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Posted: 10/24/2014 2:07:31 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted: Just replaced the heater core on wife's Tahoe. buttoning up the million fasteners, plugged in 400 connectors, hooked the battery up.... headlights work, heater controls operate, starter turns engine over as normal..... no fuel pressure, no start. Possible security system problem ? What should I look for ? Fuel pump. BTW, it is in the fuel tank.
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Posted: 10/24/2014 2:27:57 AM EDT
[#2]
Fuel pump is my guess too. The only thing that makes me doubt that, is the fact that you just unplugged 400 connectors.
Was it running good before the operation? |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 3:35:28 AM EDT
[#3]
Yes.. Running perfectly. Had strong antifreeze odor. Headache in ten minutes bad, fogged up windows.
found a small broken wire in harness, steering column. Soldered in a 3 inch extension. Starts and runs now. About 60 pieces of plastic trim to reinstall next. . 175,000 miles. Keep a spare fuel pump in stock. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 9:55:20 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Fuel pump is my guess too. The only thing that makes me doubt that, is the fact that you just unplugged 400 connectors. Was it running good before the operation? That is my more complete thought too: If you turn the ignition key to the normal on position, do you hear the fuel pump whirring from under the rear end? If you don't hear that, then you might have missed reconnecting that 401st connector. If you verify you have 12v running all of the way back to the pump, then that means your pump isn't working. |
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Posted: 10/24/2014 10:41:41 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That is my more complete thought too: If you turn the ignition key to the normal on position, do you hear the fuel pump whirring from under the rear end? If you don't hear that, then you might have missed reconnecting that 401st connector. If you verify you have 12v running all of the way back to the pump, then that means your pump isn't working. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Fuel pump is my guess too. The only thing that makes me doubt that, is the fact that you just unplugged 400 connectors. Was it running good before the operation? That is my more complete thought too: If you turn the ignition key to the normal on position, do you hear the fuel pump whirring from under the rear end? If you don't hear that, then you might have missed reconnecting that 401st connector. If you verify you have 12v running all of the way back to the pump, then that means your pump isn't working. This. |
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Posted: 10/26/2014 10:07:32 AM EDT
[#6]
Turn the key over without starting it, you should hear the pump prime. You might need to go press your ear next to it while someone else tries, if the pump is properly submerged in fuel, and thus quieted.
If you do NOT hear the pump prime, start cheap; check both the fuse and relay, make sure you didn't miss any connectors, measure for voltage at the harness. Check your grounds; there's a major one under the drivers' side door, going to the body mounting point on the frame, and some smaller ones further back on the drivers' side and one going from the fuse block to the body (iirc). If you do have to drop the tank, it's not horrible, but it sure does suck more if there's fuel in it. Siphon it out, undo the straps, lower it slowly, disconnect the terminals, lower it to the ground. |
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Posted: 10/28/2014 4:17:39 PM EDT
[#7]
thanks for all the tips guys.
Did indeed find a big fat connector un-bolted, bottom of steering column. Wife and son took the interior apart, one of them loosely placed the connector back into position, but not fastened. To maximize redundancy, I ripped apart the entire column, and disaSSembled the ignition switch contacts, stripped off the taped covering on the harness, ripped and repaired one of the tiny security wires first, before finding the detached connector. . Tahoe is running normally now, and makes good heat. Stereo system is not getting power. Both yellow and red wires at zero volts. fuses all good. |
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Posted: 10/28/2014 4:40:04 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Turn the key over without starting it, you should hear the pump prime. You might need to go press your ear next to it while someone else tries, if the pump is properly submerged in fuel, and thus quieted. If you do NOT hear the pump prime, start cheap; check both the fuse and relay, make sure you didn't miss any connectors, measure for voltage at the harness. Check your grounds; there's a major one under the drivers' side door, going to the body mounting point on the frame, and some smaller ones further back on the drivers' side and one going from the fuse block to the body (iirc). If you do have to drop the tank, it's not horrible, but it sure does suck more if there's fuel in it. Siphon it out, undo the straps, lower it slowly, disconnect the terminals, lower it to the ground. I have done this enough times that I bought a spare Carter (or Holley) electric fuel pump. I mounted it in an old tool box with a 12v battery, 7AH like is used in many UPS units. I have a deadman switch and 3/8 hoses, along with lengths of steel fuel line to get to the bottom of many tanks. It will drain a tank into your other vehicle or into 5 gallon cans pretty quick. It is great to evacuate fuel from bikes or vehicles in storage and to allow rotation of fresh gas. |
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