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User Panel
User Panel
CO, USA
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Posted: 2/17/2017 3:42:55 PM EDT
I am new to reloading. I am working with a a Hornady single stage press kit and Forester Dies for 6.5 Creedmoor, the sizing die is a full length, sizing die. I am reloading for precision. Its also important to note that up to this point, I am loading once fired brass from two different rifles, presently the brass is mixed together (will be keeping the brass separate moving forward).
I am in need of precision gauges and plan on buying the Hornady L-N-L: COAL Gauge, Headspace gauge, and OGIVE gauge in the near future so I can have better data to work with. If you recommend a different product/products, please let me know. While setting-up, playing around/getting to know the basics of reloading and developing my first few batches of loads I have noticed a difference in length (measured OAL with micrometer) in the resized brass. Specifically, I was loading batches with different seating depths measuring by OAL with my micrometer (again, I am aware I need gauges to do this correctly, but I am just experimenting with my new equipment.) My thought process was how can my seating depth test be accurate if the brass I am using is different lengths? So this brings me to want a better understanding of FL sizing, and how the variations in the length of resized brass will effect my loads. - Is this due to the fact that I am sizing brass fired from two different rifles? - Is my FL sizing die set-up correctly? I followed the instructions provided by Forster; which where pretty basic without much detail. Any tips/ticks about how to best set-up a FL sizing die would be appreciated. - Or is this just normal, to be expected from fired brass? Lastly, I am interested in bump sizing. Once I have my brass sorted by the rifle which fired it I would like to give this a try. I understand the what and why but am unclear about the how. - Its my understanding that I use my FL sizing die, backed out of the press so that I only "bump" the shoulder. How do I set up my die to do this? Thanks, Dave |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 2/17/2017 4:48:43 PM EDT
[#1]
The only thing i can say to this, considering i am a new re-loader as well and i use the Lee Classic Hand Loader, is that i had the same issue with the readings on my calipers. Every OAL was different but that would be because the nose of the round is different on each round. So to counter that i made sure that i was loading to the proper seating with a single bullet (instead of doing multiple then measuring each one) to get the right depth. It worked. First loads i worked on gave me a 1/4" group at 100 yards. Friggen tack driver.
The other thing that you can do to eliminate variables is weight your bullets. I did that for my 168gr Sierra HPBT. The most common weights i was getting was 167.7, 168.0, and 168.1gr. I loaded my first batch with just 168.1gr bullets with my Case length at 2.005" +/- .001". Mind you these lengths do not apply to 6.5 Creed but its just a variable you can eliminate. After that just determine the OAL of your round from the max OAL in your rifle. Multiple ways of doing it. Anyway, i hope this helps abit |
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Posted: 2/18/2017 8:15:10 AM EDT
[#2]
Originally Posted By DenverDave:
I am new to reloading. I am working with a a Hornady single stage press kit and Forester Dies for 6.5 Creedmoor, the sizing die is a full length, sizing die. I am reloading for precision. Its also important to note that up to this point, I am loading once fired brass from two different rifles, presently the brass is mixed together (will be keeping the brass separate moving forward). I am in need of precision gauges and plan on buying the Hornady L-N-L: COAL Gauge, Headspace gauge, and OGIVE gauge in the near future so I can have better data to work with. If you recommend a different product/products, please let me know. While setting-up, playing around/getting to know the basics of reloading and developing my first few batches of loads I have noticed a difference in length (measured OAL with micrometer) in the resized brass. Specifically, I was loading batches with different seating depths measuring by OAL with my micrometer (again, I am aware I need gauges to do this correctly, but I am just experimenting with my new equipment.) My thought process was how can my seating depth test be accurate if the brass I am using is different lengths? So this brings me to want a better understanding of FL sizing, and how the variations in the length of resized brass will effect my loads. - Is this due to the fact that I am sizing brass fired from two different rifles? - Is my FL sizing die set-up correctly? I followed the instructions provided by Forster; which where pretty basic without much detail. Any tips/ticks about how to best set-up a FL sizing die would be appreciated. - Or is this just normal, to be expected from fired brass? Lastly, I am interested in bump sizing. Once I have my brass sorted by the rifle which fired it I would like to give this a try. I understand the what and why but am unclear about the how. - Its my understanding that I use my FL sizing die, backed out of the press so that I only "bump" the shoulder. How do I set up my die to do this? Thanks, Dave Those gauges will work fine. You need a gauge to be measure the brass at the datum line of the shoulder as you only want to bump that back .001-002" max so you are not overworking the brass with can lead to head separations. You also need the ogive tool as that is where you should be measuring your OAL, not the tip. Figure the OAL to the lands in your rifles and then start at about .020" off the lands. Your seated bullet OAL won't be effected by your brass OAL as you are pushing the bullet into the case mount and not using the brass mouth in any part of your measurement. That said you need a trimmer to trim your brass to the same length. 1.910" is the trim to length for the 6.5 Creedmoor. You also need to chamfer the case mouth so the bullet seats smoothly without being scratched up and deburr the outside of the mouth. Brass stretches when sized and that brass that is once fired might not have been perfectly the same OAL when it was loaded at the factory so your loading probably has nothing to do with the variances. It's normal for once fired factory cases to be a little different. Getting the brass to the same OAL is something that is done after FL sizing for a reason though. In FL sizing the thing you need to worry about is that you are only bumping the shoulder back .001-002" max. When you get the head space tool in you can check your once fired cases and compare to your sized cases. If your cases you sized are sized more than the .002" you can still use them but the next time you size make sure to set up your die correctly. When setting your FL die up having a head space gauge is helpful as you can check the bump as you screw the die in and send the case up into the die. If not sizing enough screw it in a little more. After you get your bump then you want to check to make sure the case fits in your rifle chamber. It should. Then you are done. Lock it down. As for bump sizing, don't worry about that as your FL die is going to size the case by the time you have it far enough down to bump the shoulder. FL sizing doesn't mean it won't be accurate ammo. I FL all my Creedmoor ammo and it's very accurate. Being a new hand loader it's best to use the KISS principle now and just FL and get down the methods and techniques. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 2/19/2017 3:13:31 PM EDT
[#3]
first off are both of your creed's bolt's or gas or one of each?
Second. are you planning on trying to find a load that works well in both guns or best for each? depending on those two answers you have a few ways you could go about it. 1. keep brass sorted by gun 2. if either is a gas gun then FL size your brass, if one or both are bolt guns I'd reccomend getting a cheap lee collet neck die then neck size 2-3 loadings (or intill you feel it getting hard to close the bolt) once that happens FL size and bump the shoulder back .002" if you neck size you'll likely still have to keep brass sorted by gun unless you get lucky and there identical chambers. 3. find where the lands are for each gun and get the hornady oal tool and measure to the ogive like stated above. .020" off the lands is a good starting point. 4. find the nodes for each gun. if you find a similar node between the two guns. then you may get away with one load per gun. if there nowhere close you'll have to decide if you want to sacrifice accuracy for convenience. |
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Posted: 2/20/2017 10:21:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: popnfresh]
[#4]
If you are using brass from two different chambers of different headspace you are goig to have difficulty trying to size them all the same with one die setting.
When I am working with brass that is different, I set the long ones(headspace) aside and redo them rather than oversizing all the rest just to get the stubborn ones where I need them. Case overall length won't effect seating depth other than a much longer neck may have more friction causing the bullet to seat a little shallower. And of course don't bother measuring round oal, measure it once to make sure they fit in the mag with room to spare and be done with it. From then on measure base to ogive. I got two different boxes of new Lapua brass that I mixed and had issues with seating depth variations. Neck wall thicknesses(neck tension) were all the same but it was clear the difference in seating pressure was causing it, I annealed them all and the seating problems went away. So differences in brass can cause a few issues. |
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