This will be my first time hunting elk.  I'm heading out to OR this year with my dad, and I'm trying to research a few things to help insure success.  I'll be using a 300 wm.  I don't reload, and I need info on what the best factory load would be.  I assume I need a controlled expansion, heavier bullet.  Please no suggestions on super expensive ammo.  I don't need to keyhole shots on paper, but I obviously don't want anything that isn't consistent either.  Right now, I'm using the Winchester power point 180 grain just to get some range time.  I'll happily listen to any suggestions.

 

I shot my first elk with standard Remington core lokt 7mm mag 160 gr. Worked fine. I now reload Barnes triple shock.

As far as the nosler partition mentioned above that would be an excellent choice, also the 180 gr ammo you are using currently will likey work fine though too.

Barnes is making some ammo now called Vor-TX.

Should be good stuff. Or the Hornady premium Fusion.

"please no suggestions on super expensive ammo."

You can't have your cake and eat it to.  If you want premium ammo you will pay a premium price.  I have shot three Elk and never used a premium bullet on them.  Once with the standard Remington cup and core bullet and two hand loaded Sierra Game king bullets.  I know I will be flamed for stating that but just saying what I have used.

Use the cheap ammo for practice and once you are comfortable with the rifle buy a few boxes of the ammo you want to hunt with.  Federal makes the Fusion line of ammo which is loaded with Barnes, Nosler, and Sierra bullets.  The Remington Core-lokt Bonded ammo uses Swift bullets.  

I would use a 180 grain bullet, and I don't think you need a premium bullet, perhaps just one of the tougher standard bullets, such as the Hornady Interlock, or Core-lokt by Remington.  I've never believed that the super premium bullets are necessary for a lot of they animals they are used on myself.  Some situations and animals do warrant these bullets, but not as many as some would have you think.

Don't buy into the super duper/I need to spend 2.50 a shot/ BS

I have shot at least 18 elk with everything from super duper premium ammo to handloads loaded with well made, reasonably priced bullets.  Elk are not that hard to put down with proper shot placement.  You need to BREAK the front shoulder or hit the CNS to stop them in their tracks.  They can run a ways with a heart/lung shot and will make it into the next county gut shot with a 338 RUM.
Buy some ammo with a decent bullet(fed. fusion works well for me in 300 WM), practice at everything from quick standing shots at close range to field rested out to 3-400 yd.
Know how far you can hit a 12" target reliably.  Enjoy the hunt.

I have used Federal with 180gr Barnes TSX in my 300 WM the last two years and will again this year.  I have killed two elk and both were one shot kills, the Barnes get great penetration and I believe that is the key when hunting elk.  They are really good at long distances, my elk this past year was at 486yds and my dad killed one a couple years ago at 600+yds with them.  This year I will be reloading with same Barnes to try and duplicate the Federal load.

Are you shooting directly through the shoulder to the vitals?

Try several and use one that groups well.  Stick with 180-200gr bullets, this is where the mag 30's shine.  Also get a bonded bullet like accubond, scirocco, A-frame, interbond, etc, or a mono-metal like the Barnes TSX.  Some of these are expensive but once sighted in a single box will last for 3 or 4 hunts if you figure an average of 3 rounds to verify zero and a round or two per animal killed.

Every chance I get
165 gr. accubond @ 2600 fps.  Entry wound, elk was quartering away at 40 yds.  Smashed the shoulder and destroyed the heart.



Recovered accubond under far side.

That is pretty impressive!!!

I shoot federal premium 180g Nosler Partitions out of a .30-06. $50/20bullets
I hope to soon be handloading either 180 or 200g Accubonds.

If you live in the mountains and you shoot a cow elk every year then a regular hunting bullet will suffice but if you're traveling or it's a once in a lifetime trophy hunt or whatever, then buy a good bullet.

I know people say you don't need a premium bullet but why risk it?
It's like a mastercard commercial.

Quality hunting rifle: $800
Quality hunting optic: $400
Quality Binoculars: $300
Plan Ticket to rocky mountains: $400
Watching a 6x6 mature bull walk only 15yds before dying because you paid the extra $20 for a better bullet: Priceless

Seriously though, 2 boxes of premium ammo is less than $100 shipped.
two 3 shot groups at 100 to make sure they shoot. 3 round group at 200m, 3 round group at 300m, 3 round group at 400m to confirm your dope. Load the other 5 into your gun/magazine and keep one box in your pack.

ETA: my buddy loads 225g Accubonds in his .338win mag for elk

This is a very good point.  I have read that the ballistic tip type are not so good for some reason, or is that just BS?  And I have to ask  DVCER, where exactly is your POA in the shoulder?  Isn't there a rather large amount of muscle that could be damaged if you shoot right in the center of the shoulder?  Forgive me...I'm used to hunting black tail deer, where a 55gr bullet can stop them in their tracks.

ETA:  Holy crap, I quoted myself.  I am an idiot.

There are a few different ballistic tip designs, some for varmints,some for big game . These are the latter.  You can clearly see how they hold up AFTER breaking a big bone on a big animal.

Is this the Accubond?

+1 for quality ammo.  Nosler partitions, accubons, scirocco, A-max, triple shok...  there are a lot of really good bullets out there.  You might be able to get someone to reload for you or start reloading your own if you think it is too expensive to pay $50 for premium ammo.  Reuse your brass and start loading, if you shoot enough it will end up less expensive.  Don't go to the field with $15 to $20 ammo and expect great results.

165 gr. accubond launched at 308 velocity from a DPMS.
It broke the big bone (Scapula?) on the shoulder, meat loss was minimal.  Most guys will shoot for the crease just behind
the shoulder,and it will be a fatal shot.  Hitting the shoulder stops them DRT.

My point of aim is directly above the leg, at the elevation of the heart.

+1 for the Nosler Accubonds, they work well for Elk and Moose.  I shot a nice Canadian bull moose a few years ago with my 300WM with accubond handloads, don't know if anyone sells them in factory ammo.  Anyway, during my load development the one thing that surprised me was the accuracy of the accubonds, better then matchkings.  The partitions I tried did not live up to my accuracy standards, in either factory or handloads.

Anyway, just my .02

Indy

This is a 180gr Accubond on a 140lb 8 point whitetail @ 40yds, notice the lung blood that ran all the way up to his jaw: