User Panel
[#1]
Set them inside not on top. Or better yet why not look at running your 4 x 4 all the way to the roof. Lots of support that way.
|
|
[#2]
Quoted:
Set them inside not on top. Or better yet why not look at running your 4 x 4 all the way to the roof. Lots of support that way. View Quote This is true. But, I was trying to make this construction as easy as possible (on me) being this is my first time building a structure.,The plan was to build the floor, sit it on top of the deck bases/piers elevated to 20" via the cut 4"x4"s, and on top of the deck just erect four walls using typical home building wall framing methodology (using 2"x4"s). Then add a stick built roof at a 45 degree angle. In essence, a simple square 8'x8' shed. |
|
[#3]
Quoted:
This is true. But, I was trying to make this construction as easy as possible (on me) being this is my first time building a structure.,The plan was to build the floor, sit it on top of the deck bases/piers elevated to 20" via the cut 4"x4"s, and on top of the deck just erect four walls using typical home building wall framing methodology (using 2"x4"s). Then add a stick built roof at a 45 degree angle. In essence, a simple square 8'x8' shed. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Set them inside not on top. Or better yet why not look at running your 4 x 4 all the way to the roof. Lots of support that way. This is true. But, I was trying to make this construction as easy as possible (on me) being this is my first time building a structure.,The plan was to build the floor, sit it on top of the deck bases/piers elevated to 20" via the cut 4"x4"s, and on top of the deck just erect four walls using typical home building wall framing methodology (using 2"x4"s). Then add a stick built roof at a 45 degree angle. In essence, a simple square 8'x8' shed. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^This is what I did.. I have built coops both ways you have described and have decided it is easier and less lumber involved to set structure on the post rather than run the post through the structure. I use metal plates to mount structure to the post. I use a slant roof for all my outside structures though, I have run the numbers and I am able to save a few dollars by not having a pitched roof. Less material involved with a sloped roof. Spend the saved money on more important things just my .02 |
|
[#4]
Quoted:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^This is what I did.. I have built coops both ways you have described and have decided it is easier and less lumber involved to set structure on the post rather than run the post through the structure. I use metal plates to mount structure to the post. I use a slant roof for all my outside structures though, I have run the numbers and I am able to save a few dollars by not having a pitched roof. Less material involved with a sloped roof. Spend the saved money on more important things just my .02 View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Set them inside not on top. Or better yet why not look at running your 4 x 4 all the way to the roof. Lots of support that way. This is true. But, I was trying to make this construction as easy as possible (on me) being this is my first time building a structure.,The plan was to build the floor, sit it on top of the deck bases/piers elevated to 20" via the cut 4"x4"s, and on top of the deck just erect four walls using typical home building wall framing methodology (using 2"x4"s). Then add a stick built roof at a 45 degree angle. In essence, a simple square 8'x8' shed. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^This is what I did.. I have built coops both ways you have described and have decided it is easier and less lumber involved to set structure on the post rather than run the post through the structure. I use metal plates to mount structure to the post. I use a slant roof for all my outside structures though, I have run the numbers and I am able to save a few dollars by not having a pitched roof. Less material involved with a sloped roof. Spend the saved money on more important things just my .02 Thanks, so how do you attach the floor/joists to your posts? You mentioned metal plates, but could you elaborate? |
|
[#5]
The plates are made by Simpson Strong Tie. The plate screws to the post and the floor framing will sit within the metal plate. Simpson makes many different plates that would work. If you go to home depot website and type in, Model # LPC4Z, those are the plates I use. I am located on top of a hill without any wind block and I have yet to have anything blow over. My largest building sitting on top of post is 10x20 and the smallest being 8x8.
Hope that helps out |
|
[#6]
I'd reconsider the OSB for flooring. Unless you get all OCD about changing out the litter, the floor will get damp. You'd be better off with exterior plywood, unless you're planning on covering the OSB with vinyl flooring or something.
|
|
[#7]
Quoted:
I'd reconsider the OSB for flooring. Unless you get all OCD about changing out the litter, the floor will get damp. You'd be better off with exterior plywood, unless you're planning on covering the OSB with vinyl flooring or something. View Quote Thanks for the advice. I am planning on laying down flooring (was thinking linoleum like what is used in bathrooms or kitchens). I'm not 100% sure what bedding material I will go with for the coop floor. We have horses, so we always have lots of pine shavings. But I've read sand is a great material to use for this. |
|
[#8]
Quoted:
The plates are made by Simpson Strong Tie. The plate screws to the post and the floor framing will sit within the metal plate. Simpson makes many different plates that would work. If you go to home depot website and type in, Model # LPC4Z, those are the plates I use. I am located on top of a hill without any wind block and I have yet to have anything blow over. My largest building sitting on top of post is 10x20 and the smallest being 8x8. Hope that helps out View Quote Like minds think alike, apparently. Those are the exact same brackets I picked up when I got the wood last week. |
|
[#9]
Just notch the 4x4s as you sketched out.
And I would still go with an exterior grade plywood (or Advantech T/G floor sheathing) even if you are covering it to avoid excessive edge swelling, etc. |
|
[#10]
Quoted:
Just notch the 4x4s as you sketched out. And I would still go with an exterior grade plywood (or Advantech T/G floor sheathing) even if you are covering it to avoid excessive edge swelling, etc. View Quote good call. I recently bought a place with a coop and last week cleaned out about 12-14" of straw and shavings. It was still saturated with urine even after 3 months of being unoccupied over the winter. Lots of liquid will be present. My floor has lino and is torn in a couple spots. I am wanting to put another lino layer on for easy cleanup and protection from soaking the plywood floor. |
|
[#11]
Dude, just about every deck in America have the posts inset into the rim boards. It's the normal way to build things like this. The reason you think yours looks so strange is because your run board is the same size as your joist.
But I would run the posts up to the roof. You can then attach sheathing to them. But above all else. It's a f&cking chicken coop. |
|
[#12]
Quoted:
Dude, just about every deck in America have the posts inset into the rim boards. It's the normal way to build things like this. The reason you think yours looks so strange is because your run board is the same size as your joist. But I would run the posts up to the roof. You can then attach sheathing to them. But above all else. It's a f&cking chicken coop. View Quote Dammit,.... realist! |
|
[#13]
Quoted:
Just notch the 4x4s as you sketched out. And I would still go with an exterior grade plywood (or Advantech T/G floor sheathing) even if you are covering it to avoid excessive edge swelling, etc. View Quote I had to look that one up. Found a nice source here. So, I'm going to go pick up two 4'x8' sheets of plywood for the floor, any recommended thickness? Also, is OSB still okay to use for the walls and/or roof? I will be adding siding and asphalt shingles to the roof to keep the water out, but we do gets loads of rain, and humidity during the summer, so using OSB anywhere is of concern. Reason I was using it is because I already have four 4'x8' sheets of it left over from a previous project. |
|
[#14]
Quoted:
I had to look that one up. Found a nice source here. So, I'm going to go pick up two 4'x8' sheets of plywood for the floor, any recommended thickness? Also, is OSB still okay to use for the walls and/or roof? I will be adding siding and asphalt shingles to the roof to keep the water out, but we do gets loads of rain, and humidity during the summer, so using OSB anywhere is of concern. Reason I was using it is because I already have four 4'x8' sheets of it left over from a previous project. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Just notch the 4x4s as you sketched out. And I would still go with an exterior grade plywood (or Advantech T/G floor sheathing) even if you are covering it to avoid excessive edge swelling, etc. I had to look that one up. Found a nice source here. So, I'm going to go pick up two 4'x8' sheets of plywood for the floor, any recommended thickness? Also, is OSB still okay to use for the walls and/or roof? I will be adding siding and asphalt shingles to the roof to keep the water out, but we do gets loads of rain, and humidity during the summer, so using OSB anywhere is of concern. Reason I was using it is because I already have four 4'x8' sheets of it left over from a previous project. I'd guess OSB would be OK even for the floor, if you're planning on covering it with linoleum like you mentioned earlier. But exterior plywood would give an extra level of protection. |
|
[#15]
Quoted:
Dude, just about every deck in America have the posts inset into the rim boards. It's the normal way to build things like this. The reason you think yours looks so strange is because your run board is the same size as your joist. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Dude, just about every deck in America have the posts inset into the rim boards. It's the normal way to build things like this. The reason you think yours looks so strange is because your run board is the same size as your joist. Can you expand on this? Its a foreign language to me. What is a run board? How should it be done? Quoted:But above all else. It's a f&cking chicken coop. a) I am of the "if your going to do a job, do it right and on the first try" mindset, and b) I'm using this as a learning experience for future projects so I want to learn how to do it right |
|
[#16]
Autocorrect got me.
You have a header joist or rim board or whatever you want to call it that holds the ends of the joists and actually supports the structure. On anything with weight this needs to be sized appropriately along with the joists since it is basically carrying the whole load, the joists are just big enough to not deflect. So naturally it is usually beefier than the joists. I would size up the rim to like a 2x8 so I could put two bolts with some spacing through the posts. This also helps keep the posts straight for some lateral bracing. I would not notch the posts because then all you lateral stability is based on what's left of your posts (2x2), not that great. Plus the pita of attaching it. Plus you better be good with a saw if you are not table sawing this. Lastly I would run the posts up to the top and do some banding with 2x like you would a pole barn. Then the 4x4 has the entire height of the coop to keep it straight and strong. Anytime you can use a longer piece and have it braced more is usually a good idea. It won't take but a minute to notch the plywood for the 4x4s and you will save that time later because you can attach the sheathing right to the banding without thinking. |
|
[#18]
Yeppers, just like that.
I did painted plywood for ours, but I am no chicken expert. Is the entrance going to be in the floor. If so then some of the extra 2x8s could be used as header joists around the opening in the floor. Have fun. |
|
[#19]
Quoted:
Is the entrance going to be in the floor. View Quote You lost me there. Entrance in the floor like a tree house where you climb up a ladder through a hole in the floor? I am planning on having the main door on one side, just like a house (though there will be a few outside steps to get up to the level of the coop floor) . Also, any specific material I should use for the carriage bolts to attach the header joists to the posts? Galvanized okay? And any diameter best for carrying this load? 1/2"? bigger? Thanks! |
|
[#20]
Quoted:
Great info!! Thanks. So something like this: http://www.physics.usu.edu/shane/science/starwood/images/construction/frame07.jpg http://www.physics.usu.edu/shane/science/starwood/images/construction/frame12.jpg View Quote Holy cow, your CAD skills just got a lot better!! |
|
[#21]
Quoted:
You lost me there. Entrance in the floor like a tree house where you climb up a ladder through a hole in the floor? I am planning on having the main door on one side, just like a house (though there will be a few outside steps to get up to the level of the coop floor) . Also, any specific material I should use for the carriage bolts to attach the header joists to the posts? Galvanized okay? And any diameter best for carrying this load? 1/2"? bigger? Thanks! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Is the entrance going to be in the floor. You lost me there. Entrance in the floor like a tree house where you climb up a ladder through a hole in the floor? I am planning on having the main door on one side, just like a house (though there will be a few outside steps to get up to the level of the coop floor) . Also, any specific material I should use for the carriage bolts to attach the header joists to the posts? Galvanized okay? And any diameter best for carrying this load? 1/2"? bigger? Thanks! Some put the entrance in the floor and they hop up some steps to get in. If you have a door in the side then never mind. I almost always use grade 8 or gavanized for outdoor stuff just cause it doesn't rust. Galvanized is of course cheaper. Some 1/2" or bigger would look good. Really with 2x8s and half inch bolts your going for looks on this thing. All of it is plenty strong. |
|
[#22]
I don't mean to go off topic and you may have already gave a good argument for using OSB in the thread, but I would highly recommend that you reconsider this. OSB is a great cost-effective, strong alternative to plywood interior spaces that are climate/humidity controlled. Over time in a poorly ventilated, moist environment (ie attics, outside structures, etc.), OSB is prone to delamination from mold and condensation. This is highly controversial, but just my .02.
|
|
[#24]
Quoted:
I don't mean to go off topic and you may have already gave a good argument for using OSB in the thread, but I would highly recommend that you reconsider this. OSB is a great cost-effective, strong alternative to plywood interior spaces that are climate/humidity controlled. Over time in a poorly ventilated, moist environment (ie attics, outside structures, etc.), OSB is prone to delamination from mold and condensation. This is highly controversial, but just my .02. View Quote Thanks for the info! I'm trying to be as economical as possible and use materials I already have on hand. Last year I built two bomb-proof decks to store our winter hay on. They each were 8'x8 and built out of pressure treated 2"x8"x8' sixteen inches on center. turned out they sucked for hay storage because they didn't allow air flow under the hay. This year I'm just storing our winter hay on pallets. So I've got a lot of 2"x8"x8'. I also though the decking I used to cover it was OSB, checked last night and it is 4 sheets of 4'x8' 3/4" plywood. The only wood I've had to buy so far is the 2"x4" for framing, and the four 4"x4" corner posts. I will be using the 3/4" plywood I already have for the floor, and since that leaves me with two more panels I'm just going to finish the walls off with the same stuff (although I will have to buy six more sheets of it). For the roof, I will go with something lighter (either thinner plywood, or OSB). |
|
[#25]
Quoted:
4x4's with 1/2" galvanized thru bolts will work fine with the posts cut off under the floor. You will only have to buy one 4x4 like this. Just make sure you tie the wall corners together good. I just finished building one this past Sat. <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/nate51/media/IMG_20140413_191441-1.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/nate51/IMG_20140413_191441-1.jpg</a> <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/nate51/media/IMG_20140413_191418-1.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v601/nate51/IMG_20140413_191418-1.jpg</a> Still need to put the latch on the door in the fence and paint. View Quote Nice coop. Are your 4x4 posts in the ground a good few feet? The difference with my build is I'm not going into the ground, I'm going to be setting this on deck bases, and from there use 4x4 posts as risers. If I were to cut the 4x4 posts to one foot, even attached via brackets to the floor/joists, it doesn't seem as structurally stable compared to running the 4x4 posts all the way to the roof. |
|
[#26]
The one above looks really nice.
My last comment would be how many chickens are you planning? An 8x8 is pretty freaking big for chickens unless you are planning on 15 or more IMHO. We had 4 at one point in a 2x4 coop. They only go in there to lay eggs or if it is super cold out and if they are laying eggs they usually share only a couple spots. A separate area for each of them is a waste, they will share intentionally. |
|
[#27]
Quoted:
Nice coop. Are your 4x4 posts in the ground a good few feet? The difference with my build is I'm not going into the ground, I'm going to be setting this on deck bases, and from there use 4x4 posts as risers. If I were to cut the 4x4 posts to one foot, even attached via brackets to the floor/joists, it doesn't seem as structurally stable compared to running the 4x4 posts all the way to the roof. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
snip. Nice coop. Are your 4x4 posts in the ground a good few feet? The difference with my build is I'm not going into the ground, I'm going to be setting this on deck bases, and from there use 4x4 posts as risers. If I were to cut the 4x4 posts to one foot, even attached via brackets to the floor/joists, it doesn't seem as structurally stable compared to running the 4x4 posts all the way to the roof. I dug thru the topsoil and set a paver block on firm ground with the 4x4 on top of that. The top of the block is 3" tops below grade and the coop is rock solid. We had a very heavy wind a couple days ago and it didn't move any. It would definitely be a stronger build if you ran the posts thru the floor and all the way to the roof, but it will cost you more lumber in posts and 2x4's to fir out the posts on the corners. In my case I had all the material left over from jobs except for the siding. Didn't have enough posts to go to the roof so I didn't. |
|
[#29]
Quoted:
The one above looks really nice. My last comment would be how many chickens are you planning? An 8x8 is pretty freaking big for chickens unless you are planning on 15 or more IMHO. We had 4 at one point in a 2x4 coop. They only go in there to lay eggs or if it is super cold out and if they are laying eggs they usually share only a couple spots. A separate area for each of them is a waste, they will share intentionally. View Quote We are starting with 8 birds, but I want room to grow our flock. |
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.