Can't remember how long it too me to be approved. I registered a while ago. Pretty sure it was reasonably quick though. I think I'd be surprised if they didn't have you registered before Wednesday.

While I think higher is better I might only be a little concerned if the pressure is below say, 20 PSI. I don't think it would be a deal breaker if it was a truck I liked otherwise. Like Lawman said it could be the gauge or, maybe just needs some Sea Foam run through the crankcase due to sludge buildup, or possibly a new oil pump which is under $80. Personally, I think I'd be more concerned about crankcase blowby.

Since we were talking about Scepter fuel cans, I thought I'd update. Mine showed up today, earlier than I was expecting.

Makes me sick to my stomach I had to pay about $60 each for these for the shape they're in.

They're usable but there's no doubt these things spent most of their life out under the sun.

After looking at them, I though why not try giving the Meguairs PlastX I've got a try since it did a good job on the windows.

I cleaned a spot on one can with some soap and water then wiped well with alcohol. Definite improvement, no idea how long it will last:



I'm thinking about picking up some of that Rustoleum ReColor I've seen. The Amazon reviews seem mostly favorable. Supposed to offer some UV protection as well.

Less likely to get stolen, at least.  I bit the bullet and paid 80 each for 4 new ones, and now I don't want to keep them on the vehicle out of the risk they'll get stolen.

Maybe a harmonic/sympathetic vibration that only shows up at idle?  My vehicle had a horrible vibration from the tunnel between the rear seats at idle.  I couldn't figure out what it was, since it was hidden underneath.  Luckily it went away after I ran a tank of fuel with Seafoam and another tank with a quart of 2 stroke oil.  That smoothed out the idle a bunch and the harmonic vibration went away.

Where'd you find new ones for $80? Only found them for $100+ when I looked.

Once I get the can holders situated I'm going to rig up or find a retention system. Did the same thing with the Pelican cooler I got. Made a cable loop and padlocked it to one of the D-rings in the bed.

Hmm... Could be. That's worth giving a try. I'll have to pick some up. Did you add the Sea Foam and 2 stroke to full tanks and how much Sea Foam you use?

I have been running it with Diesel Kleen though it's the winter blend I got on clearance (which I read shouldn't really matter).

I did notice yesterday after driving it and getting home that when it was happening if I rolled the truck backwards or forwards a foot it would go away, roll it back to where it was and it would start back up.

I think for now I'm going to do what you did and then just monitor it unless I hear differently from anyone.

Looks like he's got 2 left at that price: ebay.  He will cut a deal on shipping for multiples, since it's ~$15 each in shipping if you buy only one.

I figured it's expensive, but it's only getting MORE expensive.

I ran a tank with 2 bottles of Seafoam, but I'd start with the 2 stroke oil.  I think that's the one that helped the most.  Supposedly (bro science here) the 2 stroke oil replaces the missing shit from ULSD.  I put a quart in each tank.  

I must have missed his when looking...

As for them getting more expensive, I'm hoping to move to Northern Idaho in a few years. Then I'll just smuggle them into the US from Canada. I'll cut my ARF bros a good deal on them!

Probably a felony...like everything else these days.

I just went to a Canadian website and ordered one......let's see what happens.

You're in NY so it's probably a double bad felony.

Seriously though, I'm curious if they ship it.

We'll see. They sent me an automated order confirmation. My CC wasn't charged yet but that's probably not surprising being the weekend.


They cancelled it........damn.

I mounted up my fording intake and stack today, which wasn't a lot of fun. While I know it's not the complete kit, I wanted them more for the look like I had on my truck in the USMC as it's not likely I'll be fording anything deeper than over the tires. The intake was easy enough but the exhaust was another matter - the "M998 exhaust" I bought turned out to be for an armored truck. I ended up (or my friend did) cutting 3" out of it and welding it back together - good as new. After doing that I finally mounted the tubular brushguard I've had sitting around - I managed to get it done before the downpour, so I'll be painting it next week.

I'm looking to add a pyrometer/EGT to my truck. Browsing around I see a lot of white and flashy LED gauges. Anyone have any recommendations for a kit that looks like it would fit with the truck?

I did spot this one on eBay. It looks like it would be a good match to the gauges in the truck aside from the chrome bezel which is easily fixed.




Picked up some 2 stroke when I was out today and added it straight away. Did a fair bit of driving this evening after since the weather was great! Got home and checked for the mystery ringing and couldn't get it to do it. Thanks for the suggestion! I'm going to try the next tank without any and see if it returns as a little trial and error. I'm cautiously optimistic at this point though.


The exhaust stack is definitely high on my list. Looks great on there! Didn't realize there was more than one version. Good to know.

Was it pretty straightforward mounting it up aside from removing a section of it? I noticed my truck has plastic plugs in the fender in that area which I'm guessing is for mounting it.

If the exhaust has the mounting kit, the dead giveaway is that there are 2 steel spacers included that are about 2.5" long. If you don't have the mounting kit, the length of the horizontal section from the flange, to the center of the vertical portion is 27" - the armored ones are 30"

Installation was straight forward. You remove the standard exhaust (save the nuts/bolts) and pull the plugs from your fender. You'll need support behind the fender for the exhaust - there's a support part that goes there, but I've never actually seen one for sale outside of a full fording kit. I bent 2 pieces of 1/4" flat stock about 3" wide, 90 degrees and used that. There are plugs on top of the fender for the exhaust support, I pulled 2 and bolted it there and again on the side of the fender using the supplied holes.

Loosely bolt the stack to the exhaust and then maneuver it into place so you can install the fender bolts - There are 2 rubber plugs that go in those holes that the bolts pass through, so don't forget those. Once it's lined up on the fender, tighten those down, then at the exhaust - don't forget the u-bolt! All in all, it wasn't terribly difficult and took abut 45min to install.

So looks like I have the high bid on one that goes to auction on Wednesday.  Lets see if that holds.

So who's going to be the first?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7gZ28Msa8g

Best of luck to you!

I've always like this one...






Seconded!

Good luck. Have a backup incase you don't get the one you want. I did not get the one I originally wanted but got another later in the day.

Yh this is actually my 3rd or 4th choice lol.

Last night I learned that my wife's scrapbooking gear is actually worth a crap - I printed out perfect 2" vinyl stickers so that I could correctly mark my slantback as a USMC vehicle. These came out at the correct size and very similar font to what is used on the real trucks - it'll also print out 1" stickers for tire pressure, "NO STEP", etc.

I hope to get them applied this weekend if the rain ever stops. We'll see how well they hold, but they'll make terrific stencils even if the letters don't hold.

Finally got through reading this thread yesterday.  Just came across it last week, not sure how I missed it!    Great thread!  

Didn't see this answered, but the 37" Goodyear MT has a new tread depth of 19/32.  

I have a 1998 AM General HUMMER HMC4.  Bought it in 2007.  I recognize JohnnyRotten from the HML.  

That's awesome! LOL!

Now, does your wife know you found her scrapbooking gear useful.




Welcome to the thread and appreciate the info! I need to measure mine so I can get an idea what I can sell them for when I get the replacements.

She had to show me how to use the printer, so she knows that I needed it - but I had to carefully hide my giddiness at having this option in the house versus trying to find them somewhere

For sure! Will save a bit of money too.

I found Kascar has most all of the stickers, including the black stars (which you obviously won't need since you're doing USMC markings) and white on black "NO STEP".

Will run me about $60 to redo all of mine after I paint it.

Lost my bid.  Looking at the auctions seems they are all going for $10k plus.

How hard is it to convert the 2 door to 4 door?  Seems like its just removing the panel that is added no?

Really easy. You need to remove the two man divider, the two side rails that the top attaches to and then add two longer side rails and a C-Pillar. All the holes are already there it just getting the hardware. Mine was originally a two man as they seem cheaper some times.

yup that is why I am looking at the 2 seaters now.  But it is funny cus a couple 2 seaters sold for less than $6k as it seemed everyone was bidding on the 4 seaters.  Now the rest of the day there are mainly 2 seaters and seems the prices for those are going to go higher as most of the 4 seaters are gone for the day lol.  Looks like I will be waiting until next week to see if I can get a deal.

They are cheaper late in the day (after the lunch break).  I'll bet you can get a decent runner for under $7000 in the next couple of hours.

Don't know judging by what is going on now lol.  A tan 2 door 92 with no roof or doors and need a new power steering pump just went for nearly $8k.

Here is one that sold for $5900

http://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/Humvees-1991-AM-General-M998-Humvee-HMMWV-Texas/742009?h=5000%2Cc%7C3468%2Csm%7C0%2Csort%7Cad+asc%2Cmf%7C1&rr=0.5&hitprm=&pnLink=yes&reloadCode=close,742009,1470246681854
I bet this one sells for under $6500:


http://www.govplanet.com/for-sale/Humvees-1986-AM-General-M1038-Humvee-HMMWV-California/752112?h=5000%2Cc%7C3468%2Csm%7C0%2Csort%7Cad+asc%2Cmf%7C1&rr=0.06667&hitprm=&pnLink=yes
 

Yh that first one in Texas is what I was referring to when I said it seemed most 4 doors were auctioned in the morning and the few 2 doors that were at about the same time seemed to fly under the radar and go cheaper.  The one in California is all the way across the country and would surely be very expensive to ship to me lol.  Haven't been looking at any of the California or Utah humvees

There's just something about Yellow that grows on you....11-HMC4 yellows in 1998 and 32-HMCO in 2003
I was hell bent for a 2003, I really wish they had a HMC4 in 03 but no such luck, I totally dig your trucks look, I like the roof rack and rhino tire carrier..

Picked up a bottle of that Rustoleum ReColor. Had a little trouble finding it. No luck at Walmart or Home Depot. Finally found it at Lowes. Was $18 and change.

Treated all the Scepter cans with it. Definitely helped clean them up. You can still tell they're scratched and worn and, some of the plastic is too heavily discolored with a gray color to really fix but, it did improve the look of them.

You're supposed to let it cure for 1 hour. Directions say you can apply a second coat to plastics so I'm going to.

A word of caution, when they say apply in a well ventilated area, they aren't kidding. I don't think I'd use this stuff even in an open garage. I was on my covered porch (you can't let the treated surface get wet until cured or it discolors and it was looking like rain) and when I opened the included sample wipe it about took my breath away. Very strong ammonia smell.

Here's a side by side with an untreated can and one that I just coated (I moved them out to the shelter to get the smell away from the house):



I'll take a pic once they've cured and then follow up with the second coat. I've already noticed the glossiness is reducing as it dries.



Also, forgot to mention earlier, I changed my t-case fluid yesterday. My bouncing speedometer is now mostly fixed. Only bounces a little under 30 now. Strange that just changing the t-case fluid would do that.

I've seen two of the other yellow 1998 HMC4s, one in Arkansas and one in California.   I didn't search out for a yellow truck, I just wanted a 98 or 97.5 HMC4.  Mine was pretty much stock, low enough miles, good price so I bought it.   Thanks for the compliment.  A yellow open top with a black soft top really looks like a Tonka truck.  

I bought a 2 man last month. I watched the auctions for a couple weeks and noticed they tended to go a bit cheaper. I've already got the C-pillar and new side rails and I'm just waiting for  the bow. Nothing came with any hardware though so I'll have to wait and see what kind of screws everything needs.

I bought mine from Lynch, I took my father in-law with me, I test drove 2 yellow 03 HMCO, he almost died when I told him what I was going to pay for it, as I was doing the paperwork, in the showroom there was a alpha black OT and alpha black wagon with no window stickers, he went over and sat in the wagon and Jim walked up to him and asked him if he had any questions, he asked how much and he said 135k and 145k, the look on his face was priceless. They talked for about a hr, it was a great experience, then driving home in a snow storm and using the heated windshield made it even better...

I think I posted this early in the thread, but given how many pages that this has now grown to - it's worth posting again for those who are investigating getting one.

I think to be armed with knowledge beforehand will save you grief down the road - it also helps to check your expectations. These aren't new trucks and almost none are going to be lot queens - if you do find a lot queen, I'd have to ask why it's that way.

- Generally speaking, the 6.5's tend to be a little more attractive than the 6.2's. Why? Because the 6.2 is the original engine and the 6.5 isn't a unit level change out, so the truck likely went through some sort of depot rebuild at some point in it's life. Some also tend to think that it's a more powerful engine, which really is a moot point as it isn't terribly so. There are plenty of great 6.2's out there and crappy 6.5's though, so pay attention to the inspection report and videos.

- I wouldn't pay too much attention to the mileage and instead look closely at the pictures. It's well known that speedo's get swapped out with no regard for the previous mileage.

- Running vehicles go for more than non-runners because, well - it runs. I personally would stay away from anything that says "started with ether", or anything like that as that's not good for diesels and there is a strong likelihood that it toasted the glow plugs. A non runner could be something as simple as replacing missing parts - or it could mean a blown engine. I wouldn't necessarily be afraid of a vehicle that needed to be jumped. Iron/GovPlanet does make an effort to get vehicles to run because they bring in more money. Typically the checker or inspector has like a $500 budget per vehicle to get it to the point of starting. All of this is a risk as even a running engine are likely to require even minor work. My first one had no power steering fluid as a result of a blown hose. I replaced the hose and refilled/burped the power steering and it's running great again. While you don't need to be a trained mechanic to do a lot of work on these - you need to have at least a little bit of mechanical aptitude and tools to do the work. I see a lot of posts on other forums from people asking questions that clearly show that they're in over their heads. The Tech Manuals are free and can be downloaded on Steelsoldiers.com. These are meant to be an elementary level, step by step work flow - they're meant for 18 year old kids to read, and sometimes not the brightest ones at that. If you're waiting on your EUC, download the manuals and get an understanding of how to fix some of the basic things you're likely to see - at the very least, the service aspect like changing fluids and filters.

- The 4 man trucks will generally sell for more. Why? Because most folks want more than just a 2 man pickup. They want to take family/friends for rides, etc. Trucks that are more complete will sell more than incomplete trucks as it means there is less for the new buyer to likely buy. Would you want to buy 4 soft doors, a top and seats if you didn't have to? In all likelihood though, the complete trucks sell for a good bit more and the cost savings over buying one without these parts can easily mean purchasing NOS parts instead of the well used parts you'll likely get with the complete truck.

As stated earlier, I think it's important when looking into this to do your research and to check your expectations. It's not likely that you'll get a perfect truck by any means - those that look pristine are generally selling for a very pretty penny. Those that are stripped down go for less, but need work. When I selected mine, I did it knowing that I have regular access to Humvee parts, so my highest priority was a running engine and a straight body. I paid attention to the videos posted for my particular truck and noted that it had the 6.5 in it with no blowback from what I could see. The odometer said 37K, which is probably correct for this particular engine - but again, pay no mind to it. My body needs paint - but it's straight. My first one was an M1038 and it came with the windshield, "B" pillar and 4 seats that were sunfaded and torn. It appeared to be a good running truck, so I placed my bid - and actually won it for just over the starting bid. With the exception of the Power Steering situation, the fluids all looked terrific (oil filter shows that it was last changed about 6 months before I got it) and were at the correct levels. I'm still tinkering with a few things here and there - but I really have no complaints with my purchases (I have 2 now)

With as configurable as these trucks are, I wouldn't fret about what the configuration of the truck is that you're getting - just make sure that the condition is something that you're willing to tackle. I'm not a mechanic, but am a good parts changer as a result of studying the tech manuals but even still have questions from time to time. It behooves you to look through the prior history of the forums and to check the manuals first as chances are it's come up before. Most are very happy to answer your questions even if you get the occasional craggy old fart that wants to tell you that it's been answered a 100x before or to study the tech manual.

I started applying the vinyl stickers tonight - so far, so good.

Time to hop in the Wayback Machine... Back when I was still in high school, about 4-5 years after I had been bit by the Hummer bug, my family had to go to St. Louis for some business. I knew all about Jim Lynch and Lynch Hummer from being on the HML (I think I signed up around 1994) so, I talked my mom into making a side trip to Lynch Hummer just to see the biggest Hummer dealership and ended up meeting Mr. Lynch.

Mr. Lynch knew we weren't serious buyers but took the time to show us around, let me sit in one of the showroom trucks for a bit and talk about the trucks, and even gave me some swag to include some brochures, a promotional VHS tape, and one of these posters that I asked him to sign. Still have the poster hanging on the wall!



That whole post is some great recap advice to new readers!

As for the part in red, I have a feeling I know the thread you're referring to. Pretty sure I was just reading that yesterday. I got the same impression too.

Ran into something like that when I was out in my truck the other day and made a stop at Sam's. Had a husband and wife approach me in the parking lot and ask me some questions about how much, where to get, room enough for 4 kids, etc. I hate to judge a book by the cover but I just didn't get the vibe that ownership of one was for them but I humored them with their questions anyway. I got the impression that if they followed up on it, a truck would be purchased and if they got past the initial cleanup and repair (assuming they did the legwork to plate it), after a few trips out they would be disappointed with how loud, uncomfortable, hot/cold it is and sell. I could be wrong but that's just how they struck me...

And agreed entirely on your point which I think goes without saying for nearly any classic or specialty vehicle. The fact is, there aren't many mechanics out there that will willingly work on a relatively unknown and truthfully exotic vehicle so you'd better know or learn how to do a lot of it yourself.

The "my transmission pan has a major leak, to the point of draining nearly all the fluid - but why won't my truck move" guy? Yup, that's the one.

That was the one.

That gentleman is going to have a steep learning curve.

wow lolol. Don't know what else to say to that lol

If you haven't seen it, the guy went on about his truck not moving and how he changed his fluids/filters, etc.and didn't understand what the problem was. He seemed to think that the transmission leak he had was a relatively minor issue - he said he checked the bucket he had under the leak and it had about a gallon of fluid in it.

He was more concerned about getting his truck mobile than he was with addressing the leak first - I agree with Ryan in that he's going to have a very steep learning curve if it doesn't show up for sale elsewhere first.

A gallon of fluid lol. WOW.  Let me know if he is going to sell it for a good price.....second thought not sure I would want that truck....no telling what damage he has caused in that thing lol

That was sad--it looked like a nice truck.  We need to put together a rescue/intervention, like with abused pets.

Let's do it - we could probably even get a reality TV show out of it, seems like it's not that hard anymore. ......

Installed a spare tire carrier today.  It's the "no bumper" version from Kascar.

2 mounts replace the frame mounts, same as are used for used for airlift bumpers:


Mount on:


And with the tire: