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Basic
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Posted: 9/30/2012 5:23:40 PM EST
I just picked up a TTR125 dritbike and it runs well but the tubing from my carburator is leaking. looks like over flow tubing. Maybe a seal/gasket


It leaks even when the bike is not runningm and the gas is turned

what do you think it is?

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Link Posted: 9/30/2012 5:38:30 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/30/2012 5:39:46 PM EST by bloodsport2885]
I know the carbs may be different but whenever this has happened on a Harley (and it happens way too much) its usually a stuck needle.

If the bike has been sitting before sale I'm betting a little carb cleaner in the right places will end it.
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Link Posted: 9/30/2012 7:34:45 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/30/2012 7:47:39 PM EST by JonJR]
Originally Posted By bloodsport2885:
I know the carbs may be different but whenever this has happened on a Harley (and it happens way too much) its usually a stuck needle.

If the bike has been sitting before sale I'm betting a little carb cleaner in the right places will end it.


I was told that they didnt use it much and kept gas in it for a long time. The bik looks like it has very little use.

carb cleaner where?

you mean one that you pour in to the gas tank?

Or, taking it apart and spraying it down?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxX232tCAVo

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Link Posted: 9/30/2012 9:29:33 PM EST
It is the carb float.

Here are the options-

Float has a hole and is fulle of fuel.

Needle is not seating properly.



Try tapping on the float bowl with the handle of a screwdriver. Sometimes that knocks the float loose. If not simply pull the carb and rebuild it.Very simple

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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 2:48:43 AM EST
it is the float needle sticking, and letting more fuel in than needed.

Take the carb off.....might as well give it a good cleaning while you are checking/setting the float height.

should fix it.


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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 8:48:29 AM EST
Needle valve or float, maybe float level is off, and petcock needs to be rebuilt.

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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 9:41:56 AM EST
check to make sure its not the carburetor drain tube. There should be a little screw on the back of the carb connected to one of those tubes.

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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 4:42:23 PM EST
what about pouring carb cleaner in the tank

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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 4:51:26 PM EST

Originally Posted By JonJR:
what about pouring carb cleaner in the tank

Won't do a fucking thing.

It's the float, trust the good advice given and fix it. It's not hard to do, it's just basic bike stuff all owners should be able to do.


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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 5:12:50 PM EST
More than likely caused by ethanol fuel. It loves to gum up the brass parts inside your carb.

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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 5:43:14 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/1/2012 5:45:09 PM EST by JonJR]
Originally Posted By cpl0313:
More than likely caused by ethanol fuel. It loves to gum up the brass parts inside your carb.


unlike the prior owner I put stabile in all my gas cans



looked on ebay and the rebuild kit costs 38 dollars and so does a new aftermarket carb

Minkuni Carb is 125 bucks...I think these are the ones used on the original bikes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Carburetor-YAMAHA-TTR125-TTR-125-Carb-2000-2004-/150844634002?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231f0a7392&vxp=mtr

aftermarket carb 38
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Yamaha-TTR125-TTR-125-Carburetor-2000-2004-/190695494945?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c66565521&vxp=mtr


should I just buy the aftermarket kit and rebuild the current one as a spare?
is the aftermarket carb junk or will work just as well?

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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 5:56:33 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/1/2012 5:57:35 PM EST by swingset]

Originally Posted By JonJR:
Originally Posted By cpl0313:
More than likely caused by ethanol fuel. It loves to gum up the brass parts inside your carb.


unlike the prior owner I put stabile in all my gas cans



looked on ebay and the rebuild kit costs 38 dollars and so does a new aftermarket carb

Minkuni Carb is 125 bucks...I think these are the ones used on the original bikes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Carburetor-YAMAHA-TTR125-TTR-125-Carb-2000-2004-/150844634002?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231f0a7392&vxp=mtr

aftermarket carb 38
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Yamaha-TTR125-TTR-125-Carburetor-2000-2004-/190695494945?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c66565521&vxp=mtr


should I just buy the aftermarket kit and rebuild the current one as a spare?
is the aftermarket carb junk or will work just as well?

You likely don't need a new carb, or a rebuild kit. I'd bet my paycheck a good cleaning and inspection, possibly a cheap float valve at most will fix your problem.

Start with the video above, take your carb apart and clean and inspect it....check the float valve and the float height. Clean the jets and the passageways with carb cleaner and compressed air, assemble it and see how it runs.

If you wanna really be proactive, take the jets to your local Yammie dealer and get a new pilot and main jet....but probably not necessary.
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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 6:01:06 PM EST
Originally Posted By swingset:

Originally Posted By JonJR:
Originally Posted By cpl0313:
More than likely caused by ethanol fuel. It loves to gum up the brass parts inside your carb.


unlike the prior owner I put stabile in all my gas cans



looked on ebay and the rebuild kit costs 38 dollars and so does a new aftermarket carb

Minkuni Carb is 125 bucks...I think these are the ones used on the original bikes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Carburetor-YAMAHA-TTR125-TTR-125-Carb-2000-2004-/150844634002?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231f0a7392&vxp=mtr

aftermarket carb 38
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Yamaha-TTR125-TTR-125-Carburetor-2000-2004-/190695494945?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c66565521&vxp=mtr


should I just buy the aftermarket kit and rebuild the current one as a spare?
is the aftermarket carb junk or will work just as well?

You likely don't need a new carb, or a rebuild kit. I'd bet my paycheck a good cleaning and inspection, possibly a cheap float valve at most will fix your problem.

Start with the video above, take your carb apart and clean and inspect it....check the float valve and the float height. Clean the jets and the passageways with carb cleaner and compressed air, assemble it and see how it runs.

If you wanna really be proactive, take the jets to your local Yammie dealer and get a new pilot and main jet....but probably not necessary.


This.....

Also, the o-ring on the float needle valve seat is probably cracked, fuel will get past it even if the float is closing the needle.
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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 6:03:25 PM EST
Originally Posted By swingset:

Originally Posted By JonJR:
Originally Posted By cpl0313:
More than likely caused by ethanol fuel. It loves to gum up the brass parts inside your carb.


unlike the prior owner I put stabile in all my gas cans



looked on ebay and the rebuild kit costs 38 dollars and so does a new aftermarket carb

Minkuni Carb is 125 bucks...I think these are the ones used on the original bikes
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mikuni-Carburetor-YAMAHA-TTR125-TTR-125-Carb-2000-2004-/150844634002?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231f0a7392&vxp=mtr

aftermarket carb 38
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Yamaha-TTR125-TTR-125-Carburetor-2000-2004-/190695494945?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c66565521&vxp=mtr


should I just buy the aftermarket kit and rebuild the current one as a spare?
is the aftermarket carb junk or will work just as well?

You likely don't need a new carb, or a rebuild kit. I'd bet my paycheck a good cleaning and inspection, possibly a cheap float valve at most will fix your problem.

Start with the video above, take your carb apart and clean and inspect it....check the float valve and the float height. Clean the jets and the passageways with carb cleaner and compressed air, assemble it and see how it runs.

If you wanna really be proactive, take the jets to your local Yammie dealer and get a new pilot and main jet....but probably not necessary.


have 3 days that I'm back from work this month and want to take it riding. dont have time to take it apart and play with it then put it back to see if it works... to frustrating. Would rather buy another one for 38 bucks and take my time playing with the original one and have spare parts. I just dont know if the 38 dollar aftermarket one will work well or if I should just buy the 115 dollar minkuni

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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 7:13:12 PM EST
Dude it would take an hour, tops, to clean your carb and put it back in there.

Do you want to keep asking questions until someone tells you that your plan is the best one?

Ok, permission granted to dump some miracle fluid in the tank and buy a new carb. I'm sure it'll be jetted correctly and require no adjustment to the fuel screw or needle to be back to perfect that will take away from your riding time.
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Link Posted: 10/1/2012 7:32:33 PM EST
Originally Posted By swingset:
Dude it would take an hour, tops, to clean your carb and put it back in there.

Do you want to keep asking questions until someone tells you that your plan is the best one?

Ok, permission granted to dump some miracle fluid in the tank and buy a new carb. I'm sure it'll be jetted correctly and require no adjustment to the fuel screw or needle to be back to perfect that will take away from your riding time.


If its that easy to do then I'll give it a go. unfortunately if I need a replacement part and the stores in my area dont have itI'll have to wait another month to go riding with my GF

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Link Posted: 10/2/2012 2:45:04 AM EST
swing set is right..

i will add to do this and give it a try first before you shell out a bunch of cash.

turn off fuel petcock.

start up engine and run it out of gas.

open fuel petcock.

start bike and then close fuel petcock.

run engine out of gas.

open fuel petcock.

start bike.

turn off bike and see if whatever was making the float needle from closing properly flushed itself out and into the bottom of your float bowl.

much luck....

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Link Posted: 10/2/2012 6:34:45 PM EST
There's a drain screw on the bottom, just open it and let it run into a container.....
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Link Posted: 10/3/2012 4:52:14 AM EST
will try that first before taking it apart

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Link Posted: 10/3/2012 6:33:11 AM EST

Originally Posted By JonJR:
will try that first before taking it apart

You should do that before taking it apart anyway, but it's not going to fix anything.

Have you tried praying?
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Link Posted: 10/3/2012 7:57:44 AM EST
Im not home until Sunday
I'll have my gf try it before I get there

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Link Posted: 10/3/2012 8:15:03 AM EST
Adjust your float height. Seriously, 5 minutes maybe? 2 screws? I tweaked mine half a dozen times yesterday in under an hour.

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Link Posted: 10/3/2012 11:08:22 AM EST
Originally Posted By StealthCRF:
Adjust your float height. Seriously, 5 minutes maybe? 2 screws? I tweaked mine half a dozen times yesterday in under an hour.


do I have to take it apart to do this?


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Link Posted: 10/3/2012 12:21:48 PM EST

Originally Posted By JonJR:
Originally Posted By StealthCRF:
Adjust your float height. Seriously, 5 minutes maybe? 2 screws? I tweaked mine half a dozen times yesterday in under an hour.


do I have to take it apart to do this?


You could watch the video I posted above, and probably avoid your next 3 or 4 questions.
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Link Posted: 10/3/2012 3:42:09 PM EST
Probably your float. I don't know about your bike, but some systems have a PRIME setting on the petcock, make sure that yours is on RUN and not on PRIME.

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Link Posted: 10/3/2012 3:51:21 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/3/2012 3:52:43 PM EST by JonJR]


found a another video...but youre right

I think I'll be ok working on it


Thanks guys!

Youtube

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Link Posted: 10/4/2012 7:54:10 AM EST
Originally Posted By StealthCRF:
Adjust your float height. Seriously, 5 minutes maybe? 2 screws? I tweaked mine half a dozen times yesterday in under an hour.



You should never need to "tweak" your float height unless you're replacing the float, float needle, or float needle seat. If you had to adjust it, you most likely need a new float needle as the spring on the internal pluger has taken a set, or your float has developed a hole/crack and is filling with fuel.


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Link Posted: 10/4/2012 6:44:22 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/4/2012 6:46:09 PM EST by StealthCRF]
Yeah well I had the carb laying in pieces in an old brake pad box the past 2 weeks while having my cylinder bored out due to heavy scarring after a little abuse on a 105degree day. I was trying to get it at as high of a float point as possible without leaking so that I could play around with some different airbox/filter setups and stay on the safe side until I get it set where I want it and order new jets and needle.

eta: Why in the world did they (suzuki) ever think it was a good idea to put a CV carb on a thumper

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Link Posted: 10/5/2012 3:38:06 AM EST
A TTR125 as all TTR's are made by Yamaha, not Suzuki.

Also, a cylinder should not be fucked up by riding it "hard" on a 105 degree day. 105 degree days happen all the time here and my wife's bike (TTR125L) has never had an issue.

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Link Posted: 10/6/2012 1:58:21 PM EST
Originally Posted By StealthCRF:
Why in the world did they (suzuki) ever think it was a good idea to put a CV carb on a thumper [/div][/div]

Really?

Ask Kawasaki. KLR650
Ask Honda. XL650R



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Link Posted: 10/8/2012 8:09:03 AM EST
Update....

Got home last night and took the carb off today.

the problem was the pin on the float. The meal piece that holds the pin needed to be bent a tiny bit. did it to much the first time and didnt getany gas..wouldnt start. Second try and it started and didnt leak.

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Link Posted: 10/8/2012 7:40:08 PM EST
[Last Edit: 10/8/2012 7:40:49 PM EST by StealthCRF]

Originally Posted By KA3B:
Originally Posted By StealthCRF:
Why in the world did they (suzuki) ever think it was a good idea to put a CV carb on a thumper [/div][/div]

Really?

Ask Kawasaki. KLR650
Ask Honda. XL650R


[div]
[/div]I know they weren't the only ones, but it still doesn't make it a good idea. IMO


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Link Posted: 10/9/2012 9:15:39 AM EST
Originally Posted By JonJR:
Update....

Got home last night and took the carb off today.

the problem was the pin on the float. The meal piece that holds the pin needed to be bent a tiny bit. did it to much the first time and didnt getany gas..wouldnt start. Second try and it started and didnt leak.



FWIW, there is a factory-recommended "proper" float height that it should be adjusted to. Unless you have changed a float needle, needle seat, or float assembly, you shouldn't need to adjust the float. You may have temporarily postponed replacing the float needle, but it's most likely shot...along with the needle seat and o-ring/seal.


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Link Posted: 10/9/2012 4:53:21 PM EST
took it to the woods and it ran fine....no leaking

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