Here is what I have going:

1. Floor sloping to the center of the house because it was built in 1925 with (2) 8x8 wood supports and a nailed-together main beam.
2. (3) Adjustable Building Posts - Rated for 19,900lbs each. WIll be spaced evenly across 28ft span (7ft between each)
3. 20T Bottle Jack and a 4x4 pices of Douglas Fir for a jacking post.

Sorry for the potato picture.



As of this post, the weight is on the bottle jack/Metal Post and there is another metal post at least in place and level just out of frame to the left.

Anyone do this themselves? How did it go? Any advice? Disclaimer: I am a Mechanical Engineer with my PE, but real world experience can't be taught in a classroom.

More eyes always helps. Thank you



Update 4-17-14:

I have the 3 posts in place and the weight of the house has been transferred. The third post is behind the wood support near the desk. The posts are at most 7ft spacing.



The bottle jack being used at each post to help raise the beam back up and adjust the posts as needed. Some windows and doors have actually squared up and are now easier to use. There have been some noises, but not as many as I thought.

Now, on to a new issue. There is a joist that is almost toast where it sits on the beam.



There is very little room in the space to work, but I need to repair/re-support this joist on the beam. I think my only option to do it right is to jack up that joist as much as I can and sister a new joist on the opposite side and glue/bolt them together and fit the new joist to the beam profile.

Ive never done it personally, but looks like you got the right ideas. Just jack it up slow

I did A LOT of research and online searching before buying the materials.

Looks about rite.  We did it this fall and at least you have a cement floor every where.  
We added a number of new supports along the beam and in a few other locations as well before we set the jacks back down on the new wood posts.  One mistake folks often make is that they use the metal screw posts and ditch the wood ones.  We had some that had rusted away to nothing since we have alot of moisture in the basement.  The wood ones were still good but they had settled a bit.  The metal ones also seem less stable than a good thick wood post.

I am planning on removing the old wood supports and keeping the steel supports. Why is that a mistake? There were 2 wood supports and there will be 3 steel supports. My basement isn't too moist and the steel posts are coated, but I will probably pit another coat on.

These are the steel adjustable building columns you get at Lowe's. Supposed to be permanent.

Are you going to put a footing under those posts?

That's a lot of weight resting just on the slab.

Don't do to much at a time   and un lock the windows

And expect to hear some sounds you've never heard before.

Just had the same thing done at my home. They jacked it about 1.5" up due to a crappy header that the previous owner had put on when doing an addition.

Expect some cracking in the sheet rock upstairs, just keep going until you determine the floor is level upstairs. We used the steel support pole and reinforced the header with three LVL's (laminate beams).

Good luck.

Its all the original lathe & plaster still. We are getting the floor level before we tear out every room and replace with 1/2" drywall.

The wood supports look to have been moved once before with no footing poured in their current portion. The weight, presently, is just resting on two places on the slab. I am adding a third and decreasing the distance between supports. That should ease the load seen by the slab at each support location.

Oh, she's moaning and groaning, but i think she likes it. It seems to be responding well so far.

As mentioned, your new columns need to bear on a footer....a slab of unknown thickness and quality likely won't cut it.

Additionally, take a good look at your beams and your proposed support locations. Often the columns are located at the beam joints. There is a good reason for this. A properly designed and fastened beam system should be able to transmit the load adequately, but since a lot of the variables are unknown here, I'd play it conservatively.

Under a modern construction set-up I would agree with you. However, the main beam, which I presume was constructed in 1925, is comprised of Multiple 2x10s nailed in a staggered configuration to make a beam 27ft long and (3) 2x10s wide. There are also 2x4s nailed to the outside 2x10s at the bottom.

It is essentially a top hat shape and the placement of the supports does not appear to have any relation to were the ends of the various 2x10s come together. They are nailed together in a staggered pattern down the length of the beam and where the existing supports are, there are no ends coming together on top.

Also, the existing supports look to have been moved previously as there is discoloration on the slab where they previously where. They moved each of them almost a foot along the beam. There was no new fotter poured for the existing locations.

I have drilled the floor to install anchors and the slab is at least 6" thick. I stopped because I only had a 6" bit and using 3-1/2" anchors only to prevent lateral movement.

Do it all the time. Just replace 200 linear foot of wooden main beam in an apartment complex, replaced by steel. Do you know why the floors are not level? Normally it's because the outer walls of the structure and footings are falling or hydro static pressure under the slab is causing the floor to heave. Your  jacking set up there looks like a pain in the ass, a 6x6 with a jack on top and a 4x4 half inch piece of steel on top will be a hell of a lot easier and will have less chance of a kick out, they hurt when it all hits you. A pier does need to go under those post, on a house I have not poured one over 2'x2'x2', most of the time it's less.

Btw, I'm a foundation contractor. Also those Lowe's jacks you have there are prone to leek down, they replace them no questions asked. I have 15 sitting in the shop that have to go back.

I've done it before and the above is true.

Update

You are on the right path with this thinking. Just remember that after the joist is sistered and you relieve pressure from the jack that they tend to sag just a little bit so you either need to rejack an shim which is preferred or bring it a little high and let sag onto place.

This is one of my least favorite jobs. I always get very paranoid lifting that much weight.