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Posted: 12/6/2022 9:31:26 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: The only thing worse than no ground guide is "autistic random hand flapping" ground guiding. Especially when the person flapping like a retarded duck gets pissed because you don't understand what the bell they're trying to get you to do. |
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Posted: 12/6/2022 4:53:09 PM EDT
[#2]
Anyone have any insight on a 2018 Ram 2500 Abs hydraulic unit and module intermittent ground fault? Tsb and trouble tree point at replacing both, no stock no eta without dropping the truck at the dealer and waiting. We have one truck that has been in the dealer for this issue 6 months, and a second one just happened.
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Posted: 12/6/2022 6:18:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: prossound]
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aspp: Anyone have any insight on a 2018 Ram 2500 Abs hydraulic unit and module intermittent ground fault? Tsb and trouble tree point at replacing both, no stock no eta without dropping the truck at the dealer and waiting. We have one truck that has been in the dealer for this issue 6 months, and a second one just happened. My 18 Ram has had the hydraulic unit replaced twice in 38k miles. The second one was the last week of September. Might want to light a fire under someone’s butt. They are out there for the dealership |
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Posted: 12/6/2022 9:31:09 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By prossound: My 18 Ram has had the hydraulic unit replaced twice in 38k miles. The second one was the last week of September. Might want to light a fire under someone's butt. They are out there for the dealership I have a call into a FMCA rep, see if we can factory direct parts for both trucks. |
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Posted: 12/7/2022 12:10:38 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aspp: Earliest any dealership within 4hrs drive time can get it in is the 2ed of Jan, cannot order parts until they have the truck in the shop, next best is the 16th of Jan, same deal with parts. The one sitting at the dealer said we are #229 in line to get the hydraulic unit and 10xxsomething for the module. Only 2 of the dealerships said they would order the parts for me to install in our shop, but no eta and their service department will take priority. I have a call into a FMCA rep, see if we can factory direct parts for both trucks. @Aspp Join the ram forum and pm user ramcares. They will escalate your case. I did that to get my second one covered 1 week out of warranty and it was repaired in 2 days |
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Posted: 12/8/2022 12:43:39 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By prossound: @Aspp Join the ram forum and pm user ramcares. They will escalate your case. I did that to get my second one covered 1 week out of warranty and it was repaired in 2 days I have a contact with Ram/FCMA corporate that is diving into it all for me now, if he can't straighten things out a little I'll hit up ramcares. This guy has gotten me motors under warranty when the dealers have not been able order them, so I'm hopeful. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 12/8/2022 1:57:28 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Don't have all data access. Really, after double checking the fuses and then replacing the switch, mom had to go back home. I have to stay home and watch the sick boy again tomorrow, or I would've swapped cars and done some more digging tomorrow at work. ETA: I'm assuming that the brake switch is just a normally open switch that closes when the pedal is depressed and the plunger moves out. I'm also assuming, since I have no schematics, that I could feasibly use a jumper wire to close the circuit manually. However, there are 4 wires into the switch, so maybe not? |
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Posted: 12/10/2022 6:46:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TrashWrencher]
[#8]
No pictures because I'm at home, but our 836K's belly pan valve bodies have a different kind of hydraulic line connection than our H. It's almost like a truck airline press in fitting, but not quite. Last time I took one off (blown line) buggered the hell out of the hose fitting using some pliers. What is the correct tool to use?
Edit: On my mom's hyudai. I replaced the switch, and nothing happened. So..... I assumed that all 3 brake lights wouldn't go out at the same time. Guess what? It was all 3 lights that were just burnt out. Chances are, they went out one at a time, but they didn't notice until the other week when someone jumped out of their car at a light and told my mom none of her lights were working. 
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Posted: 12/10/2022 7:21:34 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: No pictures because I'm at home, but our 836K's belly pan valve bodies have a different kind of hydraulic line connection than our H. It's almost like a truck airline press in fitting, but not quite. Last time I took one off (blown line) buggered the hell out of the hose fitting using some pliers. What is the correct tool to use? Edit: On my mom's hyudai. I replaced the switch, and nothing happened. So..... I assumed that all 3 brake lights wouldn't go out at the same time. Guess what? It was all 3 lights that were just burnt out. Chances are, they went out one at a time, but they didn't notice until the other week when someone jumped out of their car at a light and told my mom none of her lights were working. Wasn't my post about asking if the lights were any good? Would this work? I've never had to mess with that valve or the lines. 
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Posted: 12/10/2022 7:59:10 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Wasn't my post about asking if the lights were any good? Would this work? I've never had to mess with that valve or the lines. https://www.freedomracing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/4/2/42400-w-1920x1440.jpg Yep. Man, what’re the chances 3 lights are out at once? Link to those tools? |
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Posted: 12/10/2022 8:06:40 PM EDT
[#11]
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Posted: 12/10/2022 9:15:15 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/5-pc-air-line-disconnect-set Thanks man. I’ll try to find some locally and send my runner. |
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Posted: 12/10/2022 9:32:55 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Thanks man. I’ll try to find some locally and send my runner. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/5-pc-air-line-disconnect-set Thanks man. I’ll try to find some locally and send my runner. Most parts houses that cater to tractor and trailers should have them. |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 10:52:39 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aspp: Thanks for the heads up on ramcares. I'm adding that to my list of "use in case of emergency" contacts. I have a contact with Ram/FCMA corporate that is diving into it all for me now, if he can't straighten things out a little I'll hit up ramcares. This guy has gotten me motors under warranty when the dealers have not been able order them, so I'm hopeful. Cat D6N PER prefix, 3 now have almost permanent derate issues in the heat (fire line work), one is at a Dealer I trust, one is at the dealer I had issues with, 3rd is in one of my shops with a good heavy equipment mechanic, for a second time. Everyone is chasing different ideas out. Lucky me, it rained cats and dogs this weekend or I would be in a tight spot with 3 cats out of commission. |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 10:57:15 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aspp: @Midcap 8L8Z*19E616*C should be the part you need. YH1881 is the Motorcraft pn if you want to buy it off of rockauto. It's called a blend air motor, and I'm not sure if you can swap this one without pulling the dash. I don't work on 1/2 tons hardly at all. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aspp: Originally Posted By midcap: I got a query for you Ford bros My Truck 2011 F 150 with manual temp control only blows at your feet. so I feel the Air Distribution Door Actuator Base Part Number: 19E616 is bad Do you have an actual part number so I can snaggle one and replace it? 8L8Z*19E616*C should be the part you need. YH1881 is the Motorcraft pn if you want to buy it off of rockauto. It's called a blend air motor, and I'm not sure if you can swap this one without pulling the dash. I don't work on 1/2 tons hardly at all. thanks brother....I picked it up and installed...cold air again out the dash!!! |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 11:00:08 AM EDT
[#16]
2011 F 250 with 6.2 v8, 200,000 miles
started wouldn't turn over, swapped relays under hood, still nothing. moved to nuetral to start still nothing. Before I could get my test light to see if the solenoid was getting power it cranked up and have been starting ever since connections are tight and zero corrosion. You guys think the bendix on the started just has a bad spot and get's on it everyone once in a while and won't start? |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 12:25:55 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By midcap: 2011 F 250 with 6.2 v8, 200,000 miles started wouldn't turn over, swapped relays under hood, still nothing. moved to nuetral to start still nothing. Before I could get my test light to see if the solenoid was getting power it cranked up and have been starting ever since connections are tight and zero corrosion. You guys think the bendix on the started just has a bad spot and get's on it everyone once in a while and won't start? A seemingly tight and corrosion-free connection can have some corrosion under the nut that you can't see. Loosening and retightening the nut can break this and clean it up. |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 12:30:03 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Most parts houses that cater to tractor and trailers should have them. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/5-pc-air-line-disconnect-set Thanks man. I’ll try to find some locally and send my runner. Most parts houses that cater to tractor and trailers should have them. Got them ordered at Oreillys. They’ll have them at noon. |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 12:48:47 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Got them ordered at Oreillys. They’ll have them at noon. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/5-pc-air-line-disconnect-set Thanks man. I’ll try to find some locally and send my runner. Most parts houses that cater to tractor and trailers should have them. Got them ordered at Oreillys. They’ll have them at noon. 
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Posted: 12/12/2022 1:35:55 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/5-pc-air-line-disconnect-set Thanks man. I’ll try to find some locally and send my runner. Most parts houses that cater to tractor and trailers should have them. Got them ordered at Oreillys. They’ll have them at noon. FWIW, I love this place. I suck at my job (13.5 years to go) and y’all help me all the time! |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 2:24:31 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By midcap: thanks brother....I picked it up and installed...cold air again out the dash!!! |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 2:24:51 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: FWIW, I love this place. I suck at my job (13.5 years to go) and y'all help me all the time! |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 3:02:49 PM EDT
[Last Edit: midcap]
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: A seemingly tight and corrosion-free connection can have some corrosion under the nut that you can't see. Loosening and retightening the nut can break this and clean it up. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: 2011 F 250 with 6.2 v8, 200,000 miles started wouldn't turn over, swapped relays under hood, still nothing. moved to nuetral to start still nothing. Before I could get my test light to see if the solenoid was getting power it cranked up and have been starting ever since connections are tight and zero corrosion. You guys think the bendix on the started just has a bad spot and get's on it everyone once in a while and won't start? A seemingly tight and corrosion-free connection can have some corrosion under the nut that you can't see. Loosening and retightening the nut can break this and clean it up. I am gonna go ahead and do that...see what happens....I am maybe thinking that you are right, because now that I think about it, kinda seems maybe not a good connection. I almsot thought it was a bad ground at first. |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 4:24:33 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: FWIW, I love this place. I suck at my job (13.5 years to go) and y’all help me all the time! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/5-pc-air-line-disconnect-set Thanks man. I’ll try to find some locally and send my runner. Most parts houses that cater to tractor and trailers should have them. Got them ordered at Oreillys. They’ll have them at noon. FWIW, I love this place. I suck at my job (13.5 years to go) and y’all help me all the time! Did they do the trick? FYI...I suck at my job too. Fake it til you make it. 
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Posted: 12/12/2022 4:30:01 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Did they do the trick? FYI...I suck at my job too. Fake it til you make it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/5-pc-air-line-disconnect-set Thanks man. I’ll try to find some locally and send my runner. Most parts houses that cater to tractor and trailers should have them. Got them ordered at Oreillys. They’ll have them at noon. FWIW, I love this place. I suck at my job (13.5 years to go) and y’all help me all the time! Did they do the trick? FYI...I suck at my job too. Fake it til you make it. I won't know until tomorrow sometime. Son had an fever last night and school requires 24 hours without, so I'm hanging out with him on my sick time. Except, if he goes to school tomorrow, I won't use any sick time because I still can work 44 hours starting tomorrow. |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 4:47:30 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By midcap: I am gonna go ahead and do that...see what happens....I am maybe thinking that you are right, because now that I think about it, kinda seems maybe not a good connection. I almsot thought it was a bad ground at first. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: 2011 F 250 with 6.2 v8, 200,000 miles started wouldn't turn over, swapped relays under hood, still nothing. moved to nuetral to start still nothing. Before I could get my test light to see if the solenoid was getting power it cranked up and have been starting ever since connections are tight and zero corrosion. You guys think the bendix on the started just has a bad spot and get's on it everyone once in a while and won't start? A seemingly tight and corrosion-free connection can have some corrosion under the nut that you can't see. Loosening and retightening the nut can break this and clean it up. I am gonna go ahead and do that...see what happens....I am maybe thinking that you are right, because now that I think about it, kinda seems maybe not a good connection. I almsot thought it was a bad ground at first. Doesn't take much green schmoo to slow or stop the angry pixies on a high amperage circuit. |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 4:52:09 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Doesn't take much green schmoo to slow or stop the angry pixies on a high amperage circuit. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: 2011 F 250 with 6.2 v8, 200,000 miles started wouldn't turn over, swapped relays under hood, still nothing. moved to nuetral to start still nothing. Before I could get my test light to see if the solenoid was getting power it cranked up and have been starting ever since connections are tight and zero corrosion. You guys think the bendix on the started just has a bad spot and get's on it everyone once in a while and won't start? A seemingly tight and corrosion-free connection can have some corrosion under the nut that you can't see. Loosening and retightening the nut can break this and clean it up. I am gonna go ahead and do that...see what happens....I am maybe thinking that you are right, because now that I think about it, kinda seems maybe not a good connection. I almsot thought it was a bad ground at first. Doesn't take much green schmoo to slow or stop the angry pixies on a high amperage circuit. Or black schmoo  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 5:07:23 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Or black schmoo https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/258113/FB2B139A-CC1B-4A07-A6CF-EA98BFC6BC70_jpe-2633019.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: 2011 F 250 with 6.2 v8, 200,000 miles started wouldn't turn over, swapped relays under hood, still nothing. moved to nuetral to start still nothing. Before I could get my test light to see if the solenoid was getting power it cranked up and have been starting ever since connections are tight and zero corrosion. You guys think the bendix on the started just has a bad spot and get's on it everyone once in a while and won't start? A seemingly tight and corrosion-free connection can have some corrosion under the nut that you can't see. Loosening and retightening the nut can break this and clean it up. I am gonna go ahead and do that...see what happens....I am maybe thinking that you are right, because now that I think about it, kinda seems maybe not a good connection. I almsot thought it was a bad ground at first. Doesn't take much green schmoo to slow or stop the angry pixies on a high amperage circuit. Or black schmoo https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/258113/FB2B139A-CC1B-4A07-A6CF-EA98BFC6BC70_jpe-2633019.JPG Any kind of schmoo really. |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 5:32:28 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Did they do the trick? FYI...I suck at my job too. Fake it til you make it. Click it till you brick it is our programming moto |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 5:54:07 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Doesn't take much green schmoo to slow or stop the angry pixies on a high amperage circuit. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: 2011 F 250 with 6.2 v8, 200,000 miles started wouldn't turn over, swapped relays under hood, still nothing. moved to nuetral to start still nothing. Before I could get my test light to see if the solenoid was getting power it cranked up and have been starting ever since connections are tight and zero corrosion. You guys think the bendix on the started just has a bad spot and get's on it everyone once in a while and won't start? A seemingly tight and corrosion-free connection can have some corrosion under the nut that you can't see. Loosening and retightening the nut can break this and clean it up. I am gonna go ahead and do that...see what happens....I am maybe thinking that you are right, because now that I think about it, kinda seems maybe not a good connection. I almsot thought it was a bad ground at first. Doesn't take much green schmoo to slow or stop the angry pixies on a high amperage circuit. Was kinda nasty and the green shit was caked on |
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Posted: 12/12/2022 6:29:04 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By midcap: Was kinda nasty and the green shit was caked on Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: 2011 F 250 with 6.2 v8, 200,000 miles started wouldn't turn over, swapped relays under hood, still nothing. moved to nuetral to start still nothing. Before I could get my test light to see if the solenoid was getting power it cranked up and have been starting ever since connections are tight and zero corrosion. You guys think the bendix on the started just has a bad spot and get's on it everyone once in a while and won't start? A seemingly tight and corrosion-free connection can have some corrosion under the nut that you can't see. Loosening and retightening the nut can break this and clean it up. I am gonna go ahead and do that...see what happens....I am maybe thinking that you are right, because now that I think about it, kinda seems maybe not a good connection. I almsot thought it was a bad ground at first. Doesn't take much green schmoo to slow or stop the angry pixies on a high amperage circuit. Was kinda nasty and the green shit was caked on 
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Posted: 12/13/2022 1:50:35 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By midcap: Was kinda nasty and the green shit was caked on  If i forget my gloves and get that suff on me the shit make me itch for days and leaves a wierd metal taste in my mouth. Weird allergies for 100 Alex. |
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Posted: 12/13/2022 9:29:13 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/6578B03F-C6AB-44D2-9829-8851B7318BE5-478.gif Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: 2011 F 250 with 6.2 v8, 200,000 miles started wouldn't turn over, swapped relays under hood, still nothing. moved to nuetral to start still nothing. Before I could get my test light to see if the solenoid was getting power it cranked up and have been starting ever since connections are tight and zero corrosion. You guys think the bendix on the started just has a bad spot and get's on it everyone once in a while and won't start? A seemingly tight and corrosion-free connection can have some corrosion under the nut that you can't see. Loosening and retightening the nut can break this and clean it up. I am gonna go ahead and do that...see what happens....I am maybe thinking that you are right, because now that I think about it, kinda seems maybe not a good connection. I almsot thought it was a bad ground at first. Doesn't take much green schmoo to slow or stop the angry pixies on a high amperage circuit. Was kinda nasty and the green shit was caked on /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/6578B03F-C6AB-44D2-9829-8851B7318BE5-478.gif yeah copper and such, plus the truck spends it's life on the island majority of its life...plenty salt air |
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Posted: 12/13/2022 9:31:12 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aspp: If i forget my gloves and get that suff on me the shit make me itch for days and leaves a wierd metal taste in my mouth. Weird allergies for 100 Alex. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aspp: Originally Posted By midcap: Was kinda nasty and the green shit was caked on If i forget my gloves and get that suff on me the shit make me itch for days and leaves a wierd metal taste in my mouth. Weird allergies for 100 Alex. lol damn man that's wild. You want to hear somthing crazy about alergies. So in the boat building world when it comes to fiberglass/kevlar/carbon layups...you have two choices of resin. Styrene monomer based and epoxy based. Well somthing crazy happens to people who work primarily in epoxy especially those doing all the sanding....sometiems they will develop an alergy to the epoxy so bad, they pretty much have to retire from working on epoxy boats the alergy is so bad. |
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Posted: 12/13/2022 12:35:57 PM EDT
[#35]
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Posted: 12/13/2022 2:07:15 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Operator states fuck the guys who check out equipment at 0530. Click To View Spoiler Oh hell the fuck no! 
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Posted: 12/13/2022 2:08:16 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By midcap: lol damn man that's wild. You want to hear somthing crazy about alergies. So in the boat building world when it comes to fiberglass/kevlar/carbon layups...you have two choices of resin. Styrene monomer based and epoxy based. Well somthing crazy happens to people who work primarily in epoxy especially those doing all the sanding....sometiems they will develop an alergy to the epoxy so bad, they pretty much have to retire from working on epoxy boats the alergy is so bad. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By Aspp: Originally Posted By midcap: Was kinda nasty and the green shit was caked on If i forget my gloves and get that suff on me the shit make me itch for days and leaves a wierd metal taste in my mouth. Weird allergies for 100 Alex. lol damn man that's wild. You want to hear somthing crazy about alergies. So in the boat building world when it comes to fiberglass/kevlar/carbon layups...you have two choices of resin. Styrene monomer based and epoxy based. Well somthing crazy happens to people who work primarily in epoxy especially those doing all the sanding....sometiems they will develop an alergy to the epoxy so bad, they pretty much have to retire from working on epoxy boats the alergy is so bad. Funny allergy story...I'm allergic to an allergy medication.
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Posted: 12/13/2022 5:58:41 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Funny allergy story...I'm allergic to an allergy medication. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By midcap: Originally Posted By Aspp: Originally Posted By midcap: Was kinda nasty and the green shit was caked on If i forget my gloves and get that suff on me the shit make me itch for days and leaves a wierd metal taste in my mouth. Weird allergies for 100 Alex. lol damn man that's wild. You want to hear somthing crazy about alergies. So in the boat building world when it comes to fiberglass/kevlar/carbon layups...you have two choices of resin. Styrene monomer based and epoxy based. Well somthing crazy happens to people who work primarily in epoxy especially those doing all the sanding....sometiems they will develop an alergy to the epoxy so bad, they pretty much have to retire from working on epoxy boats the alergy is so bad. Funny allergy story...I'm allergic to an allergy medication. LoL that’s like dividing by zero |
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Posted: 12/13/2022 5:59:05 PM EDT
[#39]
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Posted: 12/13/2022 6:40:26 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Operator states fuck the guys who check out equipment at 0530. Click To View Spoiler Could use some more cable and maybe a mattress wrapped up in there but otherwise looks about right. |
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Posted: 12/13/2022 7:03:01 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By newguy2k3: Could use some more cable and maybe a mattress wrapped up in there but otherwise looks about right. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By newguy2k3: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Operator states fuck the guys who check out equipment at 0530. Click To View Spoiler Could use some more cable and maybe a mattress wrapped up in there but otherwise looks about right.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/14/2022 10:46:55 AM EDT
[#42]
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Posted: 12/14/2022 11:24:40 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Surprised monster! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/258113/image_jpg-2634800.JPG Every time one comes in, that's all I see when walking by.
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Posted: 12/14/2022 12:17:14 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Every time one comes in, that's all I see when walking by. Here’s what I replace.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/14/2022 12:58:39 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Here’s what I replace. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/258113/image_jpg-2634862.JPG Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Every time one comes in, that's all I see when walking by. Here’s what I replace. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/258113/image_jpg-2634862.JPG I've seen several come in with jacked up or missing striker bars but they never want us to replace them. |
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Posted: 12/14/2022 1:27:08 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: I've seen several come in with jacked up or missing striker bars but they never want us to replace them. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SecretSquirell: Originally Posted By TrashWrencher: Originally Posted By SecretSquirell: Every time one comes in, that's all I see when walking by. Here’s what I replace. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/258113/image_jpg-2634862.JPG I've seen several come in with jacked up or missing striker bars but they never want us to replace them. Our boss man wants em replaced. Not necessarily when it first comes off, but when the compactor comes in for a bigger service or unrelated repair. We’re now looking at putting a dewalt 20v sawzall in the cab to encourage the operator to cut the tires off before things break. |
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Posted: 12/14/2022 3:08:24 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TrashWrencher: Our boss man wants em replaced. Not necessarily when it first comes off, but when the compactor comes in for a bigger service or unrelated repair. We’re now looking at putting a dewalt 20v sawzall in the cab to encourage the operator to cut the tires off before things break. Let me know how that works out, trying to get an operator to do anything besides climbing in the cab and sitting on their ass. They never replace them around here. As long as there’s still a step to get to the fuel cap, when they’re gone they’re gone. |
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Posted: 12/15/2022 3:54:02 PM EDT
[#48]
I know very little about tpms
I can see the psi of the tires on FORScan lite But when I go to relearn by pressing the hazards and letting air out it doesn’t work  Attached FileDo I need to reset the BCM on FORScan? |
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Posted: 12/15/2022 6:34:18 PM EDT
[#49]
Great deal on a Fluke DVOM, it's the little one, great for a backup or to throw in the truck.
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Posted: 12/15/2022 7:18:29 PM EDT
[#50]
Alright cat boys. It’s your time to shine again. I have a kalmar forklift with a c6 in it. Customer complaint of oil leaks. Verify the banjo fitting below the injection pump just underneath the fuel water seperator was bad. I fixed that with copper orings.
Operator said he has some leaking hoses so we addressed those. While piddle farting around I see an oil leaks coming from the side of the engine with the turbo on it. I couldn’t make out where it was coming from so I took the charge air tube off and oil poured out of the tube. Remove the snail portion of the turbo and it has clearly been ejecting oil. Impeller does a little up down wobble. Bad Nagasaki noisy boi. Get to looking and the oil tube from the block is also leaking. It has a little retainer clip on it. Is there an oring in there? Take pics of the data plate and give it to parts. Parts cannot find a turbo from the data plate itself. Is there a tag on the turbo? Are all c6 turbos the same? |
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