1989 RamCharger 4wd - Page 3

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - 1989 RamCharger 4wd (Page 3 of 5)

Posted: 10/23/2015 5:54:45 PM EDT

[#1]

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That guard dog is the exact tire I've been looking at for my xj.

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In about another 30 minutes, I'll give you a first impression. Sitting in Firestone right now, because I'm a fan of letting other break beads on big tires.

I got the 31x10.5r15 guard dog tires, I didn't get the kedge grip, because it probably won't help me much in my conditions I plan on driving. Besides, with 19/32" of tread, kedge grip probably won't do much, lol.

Posted: 10/23/2015 8:01:51 PM EDT

[#2]

Well, the service dude took a long ass time... (almost two hours) because the wheels were really corroded.

They're not as loud as I thought they'd be. They've got some nice grip to 'em on the road, I'll probably know more about how they "feel" in a few weeks when I go off road. They definitely make the truck look more aggressive, and it "feels" like it's got a bit more height (265/70r15 to 30x10.5r15) but that's just an illusion. They feel a lot heavier driving around, it takes a lot more gas pedal to hold speed. That's going to suck the next time I fill up, and the time after, etc. I forgot how easily rocks get caught in big knobby tires, freaked me out turning out of the firestone a little bit. I thought I lost a wheel weight.

Posted: 10/30/2015 9:55:07 AM EDT

[#3]

The last time I drove the truck, it had a nice violent shake to it on deceleration. "No big deal," I thought, "Probably just u-joints, I should replace those soon."

I drove it to work yesterday and it had an even worse shake/vibration than before. I remember thinking "I should tighten the u-joint cradles or at least look at them when I get to work." while riding the brake and keeping on the gas to decelerate to keep the drivetrain loaded to keep it from shaking. So when I got to work, I forgot to check the cradles/straps, but I did remember to order the parts from NAPA.

I had a meeting shortly after lunch, had to drive down to the building. I started to leave, but realized that I left my phone on my desk, and the shaking/vibration was concerning me, so I turned around and went back to the office to grab my phone. I pulled into the parking lot, no parking spaces, so I just parked in the fire lane, which blocks just about everyone into their spots. I then hopped out, ran into the building, grabbed my phone, and got back in the truck, started it up, put it in reverse and:

*THUD*

CLANG CLANG

*SCRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAPEEEEE*

Oops. "It's the driveshaft, I'll bet the u-joint came apart... Crap. I have that meeting." So I looked underneath the car, and yep, front u-joint of the driveshaft was on the asphalt, along with a handful of parts. So I picked up all of the needle bearings, wiped them off, stuffed them back into the caps, and put them back onto the u-joint. Then I found the last bolt scattered under the truck, and started to put them back together. The u-joint straps were structurally sound, but one was bent almost flat. All the bolts were there too. I lined everything up, threw the truck in neutral, spun the yolk to get it lined up, and tightened all of the straps down, and drove to the meeting.

After work, I picked up the new straps and u-joints from NAPA. Not looking forward to replacing them.

Posted: 11/1/2015 1:00:57 PM EDT

[#4]

I never _had_ to replace U-joints but I did as a matter of course on the Challenger years ago. If you don't have a press, a heavy duty C-Clamp of sufficient size (preferably one with ACME threads) and the right sockets may be adequate to press the caps out of the shaft ends.

Posted: 11/2/2015 4:37:52 PM EDT

[#5]

Quote History

Quoted:
I never _had_ to replace U-joints but I did as a matter of course on the Challenger years ago. If you don't have a press, a heavy duty C-Clamp of sufficient size (preferably one with ACME threads) and the right sockets may be adequate to press the caps out of the shaft ends.

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I'm going to use a dead blow hammer and socket, propping it up with some 2x4 pieces.

The bearing surfaces were showing wear, and after I picked the needle bearings up off the asphalt, I'm not sure I didn't get some sand or other contaminant in there to cause it to fail catastrophically.

Posted: 11/3/2015 10:56:17 PM EDT

[#6]

Oh they absolutely need replacing in your case. It would not be worth trying to completely clean them out, and if you lost any of the needle bearings... Hopefully the swap goes easy.

Posted: 11/23/2015 10:52:57 AM EDT

[#7]

I still haven't gotten around to replacing the u-joints. Eventually I will, but getting the house ready for winter is a little bit more important right now.

I yanked a tree down with it yesterday afternoon. Good times. 4-low works fine. The tree got caught and didn't come down the first time we pulled it, but the second time it worked fine, it's all about the angles.

Something is wrong with the cooling system, it spiked at half-value almost immediately after the first attempt in low, then it puked some coolant out of the radiator cap. Cap is a 1.1BAR, but god knows how old it is.

Posted: 12/18/2015 6:20:23 PM EDT

[#8]

Last weekend, my brother-in-law noticed that the seat bracket was broken when we were going around a turn... So when we came back to the house, I tacked it with my fluxcore welder, and started looking for a replacement part.

I stopped by a junkyard on the way home from work today, hoping to find a seat hinge mechanism from a 75-93 dodge, so I didn't have to make one myself.

I pulled in, asked the guy if they had something like that, and he said "You know, we have a ramcharger out there in the yard."

Happy dance ensues.

They tell me that it's in great condition, most of the interior is still there, and it's not been there for long.

Both seats were in it, hinge mechanism was actually pretty new, and looked NICE. So, I began to try to round off the bolts with the tools in the truck. Almost fully succeeded, heh. I got the passenger seat out, and got the rear seat armrests out too. I called my wife, who drove to the yard with my socket set, and she brought them to me. I got the rest of the crap I needed out.

Posted: 12/30/2015 8:38:48 PM EDT

[#9]

So, I put about 430 highway miles on it this past week. On the trip up to NY I got 13.2MPG, in the pouring rain, on the NJTP, getting turned around in NYC, Driving up the mountain to get to that state park in NJ near Greenwood lake, and all that jazz.

Had to replace a blown out freeze plug before the journey even started, but otherwise uneventful. Ate a lot of gasoline.

I really need to replace the u-joints in the main driveshaft now, the shake is getting to the point where it makes me legitimately concerned when I'm on the highway.

I'm pretty sure the valve stem seals are leaking oil a little bit, which isn't good, but not a big deal. I really don't want to pull the heads, so I'm starting to look for a new complete longblock, I've found a couple for under $150 so far. I'll probably do a complete teardown and rebuild on it.

Posted: 1/29/2016 7:51:45 PM EDT

[#10]

Truck's been good, nothing died during the snowstorm, and it's been my DD since about early December.

The rubber freeze plug loosened a bit, so it dripped coolant for a couple days, but tightened it up and it's been drip-free since.

So far so good.

Hauled some firewood tonight.

That dryer vent needs to be moved, but it's gonna be a pain.

Posted: 2/22/2016 12:26:54 AM EDT

[#11]

I just bought ball joints, drop arm, tie rod ends, and a new pair of work gloves. Hopefully I'll get to the replacements in the next month or so.

Hopefully this will reduce the wear on the front tires, which are getting burned up fast, and tighten up the steering.

I got an oil analysis done a while back:

Next oil sample goes into the mail tomorrow, about 2500 on this sample, which will get a TBN test to tell me how much longer I can run the oil.

Posted: 2/22/2016 1:19:20 AM EDT

[#12]

Quote History

Quoted:

I just bought ball joints, drop arm, tie rod ends, and a new pair of work gloves. Hopefully I'll get to the replacements in the next month or so.

Hopefully this will reduce the wear on the front tires, which are getting burned up fast, and tighten up the steering.

I got an oil analysis done a while back:

http://i.imgur.com/FaNErYm.png

Next oil sample goes into the mail tomorrow, about 2500 on this sample, which will get a TBN test to tell me how much longer I can run the oil.

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Awesome. How much does that run you?

Posted: 2/22/2016 12:48:39 PM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:Awesome. How much does that run you?

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Sample without TBN costs $28. With TBN it costs $38, so it pays for itself if I can get more miles out of the oil.

Posted: 2/29/2016 11:01:28 AM EDT

[#14]

I replaced the tie rod ends and the drop arm. Now it actually drives quite well. One finger steering control at 55+ instead of two-hand-white-knuckle steering.

Much tool abuse happened, and I had to cut one of the studs on the drop arm, because I couldn't get clearance without removing the pitman arm, which required removing the leaf spring, which would have required removing the front axle, which would have required removing the front drive-shaft. So, yeah.

I've now got a bunch more tools, only lightly abused.

The ball joints are actually fine -- surprisingly, so those didn't get replaced. I'm going to see if I can return them to NAPA to get the $140 back.

Note that this picture is taken with no-load on the front end at all... Those springs have like 2" of articulation, and next to no spring left in them.

The steering slop is almost entirely gone, I think the issue now is the fact that the leaf spring bushings are worn out completely, and it's got like 1/4" of play inside the leaf spring eye. But, I've got new leaf springs that aren't completely flat, and I'll be getting bushings this coming week. Hopefully the weather stays nice so I can bear to be in the garage and get the work done.

I also got some of the roof-rust taken care of. It's not pretty, but it'll get painted eventually:

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Posted: 3/4/2016 9:52:07 PM EDT

[#15]

Just got back the oil sample. Looks a lot better, almost no Fe and Al in it this time. I'm going to let this change go 4000-5000 miles instead of about 2500.

Posted: 3/20/2016 3:01:10 PM EDT

[#16]

I finally got around to checking the timing, after on Friday night it died while I was driving to the restaurant with my wife in the car... Like wouldn't re-start died. Finally after fiddling on the side of the country road in someone's front yard, it restarted, and seemed alright. I'm still not sure what went wrong.

I added 4 degrees of timing at idle, and now it dropped the 0-60 time to 14.5 seconds. 0-70 is 23 seconds. Before the timing increase, 0-60 was 18 seconds, and 0-70 was 26 seconds. So it's improving, lol.

Posted: 3/20/2016 5:42:43 PM EDT

[#17]

Haha, easy there speed racer! Keep up the good work on that truck.

Posted: 3/23/2016 8:58:43 AM EDT

[#18]

Since it's gotten warmer, I've noticed a "hard start" issue. It only happens if I drive the truck enough to get it up to temp, then let it sit for more than 30 minutes before driving it again. It will crank fine, battery voltage will be fine, but when it turns over, it acts like something is jamming the torque converter and starter. It eventually starts, but it doesn't seem like it wants to start.

Does this sound like heat-soak to the TBI? I've checked the timing, and that's totally fine. It almost seems like the gas is boiling in the TBI.

Posted: 3/23/2016 11:20:44 PM EDT

[#19]

Tough old rigs. I miss my old one.

Posted: 3/24/2016 12:40:37 AM EDT

[#20]

Quote History

Quoted:
Since it's gotten warmer, I've noticed a "hard start" issue. It only happens if I drive the truck enough to get it up to temp, then let it sit for more than 30 minutes before driving it again. It will crank fine, battery voltage will be fine, but when it turns over, it acts like something is jamming the torque converter and starter. It eventually starts, but it doesn't seem like it wants to start.

Does this sound like heat-soak to the TBI? I've checked the timing, and that's totally fine. It almost seems like the gas is boiling in the TBI.

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I don't think you are dealing with heat-soak with the TBI. Since the fuel doesn't sit in a bowl like a carb, I wouldn't think it would be an issue. I have owned/driven many TBI vehicles and I have never had a heat releated fuel issue.
Can you clarify that it cranks fine, but when it turns over it acts like something is jamming the torque converter and starter?
I personally would look into the starter. It may be getting heat soaked from the exhaust. If it is old, the problem will be more pronounced.

Posted: 3/24/2016 9:00:09 AM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
I don't think you are dealing with heat-soak with the TBI. Since the fuel doesn't sit in a bowl like a carb, I wouldn't think it would be an issue. I have owned/driven many TBI vehicles and I have never had a heat releated fuel issue.
Can you clarify that it cranks fine, but when it turns over it acts like something is jamming the torque converter and starter?
I personally would look into the starter. It may be getting heat soaked from the exhaust. If it is old, the problem will be more pronounced.

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Ok, I'll try to get someone to take a video of the next time I start it.

It will turn over fine, but when it's cranking, it seems like the starter is struggling to get enough torque to spin the engine. This only happens when I drive it until the engine is hot (up to temp) then let it sit for more than about 30 minutes before starting it again. If I try starting it immediately after turning the truck off, it starts fine. The battery is fine, it tests good under load, and the charging system is doing a good job.

The starter is a re-man unit from 2009 (at least that's the date-code) that came on the truck. Before I start it next time I'll check voltage.

I just put some race gas in it last night, I'll see if the issue still comes up with the race gas in the tank. The main reason for the race gas is to ensure the sound I'm hearing is an exhaust leak, and not pinging. So far (20 miles) I'm almost positive it's just an exhaust leak.

I put a new $50 head unit in to get some better sounding audio, and a USB-capable head unit in the truck... Afterwards, I found out why it sounds so bad.

Posted: 4/4/2016 12:04:09 PM EDT

[#22]

How do I correct the rear camber? Or do I not? It's a Chrysler 9.25"

Posted: 4/5/2016 1:38:21 AM EDT

[#23]

You don't.
But it looks like you could use some ball joints. Be advised, the guy running the alignment machine can make those numbers read almost anything he wants to show a customer.

Posted: 4/5/2016 1:45:01 PM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:
You don't.
But it looks like you could use some ball joints. Be advised, the guy running the alignment machine can make those numbers read almost anything he wants to show a customer.

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How does one tell that it needs ball joints by looking at the alignment numbers? I'm curious, because I'm almost positive the ball joints are still good.

The front leaf springs need all new bushings all the way around though.

Posted: 4/5/2016 2:23:58 PM EDT

[#25]

$640? Seriously? You stole it. That's a strait old truck.

Posted: 4/5/2016 3:04:37 PM EDT

[#26]

Quote History

Quoted:
$640? Seriously? You stole it. That's a strait old truck.

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Yep, and it gets better; I've put over 6k miles on it. So far it just needed:
$80 in transmission fluid
$100 transmission
$35 transmission dip stick
$9 air filter
$80 - oil changed (3x so far)
$600-something in new tires
$20 relay
$7 spark plug wires
$83 alignment
$1300-ish in gasoline
lots of time (probably 30 hours or so of wrenching and diagnostics)

I'm never going to break even, but hell yeah it's fun.

Posted: 4/7/2016 9:30:39 AM EDT

[#27]

I had this great idea:
I would put car wax on the little triangle windows, slather some RTV down on the seals, and close the windows partially to make a new seal surface.

Well... The good news is that they don't leak anymore. But also, they don't open.

Posted: 5/5/2016 4:09:50 PM EDT

[#28]

Truck's been good.

Had to tighten the u-joint bolts again, it started to shake a little... But they've still got some life left in them.

Posted: 5/13/2016 7:35:35 PM EDT

[#29]

Have you run a search on how to check ball joints?

Play on youtube or read it from a google search.

Basically you are going to jack up truck to unload the front tire and using a prybar or something put it under the pry bar and lift up. If you can "wiggle" the tire up and down you need to figure out where the wiggle is from.

Wheel bearings need to be tight. Really loose or worn ones can have play obviously.

Other than that, I call ball joints if there is play.

When I worked at a spring shop for a bit I learned all sorts of stuff not to do.

One thing some people do to try to sneak a vehicle through inspection, if the state has it, is to grease the ball joints. You are packing the grease in and hoping it remains in place so no slop is noted.

As far as the alignment comment, if you hook up an alignment setup and start nudging things this way or that way some stuff can change readings.

If you think of how old your truck is, the worn bushings you have mentioned, and some of the parts that might be worn, there is some play room in there.

With solid axles it gets a lot simpler to examine things I think.

I never learned much on alignments so the above is more my take on it, I hope I get corrected if I am wrong.

But ball joints need checked with a bit of force. Not just looking to see if it is slap worn out and ready to seperate by hand.

But youtube it or google it, I might not remember things as well as I think I do.

And for the price, good buy on the truck. Something like that is always an adventure and while it is frustrating I rather like the old stuff more than the new stuff.

Posted: 5/13/2016 9:00:15 PM EDT

[#30]

Yeah, I checked the ball joints. I put a big pry-bar on the spindle and gave it a good couple pulls and pushes.

The front spring bushings are trashed, but I don't quite have the correct tools to remove the front axle at home. I'll get around to it eventually once I buy new air tools.

Posted: 5/28/2016 7:04:59 PM EDT

[#31]

Painted the roof white with some Rustoleum High Performance White Enamel. Now it should be faster!

I sanded out all of the rust, down to mostly bare metal, hit it with some rust converter, then used a scotch-brite "heavy duty" pad to scuff everything else. It looks nice except for the overspray, lol.

Posted: 5/30/2016 11:37:45 PM EDT

[#32]

Last night on the way to a party, I noticed that the engine was ticking slightly at idle. I blipped the throttle, and it went away. Later that night, it came back while sitting at a red light.

This morning, I noticed it again while on my way to get some 10w-30 synthetic to do the oil change it had due. And I noticed it on the way home.

This is after dumping 1qt of fresh oil in...

Nothing on the stick at all. :( Not good at all. I guess I should probably get around to changing the 27 year old headcover gaskets so they stop leaking.

I drained 2.5qt out of the engine, put 5 in with a new filter.

The white roof really makes a big difference with the cabin heat, so there's that.

Posted: 6/8/2016 10:42:28 PM EDT

[#33]

Hopefully this will fix the valve cover leaks:

I got the factory oil pressure gauge installed. The 16 year old who owned it before must've put a mechanical oil gauge in, and removed the factory one. The thread adapter in the block still was leaking like a gut-shot pig, and had a bolt in it. Good god it was messy.

On the way home from Lowes getting painting supplies for a honey-do project, I got pulled over. The trooper knew me and gave me a warning for having no tail lights or plate light (was dusk-ish, so I had headlights on) and as a result, solved my issue of having no cluster lights for the past couple months, lol. I spent the next couple hours tracing out everything... Then I realized the only thing I changed was the radio, pulled the radio, replaced the #8 fuse, and it didn't blow. Turns out, there was a short to ground inside the head unit on the "lighting sense" line. I lifted the line, and it stopped shorting fuses. Go figure, a broken out of the box $30 wal-mart radio, heh.

Posted: 6/11/2016 8:19:56 AM EDT

[#34]

Quote History

Quoted:
Go figure, a broken out of the box $30 wal-mart radio, heh.

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Sounds like the kind of luck I would have!

Posted: 6/30/2016 10:43:42 AM EDT

[#35]

I figured out the issue with "hot start after sitting hot for a while":

The fuel lines run directly beside the left exhaust manifold. It really is fuel boiling. I've gotta make a shroud for it at some point.

Posted: 7/15/2016 10:20:21 PM EDT

[#36]

Any updates? Did you get the fuel line re-routed?

Posted: 7/15/2016 10:32:10 PM EDT

[#37]

No updates, I've been working on the 3/4 ton and stuff around the house.

I need to figure out how to re-route the lines, buy all the new soft lines (since there's no point in reusing 28 year old rubber) OR just fab a heat shield.

I think I may try using a shield first, then re-routing if that doesn't make a difference.

I did use it to tow some 16" 12' oak logs out of the woods. Low gear will break your neck in this truck, lol.

Posted: 7/29/2016 9:50:16 PM EDT

[#38]

OST since my son bought this truck's doppelganger a couple of months ago. Same paint, interior, engine. His has the 8 hole wheels though.

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Posted: 7/31/2016 11:05:39 AM EDT

[#39]

After this thread started I was seriously considering buying an old Ram Charger, until I saw the HMMWV thread. Got one of those instead.

Posted: 7/31/2016 12:28:19 PM EDT

[#40]

Quote History

Quoted:
After this thread started I was seriously considering buying an old Ram Charger, until I saw the HMMWV thread. Got one of those instead.

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I was actually looking at HMMWVs and CUCVs before I bought this one... So I guess it's a good thing I bought the RamCharger.

I just romped around a little bit in Regio in the yard a little bit ago. Apparently some water got into the Distributor again, because it was wet in there... Is there any fix that old mopar guys know?

Posted: 7/31/2016 3:24:08 PM EDT

[#41]

In the 26 years I've owned my W-150 pickup, I've never had water in the distributor, Use Mopar distributor caps, the fit is superior to the majority of aftermarket garbage. A thin coat of dielectric grease around the base as a preventative measure if you must.

Posted: 7/31/2016 4:27:25 PM EDT

[#42]

Quote History

Quoted:
In the 26 years I've owned my W-150 pickup, I've never had water in the distributor, Use Mopar distributor caps, the fit is superior to the majority of aftermarket garbage. A thin coat of dielectric grease around the base as a preventative measure if you must.

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Do you off-road or drive through lots of standing water?

Posted: 7/31/2016 5:16:29 PM EDT

[#43]

Son, she ain't a garage queen, by any stretch of the imagination. Over 350k miles on the original engine, two oil pumps, two timing chains, a water pump and miscellaneous electrical parts. Routine maintenance and a refinery full of gasoline to keep it running. Don't let the straight body fool you. They don't have to be bounced off of trees to be well used.

Posted: 7/31/2016 5:31:19 PM EDT

[#44]

Quote History

Quoted:
Son, she ain't a garage queen, by any stretch of the imagination. Over 350k miles on the original engine, two oil pumps, two timing chains, a water pump and miscellaneous electrical parts. Routine maintenance and a refinery full of gasoline to keep it running. Don't let the straight body fool you. They don't have to be bounced off of trees to be well used.

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That's great news for me, I always assumed that everyone had this issue with water in the distributor.

I'll pick up an OEM cap next time I buy parts.

Posted: 8/2/2016 4:44:34 AM EDT

[#45]

Quote History

Quoted:

I was actually looking at HMMWVs and CUCVs before I bought this one... So I guess it's a good thing I bought the RamCharger.

I just romped around a little bit in Regio in the yard a little bit ago. Apparently some water got into the Distributor again, because it was wet in there... Is there any fix that old mopar guys know?

View Quote View All Quotes

View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:
After this thread started I was seriously considering buying an old Ram Charger, until I saw the HMMWV thread. Got one of those instead.

I was actually looking at HMMWVs and CUCVs before I bought this one... So I guess it's a good thing I bought the RamCharger.

I just romped around a little bit in Regio in the yard a little bit ago. Apparently some water got into the Distributor again, because it was wet in there... Is there any fix that old mopar guys know?

OP, I'm the old mopar guy you were asking for.

Your distributor problem in very common.

What I've done on multiple trucks was to bend up a piece of flashing that will shed the water. Take out a couple of the screws that
attach your upper valance panel, (the part where your wipers are), and angle the flashing down toward your air cleaner housing.
Don't allow the flashing to rest on top of your wires.

Your problem is water running between the back of your hood and the valance, then dripping onto the top of the cap.

I've probably owned around 100 of that style truck over the past 40 years, in fact I've got 4 removable top RC's and 4 early trucks sitting in the yard
as I type this.

Not every truck have I had to perform this procedure on, however there have been many that I have.

Good luck OP!! Nice RC.

Posted: 8/13/2016 2:27:41 PM EDT

[#46]

The A/C died.

I had it idling while I was grabbing something in the garage with my Brother-In-Law sitting inside, and it vented the A/C system. He came hiking down the driveway, and said "The RamCharger just BLEW UP!" and couldn't describe it any better than that. So, I hiked up the drive to look, turned it on, the coolant gauge didn't show anything strange, so I cranked it. It fired right up. So I killed it, then popped the hood.

Initially, I thought it had just burped coolant everywhere, since the fluid all over the right side of the engine bay was bright neon green-yellow. Then when we finally got on our way, I discovered that the A/C wasn't blowing cold air anymore.

The R12/R134 conversion hookup must've blown a seal, venting all 44oz of refrigerant, and close to the 7oz of oil that it's supposed to hold. Naturally, the driveway just got seal-coated not even two hours ago, so I can't take it into my garage to see wtf is wrong. The A/C Clutch kicks on, the engine changes idle, and everything else looks good. I think it was just a seal in the conversion nozzle/hookup thing.

So, yeah, it's 98F here today, and there's no AC in the only vehicle that isn't behind 265' of freshly sealed asphalt.

Posted: 8/13/2016 3:02:55 PM EDT

[#47]

Belay my last. It was a seal, but not what I thought.

This little bugger.

Posted: 8/27/2016 10:02:55 AM EDT

[#48]

It's always something...

Now the 9.25 rear with limited slip is clacking. I checked the fluid level, and it's not terribly low, but it's got a pearlescent shimmer. SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, now I'm going to change the fluid and hope I don't find gear chunks.

Posted: 8/27/2016 10:12:35 AM EDT

[#49]

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Neat looking rig.

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Drove a few older ones in the Air Force. Nice one.

Posted: 8/29/2016 11:02:33 AM EDT

[#50]

Was working on putting my daughter's 240Sx 'vert back together so she could go back to school, and sent the kids to the store for some eggs to make breakfast. 45 minutes later call: "Ramcharger won't start. Can you come here and look at it?"

"Sure, where are the keys to my car? Your brother used them to move it out of the way."

"Don't you have them?"

"Nope."

"Uh, let me check...looks like they are in his pocket."

"Ok, let it cool for 5-10 minutes, try again, and if that doesn't work one of you needs to walk back with the keys."

15 minutes later in comes my son, huffing and puffing - ran all the way back (it's only anout 1/2 mile.) Went over there, used a bit of starter fluid, fires up but then stops, therefore no fuel. Disconnect supply and return at the throttle body - no fuel at all. Push the beast to the back of the lot (it was right in front of the store), reconnect the lines, jumper out the fuel pump relay, try to start - no joy. Fuuuuuu... On the way back in my car saw a wrecker dropping off a car. Pull over, ask if he can do a side job. Sure - $85. Fuuuuuu.... So now it awaits dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - 1989 RamCharger 4wd (Page 3 of 5)

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