Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Site Notices
Posted: 11/26/2012 6:16:23 AM EDT
I really need some help here.

My Dodge Durango is a 2001 with the 4.7 Liter engine. It is throwing a P0320 code, which according to Google involves the crankshaft position sensor somehow.

The idle is extremely erratic. When the engine gets over 2000 RPMs, it begins surging and I experience significant power loss. It is making my commute difficult and dangerous, and I need to know if this is something I can fix myself or if it's going to cost me an arm and a leg. Last time I took it to the mechanic it was some other stupid fucking sensor that ended up costing me $754 total.

Someone please help.
Link Posted: 11/26/2012 9:06:15 AM EDT
[#1]
I would try replacing the crankshaft position sensor.  They have non-OEM from autozone for about $26.  It is worth a shot before you take it in.  Remember to disconnect battery for a few minutes to reset codes and reset PCM for new sensor.  It may drive a little rough for a few days while sensors are relearned.

Here are instructions for replacement:

The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor is located at the right-rear side of the engine cylinder block CKP Sensor Location/Removal/Installation - 4.7L V - 8 Engine It is positioned and bolted into a machined hole in the engine block

Disconnect CKP electrical connector at sensor.
Remove CKP mounting bolt CKP Sensor Location/Removal/Installation - 4.7L V - 8 Engine
Carefully pry sensor from cylinder block in a rocking action with two small screwdrivers.
Remove sensor from vehicle.
Check condition of sensor o-ring.
INSTALLATION
Clean out machined hole in engine block.
Apply a small amount of engine oil to sensor o-ring.
Install sensor into engine block with a slight rocking action. Do not twist sensor into position as damage to o-ring may result
CAUTION: Before tightening sensor mounting bolt, be sure sensor is completely flush to cylinder block. If sensor is not flush, damage to sensor mounting tang may result.

Install mounting bolt and tighten to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
Connect electrical connector to sensor.
Link Posted: 11/26/2012 9:57:32 PM EDT
[#2]
Just as an FYI, I had a 2001 Dodge Ram with the 5.9l.  Same symptoms, same code.  New Crankshaft Position Sensor and it was right as rain.

Simple to replace.
Link Posted: 11/27/2012 6:39:07 AM EDT
[#3]
Thanks guys. Going to pick up the sensor tonight.

What do I need? Ramps? will jack stands work? What tools are required?
Link Posted: 11/27/2012 4:16:17 PM EDT
[#4]
well, fuck. The sensor is terribly, horribly stuck tight. There is no way it is coming out.
Link Posted: 11/27/2012 4:19:46 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
well, fuck. The sensor is terribly, horribly stuck tight. There is no way it is coming out.


after you removed the bolts, or the bolts are fucked up?

Looking at pictures of it, the bolt doesn't bear anything, and I can't see how a probe that shape could get stuck. If it has the metal flange, I'd use a little cat's paw or a disposable regular screwdriver to lever it out.
Link Posted: 11/27/2012 4:24:44 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Quoted:
well, fuck. The sensor is terribly, horribly stuck tight. There is no way it is coming out.


after you removed the bolts, or the bolts are fucked up?


Bolts were fine.

Its been an hour of us greasing the sensor with WD40 and trying to get it to wiggle even a tiny bit.
Link Posted: 11/27/2012 4:39:47 PM EDT
[#7]
I see some of them have a bolt and what looks like a smaller screw.

I would hose the AO with carb cleaner to make sure you aren't missing anything. Then, I'd put some vice grips on that (already broken, have a replacement in hand) fucker and yank it out.

Before I did that, though, I'd be sure to check for another bolt or screw or flange holding it in.
Link Posted: 11/27/2012 5:56:22 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
I see some of them have a bolt and what looks like a smaller screw.

I would hose the AO with carb cleaner to make sure you aren't missing anything. Then, I'd put some vice grips on that (already broken, have a replacement in hand) fucker and yank it out.

Before I did that, though, I'd be sure to check for another bolt or screw or flange holding it in.


Gotta be kinda careful.  It sucks if you break it off inside the block.
Link Posted: 11/27/2012 6:10:38 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I see some of them have a bolt and what looks like a smaller screw.

I would hose the AO with carb cleaner to make sure you aren't missing anything. Then, I'd put some vice grips on that (already broken, have a replacement in hand) fucker and yank it out.

Before I did that, though, I'd be sure to check for another bolt or screw or flange holding it in.


Gotta be kinda careful.  It sucks if you break it off inside the block.


Of course, you're correct.
Link Posted: 11/29/2012 4:13:19 PM EDT
[#10]
Updates?
Link Posted: 11/30/2012 6:41:50 AM EDT
[#11]
Finally got it out after two nights and half a day of prying, wrestling, and wrenching.

The plastic on the old one has the consistency of pie crust. We are so fucking lucky we managed to get it out.

We bought a much better replacement, with a metal core and tang, so this will never happen to some other poor bastard again.





Link Posted: 11/30/2012 6:45:31 AM EDT
[#12]
Does the new one work and fix your codes and rough idle?
Link Posted: 11/30/2012 6:46:58 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Does the new one work and fix your codes and rough idle?


Had to reset the computer to remove the code, so we'll see if it comes back.

It got to the point where it was stalling randomly and almost impossible to start again. This morning I was able to leave for work without it dying on me, so that's at least progress. No surges or power loss on the way to work.

I don't trust it, not yet, but I think the problem is fixed.
Link Posted: 11/30/2012 6:52:31 AM EDT
[#14]
In my experience the first 2-3 starts may be rough after a reset.
Link Posted: 11/30/2012 8:17:27 AM EDT
[#15]
Pie crust, you say? Ugh. Congrats on getting it out in one big chunk.
Link Posted: 11/30/2012 11:54:14 AM EDT
[#16]
little anti seize on the metal part will help with future replacement. very common problem on the dodges of that vintage is that sensor
Link Posted: 12/1/2012 3:03:22 PM EDT
[#17]
I work at a Chrysler dealer. If you need anything, send me the VIN and I'll give you my price (cost+10%+shipping).

Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top