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Posted: 1/31/2017 10:39:29 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT:
Hyperutectics? Watch that top ring gap!! I built my 5.0 using KB Hyperutectics. Got done and was cleaning up the shop and found the instructions on how the top ring is supposed to extra wide for heat expansion. Google will show you some really graphic images from engine builders that didn't do this.  Oh yea, read the directions a few times and will make sure my builder knows. Also they are designed to run tight in the holes. |
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Posted: 1/31/2017 3:18:49 PM EDT
[#2]
I dropped the pistons and rings off earlier today. He is a Mopar guy and races A bodies and he has used this piston in race applications and knows how they need to be set up so they are in good hands. I am having him do everything except cam install. Boring, decking, rods, bearings, balance and assemble for a total of $1100. He is a cool guy that likes cars and I feel really comfortable with him building the lower end.
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Posted: 1/31/2017 5:16:10 PM EDT
[#3]
Damn! I dropped $1200 and had to assemble myself.
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Posted: 1/31/2017 9:13:51 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ScottsGT:
Damn! I dropped $1200 and had to assemble myself. I could do the assembly to save some money but I will defer to his experience. He already had all the bores cleaned u, just needed the pistons for final. I asked if he wanted a deposit for the work and he said he had my block, crank and pistons as collateral as he laughed. Real good guy. Back to it. After dropping off the parts I stopped in and picked up a few quarts of UTech single stage black urethane to finish up the interior doors. On Mopars, the top and bottom plus perimeter of the door are interior color so mine is black. Plus the top rear quarter window trim plate. Anything that the door cards don't cover. So I prepped and shot the paint.  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/1/2017 12:06:21 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
I could do the assembly to save some money but I will defer to his experience. He already had all the bores cleaned u, just needed the pistons for final. I asked if he wanted a deposit for the work and he said he had my block, crank and pistons as collateral as he laughed. Real good guy. Back to it. After dropping off the parts I stopped in and picked up a few quarts of UTech single stage black urethane to finish up the interior doors. On Mopars, the top and bottom plus perimeter of the door are interior color so mine is black. Plus the top rear quarter window trim plate. Anything that the door cards don't cover. So I prepped and shot the paint. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170131-171450-137610.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170131-171502-137611.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170131-172122-137613.JPG Mine isn't - when I took the interior apart to change the door locks they were entirely body color - the same color that is peeking out from under the decals that the last guy painted around. |
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Posted: 2/1/2017 1:27:09 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shocktrp:
Mine isn't - when I took the interior apart to change the door locks they were entirely body color - the same color that is peeking out from under the decals that the last guy painted around. What year and what color interior? I don't think I have seen one that doesn't match the interior. Pics? |
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Posted: 2/1/2017 1:49:31 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
What year and what color interior? I don't think I have seen one that doesn't match the interior. Pics? 1973, black interior - I found what was left of the original build sheet under the back seat (front seats are recovered & carpet/headliner replaced, back seat is obviously original);  Attached FileI didn't take any pics with the door panels off, but you can see a little of the original blue peeking through from under the hood latch support - it's the same blue as what is under the sticker on the drivers side door frame that the last guy painted around (& the same blue inside the vents at the base of the windshield);  Attached FileIt looks like they did virtually no prep work before repainting - interior of trunk & underside of hood are POR-15 black, engine bay (including charcoal canister & some of the removable block off plates on the firewall) are the new body color, & it appears that they just taped around the interior/door panels when they did the jambs - the guy probably did it in his driveway while the drivetrain was out being rebuilt. |
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Posted: 2/1/2017 1:59:46 AM EDT
[#8]
I will always be jealous of artists like you.
I'd have better luck landing the space shuttle than completing a job like this. Thanks for sharing your incredible work op. It's great to see it come together. Txl |
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Posted: 2/1/2017 12:33:41 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TxLewis:
I will always be jealous of artists like you. I'd have better luck landing the space shuttle than completing a job like this. Thanks for sharing your incredible work op. It's great to see it come together. Txl Thanks! It is very easy to see how people start projects and then sell them or abandon them in the backyard. There are a ton of little things that need done. Replace, clean, polish, repair, blast, paint, etc. Apply that to every piece in the car and it adds up. I find it rewarding and fun most of the time. There are a lot of things I could replace or restore better but I am not looking for that level of restore as it would take way more money than I care to shell out. |
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Posted: 2/1/2017 12:38:15 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By shocktrp:
1973, black interior - I found what was left of the original build sheet under the back seat (front seats are recovered & carpet/headliner replaced, back seat is obviously original); https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/48896/021-137779.JPG I didn't take any pics with the door panels off, but you can see a little of the original blue peeking through from under the hood latch support - it's the same blue as what is under the sticker on the drivers side door frame that the last guy painted around (& the same blue inside the vents at the base of the windshield); https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/48896/Charger-011a-137780.JPG It looks like they did virtually no prep work before repainting - interior of trunk & underside of hood are POR-15 black, engine bay (including charcoal canister & some of the removable block off plates on the firewall) are the new body color, & it appears that they just taped around the interior/door panels when they did the jambs - the guy probably did it in his driveway while the drivetrain was out being rebuilt. If you have the full door panels, top to bottom, they leave the doors body colors. From 68 to 70 and maybe earlier the top and bottom door metal is what you see as the door cards only cover the middle of the door |
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Posted: 2/1/2017 4:26:48 PM EDT
[#11]
Yep, full door panels.
You can see a little bit of it without taking the panels off again;  Attached File |
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ZWE
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Posted: 2/2/2017 3:41:19 PM EDT
[#12]
Awesome job op. You gonna get rid of the pizza cutters?
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Posted: 2/2/2017 3:59:27 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Grug:
Awesome job op. You gonna get rid of the pizza cutters? Those are my break in wheels, going to burn them down to the rims. |
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Posted: 2/4/2017 9:04:28 PM EDT
[#14]
Got the steering column in and tach relocated to the column.
 Attached FileManual steering box with tie rods and center link installed.  Attached FileAnd today I installed the windshield and trim.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/5/2017 1:08:07 PM EDT
[#15]
I like the new tach location
It's really coming along! |
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Posted: 2/7/2017 1:45:16 AM EDT
[#16]
Let's see, re stitched the sun visors and put them in with the rear view mirror, a pillar trim. Also worked on the rear door panels. Backing board was excellent but the wood grain panel was replaced.
 Attached File Attached FileI also got the carpet in and put the rear seat in place. It looks like an old recover but is still good to use. Kick panels and sill mouldings were cleaned up as they are in nice shape too.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/7/2017 2:00:18 AM EDT
[#17]
Goddamn that's looking good!
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Posted: 2/7/2017 2:27:58 PM EDT
[#18]
This looks great and you are making great progress
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Posted: 2/13/2017 12:50:17 AM EDT
[#19]
I got some work done. Finally received my door glass felt so I got the regulators and glass in place.
 Attached File Attached File Attached FileAnd I installed my new hood pins. Holes were already there.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 1:03:43 AM EDT
[#20]
Any plans for stripes?
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Posted: 2/13/2017 1:17:59 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By disorientedpilot:
Any plans for stripes? I'm planning on doing the 1969 hood stripes after I cut and buff the hood. |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 2:25:42 AM EDT
[#22]
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Posted: 2/13/2017 2:33:48 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170212-232119-145738.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170212-232126-145739.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170212-232134-145740.JPG I kind of like it without the stripes.... Great looking. The gtx I was involved with had the wire mesh in the air grabber paonted orange... i dont know if it was OEM though. |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 3:26:57 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By disorientedpilot:
Great looking. The gtx I was involved with had the wire mesh in the air grabber paonted orange... i dont know if it was OEM though. It's suppose to be red for 1969. I have some nice red paint but I didn't feel like mixing it and then cleaning my gun afterwards |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 3:34:21 AM EDT
[#25]
I also got the console re-installed as well as the seatbelts. I am going to get a true 3 point for the front but I need the seats in so I can measure.
 Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 3:37:08 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
I also got the console re-installed as well as the seatbelts. I am going to get a true 3 point for the front but I need the seats in so I can measure. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170207-095612-145750.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170207-140057-145751.JPG Did the 69 not have shoulder belts? My 70 does. |
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Posted: 2/13/2017 4:57:04 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By disorientedpilot:
Did the 69 not have shoulder belts? My 70 does. It does. Mine did not come with the upper belt (the one that snaps to the headliner). But, I am wanting a retractable one like found on newer cars. I have the one I want to order (retractor mounts to the outside lower bolt and has an 8" extender to mount to the roof) has a stock lift latch buckle in black pebble grain. I think it runs around $70 each. It will be much easier and cleaner looking. |
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Posted: 2/15/2017 9:39:22 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dasol]
[#28]
Nice progress and work! wish i had the skills.. Here is my 70' RR 440-6 4Spd Just about have to replace the whole rear :( Not my work bit much for me hahah
 Attached File |
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Posted: 2/16/2017 8:15:47 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dasol:
Nice progress and work! wish i had the skills.. Here is my 70' RR 440-6 4Spd Just about have to replace the whole rear :( Not my work bit much for me hahahhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/284831/0215170853-147499.JPG Looks like it is in autobody jail! Numbers matching? Are you doing a full resto? What color? |
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Posted: 2/16/2017 9:05:22 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dasol:
Nice progress and work! wish i had the skills.. Here is my 70' RR 440-6 4Spd Just about have to replace the whole rear :( Not my work bit much for me hahahhttps://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/284831/0215170853-147499.JPG  My favorite Mopar. But Hemi flavored!
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SC, USA
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Posted: 2/20/2017 2:29:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dasol]
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
Looks like it is in autobody jail! Numbers matching? Are you doing a full resto? What color? Sadly no.. not numbers matching. It was lime green so I was going to keep that color...but I dunno now.. that silver you have is looking good. Its originally a 383 4spd I bought it with a 440-6 in there. Fender tag is gone and as far as full resto my wallet is believing it is  The Previous "restorers" did garbage like fiberglass over rust, roofing tar over rust and just screwed in metal sheeting over old metal without doing any rust prevention. So needless to say.. its going to cost way more than its worth. But what can I do.. if i tried to sell it now I would have everyone offering me 2k for it.. so I Think this will be my first and last restoration project unless I am going to learn how to do it myself.
In then end I will be able to enjoy a well done 70 RR with a 6 pack so I am certainly keeping it forever hahaha. |
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Posted: 2/20/2017 2:52:30 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dasol:
Sadly no.. not numbers matching. It was lime green so I was going to keep that color...but I dunno now.. that silver you have is looking good. Its originally a 383 4spd I bought it with a 440-6 in there. Fender tag is gone and as far as full resto my wallet is believing it is The Previous "restorers" did garbage like fiberglass over rust, roofing tar over rust and just screwed in metal sheeting over old metal without doing any rust prevention. So needless to say.. its going to cost way more than its worth. But what can I do.. if i tried to sell it now I would have everyone offering me 2k for it.. so I Think this will be my first and last restoration project unless I am going to learn how to do it myself.
In then end I will be able to enjoy a well done 70 RR with a 6 pack so I am certainly keeping it forever hahaha. Lime green looks killer on that body style.....just sayin. 
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Posted: 2/20/2017 6:35:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1969GTX]
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dasol:
Sadly no.. not numbers matching. It was lime green so I was going to keep that color...but I dunno now.. that silver you have is looking good. Its originally a 383 4spd I bought it with a 440-6 in there. Fender tag is gone and as far as full resto my wallet is believing it is The Previous "restorers" did garbage like fiberglass over rust, roofing tar over rust and just screwed in metal sheeting over old metal without doing any rust prevention. So needless to say.. its going to cost way more than its worth. But what can I do.. if i tried to sell it now I would have everyone offering me 2k for it.. so I Think this will be my first and last restoration project unless I am going to learn how to do it myself.
In then end I will be able to enjoy a well done 70 RR with a 6 pack so I am certainly keeping it forever hahaha. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dasol:
Originally Posted By myfakename:
Looks like it is in autobody jail! Numbers matching? Are you doing a full resto? What color? Sadly no.. not numbers matching. It was lime green so I was going to keep that color...but I dunno now.. that silver you have is looking good. Its originally a 383 4spd I bought it with a 440-6 in there. Fender tag is gone and as far as full resto my wallet is believing it is The Previous "restorers" did garbage like fiberglass over rust, roofing tar over rust and just screwed in metal sheeting over old metal without doing any rust prevention. So needless to say.. its going to cost way more than its worth. But what can I do.. if i tried to sell it now I would have everyone offering me 2k for it.. so I Think this will be my first and last restoration project unless I am going to learn how to do it myself.
In then end I will be able to enjoy a well done 70 RR with a 6 pack so I am certainly keeping it forever hahaha. Well, I was young, dumb and broke before so I am familiar with quick patches. I screwed and caulked in a new driver side floorpan in my 68 Charger when I was in high school so my feet didn't drop through lol. For so called pros to do it is laziness. Read a few tales of guys buying "restored" cars only to find out they glassed over rust. As far as total resto prices go....it is more than most can afford. Right now as my car sits, I am in it for a bit over $13,000 and that included the $5000 for the car. Body and paint only at a shop would be $15k plus. People end up putting in way more than it will be worth but if you have no plans to sell then it can be worth it. When all is said and done on mine, I will be invested in it right around $19,000 which is me doing all the work except machine work. Lot of guys are in for 3x that so I can live with less than stellar paint and unrestored undercarriage. |
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Posted: 2/20/2017 6:52:29 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
Well, I was young, dumb and broke before so I am familiar with quick patches. I screwed and caulked in a new driver side floorpan in my 68 Charger when I was in high school so my feet didn't drop through lol. For so called pros to do it is laziness. Read a few tales of guys buying "restored" cars only to find out they glassed over rust. As far as total resto prices go....it is more than most can afford. Right now as my car sits, I am in it for a bit over $13,000 and that included the $5000 for the car. Body and paint only at a shop would be $15k plus. People end up putting in way more than it will be worth but if you have no plans to sell then it can be worth it. When all is said and done on mine, I will be invested in it right around $19,000 which is me doing all the work except machine work. Lot of guys are in for 3x that so I can live with less than stellar paint and unrestored undercarriage. Fortunately the rails and underbody apart from the cabin and trunk floor pans are good to go. You will be in a real good spot.. I will not. hah. |
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Posted: 2/20/2017 7:36:15 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dasol:
Fortunately the rails and underbody apart from the cabin and trunk floor pans are good to go. You will be in a real good spot.. I will not. hah. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dasol:
Originally Posted By myfakename:
Well, I was young, dumb and broke before so I am familiar with quick patches. I screwed and caulked in a new driver side floorpan in my 68 Charger when I was in high school so my feet didn't drop through lol. For so called pros to do it is laziness. Read a few tales of guys buying "restored" cars only to find out they glassed over rust. As far as total resto prices go....it is more than most can afford. Right now as my car sits, I am in it for a bit over $13,000 and that included the $5000 for the car. Body and paint only at a shop would be $15k plus. People end up putting in way more than it will be worth but if you have no plans to sell then it can be worth it. When all is said and done on mine, I will be invested in it right around $19,000 which is me doing all the work except machine work. Lot of guys are in for 3x that so I can live with less than stellar paint and unrestored undercarriage. Fortunately the rails and underbody apart from the cabin and trunk floor pans are good to go. You will be in a real good spot.. I will not. hah. I am now. I replaced both front frame rails (complete doghouse) and the roof. A body shop would have drug me over the coals on those repairs alone. Looking back I am glad I did it but at the time all I could think of was "what in the hell did I get myself into?!" |
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Posted: 2/21/2017 5:44:38 AM EDT
[#36]
Fun times. Put the front and rear bumpers back on. They will need re chromed eventually but they can wait. They were tweaked so I had to straighten them up a bit.
 Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/21/2017 10:35:33 PM EDT
[#37]
Looking good even with those bumpers..
I priced out what I need to replace and it came to 2k.. just exterior stuff hahaa.... really i am crying inside. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:03:01 PM EDT
[#38]
I picked up my short block today. Machinist did a good job on it and I'll have him check out my Stealth heads for flatness, spring height and spring pressure when I order them. Also a few shots of the front with the garage open.
 Attached File Attached File Attached FileAlso picked up my new seat cover so I'll be messing around with that tonight. |
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Posted: 2/27/2017 9:59:51 PM EDT
[#39]
At some point, i would love to see some info on your daily.
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Posted: 2/28/2017 7:09:16 PM EDT
[#40]
Motor in garage...
 Attached FileCould someone re check my math... Pistons are .010 in the hole, valve relief is 5cc, combustion chamber is 80cc, steel shim gasket is .020, bore and stroke is 4.36 x 3.75 I came up with 10.92cr which is pushing it with pump gas. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 7:16:04 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
Motor in garage...https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170227-222231-156067.JPG Could someone re check my math... Pistons are .010 in the hole, valve relief is 5cc, combustion chamber is 80cc, steel shim gasket is .020, bore and stroke is 4.36 x 3.75 I came up with 10.92cr which is pushing it with pump gas. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 8:06:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1969GTX]
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NorthBridge:
Aluminum or iron heads? If aluminum you shouldn't have any issues with 11:1cr I wouldn't think. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NorthBridge:
Originally Posted By myfakename:
Motor in garage...https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170227-222231-156067.JPG Could someone re check my math... Pistons are .010 in the hole, valve relief is 5cc, combustion chamber is 80cc, steel shim gasket is .020, bore and stroke is 4.36 x 3.75 I came up with 10.92cr which is pushing it with pump gas. Sorry, aluminum heads. Going to get the Stealth heads (closed chamber) and have the machine shop check for flatness and check spring pressures and heights. |
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Posted: 2/28/2017 8:38:50 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
Sorry, aluminum heads. Going to get the Stealth heads (closed chamber) and have the machine shop check for flatness and check spring pressures and heights. I'm thinking you should be fine, but I'm not a mechanic. Have you decided on a carb or fuel injection yet? |
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Posted: 3/1/2017 12:14:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: disorientedpilot]
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
Motor in garage...https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170227-222231-156067.JPG Could someone re check my math... Pistons are .010 in the hole, valve relief is 5cc, combustion chamber is 80cc, steel shim gasket is .020, bore and stroke is 4.36 x 3.75 I came up with 10.92cr which is pushing it with pump gas. felpro gasket? piston volume? |
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Posted: 3/1/2017 2:55:32 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By disorientedpilot:
felpro gasket? piston volume? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By disorientedpilot:
Originally Posted By myfakename:
Motor in garage...https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/96423/20170227-222231-156067.JPG Could someone re check my math... Pistons are .010 in the hole, valve relief is 5cc, combustion chamber is 80cc, steel shim gasket is .020, bore and stroke is 4.36 x 3.75 I came up with 10.92cr which is pushing it with pump gas. felpro gasket? piston volume? Mopar Performance .020 steel shim gasket, 5cc valve cutouts in flat top. |
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Posted: 3/1/2017 6:58:21 AM EDT
[#46]
Static Compression Ratio Calculator
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html |
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Posted: 3/1/2017 12:01:56 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By myfakename:
Mopar Performance .020 steel shim gasket, 5cc valve cutouts in flat top. Compression Ratio :10.93 : 1 Total Displacement (in.3) :447.9 |
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Posted: 3/2/2017 4:24:16 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By disorientedpilot:
Compression Ratio :10.93 : 1 Total Displacement (in.3) :447.9 Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By disorientedpilot:
Originally Posted By myfakename:
Mopar Performance .020 steel shim gasket, 5cc valve cutouts in flat top. Compression Ratio :10.93 : 1 Total Displacement (in.3) :447.9 Yep, that's what I got too. I did get an email back from KB. The 5cc number is incorrect for this piston as listed from retailers. The piston relief is actually 9cc which equates to 10.51cr 
I also started tearing down my 727 as I have a pile of new parts get in it. Full rebuild kit with red alto clutches and kolene steels, bushings, seals, gaskets and L/R band, billet L/R and kickdown servos, new sprag rollers/springs, 3.8 lever, heavy duty band strut, 5800rpm governor, and a Transgo TF2 shift kit. I love this stuff!  Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 3/2/2017 4:29:14 AM EDT
[#49]
Also got a new seat cover put on. Had a local shop make one for $120 and fit pretty good even though he only had the old one to go by.
 Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 3/2/2017 9:41:58 AM EDT
[#50]
I am so impressed with the transmission rebuild. Transmissions are the "mysterious lady parts' of the automotive world. I have almost NO idea how everything works down there.
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