas Mark 2 and waterstones for plane blades. The cheaper roller type guides work ok with planes blades, but don't hold a chisel very well. The Mark 2 works very well, and should last a lifetime.

Posted: 10/21/2014 12:11:51 AM EDT

[#25]

I have the MK2 as well, It's worked great for me except on a 1/4" chisel. The weight of the guide kept pushing the chisel sideways and I'd end up with a skewed edge. I tried a guide that clamps from the side and fixed it though.

Posted: 10/21/2014 12:15:31 AM EDT

[#26]

Quote History

Quoted:
I have the MK2 as well, It's worked great for me except on a 1/4" chisel. The weight of the guide kept pushing the chisel sideways and I'd end up with a skewed edge. I tried a guide that clamps from the side and fixed it though.

View Quote

I had similar problems. I wrap a small piece of rubber shelf liner around smaller chisels, and it holds them a lot tighter. I also don't apply much downward pressure, just maybe 1-2 lbs near the tip of the chisel.

Posted: 10/21/2014 12:21:54 AM EDT

[#27]

Thank you!

Posted: 10/21/2014 3:21:49 AM EDT

[#28]

I have some bench top water stones and even a motorized, circular water stone for sharpening, and a strop for honing. I'm somewhat unhappy with them all. I am moving towards oil-lubricated, fine grit sand paper on a thick piece of glass. It's cheap, fast, super-flat to start and stays flat with use. You can sharpen an 8" wide plane blade with no trouble.

Posted: 10/21/2014 3:57:44 AM EDT

[#29]

I got the 8" DMT benchstones, because I was so tired of flattening my Edgepro stones while keeping my knives sharp. With a good guide they work great for chisels and plane irons. They're a bit spendy, but they're holding up well.

I can also recommend the PSA backed 3M Microabrasive film and a piece of glass for some real fine honing and polishing.

3M microabrasive

Posted: 10/21/2014 4:22:43 AM EDT

[#30]

4"x3"x2"? I'd probably just lay my belt sander on its side and square the piece up manually by lightly pressing it against the moving belt.

A stationary belt sander would be ideal, but probably a little overkill for a single 4" piece.

Posted: 10/21/2014 4:28:51 AM EDT

[#31]

Quote History

Quoted:
4"x3"x2"? I'd probably just lay my belt sander on its side and square the piece up manually by lightly pressing it against the moving belt.

A stationary belt sander would be ideal, but probably a little overkill for a single 4" piece.

View Quote

I got one of those! I kinda forgot

I know I was overthinking this, but I've been approaching every new project with an eye towards learning a new skill. Thanks for the smack upside the head, I get a bit of tunnel vision sometimes.

Posted: 10/21/2014 4:37:36 AM EDT

[#32]

Quote History

Quoted:

I got one of those!

I know I was overthinking this, but I've been approaching every new project with an eye towards learning a new skill.

Only thing is won't I get burn?

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
4"x3"x2"? I'd probably just lay my belt sander on its side and square the piece up manually by lightly pressing it against the moving belt.

A stationary belt sander would be ideal, but probably a little overkill for a single 4" piece.

I got one of those!

I know I was overthinking this, but I've been approaching every new project with an eye towards learning a new skill.

Only thing is won't I get burn?

Oh, there's definitely a potential for it to rip the piece out of your hand and send your knuckles crashing into the belt

but a light touch a little caution will do much to prevent that. I'd practice with a similarly-sized piece of scrap first.

Or, to bring the knuckle-risk down near zero, pick up some double-stick tape (adhesive on both sides... wonderful stuff for woodworking) and stick your chunk to a larger piece to use as a handle of sorts.

Posted: 10/21/2014 5:46:32 AM EDT

[#33]

What kind of tape is that? I have some double sided duct tape, but that would leave goo on the wood.

Posted: 10/21/2014 12:00:38 PM EDT

[#34]

Japanese hand saws are not inherently better than western saws. The thing is saws are difficult to sharpen when you start getting below 12 teeth per inch. And tooth set is also important - some people put too much in.
If you want to invest in some good tools, and want to try a really outstanding saw, you will find none better than those made by this guy (Mark Harrel)

http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/

I've got several now. He will file and set the teeth for the types of wood you will be working with most. It's one of the things he asks when you put in the order.

Posted: 10/21/2014 12:06:14 PM EDT

[#35]

For flattening your small block, if you have a good work beck vise, I would take your no6 and get the blade as sharp as you can get it (I use wet SiC paper on a granite block to 2000 grit, then home on a 8000 water stone). Clamp it upside down and push your block across. Just like a jointer. Set blade for a very light cut. Much safer and easy to control.

Posted: 10/21/2014 1:31:19 PM EDT

[#36]

Quote History

Quoted:
What kind of tape is that? I have some double sided duct tape, but that would leave goo on the wood.

View Quote

I use this stuff:
Woodcraft turner's tape
for sticking small, flat pieces to the bed of a CNC router when there's not enough clamping area to work with. It's expensive, but given the use, one roll will last a long time.
There are probably cheaper options for a small, one-off project like yours, though. I've heard of some folks using carpet tape, but haven't used it myself.

You could also forgo the tape entirely and just figure out a way to clamp your workpiece to something big enough to handle easily without getting in the way of the face you're going to straighten.

Posted: 10/21/2014 6:21:54 PM EDT

[#37]

Quote History

Quoted:
For flattening your small block, if you have a good work beck vise, I would take your no6 and get the blade as sharp as you can get it (I use wet SiC paper on a granite block to 2000 grit, then home on a 8000 water stone). Clamp it upside down and push your block across. Just like a jointer. Set blade for a very light cut. Much safer and easy to control.

View Quote

Probably not safer than clamping the workpiece in a vise and using the plane regularly. With the workpiece held and the plane blade facing down it is difficult to scalp your fingertips. When you are pushing the workpiece across a fixed upward facing plane any little slip can lead to a laceration.

Main thing is to be safe and deliberate and you shouldn't run into trouble.

Posted: 10/22/2014 3:32:21 AM EDT

[#38]

I clamped the block and took the #4 to it. I got one side flat and the next one is almost flat and square to the first side. This stuff is hard. If it works out it's gonna look great though. Thanks again for all the advice!

Posted: 10/22/2014 11:09:38 AM EDT

[#39]

Quote History

Quoted:

Probably not safer than clamping the workpiece in a vise and using the plane regularly. With the workpiece held and the plane blade facing down it is difficult to scalp your fingertips. When you are pushing the workpiece across a fixed upward facing plane any little slip can lead to a laceration.

Main thing is to be safe and deliberate and you shouldn't run into trouble.

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
For flattening your small block, if you have a good work beck vise, I would take your no6 and get the blade as sharp as you can get it (I use wet SiC paper on a granite block to 2000 grit, then home on a 8000 water stone). Clamp it upside down and push your block across. Just like a jointer. Set blade for a very light cut. Much safer and easy to control.

Probably not safer than clamping the workpiece in a vise and using the plane regularly. With the workpiece held and the plane blade facing down it is difficult to scalp your fingertips. When you are pushing the workpiece across a fixed upward facing plane any little slip can lead to a laceration.

Main thing is to be safe and deliberate and you shouldn't run into trouble.

This is a very old and safe technique. Its how the big 7 and 8 jointer planes were commonly used. It takes out the probability the operator will rock the plane during the cut, with a better chance of a square flat side On small pieces.
Don't go out in the real world or work with sharp tools if you are afraid of a little nick once in awhile.

Posted: 10/22/2014 8:21:50 PM EDT

[#40]

Quote History

Quoted:

This is a very old and safe technique. Its how the big 7 and 8 jointer planes were commonly used. It takes out the probability the operator will rock the plane during the cut, with a better chance of a square flat side On small pieces.
Don't go out in the real world or work with sharp tools if you are afraid of a little nick once in awhile.

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
For flattening your small block, if you have a good work beck vise, I would take your no6 and get the blade as sharp as you can get it (I use wet SiC paper on a granite block to 2000 grit, then home on a 8000 water stone). Clamp it upside down and push your block across. Just like a jointer. Set blade for a very light cut. Much safer and easy to control.

Probably not safer than clamping the workpiece in a vise and using the plane regularly. With the workpiece held and the plane blade facing down it is difficult to scalp your fingertips. When you are pushing the workpiece across a fixed upward facing plane any little slip can lead to a laceration.

Main thing is to be safe and deliberate and you shouldn't run into trouble.

This is a very old and safe technique. Its how the big 7 and 8 jointer planes were commonly used. It takes out the probability the operator will rock the plane during the cut, with a better chance of a square flat side On small pieces.
Don't go out in the real world or work with sharp tools if you are afraid of a little nick once in awhile.

You stated clamping the plane and holding onto the workpiece to run it over the blade was, "Much safer."

That is BS. His workpiece is 4x3x2", so best case he is muscling the 2" face against the upturned blade, that can amount to considerable force and a slip leaves your hand vulnerable.

Clamping the wood in a vise and planing it the "regular" way is far safer. For small thin workpieces your technique is tried and true, but not in this situation.

You are wrong, worse, you can't even admit you are wrong. In the real world, anyone with a lick of sense will do it my way.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Porter Cable benchtop jointer

General » Do It Yourself

Warning

Confirm Action

About AR15.COM

Stay Connected

Newsletter

Contact Us