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Posted: 7/17/2015 11:11:13 PM EDT
Been cleaning up after some storms lately. Lightning & power spikes got several items around here. Lost my garage door opener, 2 direct TV receivers, cable modem, & one wireless router. I thought 2 routers, but one is OK after factory reset. I just got around to checking rig. Booted up my (Win 7 Pro) PC just fine, but there was no TS-590 ports.
Radio was disconnected from the outside world ( I thought ), except for ground. The PC was still connected to the radio via USB. PC was powered down, but something got thru. Everything is plugged into a good surge protector & none were tripped. Purchased rig 10/09/2013, so mine is out of the warrantee period. I tried reinstalling com software, full resets, 2 different USB cables, & brand new backup power supply. Even took rig to living room PC, installed com port driver & that machine doesn't see it either. Both PC's USB ports work fine with other devices. I guess I should take the time to unplug everything from everything when not in use, including the USB cable. Just can't be home every minute. Sucks the big one! Will most likely have to pack it up for repair. I'll call Kenwood next week. Noticed nikdfish posted he had same issue & his is under repair. Mine will also xmit & receive fine, just no USB port. Yahoo group has several posts with same trouble. At this point I hope it's just the USB controller & can be fixed fairly quickly. I'll be out of the game for a while |
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[#1]
Sorry to hear you got bit by the same bug!
You may want to look into the various possibilities for USB isolation. I bought an industrial style hub with ESD & over-voltage protection built in along with a case ground. You can find simple in-line isolators starting at about $35 (adafruit) and going up from there - one at Mouser (their part# 909-USB-ISO) is available for about $41. I also made sure to add the desk PC to the central ground point (ground strap attached at the power suppy/case mounting screw). Nick |
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[#2]
That really sucks, guys! I hope it's a quick turn around for you both. This should be a reminder for everyone to disconnect everything when a storm approaches. I don't do this completely, but I'm going to from now on, if I can.
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[#3]
I got hit on May 31st. Took out a USB port and Ethernet port on my home PC (10 years old and was planning to replace it later this year anyhow - still works otherwise with replacement network card), WRT54G router, web camera, SlingBox 500, cable modem, SDR dongle, Raspberry Pi, MFJ-949D and RS-50A power supply (which I intend to fix with help from Astron - just have to make time to call them and walk through diagnostics as they told me they would do). I also want to work on the 949D at some point too but I replaced it with a 949E. Damage came in around $600 and was well below any deductible so I just ate it. Thankfully none of my radio gear got fried.
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[#4]
HS, if you are sending it in to Kenwood Service Center, East (Va. Beach), be sure to include a copy of the sales receipt if you think there is a chance for a warranty repair. The central Kenwood TS told me a USB failure would probably be handled that way "unless there are visible signs of over-voltage".
Also, they want contact info (email & phone), address (for the return shipping). If it is non-warranty work, they will call for a CC if > $150 & will COD if less unless you have already provided a CC # with the other enclosure items. You can check their web site, or call their #, to be sure about what they ask for. The web site is avsl.net & the Kenwood service center (east) number is (757) 340-1702. Nick |
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[#5]
Ouch.
I've bought parts at Kenwood Service Center, East....they seem like a good bunch. Hope it doesn't sting too much. 73 Derek |
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[#6]
Quoted:
HS, if you are sending it in to Kenwood Service Center, East (Va. Beach), be sure to include a copy of the sales receipt if you think there is a chance for a warranty repair. The central Kenwood TS told me a USB failure would probably be handled that way "unless there are visible signs of over-voltage". Also, they want contact info (email & phone), address (for the return shipping). If it is non-warranty work, they will call for a CC if > $150 & will COD if less unless you have already provided a CC # with the other enclosure items. You can check their web site, or call their #, to be sure about what they ask for. The web site is avsl.net & the Kenwood service center (east) number is (757) 340-1702. Nick View Quote Good info, thanks. |
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[#8]
Quoted:
Insurance? View Quote I have a $1k deductible. So far it has cost me a garage door opener logic board $81 + shipping (motor was fine), wireless router $40, & $50 for DirecTV to come out & replace 2 receivers. I picked up a replacement cable modem free at local provider. Hoping I can get rig fixed for a reasonable cost & call it good. |
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[#9]
Quoted:
Been cleaning up after some storms lately. Lightning & power spikes got several items around here. Lost my garage door opener, 2 direct TV receivers, cable modem, & one wireless router. I thought 2 routers, but one is OK after factory reset. I just got around to checking rig. Booted up my (Win 7 Pro) PC just fine, but there was no TS-590 ports. Radio was disconnected from the outside world ( I thought ), except for ground. The PC was still connected to the radio via USB. PC was powered down, but something got thru. Everything is plugged into a good surge protector & none were tripped. Purchased rig 10/09/2013, so mine is out of the warrantee period. I tried reinstalling com software, full resets, 2 different USB cables, & brand new backup power supply. Even took rig to living room PC, installed com port driver & it doesn't see it either. Both PC's USB ports work fine with other devices. I guess I should take the time to unplug everything from everything when not in use, including the USB cable. Just can't be home every minute. Sucks the big one! Will most likely have to pack it up for repair. I'll call Kenwood next week. Noticed nikdfish posted he had same issue & his is under repair. Mine will also xmit & receive fine, just no USB port. Yahoo group has several posts with same trouble. At this point I hope it's just the USB controller & can be fixed fairly quickly. I'll be out of the game for a while View Quote How comfortable do you feel opening it up and checking the opto-isolator on the mainboard? The part you're looking at is D901, and it's going to be TINY, and right next to the USB port. If it's not the opto-isolator, it's going to be L916, the inductor that tries to filter out USB data noise. D901 is indicated as "surge protection" in the service manual, and it appears as though L916 could serve as a secondary protection device. L904 and L905 would be my next two guesses, they're on the power side of the USB port, ground and VBUS respectively. Looking at the schematic, it looks like USB section and the DIN-9 Serial port are two different circuits. Does the DIN-9 port still work? If you're uncomfortable replacing them yourself, we might be able to meet somewhere and I can do it for you. It looks like a simple order-the-parts, and then swap-them-in kind of thing. ETA: I should mention that the particular package these parts are in will require a hot-air rework station. ETA2: D901 can be bought here |
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[#10]
Quoted:
How comfortable do you feel opening it up and checking the opto-isolator on the mainboard? The part you're looking at is D901, and it's going to be TINY, and right next to the USB port. If it's not the opto-isolator, it's going to be L916, the inductor that tries to filter out USB data noise. D901 is indicated as "surge protection" in the service manual, and it appears as though L916 could serve as a secondary protection device. L904 and L905 would be my next two guesses, they're on the power side of the USB port, ground and VBUS respectively. Looking at the schematic, it looks like USB section and the DIN-9 Serial port are two different circuits. Does the DIN-9 port still work? If you're uncomfortable replacing them yourself, we might be able to meet somewhere and I can do it for you. It looks like a simple order-the-parts, and then swap-them-in kind of thing. ETA: I should mention that the particular package these parts are in will require a hot-air rework station. ETA2: D901 can be bought here View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Been cleaning up after some storms lately. Lightning & power spikes got several items around here. Lost my garage door opener, 2 direct TV receivers, cable modem, & one wireless router. I thought 2 routers, but one is OK after factory reset. I just got around to checking rig. Booted up my (Win 7 Pro) PC just fine, but there was no TS-590 ports. Radio was disconnected from the outside world ( I thought ), except for ground. The PC was still connected to the radio via USB. PC was powered down, but something got thru. Everything is plugged into a good surge protector & none were tripped. Purchased rig 10/09/2013, so mine is out of the warrantee period. I tried reinstalling com software, full resets, 2 different USB cables, & brand new backup power supply. Even took rig to living room PC, installed com port driver & it doesn't see it either. Both PC's USB ports work fine with other devices. I guess I should take the time to unplug everything from everything when not in use, including the USB cable. Just can't be home every minute. Sucks the big one! Will most likely have to pack it up for repair. I'll call Kenwood next week. Noticed nikdfish posted he had same issue & his is under repair. Mine will also xmit & receive fine, just no USB port. Yahoo group has several posts with same trouble. At this point I hope it's just the USB controller & can be fixed fairly quickly. I'll be out of the game for a while How comfortable do you feel opening it up and checking the opto-isolator on the mainboard? The part you're looking at is D901, and it's going to be TINY, and right next to the USB port. If it's not the opto-isolator, it's going to be L916, the inductor that tries to filter out USB data noise. D901 is indicated as "surge protection" in the service manual, and it appears as though L916 could serve as a secondary protection device. L904 and L905 would be my next two guesses, they're on the power side of the USB port, ground and VBUS respectively. Looking at the schematic, it looks like USB section and the DIN-9 Serial port are two different circuits. Does the DIN-9 port still work? If you're uncomfortable replacing them yourself, we might be able to meet somewhere and I can do it for you. It looks like a simple order-the-parts, and then swap-them-in kind of thing. ETA: I should mention that the particular package these parts are in will require a hot-air rework station. ETA2: D901 can be bought here Not real comfy about taking it apart myself. I can't see like I used to. I would end up doing more damage than good. I don't have a PC with a working serial port handy. I may still borrow one & check the DIN-9 port. Going to call the Va. Beach repair center today & see what they have to say. Appreciate the offer though! ARFCOM rules! |
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[#11]
Called the Kenwood service center east in Va. Beach. They explained the USB repair (if that's only issue) , should be around $100 - $150 + shipping back to me, so not too bad. I will pack it up nicely & ship her off this week. Was told 2 -3 weeks normal turn around time. I also mentioned that my rig is 9 months beyond the warranty period & Kenwood seems to have several reported issues with the 590 USB port. Hoping Kenwood may cover repair cost if they acknowledge problem. They told me to include a copy of original purchase invoice. Worth a try anyway.
Should be back in the game next month. ** Got an email back from Kenwood, they state "there are no common issues with the TS-590S USB port". In other words, not covered after 1 year & I pay. ** |
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[#12]
Quoted:
Called the Kenwood service center east in Va. Beach. They explained the USB repair (if that's only issue) , should be around $100 - $150 + shipping back to me, so not too bad. I will pack it up nicely & ship her off this week. Was told 2 -3 weeks normal turn around time. I also mentioned that my rig is 9 months beyond the warranty period & Kenwood seems to have several reported issues with the 590 USB port. Hoping Kenwood may cover repair cost if they acknowledge problem. They told me to include a copy of original purchase invoice. Worth a try anyway. Should be back in the game next month. ** Got an email back from Kenwood, they state "there are no common issues with the TS-590S USB port". In other words, not covered after 1 year & I pay. ** View Quote That sucks -- It's like $10 in shipped parts. But honestly, that's not that bad of a price. Oh well, gotta pay to play I guess. |
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[#13]
Quoted:
That sucks -- It's like $10 in shipped parts. But honestly, that's not that bad of a price. Oh well, gotta pay to play I guess. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Called the Kenwood service center east in Va. Beach. They explained the USB repair (if that's only issue) , should be around $100 - $150 + shipping back to me, so not too bad. I will pack it up nicely & ship her off this week. Was told 2 -3 weeks normal turn around time. I also mentioned that my rig is 9 months beyond the warranty period & Kenwood seems to have several reported issues with the 590 USB port. Hoping Kenwood may cover repair cost if they acknowledge problem. They told me to include a copy of original purchase invoice. Worth a try anyway. Should be back in the game next month. ** Got an email back from Kenwood, they state "there are no common issues with the TS-590S USB port". In other words, not covered after 1 year & I pay. ** That sucks -- It's like $10 in shipped parts. But honestly, that's not that bad of a price. Oh well, gotta pay to play I guess. Yeah, that's what I figured, $100 - $150 is not bad considering what we spend on this hobby. |
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[#14]
I contacted the Kenwood East service center. They had already assigned me a claim # & I was told the tech will be checking my 590 later this week. Since my rig is no longer under warranty, they will repair & ship back if cost is under $150. If repairs run more than $150, they will contact me first. Hope to have her back in a few weeks.
I'm in the process of updating my shack for quick disconnect. When done, it will take me 5 seconds to plug/unplug it all from one easy to reach spot. |
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[#15]
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[#16]
This seems to be a very common issue with rigs with built in sound cards.
I have been unplugging everything for years and so far so good. Its a real pain to hook and unhook everything each day, but I suppose its worth the effort. The bands have been poor HogSniper, so its better to have your rig out for repair now than when things are really hopping. |
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[#19]
Have you considered a whole house surge protector? Some power companies will install one for a small monthly fee. It's not hard to install one yourself. You'll need to mount it near the "Breaker Box" and wire it into a dedicated, two pole 30A breaker.
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[#20]
FWIW, we had a meter-mounted whole house surge protection unit, and both the PC and hub were being powered via UPS/surge protector at the time my 590's USB got zapped. The power co. described the whole house unit as more for "large appliance" protection and that individual equipment surge protection was still a "good idea".
Nick |
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[#21]
I also know some folks that lost a few items in spite of having the surge protection unit at their meter. Seems to me that USB & HDMI ports are fragile & easily screwed up, while the old DIN serial interfaces can take much more abuse. The more digitized & faster we make interfaces, the easier they are to break.
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[#22]
Quoted:
I also know some folks that lost a few items in spite of having the surge protection unit at their meter. Seems to me that USB & HDMI ports are fragile & easily screwed up, while the old DIN serial interfaces can take much more abuse. The more digitized & faster we make interfaces, the easier they are to break. View Quote small diodes can't take the transient voltages like the big diodes can/could. |
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[#23]
Quoted:
small diodes can't take the transient voltages like the big diodes can/could. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I also know some folks that lost a few items in spite of having the surge protection unit at their meter. Seems to me that USB & HDMI ports are fragile & easily screwed up, while the old DIN serial interfaces can take much more abuse. The more digitized & faster we make interfaces, the easier they are to break. small diodes can't take the transient voltages like the big diodes can/could. I knew somebody smarter than me could explain why. |
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[#24]
My baby is headed home! They replaced the failed USB controller assembly & have her boxed up for UPS today. My unit was no longer under warranty, but cost was very reasonable. Much faster repair service than I was expecting! I should be back in the game this week. Now if the bands would just cooperate.
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[#25]
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My baby is headed home! They replaced the failed USB controller assembly & have her boxed up for UPS today. My unit was no longer under warranty, but cost was very reasonable. Much faster repair service than I was expecting! I should be back in the game this week. Now if the bands would just cooperate. View Quote cool what was the bill ? |
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[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
My baby is headed home! They replaced the failed USB controller assembly & have her boxed up for UPS today. My unit was no longer under warranty, but cost was very reasonable. Much faster repair service than I was expecting! I should be back in the game this week. Now if the bands would just cooperate. cool what was the bill ? parts = $95 labor = $150 I was thinking labor $150! but then again, I don't have the facility, tools, patience or eyesight, so worth it to me. |
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[#28]
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[#29]
Got the rig back yesterday evening. Manged to hook it up late last night & looks like I have another issue. Everything works fine except the MULTI/CH knob. The knob spins & clicks but does nothing. Even in menu mode, the knob doesn't change any values. I made several contacts with JT65, PSK31, one RTTY & one SSB voice. All fine except the knob is broke. l called the east service center. I'm sure the knob worked before I sent it to them, but their policy is if they determine it was caused from initial problem, they still charge. Don't have the funds for more repairs, so I guess I'll live with it for now. Either that or sell all my gear & quit the game.
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[#30]
Quoted:
Got the rig back yesterday evening. Manged to hook it up late last night & looks like I have another issue. Everything works fine except the MULTI/CH knob. The knob spins & clicks but does nothing. Even in menu mode, the knob doesn't change any values. I made several contacts with JT65, PSK31, one RTTY & one SSB voice. All fine except the knob is broke. l called the east service center. I'm sure the knob worked before I sent it to them, but their policy is if they determine it was caused from initial problem, they still charge. Don't have the funds for more repairs, so I guess I'll live with it for now. Either that or sell all my gear & quit the game. View Quote You might open the cabinet and look for a plug from the multi channel assembly being disconnected from the main board. Thay may have taken it apart to do the repair and didn't get it back together or put the plug on but offset on the pins. hth 73, Rob |
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[#31]
Quoted:
You might open the cabinet and look for a plug from the multi channel assembly being disconnected from the main board. Thay may have taken it apart to do the repair and didn't get it back together or put the plug on but offset on the pins. hth 73, Rob View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Got the rig back yesterday evening. Manged to hook it up late last night & looks like I have another issue. Everything works fine except the MULTI/CH knob. The knob spins & clicks but does nothing. Even in menu mode, the knob doesn't change any values. I made several contacts with JT65, PSK31, one RTTY & one SSB voice. All fine except the knob is broke. l called the east service center. I'm sure the knob worked before I sent it to them, but their policy is if they determine it was caused from initial problem, they still charge. Don't have the funds for more repairs, so I guess I'll live with it for now. Either that or sell all my gear & quit the game. You might open the cabinet and look for a plug from the multi channel assembly being disconnected from the main board. Thay may have taken it apart to do the repair and didn't get it back together or put the plug on but offset on the pins. hth 73, Rob Yeah, I was thinking along those lines also. I'll check that when I get time. If I can figure out where its located. |
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[#32]
Quoted:
Yeah, I was thinking along those lines also. I'll check that when I get time. If I can figure out where its located. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Got the rig back yesterday evening. Manged to hook it up late last night & looks like I have another issue. Everything works fine except the MULTI/CH knob. The knob spins & clicks but does nothing. Even in menu mode, the knob doesn't change any values. I made several contacts with JT65, PSK31, one RTTY & one SSB voice. All fine except the knob is broke. l called the east service center. I'm sure the knob worked before I sent it to them, but their policy is if they determine it was caused from initial problem, they still charge. Don't have the funds for more repairs, so I guess I'll live with it for now. Either that or sell all my gear & quit the game. You might open the cabinet and look for a plug from the multi channel assembly being disconnected from the main board. Thay may have taken it apart to do the repair and didn't get it back together or put the plug on but offset on the pins. hth 73, Rob Yeah, I was thinking along those lines also. I'll check that when I get time. If I can figure out where its located. The board for the connector / knob will be right behind the front panel, that assembly ought to have a cable going back to the main board. 73, Rob |
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