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Link Posted: 5/1/2017 7:33:27 PM EDT
[#1]
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
I would start with one frame of capped brood and wait a week or two to see how they look.
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Originally Posted By cuttingedge:
Originally Posted By HitmanMonkey:


Not as good as the other hive. I might give them a frame of brood to see if that helps.
I would start with one frame of capped brood and wait a week or two to see how they look.
Thanks.
Link Posted: 5/1/2017 7:56:35 PM EDT
[#2]
New page?
Link Posted: 5/2/2017 9:05:51 AM EDT
[#3]
Yup.
Link Posted: 5/2/2017 11:09:05 AM EDT
[#4]
Does anyone have issues with the frame feeders?

I bought two like this:

https://www.mannlakeltd.com/shop-all-categories/hive-colony-maintenance/feeders/pro-feeders/9-1-8-pro-feeder-2-wide-1-gallon

And I ordered one each from two different places. The second one came with a board like this, but no ladder or cross pieces, and the board is almost too wide for it:

https://www.mannlakeltd.com/shop-all-categories/hive-colony-maintenance/feeders/pro-feeders/9-1-8-pro-feeder-2-wide-1-gallon-with-cap-ladder

They seem to work fine without the board or the ladder, with one exception. They kind of pooch out and press against the frame next to it. On my hive, it looks like the queen laid brood around the area that wasn't touching, leaving a saucer sized area with nothing, A few brood cells were stuck directly on the feeder itself. Should I worry about this? It looks like on the upgraded model, there are clamps? Or is that orings? I was thinking about melting some holes in the top and putting a zip tie in there. Anyone have a similar issue?

Like I said, it works fine. The bees completely cleaned it out in 6 days. ONE GALLON IN SIX DAYS. It's not sticky, it's not sugary, it's clean like brand new inside. I slowly refilled it and inspected everything. They've built an incredible amount of comb in 6 days, with a ton of pollen. I bought some pollen thinking I would supplement, but it doesn't look like they need it. I'll save it for winter. The only thing I thought was weird was laying brood right next to and up against the feeder.
Link Posted: 5/2/2017 12:08:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cuttingedge] [#5]
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Originally Posted By joemama74:
Does anyone have issues with the frame feeders?

I bought two like this:

https://www.mannlakeltd.com/shop-all-categories/hive-colony-maintenance/feeders/pro-feeders/9-1-8-pro-feeder-2-wide-1-gallon

And I ordered one each from two different places. The second one came with a board like this, but no ladder or cross pieces, and the board is almost too wide for it:

https://www.mannlakeltd.com/shop-all-categories/hive-colony-maintenance/feeders/pro-feeders/9-1-8-pro-feeder-2-wide-1-gallon-with-cap-ladder

They seem to work fine without the board or the ladder, with one exception. They kind of pooch out and press against the frame next to it. On my hive, it looks like the queen laid brood around the area that wasn't touching, leaving a saucer sized area with nothing, A few brood cells were stuck directly on the feeder itself. Should I worry about this? It looks like on the upgraded model, there are clamps? Or is that orings? I was thinking about melting some holes in the top and putting a zip tie in there. Anyone have a similar issue?

Like I said, it works fine. The bees completely cleaned it out in 6 days. ONE GALLON IN SIX DAYS. It's not sticky, it's not sugary, it's clean like brand new inside. I slowly refilled it and inspected everything. They've built an incredible amount of comb in 6 days, with a ton of pollen. I bought some pollen thinking I would supplement, but it doesn't look like they need it. I'll save it for winter. The only thing I thought was weird was laying brood right next to and up against the feeder.
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The one without the cap and ladder is going to drown bees. My advice is stick a piece of screen folded like an accordion inside or two sticks criss crossed so that they can get out. In a pinch you could stuff some straw on top of the syrup. I know that the side walls are textured but that is not enough. As far as them drawing comb up against the feeder, push the nearest frame tight up against it. That should help. If not, clean up the burr comb often before it becomes a problem. If you think 1 gallon in six days is a lot, wait until fall. Some of my hives will suck down 2-3 gallons in a week
Link Posted: 5/2/2017 10:40:25 PM EDT
[#6]
Link Posted: 5/3/2017 2:15:49 PM EDT
[#7]
I have some building to do
Link Posted: 5/3/2017 5:58:46 PM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 5/3/2017 9:17:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FrankSymptoms] [#9]
Mixed news today.
I checked my new hive yesterday. I found LOTS of capped and uncapped larvae! The queen is busily doing her little queenly thing.

I checked my old hive today. That's where the mixed news is.

There are several hundred dead drones outside the entrance. Just lying there in a pile. I don't know what to make of it, except that a couple of days ago there was a short (1 night) cold snap, with temps below 30, plus some rain. I put the winter jackets on the hives and took them off today.

I found several (30-40) capped worker cells, at the LAST frame in the hive (the one farthest from the entrance and farthest from the first four frames I started with last year, and with the newest comb in the hive.) So the queen is there, working her queenly stuff.

I also found (shudder) ONE queen cell! It was on the edge of a comb and looked about like this:

So should I expect the entire bunch to swarm and leave, or half of them? Which queen stays behind, the old matriarch or the newbee?

AND:

I got stung on the nose. Hope this isn't a problem.

ETA Apparently not. But 20 minutes after the sting, it ISN'T the worst sting I've ever had.

I was worried about the venom being so close to the brain, so they say. Can't find any literature on it.

It sort of feels like a sore tooth.
Link Posted: 5/3/2017 9:42:12 PM EDT
[#10]
Addendum to the above: The hive has about 1/3 of the box remaining. If you count the fact that not all the bars are completely filled with comb, then its more like a bit less than 1/2 full. So they aren't running out of space... even if they are packed dreadlocks to tushie on the bars that are full of comb.

It's possible that they are too warm. I kept the winter jacket on the hive till about 3 weeks ago... then a predicted cold snap 2-3 nights ago had me put it back on. The final cold snap in this neighborhood is usually May 5th. So I think it came early.
Link Posted: 5/3/2017 10:39:18 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 5/3/2017 11:04:40 PM EDT
[#12]

Is the queen cell capped?
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Yes.
Link Posted: 5/3/2017 11:13:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#13]
Link Posted: 5/3/2017 11:49:53 PM EDT
[#14]
Do you know how long the queen cell has been capped?

When were you last in the hive?
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I checked it last week, There was no queen cell then, only drones.
Link Posted: 5/3/2017 11:57:43 PM EDT
[#15]
I'm also in contact with a guy who may have queens to sell. He just came in from California with a tractor of packages.
Link Posted: 5/4/2017 12:00:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#16]
Link Posted: 5/4/2017 9:35:36 AM EDT
[#17]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
There must have been at least some worker brood.


Either way, you have some choices.

You can ask your bee mentor to sell you a frame of brood from a good queen, and install that, hoping your colony will make a good new queen... (this will require that you destroy your current queen cell and probably smoosh your current queen, but that's assuming you can find her.)

You can let it ride out and see if the new queen takes over and does well (doubtful)

I think, either way, you need somebody over there to help you find the old queen once you decide what to do.

You can't introduce a new queen if the old one is there.

If the new queen in the cell hatches, she might or might not win over the old queen.  It depends.

And if she does, will she be any better?  Doubtful.  Same genetics.  (CE will know a lot more about this than I do, as he's deep into bee genetics right now.  I cannot even APPROACH what he knows at this point.)

Either way, you have to take action with that hive, and it appears to me that you need a new queen.

Do you have a place to get one?  (order, ask mentors, queen breeder in your area, etc?)

ETA:  I see that you have somethign coming in...maybe a possibility.

You have to decide if that is where you want to get your queen.

BUT...you ALSO have to get in touch with the master beekeepers in your area.  Get one of them to come out to your house and find the queen in that colony.  You have to deal with THAT queen before you try to introduce a new one.
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Is this a langstroth or top bar hive?
If your current queen is not marked, she may have already been superceeded and you would not know. At this point, I would let the cell hatch and see what happens. The colony could be superceeding her if she is damaged or is not performing well. Let nature take its course. If you want to get rid of her and requeen that hive, you will have to do a thorough inspection by shaking off the bees on every frame and removing any queen cups/ cells as well as the current queen. Leave it queenless for a day and add the new queen in her cage. Check back in 3-4 days to make sure that she was accepted and remove the cage. Otherwise you could add a frame of capped/ open brood with eggs from your other hive and they should make queen cells for you. If you want to add another hive, you could do a split from your good hive and go in and harvest a cell from the split to give to your old hive as well as leaving a few for the new split. In that case you could gain a hive and requeen the underperforming hive.
Link Posted: 5/4/2017 11:59:55 AM EDT
[#18]
Link Posted: 5/4/2017 1:11:51 PM EDT
[#19]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:


CE, I think he's doing Top Bar.

What caught my attention is that he was seeing only drone brood, and now he's seeing some worker brood.  Evidence, maybe, that there has been supercedure already.  BUT...clearly they're making another one.  The thing is, he's been in there often enough I think he would have seen supercedure cells if they'd made them before now.
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That is why I asked if he had a marked queen. If not, it would be nearly impossible to tell if she had already been superceeded. Some queens just lay a lot of drone brood. IMO, if I had one that was laying a lot of drone brood, I would replace her. I think that he needs to have someone local go through the hives and tell him exactly what is going on. If he wants, he could take a picture of both sides of every frame and post them here and we may be able to decipher what is going on.
Link Posted: 5/4/2017 5:38:36 PM EDT
[#20]
Link Posted: 5/4/2017 5:39:55 PM EDT
[#21]
Link Posted: 5/4/2017 6:08:29 PM EDT
[#22]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:


yes, maybe.

Even so, that would not help him find his existing queen or catch and remove her if that's what he needs to do.

I agree completely on getting local help.

It's time for that.
View Quote
Agreed, he needs to be able to indentify his queen. It is very important to be able to spot her. This is why I am a big advocate of having marked queens. They are easier to spot, you know their age and can also easily tell if they have been replaced. Beyond that, someone local that has experience should be able to go through and tell him what's going on.
Link Posted: 5/4/2017 9:30:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cuttingedge] [#23]
I am going to try making some splits next week. Unfortunately the weather is not cooperating and it has been raining and chilly at night. It occurred to me how strong my Overwintered hives are because of insulating them and feeding them pollen sub at the right time or at least I would like to think that those are the reasons. So my with that in mind, I decided to make a custom insulation wrap for one of my queen castles in hopes of keeping the brood and cells a little warmer. Maybe this will enable be to get a jump start on getting some splits going a little earlier than usual.

Link Posted: 5/5/2017 10:05:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: SmokeEater2] [#24]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
You will be surprised...a gallon in six days is not that much.  I've had bees take a gallon in half that time.  

The only thing about the frame feeders I've seen is that they generally drown bees.  I have not seen the latest adaptations to know whether they have ways to avoid this.  (I mean I have not seen them in use.)

Drowning bees really bothers me, but some beekeepers don't have issues with it.
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
Originally Posted By joemama74:
Does anyone have issues with the frame feeders?

I bought two like this:

https://www.mannlakeltd.com/shop-all-categories/hive-colony-maintenance/feeders/pro-feeders/9-1-8-pro-feeder-2-wide-1-gallon

And I ordered one each from two different places. The second one came with a board like this, but no ladder or cross pieces, and the board is almost too wide for it:

https://www.mannlakeltd.com/shop-all-categories/hive-colony-maintenance/feeders/pro-feeders/9-1-8-pro-feeder-2-wide-1-gallon-with-cap-ladder

They seem to work fine without the board or the ladder, with one exception. They kind of pooch out and press against the frame next to it. On my hive, it looks like the queen laid brood around the area that wasn't touching, leaving a saucer sized area with nothing, A few brood cells were stuck directly on the feeder itself. Should I worry about this? It looks like on the upgraded model, there are clamps? Or is that orings? I was thinking about melting some holes in the top and putting a zip tie in there. Anyone have a similar issue?

Like I said, it works fine. The bees completely cleaned it out in 6 days. ONE GALLON IN SIX DAYS. It's not sticky, it's not sugary, it's clean like brand new inside. I slowly refilled it and inspected everything. They've built an incredible amount of comb in 6 days, with a ton of pollen. I bought some pollen thinking I would supplement, but it doesn't look like they need it. I'll save it for winter. The only thing I thought was weird was laying brood right next to and up against the feeder.
You will be surprised...a gallon in six days is not that much.  I've had bees take a gallon in half that time.  

The only thing about the frame feeders I've seen is that they generally drown bees.  I have not seen the latest adaptations to know whether they have ways to avoid this.  (I mean I have not seen them in use.)

Drowning bees really bothers me, but some beekeepers don't have issues with it.
 I've been using the Mann Lake frame feeders with caps and ladders (medium size) for 2 years now and they've worked great for me with very little drowning. They have really been handy the last two weeks with the daily rain we've had. I had just started a new Nuc and the feeders have pulled them through and they are going like gang busters now.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 11:05:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#25]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 11:16:01 AM EDT
[#26]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 11:28:49 AM EDT
[#27]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:


@SmokeEater2  do you have flooding where you are?  I've seen some awful photos from your state.
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 Yes we had quite a bit. My creek jumped the banks and flooded about an acre of pasture and my 11 year old Great Pyrenees got washed into the pond and drowned. Poor old guy just wasn't strong enough to fight his way to higher ground.  I know several beekeepers that lost hives in this mess but luckily mine came through ok.

Lots of roads washed out and bridges damaged and impassible and structures damaged. We were much luckier than Missouri though, They had had towns completely flooded out. The town of Gainesville is less than 20 miles away and they got hit much harder than my town.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 12:42:51 PM EDT
[#28]
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Originally Posted By SmokeEater2:



 Yes we had quite a bit. My creek jumped the banks and flooded about an acre of pasture and my 11 year old Great Pyrenees got washed into the pond and drowned. Poor old guy just wasn't strong enough to fight his way to higher ground.  I know several beekeepers that lost hives in this mess but luckily mine came through ok.

Lots of roads washed out and bridges damaged and impassible and structures damaged. We were much luckier than Missouri though, They had had towns completely flooded out. The town of Gainesville is less than 20 miles away and they got hit much harder than my town.
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Sorry to hear about your flooding! Our very own Rio Grande is over its banks right now.

Regarding my own problem: My sister, a beek in Carmel Valley, CA, proposed moving the queen cell and some other worker cells into the far half of the hive (mine is a rather large top bar hive) with some empty bars and a little comb, and putting in a divider, to make 2 hives out of it! The second hive would have a north- or west-facing entrance, which is contrary to normal practice, but it just might save the day. The far side of the hive is where the new worker cells are located. There's honey there, too.

What say ye?
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 1:27:06 PM EDT
[#29]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:

The companies have obviously listened to the beekeepers and worked on those feeders.  When they first came out (or at least, when I first started beekeeping) they were nothing but an empty, plastic, slick-sided pit full of sugar water, and once a bee got wet, there was no way out.
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I had one fall in while I was slowly filling it. It looked like one of his buddies grabbed him and they climbed up the side. I didn't have any dead bees in it the first week, but I'll check it again this Sunday. I'm probably going to mod the other feeder so it doesn't bulge and swap it out on Sunday.

I also saw a dude using an empty top box and a baby chick watering jar in a youtube video. Actually I've seen several top box feeders like that, what keeps them from building comb in there?
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 2:28:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FrankSymptoms] [#30]
Yet another update!

Seems I have a LOT  more worker brood than I thought! My inexperienced eyes thought that some of the worker brood was honey.
I scratched open a couple of these cells and instead of honey, I had two baby bee eyes looking out at me! (HobbitWife calls me a baby killer now! What are the penalties for apicide?)

Also, I found FOUR Queen cups! One was covered over, the others were empty. I was excited about the big one and didn't see the others. I've included some pics of the queen chambers.




So it seems that instead of swarming, they are preparing a palace coup. Getting rid of the old queen.
Now, I've seen bees about the area since I moved in here; they love some of the plants that grow on my place. So there's a good chance that a virgin queen will make a successful mating flight. Wild or "kept" bees, there are bees for her to mate with.

I've moved the cups into the far "empty" end of the hive, with some developed comb. I scanned for the old queen but cannot be sure I didn't move her too. I put a divider between the two halves of the hive box.

Here's a pic of the partially opened hive:


The rest of the hive is as before: busy as... well, bees.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 4:19:08 PM EDT
[#31]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 4:22:48 PM EDT
[#32]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 4:36:17 PM EDT
[#33]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
I see at least three capped queen cells on that comb.  I would not divide that frame I don't think, but maybe CE will weigh in. What you need is to get help out there to look in your hive.  

The bees will make the decision about the queen and who will live or die unless you catch the old one and destroy her.  
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
Originally Posted By FrankSymptoms:
Yet another update!

Seems I have a LOT  more worker brood than I thought! My inexperienced eyes thought that some of the worker brood was honey.
I scratched open a couple of these cells and instead of honey, I had two baby bee eyes looking out at me! (HobbitWife calls me a baby killer now! What are the penalties for apicide?)

Also, I found FOUR Queen cups! One was covered over, the others were empty. I was excited about the big one and didn't see the others. I've included some pics of the queen chambers.

http://i68.tinypic.com/f28m8.jpg
http://i65.tinypic.com/a0fiug.jpg

So it seems that instead of swarming, they are preparing a palace coup. Getting rid of the old queen.
Now, I've seen bees about the area since I moved in here; they love some of the plants that grow on my place. So there's a good chance that a virgin queen will make a successful mating flight. Wild or "kept" bees, there are bees for her to mate with.

I've moved the cups into the far "empty" end of the hive, with some developed comb. I scanned for the old queen but cannot be sure I didn't move her too. I put a divider between the two halves of the hive box.

Here's a pic of the partially opened hive:
http://i67.tinypic.com/119w08j.jpg

The rest of the hive is as before: busy as... well, bees.
I see at least three capped queen cells on that comb.  I would not divide that frame I don't think, but maybe CE will weigh in. What you need is to get help out there to look in your hive.  

The bees will make the decision about the queen and who will live or die unless you catch the old one and destroy her.  
First thing is that you have to make sure that you find your queen. If your intention was to make a split, you need to make sure that the queen is not in the same compartment as the queen cells. As kitties suggested,you need to see if you can get a local beekeeper with experience to go through your hives with you and explain what is going on and what to look for.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 8:04:07 PM EDT
[#34]
I have a call in to the guy who started my hive, but frankly, he's so busy I doubt he'll make it out.
The guy who sold me my new bee box lives about 50 miles away, I don't think he usually comes into town.
So I'll have to keep looking.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 8:21:03 PM EDT
[#35]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 8:39:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#36]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 8:58:43 PM EDT
[#37]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
@Frank_symptoms,

These, with the red arrows, look like queen cells.


http://www.fototime.com/54B2210E21E2840/standard.jpg

On this frame, the red arrow points to a queen cell that looks capped.

The blue arrows point to queen cups.

Is that not correct?

http://www.fototime.com/0B35EF05AE3B2BE/standard.jpg

Edited cuz I switched my colors.
View Quote
Yes, lots of cups and capped cells. If that hive has a queen, they are either superseding her or preparing to swarm.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 9:05:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#38]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 9:15:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cuttingedge] [#39]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:
@Frank_symptoms,

These, with the red arrows, look like queen cells.


http://www.fototime.com/54B2210E21E2840/standard.jpg

On this frame, the red arrow points to a queen cell that looks capped.

The blue arrows point to queen cups.

Is that not correct?

http://www.fototime.com/0B35EF05AE3B2BE/standard.jpg

Edited cuz I switched my colors.
View Quote
Double post
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 9:18:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cuttingedge] [#40]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:


Frank sent me an IM, wondering why I counted as I did.

He had observed only one capped cell and was confused.

Either the photo is deceiving, or he has more than he realizes is happening.

I encouraged him to post his questions here, as the education is great for all newer beekeepers.  Then I made those images with the arrows.
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I count three capped cells in the first photo and one capped along with three queen cups in the second photo.
Edit: I don't know if that bottom one in the first photo is an actual capped cell. Could just be capped brood. He absolutely has more than one capped cell.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 9:22:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#41]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 9:24:33 PM EDT
[#42]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:


Me too, but I suspect there are more on the frame.  I suspect there may be a second capped cell (or nearly capped) above the first one in that first frame.  Just the shape of the comb and the attention that bumpout is getting make me think that.

BUT...then I thought...maybe this is the same frame, taken from a lower angle, and those cells that looked capped were actually not.  

I see a queen cup on the first pic too, I think, about half way down...
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between the second and third capped cell? It could be a cup but it's not easy to tell from the picture.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 9:25:42 PM EDT
[#43]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 9:31:09 PM EDT
[#44]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 9:34:25 PM EDT
[#45]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 9:45:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: cuttingedge] [#46]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:


Everything in my psyche tells me that's a queen cell.  See how it's set apart...just a little...from the rest of the comb?  It's got that form.

I don't know that, but my gut immediately said, "queen cell."

CE, at some point, if you wanted to do a write up on how a hive builds a queen, and what to look for (maybe you could use some photos of your queen rearing nucs) that would be such a great resource for new beekeepers.

There are some things on the web, but surprisingly little that tells the whole story from start to finish, with pics.

If you needed to watermark some pics (are you set up to do that?) I'd be happy to do it for you.
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I will be happy to share some photos this season with an explanation of the process of rearing queens along with the calendar that should be followed when doing it. This should help some that want to make splits or start queen rearing on their own. Yes I am set-up to watermark photos but I don't feel that it is necessary. I should be starting in about 10-14 days by setting up my cell builder hives. I will document what the process is and share some pics. Soon after that (weather dependent) I should be able to start grafting and placing grafts into the cell builder/ finishing hives. After that the process is to remove cells, place them into mating Nucs and wait for the virgins to get successfully mated and start laying. Next it's marking them, caging them with attendants and adding them to hives or selling them. I am also going to be selling queen cells in cell protectors and will show how to put them into the protectors and add them to a queenless hive. Hopefully it will help some inserstand the process and equipment involved.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 10:52:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#47]
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 11:51:18 PM EDT
[#48]
I finally got the bush hog out today and hooked it up to the new tractor. 66hp with a six ft bush hog. That thing was unstoppable and the bees did not care. I put on my veil, but only got attacked on my arms by quarter sized tiger striped mosquitoes. Very gentle bees.
Link Posted: 5/5/2017 11:58:26 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Kitties-with-Sigs] [#49]
Link Posted: 5/6/2017 6:39:36 AM EDT
[#50]
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Originally Posted By Kitties-with-Sigs:


honestly you could do a MUCH simpler write-up.


"How bees make a new queen."  And use photos from your operation.

THAT is what I think should be watermarked, because I think if you posted it somewhere it will get a LOT of hits on the web. I guess this site gets hits same as any other, like blogs and university sites and such. The bots troll everything for data.

Anyway, as a new beekeeper, I did not understand certain aspects, and there was no good resource with photos and a simple explanation of how things happened.

The bee life cycles starts here.

A worker bee gets capped at X days, hatches at X days.

The same egg that makes a worker also makes a queen.

There are two ways that a queen gets made.

1-The bees make a queen cup (a special cell, built larger than other honeycomb cells)  and get the queen to lay an egg in that cup.

2-If something has happened to the queen in a bee colony, and they unexpectedly need a new one, the bees can take a previously laid egg (from X age to X age) and turn that egg into a queen.


IN that case....

Once the bees in the colony decide that egg should be a queen, they treat it differently..  

1-they begin feeding it royal jelly (which is XXXX) as early as X day and as late as X day.

2- blah blah blah

blah blah blah.


Seriously...there is nothing this clear and concise on the web that I have found.

People either make it too basic and dumbed down,

or they leave stuff out that leaves big holes in the information, assuming people already know certain things.

no, no, NO (to them)

Somebody needs to tell the whole story. With pics....that would be an ebook that you could publish and SELL.

Just sayin.

ETA: There is a huge gap in information for people who do not want to buy "The hive and the honeybee"

You have the raw data to fill that gap.

You could make an e-book and publish it and it would be of great value.



I edit books for a living.  I don't mean I find a capital letter that is missing. (yes, I do that, too)   I mean I find what's wrong with the information in the book.  Where it's not clear.  Where it doesn't make sense.

If you decide to to do an ebook and need help with editing or knowing what's missing in the information (it's obvious to you but not to your reader) I am offering right here, to help you with that.

Put it together.  Sell it for $5.  You will make money.
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We can do this together. A collaboration of sorts to get it done and presented in a clear and concise manner.
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