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Whatever you do don't just spray the same pesticide back to back to back every time. If you do this eventually your sprays will become innefective and they eventually won't work. Then you will have resistant bugs that get into a commercial crop and piss off real farmers.
Imidan, sevin, malathion are all good choices for coddleing moth, however inidan and malathion are both organo phosphates and sevin is a carbyril. They are all in the same chemical family, so not a great idea to use back to back to back.
For moths (make worms) try mating disruption, or at least us a trap to help time your sprays instead of just blindly applying chemical.
Don't put a horticultural oil on at pink, your getting too late. Stop heavy (4%) apps of oil after scale separation. If you want to use a heavy dormant oil (4%) go at first swell side green timing. Use an oil, microthiol sulfur, copper mix or a lime sulfur (10%)oil (4%) solution. Later in the season you can use a 1% oil solution but avoid heavy apps after your buds have began to open to avoid phyto toxicity issues.
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Thank you!
Resistant insects are a PITA, and lead to the EPA reclassifying and eventually phasing out insecticides.
We lost Guithion because of resistance growing to the point that benefit/Risk/persistence ratio got out of whack. Malathion is heading that way.
If we lose Immidan, us Fruit growers are screwed.
However, Carbamates/Methylcarbamates and Organophosphates, are in a separate class for mode of operation.
Rotating Sevin XLR and Immidan is a common practice prescribed to avoid Resistance. Usually a third mode is also added as well.
2 Of one class in a row, and a change. Usually a Pyrethoid, or Carbamate like Lannate or Sevin.
The Extension entomologists are hot on the rotation lately, thanks to a couple of new invasive's.
Dunno if you have tried it yet.
Sulforix is a low volume substitute for Lime sulfur, that is much more effective, with less material needed, and a more consistent result.
It's downright awesome on scales, and fungus's when phytotoxicity isn't an issue. Costs a smidge more per acre, but the results are worth it.
Dunno if anyone pointed it out. Captan/Captec + crop oil=Phytotoxicity issues!!!
Guys that run a good sticker like Nu-Film have had issues 3 weeks after applying Captan.
It's a good idea to just skip Oil once Captan has been applied period.
Some resources for you guys that don't mind digging in and reading.
There are LOTS of links and archives, and it's easy to get lost in all of it as it is a bit jumbled, but there is a TON of good info for the Hobby guys as well as us commercial guys.
MSUE Apple pages