User Panel
Quoted:
LOL- Good to see that you still have a sense of humor! Take care and glad you're ok. View Quote The family, the house and the garden made it through okay, in that order. It got pretty wet for a while but we have a berm across the up-slope side of the yard with a drain at the base that ties into the storm water system, so it was all good. I appreciate folks checking on us though. |
|
Quoted:
These were planted this spring. They did not bloom then, but they are making up for it now. <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015A_zpsaknwguo7.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015A_zpsaknwguo7.jpg</a> The sweet potato harvest. This colander is about the size of a half bushel basket and it is pretty full. I planted Vardemans (orange), Japanese (pink with white flesh), and Stokes Purple (dark solid purple throughout). The vardemans produced almost nothing. The Japanese sweets took over most of the bed. The Stokes purple was about a third of the harvest and is buried lower in the colander. Given that the whole lot was only a 4ft x 4ft block I am pretty satified at the output. I may not bother planting the Vardemans next year as they don't do as well and I can pick them up locally pretty easy. <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015B_zpsflqszuze.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015B_zpsflqszuze.jpg</a> The rest of the harvest - the last of the beans, more kholrabi, and the first of the fall broccoli. <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015C_zps3fdsxe3h.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015C_zps3fdsxe3h.jpg</a> The beds look a lot better this year than they did this time last year, so I think I am getting better on timing things. They still have a long way to go, but it is nice to see improvement. <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015D_zpszdgsa0mx.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015D_zpszdgsa0mx.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015E_zpspmqlus4n.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015E_zpspmqlus4n.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015F_zpstrbqocrc.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015F_zpstrbqocrc.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015G_zps2jckdrxs.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015G_zps2jckdrxs.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015H_zpslcgdfker.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015H_zpslcgdfker.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015I_zpsutmk0un3.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015I_zpsutmk0un3.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015J_zpsgitiplxx.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015J_zpsgitiplxx.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015K_zpsp0wfyvu6.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015K_zpsp0wfyvu6.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015L_zps2sphuato.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015L_zps2sphuato.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015M_zps3fridvtq.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015M_zps3fridvtq.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015N_zpsigb5fig9.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015N_zpsigb5fig9.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015O_zpsjx8ertev.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015O_zpsjx8ertev.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/101015P_zps7j05gwxx.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/101015P_zps7j05gwxx.jpg</a> View Quote SO pretty for this late in the year. Edit--I see you had no ill effects from the dump of weather. Glad for that. I thought of y'all down there and wondered how your garden fared. |
|
|
|
|
|
Hey, I've been watching this thread with envy since you started it! Thanks for sharing your successes and disappointments. I'm learning vicariously through you and others willing to share their experiences.
|
|
Quoted:
Hey, I've been watching this thread with envy since you started it! Thanks for sharing your successes and disappointments. I'm learning vicariously through you and others willing to share their experiences. View Quote Thanks man! I learn a lot from the other guys (and gals) in this forum. I really love looking at the ones where they have land - Hopefully someday I will have at least 10 acres, but for now I am learning what I can with what I have. |
|
Shoot, if I could get to the point of having just one decent raised bed, I'd be happy! I'm getting there. For now, I've been dealing with containers. In Texas, that's usually a frustrating endeavor.
|
|
Quoted:
Shoot, if I could get to the point of having just one decent raised bed, I'd be happy! I'm getting there. For now, I've been dealing with containers. In Texas, that's usually a frustrating endeavor. View Quote Yeah, I spent many years in an apartment with a little square of concrete instead of a yard. It's not as dry here but I have found the bottom-reservoir pots help (although you have probably already tried that). |
|
Oh yeah, gotta have the little reservoirs under the pots. And, I have to move them under the covered patio in the heat of the day and water them 2-3 times a day during the summer. It's almost more trouble than it's worth. On paper it's clearly nuts to even try, but I balance it with the satisfaction of an occasional success. For now, I do what I can and enjoy the garden threads on here.
|
|
Quoted:
Oh yeah, gotta have the little reservoirs under the pots. And, I have to move them under the covered patio in the heat of the day and water them 2-3 times a day during the summer. It's almost more trouble than it's worth. On paper it's clearly nuts to even try, but I balance it with the satisfaction of an occasional success. For now, I do what I can and enjoy the garden threads on here. View Quote Almost no home gardening makes sense on paper. But very worth it for many other reasons. There are some ways to automate the troublesome bits like watering and even reducing the need to move them in and out of the summer sun. Might not be worth it for a pot or two though. It's the constant watering that would get me, in your situation. I'd forget or be traveling for work and my plants would be toast. I admire those of you who manage it in apartments. Don't give up! |
|
Quoted:
Well, between a new job with longer hours and the days getting dark so early it has been weeks since I have been out in my garden. Thankfully with the raised beds I don't have to weed them, but I did lose most of the remaining broccoli. Here is the harvest since last post: November: <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/110815A_zpsc1nyblvr.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/110815A_zpsc1nyblvr.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/111315A_zps1590wa61.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/111315A_zps1590wa61.jpg</a> Yeah, I know the carrots are stunty. I though the peat pots would desintegrate before they needed to grow down - I was wrong. Next year I will still start them early but I will use toilet paper roll middles instead, so there is no bottom to stop their growth. Hrm....maybe I should cut down on the coffee grounds too. lol. This is what I pulled in last night - I had the same problem with most of the parsnips as with the carrots, and I will use the same fix. This cabbage was particularly small and flat compared to the others. I have a bunch of cabbages still in the garden, but they are all barely softball-sized. This time of year things will live (unless we get a really cold snap) but they don't get any larger. I'm guessing there is just not enough daylight hours or intensity of light. <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/120415A_zps8vuegcwb.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/120415A_zps8vuegcwb.jpg</a> I took these about 2 weeks ago showing what was still alive in the garden - now it's pretty much just down to brussels sprouts, collards, and spinach. <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/112115A_zpsvkad3jor.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/112115A_zpsvkad3jor.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/112115B_zpsovhyvpzm.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/112115B_zpsovhyvpzm.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/112115C_zpsnds1iq4t.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/112115C_zpsnds1iq4t.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/112115D_zpsffohqquj.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/112115D_zpsffohqquj.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/112115E_zpswrvwtoob.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/112115E_zpswrvwtoob.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1367.photobucket.com/user/ratling87/media/112115F_zpsaju0cz2k.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1367.photobucket.com/albums/r791/ratling87/112115F_zpsaju0cz2k.jpg</a> View Quote Just really amazing to someone in zone 6 that you are harvesting right now. Early December. You make moving south look really attractive. |
|
Quoted:
Just really amazing to someone in zone 6 that you are harvesting right now. Early December. You make moving south look really attractive. View Quote Thanks Kitties! I am on the NC-SC border in zone 7b - we get 1 or two cold snaps each winter down to about 10 degrees or so, we average about 30-ish degrees most of the winter. The gardening is great as long as you don't want to grow citrus, the cost of living is relatively low and the people are very friendly. |
|
Well, it is that time of year again, and I am looking at what I will put in my garden this spring. I have been working a lot more hours and no longer work from home, so along with other things I am looking to minimize the hours I need to spend picking produce. I am also still working to perfect my tomato growing technique. The last 3 years have produced a lot of tomatoes, but I had a lot of loss as well.
Experiment #1 - store bought cadges. Result: Cadges and plants pulled up and over during strong winds and then sprawled everywhere, hiding the fruit until it rotted. Experiment #2 - fence posts and twine. Result: Did not fall over in strong winds, however grew so wildly it sprawled everywhere, hiding most of the fruit until it rotted. The string also really cuts into the stems. Experiment #3 - fence posts and twine, AND pinching back all the side starts. Result: This worked until it grew over the top of the post and sprawled, however the single leader really reduced the total fruit output so I stopped pinching the sides, and which point it sprawled wildly, hiding about half the fruit until it rotted. The string also really cuts into the stems. Yes, there is a theme here. Not this year however! This year I begin..... Experiment #4 - Cattle panel trellising with tomato clips to reduce stem damage from the twine. It is my hope that the cattle panels will allow enough stems for decent fruit production. Also hopefully when I reach the top I can start running them laterally. I will see how it goes. Here is my current planting list (subject to change). Anything without a variety I am still debating which variety to plant. Beds tomatillo eggplant - ichiban eggplant - rosita peppers - Park's Orangesickle peppers - sweet pickle sweet potato - stokes purple sweet potato - japanese onion - mega bite bush beans - mellow yellow broccoli spinach celery cabbage and kale (as a trap crop) beets bok choy carrots lettuce english peas collards celeriac Trellis gourd - ridged luffa (zucchini substitute) squash - trombocino (young as zucchini sub, old as butternut-type) cucumber - suyo asian long beans - red noodle peas - english Tomato Pots horseradish ginger potatoes green onions garlic cilantro parsley dill artichoke (continuation of last year's plant) Has anyone else started making their list yet? If so, are you trying anything new this year? |
|
Concrete remesh rolled into a tube and zip tied to a t-post works pretty well as a a tomato cage. A bit spendy, but they last a long time.
|
|
|
We used a combination of horizontal and vertical string last year with the clips to hold the stems. I liked the clips. I was a little disappointed that they didn't have better UV resistance but they're cheap enough that it's not too big of a financial hit to purchase them every year. Good luck with your experiment this year.
I noticed that you don't have lima bean on your list this year. Too much work for little reward??? We haven't worked on our plant list for this coming season. We're actually considering moving the garden to a different location to try to avoid some of the chronic disease issues that we have at the current location. I just can't think of a good spot that doesn't put us at a greater risk for four legged pests. After we decide, we'll have a better idea what to plant in the available space. We do intend to expand our early season leafy green list this season. Love a good fresh salad |
|
Quoted:
We used a combination of horizontal and vertical string last year with the clips to hold the stems. I liked the clips. I was a little disappointed that they didn't have better UV resistance but they're cheap enough that it's not too big of a financial hit to purchase them every year. Good luck with your experiment this year. I noticed that you don't have lima bean on your list this year. Too much work for little reward??? We haven't worked on our plant list for this coming season. We're actually considering moving the garden to a different location to try to avoid some of the chronic disease issues that we have at the current location. I just can't think of a good spot that doesn't put us at a greater risk for four legged pests. After we decide, we'll have a better idea what to plant in the available space. We do intend to expand our early season leafy green list this season. Love a good fresh salad View Quote Yes, it was a risk/reward decision. I ended up getting very few beans from them last time I planted them, and it was a lot of hassle. Also unlike most things eaten fresh, I always cook these so even though the fresh are better than the frozen, once I add up the hassle, the output and the shelling I decided to just buy them when I want them. Thanks for the sending some luck my way, I can always use it! I hope you find the perfect spot for this year's garden. Choosing a location can be a bit of an art sometimes. |
|
Well, yesterday I took advantage of our 68 degree weather and cleaned up the garden. Probably this weekend or next I will pick up about 4 bags of black kow per bed, and maybe some more peat moss and amend and till. After that I will let it rest until about mid-March, then the early spring stuff goes in. Is anyone else getting their garden ready yet?
|
|
Quoted:
Well, yesterday I took advantage of our 68 degree weather and cleaned up the garden. Probably this weekend or next I will pick up about 4 bags of black kow per bed, and maybe some more peat moss and amend and till. After that I will let it rest until about mid-March, then the early spring stuff goes in. Is anyone else getting their garden ready yet? View Quote Itching to get out there. But....we have snow on the ground and it's going to be 14 for the low this week. so dreaming is all I'll do for a while. The local farmers have plowed the fields that will get turned this year (some years are no-till, but every few years, they use a moldboard plow to turn it all over.) I love that smell of the freshly turned earth, but now it's frozen hard again. Daffodills and hyacinths are poking through the ground, so I have hope. (I went out there and told them not to be stupid--it's too early--but they never listen. ) |
|
It is actually going to be below freezing this weekend, but should be back to 50 in a week. I have seedlings sunning themselves in front of my sliding glass door and cats snoozing by the fire. Life is good.
|
|
|
Your seedlings are begging for more light.
I've spent the last few days planting out tomatoes and peppers. I still have a bunch left to plant but am about out of space. It's been so warm that I could have done it at the beginning of the month if I had started everything a little earlier. I need to find more room for some carrots, beans, peas, squash and maybe corn. I need a bigger garden. |
|
Quoted:
Your seedlings are begging for more light. I've spent the last few days planting out tomatoes and peppers. I still have a bunch left to plant but am about out of space. It's been so warm that I could have done it at the beginning of the month if I had started everything a little earlier. I need to find more room for some carrots, beans, peas, squash and maybe corn. I need a bigger garden. View Quote Yeah, I know. I have been putting off buying lights because I am cheap. Last year it was fine because we have enough warm days for them to go out and I worked from home so I could put them out and in as needed. This year I am working in the office. I finally gave in last week and ordered some red and blue led's to see if they will do the trick. I will see how it goes. |
|
I use clamp lights from Lowes/Home Depot and 85 watt CFL's.
I keep the seedlings in 30 gallon totes and clamp 2 lights to each tote. The 85 watt bulbs are huge so I need to use a $3 adapter to extend them away from the housing otherwise they won't fit. 65 watt CFL'S would probably also work and not require the adapter. 45 watt bulbs work to but with them I need to rig the lights such that they are much closer to the plants or they will get leggy. |
|
I've been following your thread OP, just didn't post until now. I want to share my tomato trellis system with you. Just planted tomatoes. Pic is several years old. I suspend 2x4 fencing between the end poles of my raised bed. Was having problems with birds digging up my plantings, so a wire was temporarily placed on top of the top board and metal supports hold fence off plants. Solved the bird problem. 3 screws and a fender washer hold end of the fencing to the cross pieces. Later in the season. No tying required but I do assist the growing stems to pick the path I want. Only downside for me is unscrewing one end of the wire and rolling it up so I can turn over/dig the bed in the spring. Then fence is then re screwed into the cross pieces. |
|
Quoted:
Your seedlings are begging for more light. <snip> View Quote He's correct, but your top photo of the small seedlings....you need a little (very light) fertilizer on there too. Those should be a deeper green, and that will help a lot. You can foliar feed if you don't want to water it in, but honestly, a little Miracle Grow (very dilute) will be just fine and will help. |
|
Quoted:
I've been following your thread OP, just didn't post until now. I want to share my tomato trellis system with you. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Dogs%20%20Garden/P6160638_zpsddfb7543.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Dogs%20%20Garden/P6160638_zpsddfb7543.jpg</a> Just planted tomatoes. Pic is several years old. I suspend 2x4 fencing between the end poles of my raised bed. Was having problems with birds digging up my plantings, so a wire was temporarily placed on top of the top board and metal supports hold fence off plants. Solved the bird problem. 3 screws and a fender washer hold end of the fencing to the cross pieces. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Dogs%20%20Garden/P9140679_zpsc67f7fda.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Dogs%20%20Garden/P9140679_zpsc67f7fda.jpg</a> Later in the season. No tying required but I do assist the growing stems to pick the path I want. Only downside for me is unscrewing one end of the wire and rolling it up so I can turn over/dig the bed in the spring. Then fence is then re screwed into the cross pieces. View Quote Really nice system! I had already planned to try clips and horizontal cattle panels this year, but that might need to be next year's experiment! I would have to do some engineering since nailing the uprights to concrete would be a pill, but I can definitely see how functional it could be, without impeding fruiting or harvest. Thanks for sharing! |
|
Quoted:
He's correct, but your top photo of the small seedlings....you need a little (very light) fertilizer on there too. Those should be a deeper green, and that will help a lot. You can foliar feed if you don't want to water it in, but honestly, a little Miracle Grow (very dilute) will be just fine and will help. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Your seedlings are begging for more light. <snip> He's correct, but your top photo of the small seedlings....you need a little (very light) fertilizer on there too. Those should be a deeper green, and that will help a lot. You can foliar feed if you don't want to water it in, but honestly, a little Miracle Grow (very dilute) will be just fine and will help. Thanks Kitties! I started with pre-fertilized mix but I will try adding some and see what happens! My seedling starting is a weak point in the system definitely. Can you recommend what you would consider the best seed starting mix for the money? I have been working with the pre-mixed bagged stuff from Lowe's - will compressed peat work and just add nutrients once I massage in some water? What fertilizer would you suggest? |
|
Quoted:
Thanks Kitties! I started with pre-fertilized mix but I will try adding some and see what happens! My seedling starting is a weak point in the system definitely. Can you recommend what you would consider the best seed starting mix for the money? I have been working with the pre-mixed bagged stuff from Lowe's - will compressed peat work and just add nutrients once I massage in some water? What fertilizer would you suggest? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your seedlings are begging for more light. <snip> He's correct, but your top photo of the small seedlings....you need a little (very light) fertilizer on there too. Those should be a deeper green, and that will help a lot. You can foliar feed if you don't want to water it in, but honestly, a little Miracle Grow (very dilute) will be just fine and will help. Thanks Kitties! I started with pre-fertilized mix but I will try adding some and see what happens! My seedling starting is a weak point in the system definitely. Can you recommend what you would consider the best seed starting mix for the money? I have been working with the pre-mixed bagged stuff from Lowe's - will compressed peat work and just add nutrients once I massage in some water? What fertilizer would you suggest? No, I would go with a seed starting mix, not just the regular peat-based potting mix. And *I* would go with the plainest mix I could get, so *I* control the nutrients (and the resulting ph issues). But that's me. I say that because if i know what I'm putting on there, there's no guesswork. I'm not trying to supplement what they are doing. If I've screwed up, it's ME. And I can then adjust. Does that make sense? The reason is that (regardless of any amendments that might be included to aid in resistance to damping off) the seed starting mixes are milled into smaller particles, and you need that for good seed/soil contact. (using "soil" loosely here...to mean the mix) It will still be peat based, so since you are getting good germination, I assume you are wetting it before seeding, just like you would the regular peat-based mixes, and no matter what mix you choose, you will need to do that. If you could find the Pro-mix seed starting mix, I would recommend that, because I've had the most experience with it, and because I know they are a solid company and put out a consistently good product, free of contamination and of a high quality standard. I don't know if you can find this anywhere in a retail setting.. Pro mix biofungicide starting mix If not, I think you can find this at Lowe's or Home Depot maybe? The packaging will almost certainly be different but I think they market this to home gardeners with retail size packages. Promix organic you won't get the fungicide included in this one, but that might be better. You're not growing what's considered a "difficult" crop and you have not stated that you have trouble with disease at the germination stage, so this might actually bet the best choice for you. Either way, these mixes are going to be exactly right for seed germination. You can find out exactly what's included in these mixes, but in all cases, you will need to manage you fertilization SEPARATE from the mix. Okay is that of any use? Or did I make it worse? |
|
Oh shoot.
You asked about fertilization. I would use a basic balanced NPK fertilizer (equivalent to 10-10-10 as an example) and would apply it as liquid. I know all the arguments about the salts in Miracle Grow. But for the home gardener starting seeds, it's a good solid choice. Mix it according to package directions and then dilute it some more like down to 1/4-1/3 strength--when the plants are very young. Choose the regular Miracle Grow (or equivalent). Not the specialty one for certain plants. Right now you want vegetative growth. when you plant in the garden, you can switch out for "tomato food" or whatever. When they get their first true leaves, begin feeding with this very dilute mix when you water--start with once a day, then move to every watering (assuming you're watering twice a day) If you're watering only once a day, you may need to feed every two or three days. (plants this young will benefit from foliar feeding, because their root systems are so small at this point. If you want to do that, say so and I will explain how to do it. But let's be real....gardeners have grown stuff for a gazillion years without foliar freaking feeding. There's such a thing as overkill. If you have issues with the plants not taking up the nutrients through roots, then you can worry about foliar feeding.) Basically, you're feeding the same plant nutrients, but you're doing it very, VERY gently at first. Then you let the color of the plant leaves tell you what they need. Of course, that color judgement takes experience. The plants in your top photo are too yellow. They need to be greener. If you overfertilize you'll start seeing algae and other simple plant forms growing on top of the seedling trays. And your plants will start behaving strangely. (Just as they are doing now--bending toward the light, too pale--telling you they need something you're not giving them.) So you will need to pay close attention. But you know how to do that. If your day job is making it hard, just be sure they don't dry out, feed them at every other watering, and adjust as necessary. |
|
I use the Jiffy seed starting mix from Lowe's. As near as I can tell, it has no added fertilizer. Sometimes I use the Miracle Gro Seed starting mix, which does have some fertilizer, but this year it was pretty much all Jiffy.
The Pro Mix stuff mentioned above is good if you can find it. It's also pretty expensive (at least when I have seen it) and usually comes in large bales (the size of a bale of peat). I doubt I would be able to use up an entire bale during my winter seed starting and I start quite a few seeds for a home gardener (over 200 this year). You can also make your own mix using a pH balanced peat moss and perlite or vermiculite but I just buy the already made stuff because I don't want to be going through the trouble of sterilizing my mix. I think it is important to start with a sterile mix and that's part of what I like about the smaller bags: they get used up and aren't sitting around open, picking up spores until the next season. Another thing about seed starting that Kitties alluded to but I want to re-emphasize. Whatever media you choose to start your seeds in, pre-moisten it before planting your seeds. Put the mix in a bucket, add some water, and then knead it in with your hands. It doesn't need to be soaking wet, just moist. Less water is better because you can always add a little more if necessary. To fertilize, I wait for the true leaves to appear, and then mix up a dilute solution of all purpose Miracle Gro fertilizer (the blue granular stuff). I mix 0.5 teaspoons of fertilizer (the small end of the spoon that comes with the Miracle Gro) with about 1 gallon of warm water, shake well to dissolve, and then pour it into the totes holding my seedlings so they can absorb the solution from the bottom up. I do this about once a week, which ends up being about every other watering. |
|
Quoted:
I use the Jiffy seed starting mix from Lowe's. As near as I can tell, it has no added fertilizer. Sometimes I use the Miracle Gro Seed starting mix, which does have some fertilizer, but this year it was pretty much all Jiffy. The Pro Mix stuff mentioned above is good if you can find it. It's also pretty expensive (at least when I have seen it) and usually comes in large bales (the size of a bale of peat). I doubt I would be able to use up an entire bale during my winter seed starting and I start quite a few seeds for a home gardener (over 200 this year). You can also make your own mix using a pH balanced peat moss and perlite or vermiculite but I just buy the already made stuff because I don't want to be going through the trouble of sterilizing my mix. I think it is important to start with a sterile mix and that's part of what I like about the smaller bags: they get used up and aren't sitting around open, picking up spores until the next season. Another thing about seed starting that Kitties alluded to but I want to re-emphasize. Whatever media you choose to start your seeds in, pre-moisten it before planting your seeds. Put the mix in a bucket, add some water, and then knead it in with your hands. It doesn't need to be soaking wet, just moist. Less water is better because you can always add a little more if necessary. To fertilize, I wait for the true leaves to appear, and then mix up a dilute solution of all purpose Miracle Gro fertilizer (the blue granular stuff). I mix 0.5 teaspoons of fertilizer (the small end of the spoon that comes with the Miracle Gro) with about 1 gallon of warm water, shake well to dissolve, and then pour it into the totes holding my seedlings so they can absorb the solution from the bottom up. I do this about once a week, which ends up being about every other watering. View Quote We posted about the same time, and I am happy to see our advice is not far off. I've not used the jiffy mix, but that company has been around forever. I would trust it. etA: Also...I buy the bales, but I store the remainder (dry) in Rubbermaid tubs. A bale lasts me a couple of years for potting my containers for the season. For seed starting, a bale would last me at least five years (that's a guess, based on starting in cell packs) |
|
Quoted:
We posted about the same time, and I am happy to see our advice is not far off. I've not used the jiffy mix, but that company has been around forever. I would trust it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I use the Jiffy seed starting mix from Lowe's. As near as I can tell, it has no added fertilizer. Sometimes I use the Miracle Gro Seed starting mix, which does have some fertilizer, but this year it was pretty much all Jiffy. The Pro Mix stuff mentioned above is good if you can find it. It's also pretty expensive (at least when I have seen it) and usually comes in large bales (the size of a bale of peat). I doubt I would be able to use up an entire bale during my winter seed starting and I start quite a few seeds for a home gardener (over 200 this year). You can also make your own mix using a pH balanced peat moss and perlite or vermiculite but I just buy the already made stuff because I don't want to be going through the trouble of sterilizing my mix. I think it is important to start with a sterile mix and that's part of what I like about the smaller bags: they get used up and aren't sitting around open, picking up spores until the next season. Another thing about seed starting that Kitties alluded to but I want to re-emphasize. Whatever media you choose to start your seeds in, pre-moisten it before planting your seeds. Put the mix in a bucket, add some water, and then knead it in with your hands. It doesn't need to be soaking wet, just moist. Less water is better because you can always add a little more if necessary. To fertilize, I wait for the true leaves to appear, and then mix up a dilute solution of all purpose Miracle Gro fertilizer (the blue granular stuff). I mix 0.5 teaspoons of fertilizer (the small end of the spoon that comes with the Miracle Gro) with about 1 gallon of warm water, shake well to dissolve, and then pour it into the totes holding my seedlings so they can absorb the solution from the bottom up. I do this about once a week, which ends up being about every other watering. We posted about the same time, and I am happy to see our advice is not far off. I've not used the jiffy mix, but that company has been around forever. I would trust it. Yup, great minds and all that. I will try to get some pictures of my setup tomorrow. |
|
Thanks for all the great advice! As I said, my seedling starting is a weak point in my system so I really appreciate the advice of folks that are stronger in that area.
|
|
Quoted: Yeah, I know. I have been putting off buying lights because I am cheap. Last year it was fine because we have enough warm days for them to go out and I worked from home so I could put them out and in as needed. This year I am working in the office. I finally gave in last week and ordered some red and blue led's to see if they will do the trick. I will see how it goes. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Your seedlings are begging for more light. I've spent the last few days planting out tomatoes and peppers. I still have a bunch left to plant but am about out of space. It's been so warm that I could have done it at the beginning of the month if I had started everything a little earlier. I need to find more room for some carrots, beans, peas, squash and maybe corn. I need a bigger garden. Yeah, I know. I have been putting off buying lights because I am cheap. Last year it was fine because we have enough warm days for them to go out and I worked from home so I could put them out and in as needed. This year I am working in the office. I finally gave in last week and ordered some red and blue led's to see if they will do the trick. I will see how it goes. I've looked into this for a while but have been lucky enough to have the CC in the other room when looking |
|
Quoted:
What kind did you get? I've looked into this for a while but have been lucky enough to have the CC in the other room when looking View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your seedlings are begging for more light. I've spent the last few days planting out tomatoes and peppers. I still have a bunch left to plant but am about out of space. It's been so warm that I could have done it at the beginning of the month if I had started everything a little earlier. I need to find more room for some carrots, beans, peas, squash and maybe corn. I need a bigger garden. Yeah, I know. I have been putting off buying lights because I am cheap. Last year it was fine because we have enough warm days for them to go out and I worked from home so I could put them out and in as needed. This year I am working in the office. I finally gave in last week and ordered some red and blue led's to see if they will do the trick. I will see how it goes. I've looked into this for a while but have been lucky enough to have the CC in the other room when looking LED red and blue strip lights from Amazon. |
|
I think the organic compost component in your planting mix is robbing the media of nitrogen. (say so if you don't know why and I will explain)
You need to add a little fertilizer to your beds, if the pics render the color accurately. |
|
Quoted:
I think the organic compost component in your planting mix is robbing the media of nitrogen. (say so if you don't know why and I will explain) You need to add a little fertilizer to your beds, if the pics render the color accurately. View Quote Not so much the compost, but it looks like some of the wood chip mulch got mixed in with the soil. That would be less than ideal and is something I think we were discussing in this thread last year. Actual compost wouldn't tie up nitrogen, but some of the crap that gets passed off as "compost" would. Ratling, is Black Kow composted manure? My local Lowes and Home Depot don't seem to carry it. |
|
Quoted:
Not so much the compost, but it looks like some of the wood chip mulch got mixed in with the soil. That would be less than ideal and is something I think we were discussing in this thread last year. Actual compost wouldn't tie up nitrogen, but some of the crap that gets passed off as "compost" would. Ratling, is Black Kow composted manure? My local Lowes and Home Depot don't seem to carry it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I think the organic compost component in your planting mix is robbing the media of nitrogen. (say so if you don't know why and I will explain) You need to add a little fertilizer to your beds, if the pics render the color accurately. Not so much the compost, but it looks like some of the wood chip mulch got mixed in with the soil. That would be less than ideal and is something I think we were discussing in this thread last year. Actual compost wouldn't tie up nitrogen, but some of the crap that gets passed off as "compost" would. Ratling, is Black Kow composted manure? My local Lowes and Home Depot don't seem to carry it. Kitties, The pics were taken at the end of the day, and the light was a little weak. I top-dressed all the beds with almost pure black kow a few weeks ago and tilled it in. CC, Yes, the Black Kow is composted cow manure (see below). I have used it the last few years with excellent results, even without residual fertilizer. I may be seeing some residual negatives from trying the wood chip mulch last year, although I removed most of it at the end of the season. http://blackkow.com/_html/howitsmade.htm |
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.