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I was waitlisted for JAX so no I didn't get to go. Air travel is still a shit show according to my sprinter team lead who had to stay in DC overnight and lost his phone in a taxi.
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Stupid is as stupid does.
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Had one of our brand new D5 fire cats burn up, 54ish hours on it. Operator said it derated on him while running from a change in fire behavior. Only codes in vision link and stored in the tractor were can bus faults and high ambient temp. Ambient temp sensor saw 800*, so no wonder it felt derated, there was probably no oxygen left and the engine was being snuffed out.
No injuries and all of the protective equipment did its job, even when the glass blew out. Tractor is probably a total loss, but one of my partners is going to check into rebuilding it. I'll post pics if my boss gives me permission. |
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4 skid steers from different companies land on the same day. All failed DEF headers and they're all within a couple hundred hours of each other.
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Our 938M averages one every 1000 hours View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: 4 skid steers from different companies land on the same day. All failed DEF headers and they're all within a couple hundred hours of each other. Our 938M averages one every 1000 hours It's been a minute since we've had a failed one come through the shop. Maybe 1 in the last 6-8 months. I'm sure our field guys see quite a bit more though. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: It's always the DEF quality sensor, which is part of the head on that machine. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: It's been a minute since we've had a failed one come through the shop. Maybe 1 in the last 6-8 months. I'm sure our field guys see quite a bit more though. It's always the DEF quality sensor, which is part of the head on that machine. Yup. All of these were concentration errors but the DEF tested just fine. It's kinda weird cuz ET shows that the concentration is correct. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Yup. All of these were concentration errors but the DEF tested just fine. It's kinda weird cuz ET shows that the concentration is correct. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: It's been a minute since we've had a failed one come through the shop. Maybe 1 in the last 6-8 months. I'm sure our field guys see quite a bit more though. It's always the DEF quality sensor, which is part of the head on that machine. Yup. All of these were concentration errors but the DEF tested just fine. It's kinda weird cuz ET shows that the concentration is correct. Fuckin’ Caterpillar. Our 836K has had an engine replacement, 2 def headers, and 6 ARD heads, all in less than 6000 hours. |
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Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Fuckin’ Caterpillar. Our 836K has had an engine replacement, 2 def headers, and 6 ARD heads, all in less than 6000 hours. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: It's been a minute since we've had a failed one come through the shop. Maybe 1 in the last 6-8 months. I'm sure our field guys see quite a bit more though. It's always the DEF quality sensor, which is part of the head on that machine. Yup. All of these were concentration errors but the DEF tested just fine. It's kinda weird cuz ET shows that the concentration is correct. Fuckin’ Caterpillar. Our 836K has had an engine replacement, 2 def headers, and 6 ARD heads, all in less than 6000 hours. We've got a "new" K in the shop right now. Less than 4k hours and is getting a new engine since a new head was months out. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: We had the meandering liners issue. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: We've got a "new" K in the shop right now. Less than 4k hours and is getting a new engine since a new head was months out. We had the meandering liners issue. I'm sure this was something similar as well. I know itt was pushing coolant out, but I don't know what else it was. The new engine decision was made before it even came into the shop. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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I figure I post up jn here for some help
2011 f-150 5.0 177k There’s a upper knock only at normal op temp and only at idle 1000rpm it’s gone and cold engine it’s not there at idle Verified oil pressure at idle at normal op temp 15 psi as per spec 5w30 oil new filter whats Next? is this a lifter issue? VCT issue? here’s a video https://youtu.be/UW_zwL7gzYg |
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Take it easy and if it's easy take it twice
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Yup. All of these were concentration errors but the DEF tested just fine. It's kinda weird cuz ET shows that the concentration is correct. View Quote Our current DEF issue is the level sensor. We went to an ultrasonic something depth sensor a while ago, reads depth the the millimeter from the bottom. Apparently they are sensitive to being overfilled, but you just fill it till it’s full, so what’s “overfilled”? Some set a fault, some don’t. Just read 0mm like it’s out of DEF but the tank is full. You can lower it and it will read but goes back to 0mm before it reads “full”. Not serviceable, needs a $3000 tank. They’re all still under warranty for now, but that will be a hit in a year or two when they’re getting over 5 years old. We don’t do quality sensors, it’s calculated off NOx values. Shitty DEF (or Blue DEF brand diesel fuel additive in the tank) eventually set an adaptation fault, but it sends you down a worm hole of checking every single thing in the system. Refractometer saves the day. |
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Originally Posted By maslin02: Our current DEF issue is the level sensor. We went to an ultrasonic something depth sensor a while ago, reads depth the the millimeter from the bottom. Apparently they are sensitive to being overfilled, but you just fill it till it’s full, so what’s “overfilled”? Some set a fault, some don’t. Just read 0mm like it’s out of DEF but the tank is full. You can lower it and it will read but goes back to 0mm before it reads “full”. Not serviceable, needs a $3000 tank. They’re all still under warranty for now, but that will be a hit in a year or two when they’re getting over 5 years old. We don’t do quality sensors, it’s calculated off NOx values. Shitty DEF (or Blue DEF brand diesel fuel additive in the tank) eventually set an adaptation fault, but it sends you down a worm hole of checking every single thing in the system. Refractometer saves the day. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By maslin02: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Yup. All of these were concentration errors but the DEF tested just fine. It's kinda weird cuz ET shows that the concentration is correct. Our current DEF issue is the level sensor. We went to an ultrasonic something depth sensor a while ago, reads depth the the millimeter from the bottom. Apparently they are sensitive to being overfilled, but you just fill it till it’s full, so what’s “overfilled”? Some set a fault, some don’t. Just read 0mm like it’s out of DEF but the tank is full. You can lower it and it will read but goes back to 0mm before it reads “full”. Not serviceable, needs a $3000 tank. They’re all still under warranty for now, but that will be a hit in a year or two when they’re getting over 5 years old. We don’t do quality sensors, it’s calculated off NOx values. Shitty DEF (or Blue DEF brand diesel fuel additive in the tank) eventually set an adaptation fault, but it sends you down a worm hole of checking every single thing in the system. Refractometer saves the day. Just the header is $2900. The pump is about the same price but those don't fail often. The only checks the t/s steps have us do is to check w/ a refractometer and then check the connector for corrosion. Takes all of about 15 minutes including raising the cab. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By midcap: I figure I post up jn here for some help 2011 f-150 5.0 177k There’s a upper knock only at normal op temp and only at idle 1000rpm it’s gone and cold engine it’s not there at idle Verified oil pressure at idle at normal op temp 15 psi as per spec 5w30 oil new filter whats Next? is this a lifter issue? VCT issue? here’s a video https://youtu.be/UW_zwL7gzYg View Quote Did you open up the old filter? I didn't listen on headphones, but it sounds deep enough in tone to be rod knock. |
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dfwlabrescue.org
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So, my dad’s tj hasn’t had any more oil pressure issues or knocking sounds since the time at the off-road park. Starting to wonder if that last hill was steep and long enough to starve the engine of oil for a short bit.
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Originally Posted By sheltot: Did you open up the old filter? I didn't listen on headphones, but it sounds deep enough in tone to be rod knock. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By sheltot: Originally Posted By midcap: I figure I post up jn here for some help 2011 f-150 5.0 177k There’s a upper knock only at normal op temp and only at idle 1000rpm it’s gone and cold engine it’s not there at idle Verified oil pressure at idle at normal op temp 15 psi as per spec 5w30 oil new filter whats Next? is this a lifter issue? VCT issue? here’s a video https://youtu.be/UW_zwL7gzYg Did you open up the old filter? I didn't listen on headphones, but it sounds deep enough in tone to be rod knock. I still have it, I’ll Open it but when I had the oil pan off none were loose. But it’s not a knock lock on the crank, that’s a faster pace, this one is not as fast And then you really hear it good on the driver side vs the pass sid and there is no noise when I listen to the oil pan or the bottom of the engien. |
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Take it easy and if it's easy take it twice
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Originally Posted By midcap: I still have it, I’ll Open it but when I had the oil pan off none were loose. But it’s not a knock lock on the crank, that’s a faster pace, this one is not as fast And then you really hear it good on the driver side vs the pass sid and there is no noise when I listen to the oil pan or the bottom of the engien. View Quote Have you wiggled every single bracket that things are attached to once the engine has warmed up? |
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Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Have you wiggled every single bracket that things are attached to once the engine has warmed up? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By midcap: I still have it, I’ll Open it but when I had the oil pan off none were loose. But it’s not a knock lock on the crank, that’s a faster pace, this one is not as fast And then you really hear it good on the driver side vs the pass sid and there is no noise when I listen to the oil pan or the bottom of the engien. Have you wiggled every single bracket that things are attached to once the engine has warmed up? on the ourside the engine? I just checked all the things on the accesory drive all tight |
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Take it easy and if it's easy take it twice
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Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Have you wiggled every single bracket that things are attached to once the engine has warmed up? View Quote We had a crazy banging/rattling/thumping noise from the engine on a brand new van. Mostly at idle but kind of there all the time. The AC compressor was loose, loose loose. We’ll probably never see that again, but what a weird noise. |
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Originally Posted By maslin02: We had a crazy banging/rattling/thumping noise from the engine on a brand new van. Mostly at idle but kind of there all the time. The AC compressor was loose, loose loose. We’ll probably never see that again, but what a weird noise. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By maslin02: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Have you wiggled every single bracket that things are attached to once the engine has warmed up? We had a crazy banging/rattling/thumping noise from the engine on a brand new van. Mostly at idle but kind of there all the time. The AC compressor was loose, loose loose. We’ll probably never see that again, but what a weird noise. I'm working on a skid steer w/ some hydrostat issues and the guy was complaining of noise while traveling. The worn-out tracks vibrate the whole machine and the cab roof resonates with the vibration. Put your hand on the ceiling and it goes away. Might be hard to convince him to get new tracks when he sees the bill by the time I'm done w/ it. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I'm working on a skid steer w/ some hydrostat issues and the guy was complaining of noise while traveling. The worn-out tracks vibrate the whole machine and the cab roof resonates with the vibration. Put your hand on the ceiling and it goes away. Might be hard to convince him to get new tracks when he sees the bill by the time I'm done w/ it. View Quote I found out a couple of years ago that if you replace a really worn idler, you’re better off doing the whole undercarriage of a D8. New idler plus worn rollers makes it feel like the dozer is going to shake apart. |
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Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: I found out a couple of years ago that if you replace a really worn idler, you’re better off doing the whole undercarriage of a D8. New idler plus worn rollers makes it feel like the dozer is going to shake apart. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I'm working on a skid steer w/ some hydrostat issues and the guy was complaining of noise while traveling. The worn-out tracks vibrate the whole machine and the cab roof resonates with the vibration. Put your hand on the ceiling and it goes away. Might be hard to convince him to get new tracks when he sees the bill by the time I'm done w/ it. I found out a couple of years ago that if you replace a really worn idler, you’re better off doing the whole undercarriage of a D8. New idler plus worn rollers makes it feel like the dozer is going to shake apart. Landfill brought one of their 8s to the shop. They must've lost a shoe at some point and all they had laying around was one that had less wear so the grouser was quite a bit taller. Ever drive a dozer with just one taller grouser across concrete? It'll shake your teeth out. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I'm working on a skid steer w/ some hydrostat issues and the guy was complaining of noise while traveling. The worn-out tracks vibrate the whole machine and the cab roof resonates with the vibration. Put your hand on the ceiling and it goes away. Might be hard to convince him to get new tracks when he sees the bill by the time I'm done w/ it. View Quote If I had a dollar for every time I've had to convince a customer to buy a new set of tracks, even though the current ones are 'just fine', I'd have... at least 14 dollars. |
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So ... power steering leak, have replaced all the hoses and the pump, still leaking. late 90s caddy. Replacing the rack.
nearly 30 years of use and bolts crammed into a corner where you cannot apply anything but muscle and damned if the people at the factory didn't cross-thread the bolts, it's wrench-slip and hands smash the engine or brackets hard enough to shatter bone territory. ... just posting to whinge like a cranky old woman. |
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Originally Posted By FlashMan-7k: So ... power steering leak, have replaced all the hoses and the pump, still leaking. late 90s caddy. Replacing the rack. nearly 30 years of use and bolts crammed into a corner where you cannot apply anything but muscle and damned if the people at the factory didn't cross-thread the bolts, it's wrench-slip and hands smash the engine or brackets hard enough to shatter bone territory. ... just posting to whinge like a cranky old woman. View Quote I remember my cousin working on those 90s cars..complete pains. |
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Take it easy and if it's easy take it twice
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Originally Posted By midcap: I remember my cousin working on those 90s cars..complete pains. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By FlashMan-7k: So ... power steering leak, have replaced all the hoses and the pump, still leaking. late 90s caddy. Replacing the rack. nearly 30 years of use and bolts crammed into a corner where you cannot apply anything but muscle and damned if the people at the factory didn't cross-thread the bolts, it's wrench-slip and hands smash the engine or brackets hard enough to shatter bone territory. ... just posting to whinge like a cranky old woman. I remember my cousin working on those 90s cars..complete pains. When I get the steering rack bolts loose, the next step is ... drop the rear of the engine cradle. Because, as every mechanic knows, the person who works on the product afterwards absolutely does not matter at all. Unless some evil weirdo in the factory wants to think of sick ways to make our life even harder. |
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Been working on a Taylor 300s which is a stumpy little 30k forklift. No start. Hook up inline seven to the backbone which is conveniently located by the damn AC belt. I have to zip tie the inline seven to keep it from getting sucked in. Commanded rail pressure is 14k and actual is 800 psi. I suspect fuel pump is shot but there’s active codes for the injectors. I ohm them all out. They’re good and order a fuel pump.
Get the high pressure fuel pump installed and it runs. Let it idle for 5 minutes and go to give it the beans. She revs a little and stalls out. Fml. Troubleshoot that and determine that it’s not pumping again. Remove the fuel pump and I didn’t tighten the nut on hard enough and it slipped. I got lucky it didn’t fall off. Replace it and fire it up. 30 minutes of running then I go to log data. Give it the beans and I lose my connection and there’s a ruckus. Lost the damn in-line 7 in the ac belt and she’s done exploded. Call the boss tell him. He laughs. Turn it off. Get the remnants out of the engine area and go to start it up. It’s a hard start. Then when it finally hits there’s an audible knock and white smoke. I was afraid of this. I lost an injector. I have to pack up and leave empty handed because now I have to wait on an in-line 7. Yay. |
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Originally Posted By DirtDivision: Been working on a Taylor 300s which is a stumpy little 30k forklift. No start. Hook up inline seven to the backbone which is conveniently located by the damn AC belt. I have to zip tie the inline seven to keep it from getting sucked in. Commanded rail pressure is 14k and actual is 800 psi. I suspect fuel pump is shot but there’s active codes for the injectors. I ohm them all out. They’re good and order a fuel pump. Get the high pressure fuel pump installed and it runs. Let it idle for 5 minutes and go to give it the beans. She revs a little and stalls out. Fml. Troubleshoot that and determine that it’s not pumping again. Remove the fuel pump and I didn’t tighten the nut on hard enough and it slipped. I got lucky it didn’t fall off. Replace it and fire it up. 30 minutes of running then I go to log data. Give it the beans and I lose my connection and there’s a ruckus. Lost the damn in-line 7 in the ac belt and she’s done exploded. Call the boss tell him. He laughs. Turn it off. Get the remnants out of the engine area and go to start it up. It’s a hard start. Then when it finally hits there’s an audible knock and white smoke. I was afraid of this. I lost an injector. I have to pack up and leave empty handed because now I have to wait on an in-line 7. Yay. View Quote Ugh. Feel that one in my gut. Reminds me of being just enough timing chain teeth off on a water pump replacement to drop the rear bank of valves into the pistons. Just a lousy feeling. |
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Attached File
Bolt felt funny going into the alternator. Decided to chase it from the back with my tap. Turns out there’s a heli coil in there. Neat. |
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Originally Posted By maslin02: $167 1/4” ratchet We all got $100 gift cards for being wonderful people, free money is always worth blowing. 0* engagement, something about a bearing. It’s really cool. https://i.imgur.io/M9ESZzt_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium View Quote It uses a sprag-type setup. Grabbing one is always in the back of my head but that price tag makes me leave it on the truck. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By DirtDivision: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245997/D45B190D-776B-4B7B-A2CD-0F5BE06A30BB_jpe-2929727.JPG Bolt felt funny going into the alternator. Decided to chase it from the back with my tap. Turns out there’s a heli coil in there. Neat. View Quote Usually those and taps don't get along real well. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: It uses a sprag-type setup. Grabbing one is always in the back of my head but that price tag makes me leave it on the truck. View Quote I picked up the 3/8 one to play with, it’s huge and looks like it belongs on a space ship. I don’t have room for that, but I’ll use the 1/4 for sure. I didn’t ask the price, kind of figured the $100 would cover it. Oh well, I haven’t had a tool payment in 10 years, $67 for something cool is worth it. |
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Originally Posted By maslin02: I picked up the 3/8 one to play with, it’s huge and looks like it belongs on a space ship. I don’t have room for that, but I’ll use the 1/4 for sure. I didn’t ask the price, kind of figured the $100 would cover it. Oh well, I haven’t had a tool payment in 10 years, $67 for something cool is worth it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By maslin02: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: It uses a sprag-type setup. Grabbing one is always in the back of my head but that price tag makes me leave it on the truck. I picked up the 3/8 one to play with, it’s huge and looks like it belongs on a space ship. I don’t have room for that, but I’ll use the 1/4 for sure. I didn’t ask the price, kind of figured the $100 would cover it. Oh well, I haven’t had a tool payment in 10 years, $67 for something cool is worth it. The price on the 1/4" ratchets doesn't seem to scale very well. I grabbed a long-handle flex-head and figured it would be $90. $145 worth a rape later I walk off the truck with a funny walk. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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I put my new 6 channel stereoscope on the egnein and the noise is 100% coming from the top of the driver side valvetrain right in the area of the phaser and timing chain.
it's a good scope so you can hear the very light tick in there which is normal. but this sounds odd...when I pull the cab I'll have more room to inspect everything. |
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Take it easy and if it's easy take it twice
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Originally Posted By maslin02: $167 1/4” ratchet We all got $100 gift cards for being wonderful people, free money is always worth blowing. 0* engagement, something about a bearing. It’s really cool. https://i.imgur.io/M9ESZzt_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium View Quote I hope they're better than the ones mac used to make. a sprag clutch design. those things were so nice when they were new. quickly they just wore.. they would "repair" them under warranty, but that shit never lasted. your gonna have to keep us up-to-date on if it lasts or not. |
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Originally Posted By maslin02: I’ll give it a good workout, I have a small Wurth 1/4 I use frequently, but I’m interested to see how this goes. The switching is a bit finicky. It’s a super short click one way or the other, but it also spins so freely you don’t really know if it worked. There’s a bit of slop if you put any lateral torque on it and it feels gritty. That 100% smooth glide is only straight on. He said they have a new ratchet coming out next week, it’s 100 teeth vs 88 and the head is thinner. My Matco ratchets are significantly thinner than the SnapOn’s, they don’t last nearly as long though. New guy is the thickest of them all. https://i.imgur.io/xrPE7Y5_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By maslin02: Originally Posted By AgeOne: I hope they're better than the ones mac used to make. a sprag clutch design. those things were so nice when they were new. quickly they just wore.. they would "repair" them under warranty, but that shit never lasted. your gonna have to keep us up-to-date on if it lasts or not. I’ll give it a good workout, I have a small Wurth 1/4 I use frequently, but I’m interested to see how this goes. The switching is a bit finicky. It’s a super short click one way or the other, but it also spins so freely you don’t really know if it worked. There’s a bit of slop if you put any lateral torque on it and it feels gritty. That 100% smooth glide is only straight on. He said they have a new ratchet coming out next week, it’s 100 teeth vs 88 and the head is thinner. My Matco ratchets are significantly thinner than the SnapOn’s, they don’t last nearly as long though. New guy is the thickest of them all. https://i.imgur.io/xrPE7Y5_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium I got the poor guy version. They are pretty cool when you need a tiny, tiny ratchet.
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: The price on the 1/4" ratchets doesn't seem to scale very well. I grabbed a long-handle flex-head and figured it would be $90. $145 worth a rape later I walk off the truck with a funny walk. View Quote I thought about picking those up but I look at the dozens of Snap-On ratchets I practically never use any more and decided to hold off. 99% of the time I'm picking up an air or cordless tool. |
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Originally Posted By maslin02: $167 1/4" ratchet We all got $100 gift cards for being wonderful people, free money is always worth blowing. 0* engagement, something about a bearing. It's really cool. https://i.imgur.io/M9ESZzt_d.webp?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium View Quote |
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Originally Posted By defender: I thought about picking those up but I look at the dozens of Snap-On ratchets I practically never use any more and decided to hold off. 99% of the time I'm picking up an air or cordless tool. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By defender: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: The price on the 1/4" ratchets doesn't seem to scale very well. I grabbed a long-handle flex-head and figured it would be $90. $145 worth a rape later I walk off the truck with a funny walk. I thought about picking those up but I look at the dozens of Snap-On ratchets I practically never use any more and decided to hold off. 99% of the time I'm picking up an air or cordless tool. I hate powered ratchets with a passion. They always smash your hands into something and never have the torque needed and end up being clumsy in alot of situations. I want to like them as they're a good time saver but every time I try one I hate it. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I hate powered ratchets with a passion. They always smash your hands into something and never have the torque needed and end up being clumsy in alot of situations. I want to like them as they're a good time saver but every time I try one I hate it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By defender: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: The price on the 1/4" ratchets doesn't seem to scale very well. I grabbed a long-handle flex-head and figured it would be $90. $145 worth a rape later I walk off the truck with a funny walk. I thought about picking those up but I look at the dozens of Snap-On ratchets I practically never use any more and decided to hold off. 99% of the time I'm picking up an air or cordless tool. I hate powered ratchets with a passion. They always smash your hands into something and never have the torque needed and end up being clumsy in alot of situations. I want to like them as they're a good time saver but every time I try one I hate it. The best thing I have ever bought is this little ac delco 1/4" coordless ratcher from amazon. dude...it's a game changer for real I have giant hands, like palm a basketball size hands, and that thing helps out a ton I wish I had little asian lady hands thuogh |
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Take it easy and if it's easy take it twice
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Originally Posted By midcap: The best thing I have ever bought is this little ac delco 1/4" coordless ratcher from amazon. dude...it's a game changer for real I have giant hands, like palm a basketball size hands, and that thing helps out a ton I wish I had little asian lady hands thuogh View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By defender: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: The price on the 1/4" ratchets doesn't seem to scale very well. I grabbed a long-handle flex-head and figured it would be $90. $145 worth a rape later I walk off the truck with a funny walk. I thought about picking those up but I look at the dozens of Snap-On ratchets I practically never use any more and decided to hold off. 99% of the time I'm picking up an air or cordless tool. I hate powered ratchets with a passion. They always smash your hands into something and never have the torque needed and end up being clumsy in alot of situations. I want to like them as they're a good time saver but every time I try one I hate it. The best thing I have ever bought is this little ac delco 1/4" coordless ratcher from amazon. dude...it's a game changer for real I have giant hands, like palm a basketball size hands, and that thing helps out a ton I wish I had little asian lady hands thuogh They're expensive but I've seen small impacting 1/4 and 3/8 air ratchets that I'd like to try. Since they impact they dont react against you as much as a regular one does. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: They're expensive but I've seen small impacting 1/4 and 3/8 air ratchets that I'd like to try. Since they impact they dont react against you as much as a regular one does. View Quote I like my 12v Milwaukee fuel surge impact for running small hardware in and out. |
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Sic Semper Oppai
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Originally Posted By dragoontwo: I like my 12v Milwaukee fuel surge impact for running small hardware in and out. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dragoontwo: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: They're expensive but I've seen small impacting 1/4 and 3/8 air ratchets that I'd like to try. Since they impact they dont react against you as much as a regular one does. I like my 12v Milwaukee fuel surge impact for running small hardware in and out. The "problem" w/ my job is that small fasteners are a very tiny fraction of what I encounter. Hose clamps is where I'd use a powered ratchet the most but I can usually get my 3/8 impact in there if needed. |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Originally Posted By dragoontwo: I like my 12v Milwaukee fuel surge impact for running small hardware in and out. View Quote M12 surge driver is my all day tool, set to 2, 3 if something is stubborn. I use the m12 1/4 ratchet as well but not nearly as much. I have the weird m12 “installation driver” with the 1/4 chuck set to 12 for interior work. Click the speed to 1 and lock the clutch will break anything loose that you can muscle. I try to keep the weird one clean so I don’t set it on a seat and leave a mark, the surge driver is looking pretty beat these days. |
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Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: I hate powered ratchets with a passion. They always smash your hands into something and never have the torque needed and end up being clumsy in alot of situations. I want to like them as they're a good time saver but every time I try one I hate it. View Quote My 1/4 drive m12 is my money maker. |
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