User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 5:05:49 PM EDT
[#1]
High quality longer studs will be fine.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 5:08:36 PM EDT
[#2]
Are there spacers or something?
Lug centric or hub centric? |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 5:10:39 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
New project 67 camaro, just found last week. It came with American Racing Torque Thrust wheels on it. Pulled one of the lug nuts off and fund it was only about 3|8 inch of stud in the bolt. Not near enough for me!! Question is, would replacing the press in studs with longer ones be OK, or just go to another style wheel withe more nut thread contact. Some steel rally style would not be a bad option... Thanks... Yes. You press the old ones out, buy longer ones, and then press those in. Dorman has dozens of different applications. . |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 5:31:31 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes. You press the old ones out, buy longer ones, and then press those in. Dorman has dozens of different applications.. this^ |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 6:41:21 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yes. You press the old ones out, buy longer ones, and then press those in. Dorman has dozens of different applications.. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
New project 67 camaro, just found last week. It came with American Racing Torque Thrust wheels on it. Pulled one of the lug nuts off and fund it was only about 3|8 inch of stud in the bolt. Not near enough for me!! Question is, would replacing the press in studs with longer ones be OK, or just go to another style wheel withe more nut thread contact. Some steel rally style would not be a bad option... Thanks... Yes. You press the old ones out, buy longer ones, and then press those in. Dorman has dozens of different applications.. would any of the big box stores that rent tools have a press to take them out, or is it hammer time? I have changed them on trailers but would not like to hammer on my Differential... |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 6:56:27 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
would any of the big box stores that rent tools have a press to take them out, or is it hammer time? I have changed them on trailers but would not like to hammer on my Differential... I bought a lisle brand tool to put in new lugs for my truck. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETUD22?tag=vglnk-c102-20 |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 7:30:28 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
would any of the big box stores that rent tools have a press to take them out, or is it hammer time? I have changed them on trailers but would not like to hammer on my Differential... |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 8:34:41 PM EDT
[#8]
Tap them out with a hammer, won't hurt anything. To pull the new stud in put some anti-seize on the knurl and threads. Get a large nut and a lug nut then pull the stud through.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 8:43:09 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can you use a large C clamp with a socket behind the stud to push it out? don't know any reason that would not work. I'll try it tomorrow. thanks... |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 9:28:47 PM EDT
[#10]
I bought an impact hammer to replace some bad ones on my truck. Pushed them out like butter. I don't know why I waited so long. Took longer to install.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 10:02:49 PM EDT
[#11]
Pound them out. Put them in dry. Use a combination of tightening down a nut and pounding on the back side with a hammer and punch. Using a hammer and punch makes helps make sure they are fully seated.
Also use of a lubricant on wheels studs can be debated. When you use a lubricant when your not suppose to it allows you to exert a lot more clamping force. 90ft lbs is 90 ft lbs, but the clamping force is much higher if you lubricate the fasting hardware. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/26/2017 10:38:25 PM EDT
[#12]
Post up a photo of the lug nut. Is it the older ET type? Stud doesn't come through the wheel very far, but the lug goes down into the wheel. I'll see if I can find a photo.
Found one....  Attached File |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/27/2017 11:14:06 AM EDT
[#13]
I would do both.
1. I would get the correct studs for that car as the car is 50 years old and there's no telling how many different "local autoshop 1/2 ass parts" have been put on it in that time. I had a 71 SS Chevelle one time that had 3 DIFFERENT wheel studs on ONE wheel. So I'd change them all back to factory spec 2. I'd then verify the offset on those Torque Thrusts. If they are the wrong offset SELL THEM and buy the correct offset as these wheels are everywhere and getting the right set new or used will not be very hard. The wheels you should have on there are 15x7 front 15x8.5 rear Torque Thrust D's or if 17's - Vintage Wheel Works V-45s. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/27/2017 10:37:52 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tap them out with a hammer, won't hurt anything. To pull the new stud in put some anti-seize on the knurl and threads. Get a large nut and a lug nut then pull the stud through. Don't do this. Don't pull the stud through with the lug nut, and don't use any lubricant on the knurl. Pulling the stud through can stretch the stud making it weaker and more likely to snap under a shock load (pothole or the like). If you don't have a press, pound them through from the back with a hammer. I had to replace all 32 studs on my Dodge because the OEM units kept breaking for some reason... |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/28/2017 6:03:47 AM EDT
[#15]
Be aware that a lot of Doorman stuff is Chinese . . You could always get something like Moroso studs and cut them down to the correct length for the wheels
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/28/2017 8:57:22 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't do this. Don't pull the stud through with the lug nut, and don't use any lubricant on the knurl. Pulling the stud through can stretch the stud making it weaker and more likely to snap under a shock load (pothole or the like). If you don't have a press, pound them through from the back with a hammer. I had to replace all 32 studs on my Dodge because the OEM units kept breaking for some reason... Turn those two words around and you'll have your answer. 
that's some crazy shit. Was this an issue with a production run? Stock wheels? I do know that when I had a stud on a '95 Mustang get stripped by a tire changing goon with his new whiz bang 8700 ft lb impact, there were no aftermarket alternatives. The shop wanted to drill out my hub so a Dorman would fit. I looked at him and asked him, "Haven't you fucked up my car enough??" 
.79 cents at the dealership got me a replacement. Hell, the Dorman was something like $2.75 each. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/28/2017 8:32:15 PM EDT
[#17]
I always pound them out then pound them in. Running them up with the lug nut shouldn't hurt anything. Yes it stretches the stud, that's how fasteners work. What do you think happens when you bolt your wheel on?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 2/28/2017 9:02:58 PM EDT
[#18]
I found you can use this to press the old ones out and press new ones in. Worked for me.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/28/2017 10:39:34 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I bought a lisle brand tool to put in new lugs for my truck. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETUD22?tag=vglnk-c102-20 Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
would any of the big box stores that rent tools have a press to take them out, or is it hammer time? I have changed them on trailers but would not like to hammer on my Differential... I bought a lisle brand tool to put in new lugs for my truck. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ETUD22?tag=vglnk-c102-20 I bought one and do not recommend it! If you are using standard acorn style lug nuts the socket will not fit all the way on the nut and will round it off. It also didn't rotate as it shoukd which created a ton of friction. No bueno! They can be pressed with a c clamp and socket over thread portion. Better yet on a shop press. |
|
|
|
Posted: 2/28/2017 11:00:11 PM EDT
[#20]
I have done a few and anti siezed them when I put them in. Some I was able to hammer in, some I had to use the impact and a stack of washers.
You could use dish soap instead of anti sieze- it ends up drying and no longer keeps its lubricating properties. Like I said I used anti siezed and it was NBD. You'll need to measure them and get new studs a few thousandths larger in diameter so they go in nice and snug. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2017 12:38:15 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I always pound them out then pound them in. Running them up with the lug nut shouldn't hurt anything. Yes it stretches the stud, that's how fasteners work. What do you think happens when you bolt your wheel on? Putting 70-100ft-lbs on it while bolting a wheel to them is different than putting 200-300ft-lbs+ to them trying to seat them... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2017 3:41:04 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Putting 70-100ft-lbs on it while bolting a wheel to them is different than putting 200-300ft-lbs+ to them trying to seat them... That's way I said to use a combination of pulling with a nut, and pounding them in. Go back and fourth between tightening them down and pounding them in. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2017 6:00:09 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tap them out with a hammer, won't hurt anything. To pull the new stud in put some anti-seize on the knurl and threads. Get a large nut and a lug nut then pull the stud through. I've done a million of 'em just like this. Tap the old ones out. Start the new ones and pull them through with a spacer and an open lug nut turned backwards. Never had one break yet. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2017 9:19:45 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Turn those two words around and you'll have your answer.
that's some crazy shit. Was this an issue with a production run? Stock wheels? I do know that when I had a stud on a '95 Mustang get stripped by a tire changing goon with his new whiz bang 8700 ft lb impact, there were no aftermarket alternatives. The shop wanted to drill out my hub so a Dorman would fit. I looked at him and asked him, "Haven't you fucked up my car enough??"
.79 cents at the dealership got me a replacement. Hell, the Dorman was something like $2.75 each. You're right
First one happened with the stock wheels...next two happened with aftermarket. But...the aftermarket wheels I ran were the same exact ones I ran for 3+ years on a 2006 Dodge 3500. Truck with broken studs was a 2007 Dodge 2500. Wheels were never overtorqued by me....no telling how the previous owner treated the studs however. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/1/2017 9:40:34 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Putting 70-100ft-lbs on it while bolting a wheel to them is different than putting 200-300ft-lbs+ to them trying to seat them... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I always pound them out then pound them in. Running them up with the lug nut shouldn't hurt anything. Yes it stretches the stud, that's how fasteners work. What do you think happens when you bolt your wheel on? Putting 70-100ft-lbs on it while bolting a wheel to them is different than putting 200-300ft-lbs+ to them trying to seat them... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2017 8:58:11 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It doesn't take 200-300 ftlbs to seat them. Your impact is probably not capable of that. Do you seriously think it makes more torque seating a stud than mounting a wheel? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I always pound them out then pound them in. Running them up with the lug nut shouldn't hurt anything. Yes it stretches the stud, that's how fasteners work. What do you think happens when you bolt your wheel on? Putting 70-100ft-lbs on it while bolting a wheel to them is different than putting 200-300ft-lbs+ to them trying to seat them... I've done it in the past (before I knew better), and yes, it took a considerable amount of force to seat them. The tolerance between the stud and the hole will play a huge part in that however. I deal with trucks, which have larger studs, more knurls, and usually a tighter tolerance to hold the extra torque required (100-160ft-lbs lug nut torque). I have had to tack weld the back side of one set of studs on a D70 because the studs would spin in the holes when tightening... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2017 4:34:13 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've done it in the past (before I knew better), and yes, it took a considerable amount of force to seat them. The tolerance between the stud and the hole will play a huge part in that however. I deal with trucks, which have larger studs, more knurls, and usually a tighter tolerance to hold the extra torque required (100-160ft-lbs lug nut torque). I have had to tack weld the back side of one set of studs on a D70 because the studs would spin in the holes when tightening... I think he's pointing out that your impact don't know whether it's seating a stud or installing a wheel- it puts out the same torque regardless. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2017 7:07:37 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think he's pointing out that your impact don't know whether it's seating a stud or installing a wheel- it puts out the same torque regardless. You don't use an impact to install wheels
And the impact I use is good for 700 ft-lbs tightening... |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2017 8:24:12 PM EDT
[#29]
No, it's good for that much loosening, not tightening. Seriously think about that, 700 would twist about any fastener off. You can
face about putting wheels on with an impact all you want but more wheels on the road are impact installed than not. I would even guess about 90% of wheels are installed with one.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/2/2017 10:46:38 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No, it's good for that much loosening, not tightening. Seriously think about that, 700 would twist about any fastener off. You can face about putting wheels on with an impact all you want but more wheels on the road are impact installed than not. I would even guess about 90% of wheels are installed with one.I did fat finger that one. I meant to type 400. Hit the 7 instead. The specs on my gun specifically say tightening torque. I know the advertised numbers are 99% of the time loosening torques. I ain't new to pneumatic tools. The point is, hammering lug nuts on with an impact can and will fuck up the stud. Hell, my 3/8 M18 electric impact will buzz lug nuts on at a higher torque than what I torque my wheels to with a torque wrench (120ft-lbs). I often have to back them off a smudge to get proper torque if I ain't careful... |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
