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[#3]
Great project keep the pics coming. I will advise there's not much chance of it staying level those concrete block will sink/shift.
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[#4]
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[#5]
Hey bud,
you might check out this book, a lot of good basic knowledge in here that will help you as you homestead. amazon link to book There are a bunch more just like it as well. This one is a broad overview with a lot of gotchas that we have lost in these modern times. |
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[#6]
Yeah, should have bored some holes down 4' and poured concrete in the bottom, then pilings on top. |
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[#7]
Love seeing the pics.
Thoughts....is the wood that's in contact with the concrete blocks untreated? If so, it's not going to last long. Termites are going to be feasting pretty soon...especially in FL. |
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[#8]
Quoted: Great project keep the pics coming. I will advise there's not much chance of it staying level those concrete block will sink/shift. View Quote This. In addition, while I'm no builder, I can say that that looks like an area that gets a bit of rainfall, and having untreated wood that close to the dirt in your floor foundation will not take too many seasons to start rotting out. I know you've gone a ways with this already, but honestly, if I were doing it, and wanted it to last more than a year or two, I'd rip the whole thing out right now, lay a solid foundation first, then start building from there with treated wood anywhere that may be exposed to the elements (you could at least stain it for some small amount of protection). Moisture is an enemy to wooden structures. |
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[#9]
Quoted:
This. In addition, while I'm no builder, I can say that that looks like an area that gets a bit of rainfall, and having untreated wood that close to the dirt in your floor foundation will not take too many seasons to start rotting out. I know you've gone a ways with this already, but honestly, if I were doing it, and wanted it to last more than a year or two, I'd rip the whole thing out right now, lay a solid foundation first, then start building from there with treated wood anywhere that may be exposed to the elements (you could at least stain it for some small amount of protection). Moisture is an enemy to wooden structures. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Great project keep the pics coming. I will advise there's not much chance of it staying level those concrete block will sink/shift. This. In addition, while I'm no builder, I can say that that looks like an area that gets a bit of rainfall, and having untreated wood that close to the dirt in your floor foundation will not take too many seasons to start rotting out. I know you've gone a ways with this already, but honestly, if I were doing it, and wanted it to last more than a year or two, I'd rip the whole thing out right now, lay a solid foundation first, then start building from there with treated wood anywhere that may be exposed to the elements (you could at least stain it for some small amount of protection). Moisture is an enemy to wooden structures. Agreed. That wood won't last, and it'll be much easier to deal with this now than later. If you do decide you're past the point of no return, at least get yourself underneath there (if you can) and spray some stuff on there to provide some durability. Truck Bedliner or maybe one of the new deck-restoration projects should at least get you a decade or so of use. |
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[#10]
Nice projected, OP. Looking forward to additional motivation from your future updates.
Keep 'em coming. |
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[#11]
I have an update with more pictures, but first let me address some of the questions.
The framing for the floor is mostly pressure treated, though the pictures don't display that ugly green color too well. There are a few pieces that are not, and I think I will take the suggestion of one of the posters in this thread and get under there and coat it with some deck sealer just to bump up the expected life of the structure. This is in an area that gets a moderate amount of rainfall, however, it's not in FL as my member status reflects. I obviously would like this thing to last as long as it is capable of, but it is meant as a temporary "bridge the gap" cabin, to provide a base camp, so I can focus more efforts on the permanent structure. There is a good chance that this will all be dismantled in the next 3-5 years. I am building it to accommodate possible dismantling, using mostly screws instead of nails, especially where the plywood meets the framing. The future permanent cabin will be a pretty unique design that I won't discuss much here just to stay on topic, but it will be a hybrid between the "Earthship" building design, and a Wofati. Stay tuned for an update with pictures in just a few minutes. |
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[#13]
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[#14]
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[#15]
Quoted:
Your giving my inner shop teacher a heart attack! http://housecraft.ca/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Wall_Frame_Showing_Forces_-233x300.png http://www.homecents.com/images/gloss_imgs/Framing/ExteriorWallL.gif http://www.homecents.com/images/gloss_imgs/Framing/RafterCuts.gif Or if you want a quick, easy to dismantle option that will go up fast and won't collapse onto you, http://w.creativeshelters.com/images/Blitz/Shed-Kit/90192-300.jpg View Quote It looks like I'm doing things correctly based on the second picture with the exception of where my unique styled door is going. I don't have windows, so based on that picture all I need to pay attention to is the bottom plate, top plate, studs, and corner post. I don't need to worry about window headers, trimmer studs, king studs, cripple studs. Based on that assessment I'd say i'm doing well. I've never seen blocking, fill bracing, let in brace. Are those for certain situations only? If not, why does only the right side of the wall have it, and the left side is left void of those features? Is it for the ease of reading the animation? Your first picture is window detail, but I don't have windows..... The last picture of the little assemble-yourself-shed looks like what I'm doing. I thought about one of those kits, but I couldn't get a 16x16 with a loft for $1,500 (roughly what I have in my build currently, plus what I plan to spend to finish it) Plus I wouldn't learn nearly as much or get the satisfaction for building a kit. So what am I missing that's making you about to have cardiac arrest? |
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[#16]
Quoted:
Do you have any wolves in the area? Especially any that resemble: http://www.chicagonow.com/wee-windy-city/files/2014/02/big_bad_wolf1.jpg View Quote If you're suggesting my cabin is going to blow away at the first 10 mph gust I get, I'd love some feedback on what in particular catches you eye that I need to do differently, that's much more helpful than ambiguously alluding to feelings that it is being built unsafe. So far most people seem to think the pilings are a weak point, or the wood close to the ground, did you see something different that needs attention? |
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[#17]
You obviously have moisture in the soil there, how are you going to keep your structure from rotting due to soil contact, both at the sides and from underneath?
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[#19]
Quoted:
If you're suggesting my cabin is going to blow away at the first 10 mph gust I get, I'd love some feedback on what in particular catches you eye that I need to do differently, that's much more helpful than ambiguously alluding to feelings that it is being built unsafe. So far most people seem to think the pilings are a weak point, or the wood close to the ground, did you see something different that needs attention? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Do you have any wolves in the area? Especially any that resemble: http://www.chicagonow.com/wee-windy-city/files/2014/02/big_bad_wolf1.jpg If you're suggesting my cabin is going to blow away at the first 10 mph gust I get, I'd love some feedback on what in particular catches you eye that I need to do differently, that's much more helpful than ambiguously alluding to feelings that it is being built unsafe. So far most people seem to think the pilings are a weak point, or the wood close to the ground, did you see something different that needs attention? What some might be driving at is your "beam". The way you have it now, just kinda pushed up underneath the finished roof, will not do much. If you notice the pic above of the garden shed, you'll see that it uses a ridge beam properly--with each rafter attached to it. You are building what appear to be individual 2x2 "trusses", with no strong backing or webbing of any kind, and just a random beam underneath. In your application this beam-- especially scabbed together and unsupported in the middle-- doesn't do much. Your idea of a ridge beam is there, however the individual rafters must each be fastened to it. I've seen 1x6 ridge beams even for heavy snow load areas--it simply acted as the "spine" of the roof, and receives equal weight from each side, rendering it almost stress free structurally. Yours, if anything will be an added burden on an already weak looking roof |
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[#20]
Quoted:
You obviously have moisture in the soil there, how are you going to keep your structure from rotting due to soil contact, both at the sides and from underneath? View Quote Most of the lumber I've used is PT. There are a few boards that are not and from the advice of someone here, I'll probably hit it with a few coats of deck sealer just to squeeze a little more lifespan from the lumber. As time permits I think I'll probably dig back a lot of the dirt away from the foundation area. I started at the lowest point and dug down all the others so it'd be level. In hindsight I should have started at the highest point and built up to reach level, and as Waldo pointed out, I should have gotten some cement under the pilings. These are all things I'm glad to have learned and will incorporate next time. |
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[#21]
Quoted:
What some might be driving at is your "beam". The way you have it now, just kinda pushed up underneath the finished roof, will not do much. If you notice the pic above of the garden shed, you'll see that it uses a ridge beam properly--with each rafter attached to it. You are building what appear to be individual 2x2 "trusses", with no strong backing or webbing of any kind, and just a random beam underneath. In your application this beam-- especially scabbed together and unsupported in the middle-- doesn't do much. Your idea of a ridge beam is there, however the individual rafters must each be fastened to it. I've seen 1x6 ridge beams even for heavy snow load areas--it simply acted as the "spine" of the roof, and receives equal weight from each side, rendering it almost stress free structurally. Yours, if anything will be an added burden on an already weak looking roof View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Do you have any wolves in the area? Especially any that resemble: http://www.chicagonow.com/wee-windy-city/files/2014/02/big_bad_wolf1.jpg If you're suggesting my cabin is going to blow away at the first 10 mph gust I get, I'd love some feedback on what in particular catches you eye that I need to do differently, that's much more helpful than ambiguously alluding to feelings that it is being built unsafe. So far most people seem to think the pilings are a weak point, or the wood close to the ground, did you see something different that needs attention? What some might be driving at is your "beam". The way you have it now, just kinda pushed up underneath the finished roof, will not do much. If you notice the pic above of the garden shed, you'll see that it uses a ridge beam properly--with each rafter attached to it. You are building what appear to be individual 2x2 "trusses", with no strong backing or webbing of any kind, and just a random beam underneath. In your application this beam-- especially scabbed together and unsupported in the middle-- doesn't do much. Your idea of a ridge beam is there, however the individual rafters must each be fastened to it. I've seen 1x6 ridge beams even for heavy snow load areas--it simply acted as the "spine" of the roof, and receives equal weight from each side, rendering it almost stress free structurally. Yours, if anything will be an added burden on an already weak looking roof Thanks for the advice. I will say, even though some of the "trusses" were up prior to the beam going up, once it was put into place the trusses do make contact and have been nailed to the beam. Optimally I'm sure there is some form of a Simpson strong tie that is meant for the task, but I did pay attention to make sure that the beam was making contact with the trusses and the future ones to go up will do the same. As far as being scabbed together, that was advice from a neighbor, which I cannot vouch for his expertise other than he works on a residential construction crew. I never figured scabbing something like that together would suffice, he swears it will. I did make the scabbing pretty solid, which I will get pictures of tomorrow if I remember. If there are problems that appear with it sagging, or showing signs of stress or inability to hold, then I'll look at options for bolstering it from underneath with a column of some sort. |
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[#22]
Quoted:
Thanks for the advice. I will say, even though some of the "trusses" were up prior to the beam going up, once it was put into place the trusses do make contact and have been nailed to the beam. Optimally I'm sure there is some form of a Simpson strong tie that is meant for the task, but I did pay attention to make sure that the beam was making contact with the trusses and the future ones to go up will do the same. As far as being scabbed together, that was advice from a neighbor, which I cannot vouch for his expertise other than he works on a residential construction crew. I never figured scabbing something like that together would suffice, he swears it will. I did make the scabbing pretty solid, which I will get pictures of tomorrow if I remember. If there are problems that appear with it sagging, or showing signs of stress or inability to hold, then I'll look at options for bolstering it from underneath with a column of some sort. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Do you have any wolves in the area? Especially any that resemble: http://www.chicagonow.com/wee-windy-city/files/2014/02/big_bad_wolf1.jpg If you're suggesting my cabin is going to blow away at the first 10 mph gust I get, I'd love some feedback on what in particular catches you eye that I need to do differently, that's much more helpful than ambiguously alluding to feelings that it is being built unsafe. So far most people seem to think the pilings are a weak point, or the wood close to the ground, did you see something different that needs attention? What some might be driving at is your "beam". The way you have it now, just kinda pushed up underneath the finished roof, will not do much. If you notice the pic above of the garden shed, you'll see that it uses a ridge beam properly--with each rafter attached to it. You are building what appear to be individual 2x2 "trusses", with no strong backing or webbing of any kind, and just a random beam underneath. In your application this beam-- especially scabbed together and unsupported in the middle-- doesn't do much. Your idea of a ridge beam is there, however the individual rafters must each be fastened to it. I've seen 1x6 ridge beams even for heavy snow load areas--it simply acted as the "spine" of the roof, and receives equal weight from each side, rendering it almost stress free structurally. Yours, if anything will be an added burden on an already weak looking roof Thanks for the advice. I will say, even though some of the "trusses" were up prior to the beam going up, once it was put into place the trusses do make contact and have been nailed to the beam. Optimally I'm sure there is some form of a Simpson strong tie that is meant for the task, but I did pay attention to make sure that the beam was making contact with the trusses and the future ones to go up will do the same. As far as being scabbed together, that was advice from a neighbor, which I cannot vouch for his expertise other than he works on a residential construction crew. I never figured scabbing something like that together would suffice, he swears it will. I did make the scabbing pretty solid, which I will get pictures of tomorrow if I remember. If there are problems that appear with it sagging, or showing signs of stress or inability to hold, then I'll look at options for bolstering it from underneath with a column of some sort. If used correctly, as in diagram of rafter in bigpolskas post, yes, a ridge board can be, and often must be, scabbed together. If one makes a 30 foot garage with overhangs, one cannot simply purchase a 34 foot 2x6. But again, no uneven forces are at play on said ridge, unlike yours |
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[#25]
Quoted:
If you're suggesting my cabin is going to blow away at the first 10 mph gust I get, I'd love some feedback on what in particular catches you eye that I need to do differently, that's much more helpful than ambiguously alluding to feelings that it is being built unsafe. So far most people seem to think the pilings are a weak point, or the wood close to the ground, did you see something different that needs attention? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Do you have any wolves in the area? Especially any that resemble: http://www.chicagonow.com/wee-windy-city/files/2014/02/big_bad_wolf1.jpg If you're suggesting my cabin is going to blow away at the first 10 mph gust I get, I'd love some feedback on what in particular catches you eye that I need to do differently, that's much more helpful than ambiguously alluding to feelings that it is being built unsafe. So far most people seem to think the pilings are a weak point, or the wood close to the ground, did you see something different that needs attention? For your own safety you really need to take a pause and go to Lowes and get a book on basic residential framing. Almost nothing you are doing is appropriate - and I don't mean you aren't doing it "the best way", I mean you aren't in the neighborhood of even "good enough". You seem to have the time, material and motivation - which is great - but apply a bit of that to the study of basic framing. You might also want to revisit the complexity of your building - you are clearing over extending beyond your ability. I wish you luck and applaud your efforts. |
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