First off here is my flickr link:

LINK

Here is my issue. I have been taking some really high speed shots of muzzle ends recently.  I'm trying to capture the bullet as it escapes the muzzle. Perhaps I don't have the right equipment, but I thought I'd ask here.  I'm running a Nikon D3200, and my main light source was an alienbee B800 and I noticed that if I took my shutter speed any faster than 1/300 it would cut the image.(meaning the end result was an image where a good portion of the picture is just black, this being the shutter as its closing possibly?) Now keep in mind that I'm not using any radio remote for the B800. I figured using the cord with the hot shoe plug in would be faster, but perhaps I am wrong.  Because I wasn't able to get the shutter speed to the 1/3000 to 1/4000 area, I wasn't able to catch bullet in flight type images.  

This is the first time I attempted to take a shot of this mind you.  So I'm assuming that one problem I'm having is that the B800 is not responsive or fast enough to work with such high shutter speeds, and that I need a speedlight.  I'm also assuming I would need some sort of sound activated timer to fire the camera as well?  

I don't have a speedlight, and I am wondering if any speedlight will work? In either case, here is one image of a few that turned out cool enough for me to keep:

I don't think you'll get much faster than a 1/250 or 1/300 sync speed.  Hot lights might be a better bet or if I remember correctly, the Nikon SB800 or SB900 has the ability to provide flash at higher than normal sync speeds, but I don't recall how or why.

Sorry this wasn't much help.

You will not get the results you are looking for with speedlights.

Google "high speed photography".

The reason you get that "clip" is because at fast shutter speeds, the rear curtain is already closing before the front curtain has cleared the frame. So, only a portion of the frame is exposed at any given time. High speed flash sync fires the flash multiple times to correspond with each section of the frame being exposed.

Using high speed sync with a Nikon speedlight (or good clone) will let you run shutter speeds of 1/8000 I know for sure. But even 1/8000 is still gonna get you a blurry bullet. I've used the speedlight to trigger the slave on an Einstein which can have very short flash durations and MIGHT be quick enough. Your issue is gonna be more how to trigger the whole rig.

In interests of fair warning, HSS wastes a TON of your flash power so just be prepared.

As far as I am aware bullet in flight type stuff takes some specialized equipment.

Sound triggers and really bright lights and stupid high ISO and shutter speeds.

This.  Can't do it with just any light, unfortunately.  

Short answer,  although you can sync much faster than the typical 1/250 or 1/300 with auto FP on a Nikon, I don't believe this option is available on the D3200

I use it all the time and routinely sync 1/4000 or faster with a Nikon Speedlight

Sync speed is only half the problem, Other issue is the flash duration ( you need a fast duration to stop motion )

The Alien Bee 800 tops out a about 1/1000 since , just like most other monolights like the Elnchrom RX etc

This is why the Einstein is such a step above the Alien Bees ....in action mode it can sync much faster .  

This is a good read explaining why IGBT flashes like the Einsten have much shorter duration capability

http://www.paulcbuff.com/sfe-flashduration.php

Speedlights by design have very short duration

Having said all, that ,even with good triggers such as Pocket Wizard running Hypersync and a short duration flash like the Einstein or Speelights, it is still not fast enough to completely freeze bullet motion

If you do the math, even at 1/4000 SS , the bullet moves enough that it will blur

Okay, there are generally two methods to high speed photography.

1. Get a lot of light + a high FPS video camera. The massive amount of light overcomes the incredibly short shutter speeds and the resultant under exposure. Then pick a still frame out of the video. This method is usually limited in resolution.

2. Still camera in a dark environment. You open the shutter for a relatively long period of time (can range into seconds). You use a burst of light to capture the action. Since the subject is only illuminated for the duration of the flash, it "freezes" the motion. Obviously, the faster the action/subject, the shorter the burst of light. Strobes have the shortest flash duration at the lowest setting. The higher powers are usually achieved by firing the strobe for a longer period resulting in more light output.

High speed flash sync is completely  useless and irrelevant in this kind of application.

Natural light.
Projectile just forward of the muzzle smoke.