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Posted: 5/9/2017 5:12:37 PM EDT
I have warped every set of factory front rotors on every car I have ever owned. I drive fast and brake hard. I will not be changing my driving style. My 2013 Honda Pilot is, hopefully, the last vehicle I will purchase. I once again warped the rotors, had them turned and then warped them again. I need front rotors and pads that will hold up to the heavy braking of a mid-sized SUV. Here are a couple I am looking at.
EBC Ultimax Slotted Rotors EBC Sport Rotors Also looking at Red Stuff or Green Stuff pads. Some other pad maybe? My concern is that these are more for a racing application and they need to be heated up to perform properly. Am I correct in that thinking? Will these last? Anything better to look at? As always, thanks for the help. |
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[#1]
If you put an aggressive pad on there you're just gonna accelerate wear. If you won't change your driving style, you'll probably just keep having to put brakes on your cars no matter what you drive.
Basically that Pilot isn't a race car and the stock braking system wasn't designed for your intended use. I usually recommend people get something like a Brembo or Mountain rotor with Akebono ceramic pad as they last very long. But that's basically what's OE for every Asian manufacturer. |
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[#2]
EBC makes great rotors that last a.long time, the coating really keeps the rust away. The drilled rotors are just for show as modern pads don't gas like they used to, slotted work fine but are noisy when you stop hard.
I installed EBC slotted rotors with Akebono pro-act pads at all 4 corners on my commuter car (08 Nissan Altima Coupe), as stated above they last a long time, now remember the car has a single speed CVT transmission & is driven mostly highway miles, I'm going on 7 years & 100k on the pads & rotors , great stuff! |
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[#3]
What about an aggressive pad with a rotor built to handle it?
Edit: Meant to quote Jbecker72 |
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[#4]
Quoted:
EBC makes great rotors that last a.long time, the coating really keeps the rust away. The drilled rotors are just for show as modern pads don't gas like they used to, slotted work fine but are noisy when you stop hard. View Quote |
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[#5]
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[#6]
Quoted:
What about an aggressive pad with a rotor built to handle it? Edit: Meant to quote Jbecker72 View Quote My buddy had a VW Golf with a Porsche big brake kit. It used 911 discs and calipers and an aggressive pad. Stopped like a mofo. Ate rotors in 10k miles too. |
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[#7]
Hmm, so maybe a high wearing rotor with pads that are not too aggressive. Or does that kind of defeat the purpose of a high wear/performance caliper?
I have tried to change my driving style in the past. Always reverted back to my current state of driving. Just need a rotor that can keep up with me. |
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[#8]
I have the EBC slotted rotors and the green pads on my 2011 Chevy Avalanche, changed them late last fall and they have been fantastic. No noise, great braking, some dust, but not too bad.
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[#9]
OP, do you live your life a quarter mile at a time?
JK, but seriously you can always tell how good a driver is by how long their brakes lasts. |
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[#10]
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[#11]
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[#12]
My wife is a hard on her brakes too. She actually scares the shit out of me approaching a stop sign. She has yet to warp her 2013 Pilot rotors. As much as you don't want to change your driving style, you really might want to reconsider it. Beating on a car like that is totally unnecessary and fucked up. They're not designed to be driven that way, or they wouldn't warp. Honda rotors are probably one of the best ones made for that car. Wife's car has 96,000 miles on the original brakes. I've got new pads from Honda in the shop waiting on time to install them and get the rotors turned.
I tried Power Stops on my son's car. They warped like cheap Advance Rotors hitting a water puddle. |
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[#13]
I had the same exact problem with a heavy car in a hot Texas environment - heavy traffic. I could trash standard rotors in no time. What I had was something called brake judder and I suspect you do to.
I have tried several rotor and brake combos. The best rotors I found if you are having problems are the EBC-Slotted rotors. I however am no fan of there pads. I much prefer HAWK HPS pads. Hawk pads are some of the very best if you like a lot of grip but they do generate a lot of dust. When installing rotors, make darn certain the hub is free and clear of rust and crud. I use sandpaper to clean it. |
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[#14]
Quoted:
I had the same exact problem with a heavy car in a hot Texas environment - heavy traffic. I could trash standard rotors in no time. What I had was something called brake judder and I suspect you do to. I have tried several rotor and brake combos. The best rotors I found if you are having problems are the EBC-Slotted rotors. I however am no fan of there pads. I much prefer HAWK HPS pads. Hawk pads are some of the very best if you like a lot of grip but they do generate a lot of dust. When installing rotors, make darn certain the hub is free and clear of rust and crud. I use sandpaper to clean it. View Quote And yes, it is messed up that I go through rotors the way I do. It isn't all my fault. The area I live in has a lot of hills and a lot of quick go, quick stop traffic. At least that's my excuse. |
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[#15]
I don't think I'm that hard on my FJ Cruiser's brakes but it seems like I can't escape brake judder either. After installing the current set of OEM pads & rotors I was careful to go easy on them to avoid getting brake judder and it seemed to work for a while but now I have it again. I drive a in a fair amount of stop & go traffic. I may have to look into the slotted rotors for my next brake job. Other than the reoccurring brake judder I have no other brake issues.
ETA: do you recommend the slotted rotors or the slotted & dimpled rotors? |
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[#16]
I have no experience with the cross drilled but from a lot of online research those are best for special applications?
I went with the slotted for max cooling and it does indeed seem to work. The larger issue is that a great many OEMs from Japan to the US auto makers actually are buying rotor castings from china and that seems to be the big problem. The EBC are cast in the UK/USA and they are using better metal as well as better procedures in the casting cycle. The result is a much better rotor to begin with. And that pains me to say it as I like to do the Brit bash thing too. |
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[#17]
Looks like EBC Slotted rotors and Green Stuff pads are the way to go. Looked into Hawk but they are not made for the Pilot.
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[#18]
Based on my own experience, I think they are a great combo and would be hard to beat without spending a lot more. Do it!
I priced them out various ways, but in the end went with Amazon Prime. |
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[#19]
I went the other way.
instead of finding rotors and pads that might not warp, I bought lifetime rotors from oriely's. They are a few bucks more than the 1 year or 3 year and they don't question warpage. I call them to order a set in. I take my old ones off and swap them when they come in. I know I won't be able to keep a set more than a year or two and don't bother to take the risk on cheap china junk and paying a preimum for a name that has no real warranty. |
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[#20]
Bought the rotors and pads last night. Should arrive in a couple weeks. I will update when they arrive if anyone is interested.
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[#21]
Op what do you mean by driving style?
Are you the guy that races up to the back of stopped cars or stop signs? Or are you the guy wanted to buy a performance car but got kicked in the balls by that offensive word called "practicality"? not being a jerk just trying to figure out what you mean. If you are wearing through front brakes on your Pilot either you are over driving the car or have installed cheap parts of potentially installed them wrong (dragging caliper). |
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[#22]
Quoted:
Op what do you mean by driving style? Are you the guy that races up to the back of stopped cars or stop signs? Or are you the guy wanted to buy a performance car but got kicked in the balls by that offensive word called "practicality"? not being a jerk just trying to figure out what you mean. If you are wearing through front brakes on your Pilot either you are over driving the car or have installed cheap parts of potentially installed them wrong (dragging caliper). View Quote I may have made myself out to be some maniac on the road. I do tend to drive fast though. Mostly I am defensive but will go on the offense when needed. There are a lot of hills in my area. A lot of downhill driving. Most people I get stuck behind (not tailgating) on hills are riding their brakes all the way down. Lots of stop and go traffic as well. I know the Pilot is not a race car and I do not treat it as such. I don't know what else to say. I'm hard on brakes. |
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[#23]
Quoted:
Nope. None of those. No tailgating and no racing up to the back of people. The original rotors (warped) were turned by Honda when new pads were installed. They did not last much longer after that and that is what is on the Pilot now. I may have made myself out to be some maniac on the road. I do tend to drive fast though. Mostly I am defensive but will go on the offense when needed. There are a lot of hills in my area. A lot of downhill driving. Most people I get stuck behind (not tailgating) on hills are riding their brakes all the way down. Lots of stop and go traffic as well. I know the Pilot is not a race car and I do not treat it as such. I don't know what else to say. I'm hard on brakes. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Op what do you mean by driving style? Are you the guy that races up to the back of stopped cars or stop signs? Or are you the guy wanted to buy a performance car but got kicked in the balls by that offensive word called "practicality"? not being a jerk just trying to figure out what you mean. If you are wearing through front brakes on your Pilot either you are over driving the car or have installed cheap parts of potentially installed them wrong (dragging caliper). I may have made myself out to be some maniac on the road. I do tend to drive fast though. Mostly I am defensive but will go on the offense when needed. There are a lot of hills in my area. A lot of downhill driving. Most people I get stuck behind (not tailgating) on hills are riding their brakes all the way down. Lots of stop and go traffic as well. I know the Pilot is not a race car and I do not treat it as such. I don't know what else to say. I'm hard on brakes. |
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[#24]
Quoted:
You shouldn't feel guilty. I really believe it's got a lot to do with poor quality steel coming out of China. It's like that with just about any car parts these days. Sure the stuff from Autozone or Advance or Pep Boys lines is from China or Mexico, that's a given. You really have to look hard to find quality car parts made in the USA or other reputable manufacturing countries. Hell, even Timken makes their stuff in China now. View Quote Edit: I am probably remembering that wrong as I can't find anything. I could have sworn it was Centric and I read it on one of the big auto mags like Motor Trend. Now it is bugging the shit out of me. |
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[#25]
O.K., it was a lawsuit against Dura international for lightweight rotors. Duralast maybe? Midas stopped selling their rotors. This was an article from around 2009.
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[#26]
Duralast is the AutoZone house brand. I've come to find out pretty much any aftermarket rotor will suck ass and warp. Exceptions would be those installed by the factory such as Brembo, etc. I will give it to you, hills will play hell on brakes. I've owned Hondas since our Odyssey we bought back in '04. Never have seen a Honda rotor that would warp. The Pilots are about $105 each online from Honda parts places. Honestly, I would go back that route, but you have my interest peaked now that you have bought the aftermarket ones. Keep us updated as to how they hold up.
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[#27]
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[#28]
Quoted:
Nope. None of those. No tailgating and no racing up to the back of people. The original rotors (warped) were turned by Honda when new pads were installed. They did not last much longer after that and that is what is on the Pilot now. I may have made myself out to be some maniac on the road. I do tend to drive fast though. Mostly I am defensive but will go on the offense when needed. There are a lot of hills in my area. A lot of downhill driving. Most people I get stuck behind (not tailgating) on hills are riding their brakes all the way down. Lots of stop and go traffic as well. I know the Pilot is not a race car and I do not treat it as such. I don't know what else to say. I'm hard on brakes. View Quote |
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[#29]
Just get a standard ceramic pad, you do not want a racy or autocross pad on a Pilot. Depending on the pad, accelerated wear, screeching noise, and tons of dust are all you'll get. "Feel" is not that different, especially at street temps. The "streetable" HP+ I put on the Lotus are terrible unless you're literally just using them to get to the track and back. I remember not really liking the HPS on my Civic either. No more.
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[#30]
I had Hawk HPS and Power Slot rotors on my 1995 Mustang GT that was upgraded to Cobra brakes. Loved the combination. Stopped great, low to no dust and quiet as a church mouse.
Car got totaled, put them on my sons car. That car got totaled, and I put them on his current '95 GT. First time ever I've heard of brakes outliving 2 cars and still in great shape on a 3rd. I tried Power Stop brand on my other boys car and they warped all to hell and back in less than 6 months. Right now he's running Bosch from O'Rielly's on the front and Advance Autos on the rear. |
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[#31]
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[#32]
Quoted:
Just get a standard ceramic pad, you do not want a racy or autocross pad on a Pilot. Depending on the pad, accelerated wear, screeching noise, and tons of dust are all you'll get. "Feel" is not that different, especially at street temps. The "streetable" HP+ I put on the Lotus are terrible unless you're literally just using them to get to the track and back. I remember not really liking the HPS on my Civic either. No more. View Quote |
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[#33]
Quoted:
Duralast is the AutoZone house brand. I've come to find out pretty much any aftermarket rotor will suck ass and warp. Exceptions would be those installed by the factory such as Brembo, etc. I will give it to you, hills will play hell on brakes. I've owned Hondas since our Odyssey we bought back in '04. Never have seen a Honda rotor that would warp. The Pilots are about $105 each online from Honda parts places. Honestly, I would go back that route, but you have my interest peaked now that you have bought the aftermarket ones. Keep us updated as to how they hold up. View Quote |
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[#34]
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[#35]
Rotors and pads are in. Hop to get them on Monday when I have time. If there is any interest I can post pics and a little review.
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[#37]
Yes, please follow up since I'm also about to do brakes on my wife's Pilot. I went OEM since my originals now have 97,000 miles on them.
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[#38]
Since you refuse to change your driving style, just budget for regular brake replacements.
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[#39]
Quoted:
Please do and follow the break in instructions too View Quote Hmm, should have stated read the EBC break in procedure. |
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[#40]
Rotors and pads are on. Everything went on easy. I managed to remember to take one pic. And a shitty one at that. I'll post it up tomorrow if you want to see it. Easy drivin' for the next 200 miles and then following the EBC bedding procedure.
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[#41]
Quoted:
Since you refuse to change your driving style, just budget for regular brake replacements. View Quote Or get a vehicle that was made for your driving style. Station wagons weren't designed to be driven like that. If you try hard enough, you can warp even the best rotors, including the ones with all the little holes and grooves and cryo treatments and gimmicks. |
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[#42]
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[#43]
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[#44]
Yep that looks right, haven't used the greens before. They sound like they should be better on a lighter daily driver.
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[#45]
Honda tech here.
If you have an issue with brake rotor warpage you need to replace/ resurface both axles. These brakes are linked hydro. Diagonally. So your r/f and l/r are on the same fluid circuit. The rear rotors do not wear right and become unparallel gen cause the front rotors to warped because of this. Every customer we have that just wants the fronts resurfaced because they feel it in the steering wheel is back in a month with the fronts warped again. If we machine both axles they last much longer. |
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[#46]
Bed the brakes in tonight. I am not sure if I do the EBC bedding procedure once or twice. The instructions in the pad box stated once and the website stated twice. I put in an email to EBC for clarification. Probably shouldn't be a big deal but I want this set done right. I will say this, these pads better improve with mileage because so far i'm not impressed.
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[#48]
I finally did the wife's Pilot this past Saturday. I've never spent all day doing a brake job. But this one dragged out for some reason.
Started at 10am. Pulled rotors went to auto parts store to get them turned. first store, machine broke. Second store tried giving me shit not wanting to do them, but they did. Returned home around 2:30. Did the rears and went to the front. Apparently there are two different style calipers used, and going to all the Honda parts websites, no way to tell using the VIN. Of course I purchased the wrong ones. So off to Auto Zone for aftermarket. Got everything installed and bedded after bleeding and cycling new fluid through the system. But come to find out, my rears were warped slightly. Guy had to turn them twice and they are at the limit. Finished up around 8 pm. I swear the older I get the longer it takes to do things. Not sure if I'm being more anal about it, or I'm just slowing down or a combination of both. |
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[#49]
Yeah, pedal feel. I guess i was expecting I bit stiffer feel. Maybe that will come with time. Maybe not. They do stop well though. I guess that is the important part.
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[#50]
Just received this email back from EBC.
"Thank you for your email and recent purchase of EBC Brakes for your 2013 Honda Pilot, we appreciate your business. Although you’ve done a bed-in procedure, your pads will not achieve full parallel wear with your rotors for about 1000 or so miles. Full bed in requires both the pads and the rotors to be completely matched. Once the pads and rotors are fully bedded you’ll notice a much firmer pedal feel and less dust from the pads. Continue to brake normally until the pads are fully bedded, do not attempt any more procedures." I was probably overreacting a little. But like I said, I want this set done right. |
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