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Posted: 5/8/2017 9:59:12 PM EDT
And I caught the new swarm!
Attached File Inspection of existing hive. Attached File Attached File New swarm in new box for a few weeks. Attached File |
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And I caught the new swarm! https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/110002/2017-05-08-21-204616.JPG Inspection of existing hive. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/110002/2017-05-08-21-204617.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/110002/2017-05-08-21-204618.JPG New swarm in new box for a few weeks.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/110002/2017-05-08-21-204621.JPG View Quote Awesome job!!! |
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There is a guy that has a couple of bait boxes out - see them riding around.
After the hurricane that we had last summer - did a kayaking trip - saw where a tree that got knocked down into a creek had a hive in it. Red |
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There is a guy that has a couple of bait boxes out - see them riding around. Red View Quote Funny thing is I caught a swarm (not form my yard) on my back patio with a bait box that I was repairing from the kids. Surrounded me at 5PM while I was walking outside to check on the grill. |
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Did a hive inspection a few weeks ago (5 maybe?) and was worried. Decent #s of bees and some honey but no brood. I couldn't find a queen, and thought I was going to have to buy one or watch the hive fail. I put in a BIG chunk of pollen patty and hoped for the best.
Cracked it open two nights ago and they had FILLED the first deep with brood, pollen and honey. Such a tremendous turnaround. Built a new deep last night, and put it on this morning with 6 new frames. I have more frame kits and I am going to build 4 more frames this evening to fill the new deep. I am going to order another deep and a queen excluder and go ahead and put a super on. I am planning to let them keep the vast majority of it but I would like a pint or so of honey just to sample. I'd like to get this hive good and strong and be able to split it next year. I will upload a few pictures from my phone shortly. @Kitties-with-Sigs |
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Did a hive inspection a few weeks ago (5 maybe?) and was worried. Decent #s of bees and some honey but no brood. I couldn't find a queen, and thought I was going to have to buy one or watch the hive fail. I put in a BIG chunk of pollen patty and hoped for the best. Cracked it open two nights ago and they had FILLED the first deep with brood, pollen and honey. Such a tremendous turnaround. Built a new deep last night, and put it on this morning with 6 new frames. I have more frame kits and I am going to build 4 more frames this evening to fill the new deep. I am going to order another deep and a queen excluder and go ahead and put a super on. I am planning to let them keep the vast majority of it but I would like a pint or so of honey just to sample. I'd like to get this hive good and strong and be able to split it next year. I will upload a few pictures from my phone shortly. @Kitties-with-Sigs View Quote Really glad they were able to get going. Sounds like you've got a good hive. I would check in there to be sure they've not begun preparing to swarm again. Once they fill a box, their minds get on leavin' to get more space. Sounds like your'e doing great with them! |
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That's AWESOME! Really glad they were able to get going. Sounds like you've got a good hive. I would check in there to be sure they've not begun preparing to swarm again. Once they fill a box, their minds get on leavin' to get more space. Sounds like your'e doing great with them! View Quote |
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The hive they came off of was a split from a native hive that a friend of mine took out of the wall of an old farmhouse. So we think we have some genetics going on there that are really well suited to this area, and just very vigorous. Not sure how true it is but I have been told that queens from different areas may struggle in a different climates that they may not be acclimated to. View Quote And you've got a good one. That's an amazing brood pattern. Good get! |
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OK... I have always been curious and I know absolutely nothing about bees. How do you get the honey out and how do you manipulate the hive pieces without killing/squishing the bees? How do you tell the queen bee from the others? What happens if you don't empty out the honey? Do the bees eat it? If you empty it out won't they starve?
Sorry, Ignorant questions I suspect. In all aspects of my outdoor life I've made it a priority to ensure that I never harm a bee as they are very helpful little guys. I've just never actually thought about beekeeping. Very interesting. |
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OK... I have always been curious and I know absolutely nothing about bees. How do you get the honey out and how do you manipulate the hive pieces without killing/squishing the bees? You use a knife to cut the caps off of the honey cells, and either wait for gravity or use a centrifuge to extract it. Very slowly and carefully to avoid squishing bees. You are probably going to kill a couple every time you do an inspection. How do you tell the queen bee from the others? She is a little bit bigger, and a little bit longer than the others. She is not always easy to see, fortunately she generally stays away from light so if you open the top she will go down to lessen the chance of being squished. What happens if you don't empty out the honey? Do the bees eat it? If you empty it out won't they starve? If you empty out too much honey they will indeed starve. I will feed them pollen pattys during the dearth of summer when there is less pollen and nectar, since this is a new hive. Being a new hive, I will maybe only take enough honey for a sample, or maybe none at all. They do indeed eat it to get through the winter. You can't take it all. In all aspects of my outdoor life I've made it a priority to ensure that I never harm a bee as they are very helpful little guys. I've just never actually thought about beekeeping. Very interesting. View Quote |
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And I caught the new swarm! https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/110002/2017-05-08-21-204616.JPG Inspection of existing hive. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/110002/2017-05-08-21-204617.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/110002/2017-05-08-21-204618.JPG New swarm in new box for a few weeks.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/110002/2017-05-08-21-204621.JPG View Quote What's the best flower in your neck of the woods? Down here it is Tupelo, Sourwood, and Galberry. Gallberry is my favorite. |
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What's the best flower in your neck of the woods? Down here it is Tupelo, Sourwood, and Galberry. Gallberry is my favorite. View Quote |
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I never planned to get into beekeeping. A friend brought a hive out because I have apple trees, and a woods full of locust trees out back. Then when I caught this swarm, and since I have been checking on his existing hive, I bought a hive kit and now I'm thinking of splitting this hive in a year or two. View Quote When you remove the honey you leave some. How do you know how much to leave? |
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Thanks for that! It seems very interesting. I've always had a powerful fear of bees, mostly due to a potential fatal allergy to yellow jacket stings (damn near killed me when I was a kid). Now that I am older and have realized that many buzzing insects are helpful and not aggressive I have always wondered if learning basic beekeeping would be useful to help me overcome my fear. I know my fear is unreasonable. Someday ::sigh:: I will have my land in the country. someday.... When you remove the honey you leave some. How do you know how much to leave? View Quote After that, northern bees with longer winters need more honey to see them through it. 30 lbs may be enough for southern bees. Far north bees may need 150 lbs of honey to get through winter! |
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Thanks for that! It seems very interesting. I've always had a powerful fear of bees, mostly due to a potential fatal allergy to yellow jacket stings (damn near killed me when I was a kid). Now that I am older and have realized that many buzzing insects are helpful and not aggressive I have always wondered if learning basic beekeeping would be useful to help me overcome my fear. I know my fear is unreasonable. Someday ::sigh:: I will have my land in the country. someday.... When you remove the honey you leave some. How do you know how much to leave? View Quote You will learn about bees and beekeeping, and you'll know if it's for you. You will get opportunities to suit up and watch beekeepers do their thing. If you just think "wow that would be cool" but have no time or interest to learn, then you are not a beekeeper. Don't get bees. It will cost you money and they will die. If you are serious about getting into beekeeping, then you've got a LOT of learning ahead of you. If you are seriously interested, there are several threads here, many forums on the web, a LOT of books, and a whole bunch of people who will help you get started and be glad to do so. |
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Just a word of advice on local bee meetings. Everyone has an opinion on how things should be done.
The folks I got my package bees from are down near Houston, near where I lived when I went to college. One of the largest suppliers in the state, started in 1888. It's probably just as hot, if not hotter down there as it is in Dallas, but more humid. They unequivocally say to use a solid bottom board, they only sell solid bottom boards. When I went to pick them up, they guy told me to make sure I used a solid bottom board. Ok so everything I have is solid bottom boards. I went to the local bee meeting in Dallas last night. There speaker was a 50 something year old guy who claimed to have worked with bees since he was a kid. This guy swears we should all only be using screened bottom boards. Our bees or overheating in the summer and dying from too much moisture in the winter. Everything should have a screened board, even in the winter. Which one of them is wrong? |
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Just a word of advice on local bee meetings. Everyone has an opinion on how things should be done. The folks I got my package bees from are down near Houston, near where I lived when I went to college. One of the largest suppliers in the state, started in 1888. It's probably just as hot, if not hotter down there as it is in Dallas, but more humid. They unequivocally say to use a solid bottom board, they only sell solid bottom boards. When I went to pick them up, they guy told me to make sure I used a solid bottom board. Ok so everything I have is solid bottom boards. I went to the local bee meeting in Dallas last night. There speaker was a 50 something year old guy who claimed to have worked with bees since he was a kid. This guy swears we should all only be using screened bottom boards. Our bees or overheating in the summer and dying from too much moisture in the winter. Everything should have a screened board, even in the winter. Which one of them is wrong? View Quote Neither is wrong in his approach, because it works for him. The value of these meetings is not to follow every bit of advice you hear. It's to constantly be in a network of learning (which is why once a year at a university bee school for your state is $25 adn a road trip well spent) where people are bringing ideas and methods to the table. The guys at the universities are actually doing the hard research and writing up findings, then presenting what they find to real-world beekeepers like us. So the attitude you have to take is to listen to the old guys/girls and take what they say and absorb it, and when you hear something that feels right to you, try it out on a hive or two. See what you think. In the same way you try a new variety of petunia and get zero results. You have the experience to take into account WHY they failed. Is that variety actually not any good? Or did you miss something or was it just a bad year? If your hives were the same bees, in the same boxes, in the same exact spot on the planet, as my bees, then what I do should work for you. But that's never gonna happen. Not even from one side of an apiary to the other. Bees are not like math. They are kind of half science, half art. We can know the science, and we all SHOULD. But the art part--we have to finesse that for our particular bees and situations. When I started beekeeping, everybody was yelling SBB, SBB! (screened bottom board). Well now, I'm seeing more beekeepers going back to the solid boards because they didn't get the results they'd hoped for. And I'm seeing them go to setups where they can slide a solid board in for some hives, and not for others, because there are times it's a good tool, and times it's not. For the science of bee genetics and reproduction? Yeah, there are hard answers. But for getting bees to thrive--not so much. |
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I'm starting to take the "university hard science" with a grain of salt as well.
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I'm starting to take the "university hard science" with a grain of salt as well. View Quote By "hard science" what I mean is....."how long is the bee life cycle," "how do you diagnose X bee disease in your hive," "How well do bees overwinter in mediums vs deeps in X environment" etc." While some of that stuff is still subjective, some of it is not. I see certain information put out by "old timers" and I think, "that's just flat out wrong" because we know how bees mate, we know how often, we know how the genetics work, etc. The education you can get from those apiarists working in research and teaching full time is invaluable and is truly advancing beekeeping. However every new equipment or methodology development is not for every beekeeper. So knowing the hard science is helpful. I think it takes experience and sharing with a large network of people to learn what, of the options, works best for each of us. |
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As far as solid or screen I belong to the 1/8" screen board group. I like a little air flow even in the winter.
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As far as solid or screen I belong to the 1/8" screen board group. I like a little air flow even in the winter. View Quote Yes they can have their advantages especially in warmer climates for ventilation and for monitoring mite drops after treatments. Conversley, here where it is pretty cold during the winter, I feel that the disadvantages outweigh the advantages. The ground is frozen solid here for many months. That little piece of Coroplast that slides in is not providing enough of a barrier from the cold ground. Maybe if you insulated underneath it would be good. Every one of my hives with a screened bottom board has perished two years in a row over the winter? Coincidence??? As my Mentor once said "would you want a screen floor in your bedroom during the winter"? |
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Many Beekeepers that I know are huge proponents of screened bottom boards. Thankfully I only partially bought into the hype. Yes they can have their advantages especially in warmer climates for ventilation and for monitoring mite drops after treatments. Conversley, here where it is pretty cold during the winter, I feel that the disadvantages outweigh the advantages. The ground is frozen solid here for many months. That little piece of Coroplast that slides in is not providing enough of a barrier from the cold ground. Maybe if you insulated underneath it would be good. Every one of my hives with a screened bottom board has perished two years in a row over the winter? Coincidence??? As my Mentor once said "would you want a screen floor in your bedroom during the winter"? View Quote The further south you are, the more SBBs make sense. I think here, in the transition zone where I live, it's the most difficult to make a decision. What I would REALLY like, is a bottom board that's completely convertible--I mean from an SBB to a full solid bottom--not just a thin piece of board, but a full thickness bottom. If I installed these on my hives, if I had a varroa issue in one hive, you better believe I would put the screen in and use that as part of my IPM program to help with the mites. If I did not, and especially with smaller, weaker hives, I would keep that solid bottom in. If I were going to treat with OA, I would need the solid board in. I'm not at all sure the SBB is necessary in my zone for summer heat relief. I think extra venilation via the top cover raised a bit is a better solution. After years of beekeeping and observing others who do, I think the SBB is better used as a problem solver than a full-time method here where I live. I don't have proof of this, but that's my gut feeling. |
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This is what I think too. The further south you are, the more SBBs make sense. I think here, in the transition zone where I live, it's the most difficult to make a decision. What I would REALLY like, is a bottom board that's completely convertible--I mean from an SBB to a full solid bottom--not just a thin piece of board, but a full thickness bottom. If I installed these on my hives, if I had a varroa issue in one hive, you better believe I would put the screen in and use that as part of my IPM program to help with the mites. If I did not, and especially with smaller, weaker hives, I would keep that solid bottom in. If I were going to treat with OA, I would need the solid board in. I'm not at all sure the SBB is necessary in my zone for summer heat relief. I think extra venilation via the top cover raised a bit is a better solution. After years of beekeeping and observing others who do, I think the SBB is better used as a problem solver than a full-time method here where I live. I don't have proof of this, but that's my gut feeling. View Quote BTW: You can OAV from underneath a SBB |
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Neat. A former coworker had bees and taught classes on them as a hobby.
One day I asked, "How is the bee business?" "Oh, it's buzzing." Set myself up for that one. |
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Seriously??? I thought you had to stop the hive up and vaporize through a tiny hole. View Quote There is a lot of new technology out there for OAV such as the LEGA unit that goes on the end of a heat gun. This is what I am using this season as it only takes 15 seconds per hive. |
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With the typical wand for OAV like This Varrox you can go through the entrance, underneath a SBB or through the top of you have a notch in your inner cover. Yes the rest of the hive should be sealed up for 2:30 while vaporizing. Mthe vaporizer should then be removed and the hive sealed for an additional 10 minutes. There is a lot of new technology out there for OAV such as the LEGA unit that goes on the end of a heat gun. This is what I am using this season as it only takes 15 seconds per hive. View Quote I think a tutorial on OA treatment would be awesome. I know there was a lot about it earlier in the thread, but you've learned, right? |
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I have made a few Bottom boards that meet your criteria. Somewhat convertible! I also have been cutting off the landing board on all new bottom boards. IMHO they are not necessary and are the first part to have paint peeling and rotting. They also allow water to get into the hive if you don't have them angled forward. All of my "new bottom boards" also get screwed to the bottom brood box. This makes moving and transport much easier. BTW: You can OAV from underneath a SBB View Quote By attaching the bottom to the lower box does that mean you don't rotate boxes in the spring? |
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@Vespid_Wasp
Are these general bee discussions okay in your thread? Or is it a jack for what you wanted? We can always take it to the other thread, so tell us your preference. |
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I thought the vapors were corrosive. I was thinking about the bottom screen getting bad prematurely. By attaching the bottom to the lower box does that mean you don't rotate boxes in the spring? View Quote |
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@Vespid_Wasp Are these general bee discussions okay in your thread? Or is it a jack for what you wanted? We can always take it to the other thread, so tell us your preference. View Quote I'm reading and learning. I did an inspection today and they really haven't expanded into the additional deep like I had expected them too. I'm still new to this so I don't know how fast to expect a hive to grow. I did spy my queen today. She looked plump and healthy! No signs of any mites at all. |
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