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Posted: 3/11/2017 10:18:04 PM EDT
My brother (current roommate) ended up buying an older cummins blue bird school bus. He has been building it into a tiny house for a bit now and I started to wonder why not me. I opted to do the cargo trailer mainly so I can park my motorcycle in it. After a few weeks debating the whole thing I decided to pull the trigger on the project as my lease is up this summer. I've already got the land to park it on with utilities and plan on living in it full time for the first couple years. Still unsure what to do with all my firearms as I cannot feasibly fit a gun safe in this thing. I will build secret compartments where I can to stash them around the trailer but in the end some may have to be sold unless I can figure out something else. Anyone who has done this before I would appreciate some input. I work construction so building this thing out is not necessarily the issue, maximizing the amount of space I have is the real problem.
Anyway the trailer is a 7x7x16 with a fold down back ramp and RV side door. 
First the walls were pulled down to insulate everything. I started to plan out the front which is where majority of the work will be starting. 
Another weekend of rain but I have the bathroom wall up, electrical panel in and will be starting on kitchen counter top next. I plan on completing the things I absolutely need to live first and the rest will be completed in time. I will post some more up to date pictures as soon as the weather gets better. |
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Posted: 3/11/2017 11:10:10 PM EDT
[#1]
I'm still waiting on some 50a RV cord caps before I can get power inside so you'll have to excuse the low light. I picked this thing up a week ago so progress is happening fairly quick and hopefully will continue to do so.
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Posted: 3/11/2017 11:22:44 PM EDT
[#2]
Loom forward to seeing the finished product
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Posted: 3/12/2017 1:47:21 AM EDT
[#3]
I plan on completing the things I absolutely need to live first Ventilation will be a biggie, particularly in Texas with summer coming. If you want to avoid windows for OPSEC's sake, a couple of roof vents will be almost essential. You need 2, because you can't force air into an enclosure that doesn't also have somewhere for it to exit. They won't move much air on their own, so one of them needs to be powered. Fan-Tastic makes some good ones - They're sold at Camping World, and on Amazon. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 2:53:50 AM EDT
[#4]
I'll be adding a 12k BTU mini-split before I actually move into it. As of now I don't plan on adding any windows, that may change down the road but I don't foresee it. Unfortunately this trailer didn't come with a vent on the roof, also something else I would like to avoid adding. I'll be looking into some sort of screens for the door and possibly the ramp to get some good airflow going on the cooler days.
In saying that I meant like the shower probably won't be a priority as I will be able to hook up a head to the propane water heater outside. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 8:13:55 AM EDT
[#5]
Tag.
I like these build threads. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 10:17:52 AM EDT
[#6]
Awesome. Keep us updated!
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Posted: 3/12/2017 10:18:20 AM EDT
[#7]
Cool project, build it and then sell it for profit. I think anything beyond a week or two would be miserable. I do love these build threads though, but if your good at it it could be a second job for you.
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Posted: 3/12/2017 11:17:07 AM EDT
[#8]
I hear you on the building these for a living, it's damn tempting. I make a good living working in the trades though at least for now while Austin is booming. Housing prices have skyrocketed here to a point I'm really not comfortable paying. I work anywhere from 10-12hrs a day so I'm basically just coming home to eat/sleep/cleanup and I'm only willing to pay so much to do that. As of right now I rent with 2 roommates and I'm getting too old to be dealing with the shit having roommates entails, plus moving every few years sucks. I'm not claustrophobic by any means so this should be rather enjoyable I would think depending on how many creature comforts I can fit into this thing.
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Posted: 3/12/2017 11:19:19 AM EDT
[#9]
Cool idea!
I was wondering why 2x4 walls? Seems like it would waste a lot of room inside. I thought about using C-channel and some sort of panels to make partitions instead of walls. 2x4s would simplify things maybe- common hardware and such. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 11:31:58 AM EDT
[#10]
So basically the bathroom wall I added will be the only wall addition, the rest will be as open as possible. The main reason for the 2x4's were the electrical panel (flush mount obviously requires them) and I will be using a full size interior house door for the bathroom. I didn't think it would be worth trying to save an inch or so here and then having to work around these things I know I wanted. I've pretty much watched or seen majority of the cargo trailer builds by now and I have not seen one that actually had a real bathroom with a door that can be closed. That was like my main requirement when starting this.
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Posted: 3/12/2017 11:46:28 AM EDT
[#11]
I'm going to slap some .99 "wood" snap together floor on this thing sometime this week and start to get the ball rolling on the kitchen area. There will be a 16ish gallon fresh water tank under the sink, grey water will either dump to the ground or an external tank when required. I will not be adding a black water tank to this thing because fuck that. Right now I plan on mounting a toilet seat to a piece of wood with a 5gal bucket under it and using trash bags. Sounds crude but its simple and effective, composting toilet may be a future upgrade still deciding. Eventually the idea is to retire this thing to only camping trips so some of these things won't be as much of an issue at that point.
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Posted: 3/12/2017 2:03:21 PM EDT
[#12]
12 volt fresh water pumps are a PITA - they require a lot of space (particularly with the plumbing), and they tend to break often.
Several manufacturers make sink faucets with a built-in hand pump - commonly sold in boating supply stores. Loacating the freshwater tank near the ceiling would be another way of avoiding the need for a water pump - doesn't take much elevation to gravity-feed a sink faucet. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 3:17:33 PM EDT
[#13]
Started working on the counter tops today. Moved the sink away from the wall to put the mini fridge in its place so I can put a counter top over it. The plywood will be scabbed over with pallet wood and epoxied/sealed.
Honestly I haven't decided if I want to go with a 12v or 120v water pump yet. I don't plan on adding an inverter until down the road so that might make up my mind for me. The hand pump does sound nice and simple but I don't know if I want to go that bare bones. I guess it depends on how long it takes me to decide what kinda of shower I want to put in. I do know come winter time I will want the water heater up and running which will need a pump regardless. Im definitely building this thing on a budget somewhat but I'm trying my best not to skimp out too much on important things. You would be amazed at all the free stuff I can get from our jobsites, that alone goes a long way. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 3:26:24 PM EDT
[#14]
Very cool. Love these types of threads.
Good luck! |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 4:02:47 PM EDT
[#15]
I did a cargo trailer conversion a few years ago. We use it for camping. We like it. Yours is much bigger than mine though.
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Posted: 3/12/2017 4:37:02 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did a cargo trailer conversion a few years ago. We use it for camping. We like it. Yours is much bigger than mine though. Don't be shy, post some pics. I'm always looking for different ideas. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 4:41:23 PM EDT
[#17]
Counter tops are done for the most part except the trim around the edges. I left that off for now since I will likely be removing it to finish sanding and sealing. Did I mention how much of a fan we are of pallet wood around here? The local hipsters are going to be all over this thing If I ever decide to sell it.
When I mentioned putting the floor in I totally forgot about not having A/C in it yet. I know when I put the laminate flooring in my old house I had to let it sit for a couple days to acclimate, although I was putting it down over concrete. Could I put it down and just brad nail it to keep it from warping? Is warping even an issue with this stuff? I'm probably at least 2-3 months away from being able to afford the mini split I want so I don't want that holding me up on flooring. 
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Posted: 3/12/2017 5:07:46 PM EDT
[#18]
Why not just buy a cheap used camper and call it done ?
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Posted: 3/12/2017 5:18:39 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Why not just buy a cheap used camper and call it done ? That's a weird question to ask someone who is a 1/4 of the way through building one. I already own this one so that rules that out plus like you said it would be "cheap"as in made quickly with shitty materials. Did I mention I would be hauling my motorcycle in this with me? That's obviously not something that's possible in a conventional TT/camper. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 5:30:31 PM EDT
[#20]
I have the same trailer and was going too do same conversion I looked around found a 24 foot camper for $1000 put a trailer hitch on it and a versa haul bike carrier much more comfortable . I do like the stealth aspect of the conversion and you are doing a fantastic job . I saw one with a bed that retracted from the ceiling to save room for ATV/motorcycle . Look up stealth campers lot of cool ideas , good luck in your build I look forward to seeing the finished camper
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Posted: 3/12/2017 5:35:55 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Don't be shy, post some pics. I'm always looking for different ideas. I have a thread in the archives. I think all the pics are still linked. Check out the TnTTT site. They have a forum for cargo trailer conversions as well. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 5:41:19 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Counter tops are done for the most part except the trim around the edges. I left that off for now since I will likely be removing it to finish sanding and sealing. Did I mention how much of a fan we are of pallet wood around here? The local hipsters are going to be all over this thing If I ever decide to sell it. When I mentioned putting the floor in I totally forgot about not having A/C in it yet. I know when I put the laminate flooring in my old house I had to let it sit for a couple days to acclimate, although I was putting it down over concrete. Could I put it down and just brad nail it to keep it from warping? Is warping even an issue with this stuff? I'm probably at least 2-3 months away from being able to afford the mini split I want so I don't want that holding me up on flooring. https://scontent-dft4-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/17264384_10154598221078198_2562492175813784941_n.jpg?oh=3c59eca0f806e089247ed2a476ee7aa9&oe=59337864 I wouldn't bother with laminate flooring. Definitely don't nail it if you do. I would go with vinyl plank or loose lay linoleum. I used vinyl plank in mine. What mini split are you looking at? There are some really good priced minis out there now. We use a small window AC unit that is converted to a through the wall for cooling the camper. When we are at a place with electric hookups, we use a small ceramic heater. If we camp where there is no electric, we have lots of blankets! We do have a Mr Buddy heater but only use that if we are awake. On the lowest setting it still puts out too much heat. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 5:55:15 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldn't bother with laminate flooring. Definitely don't nail it if you do. I would go with vinyl plank or loose lay linoleum. I used vinyl plank in mine. What mini split are you looking at? There are some really good priced minis out there now. We use a small window AC unit that is converted to a through the wall for cooling the camper. When we are at a place with electric hookups, we use a small ceramic heater. If we camp where there is no electric, we have lots of blankets! We do have a Mr Buddy heater but only use that if we are awake. On the lowest setting it still puts out too much heat. This is the one I would be considering. I would still need to pay someone to charge it for me which might add quite a bit more to the price. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Air-Conditioner-Inverter-Ductless/dp/B01DVW6G06/ref=pd_sbs_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DVW6G06&pd_rd_r=GHD4WD7WXR21RWE0KGRA&pd_rd_w=ecOLy&pd_rd_wg=Ko8v0&refRID=GHD4WD7WXR21RWE0KGRA&th=1&tag=vglnk-c102-20 I just looked at your thread, very nice with the window unit. I ruled one out basically because I couldn't think of a realistic way to keep it from sticking outside the trailer. I just may have to steal that idea from you except it would be on the side due to the rear ramp cable system. I am curious if longterm the unit would start to have issues being in a closed in space like that. In my scenario it would be smaller area since I would build it into storage cabinets on the side. I see you got the same question about just buying a camper lol. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 9:34:06 PM EDT
[#24]
Here's the link to the TnTTT site.
http://tnttt.com/index.php?sid=43af0ed45867291c602d0ea50895c00d Those Pioneer mini splits get great reviews but I would worry about how they will hold up to the motion of the trailer when it's being towed. |
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Posted: 3/12/2017 10:10:34 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here's the link to the TnTTT site. http://tnttt.com/index.php?sid=43af0ed45867291c602d0ea50895c00d Those Pioneer mini splits get great reviews but I would worry about how they will hold up to the motion of the trailer when it's being towed. True, after looking at your setup I am seriously considering doing something similar mainly because its cost effective. After hearing your 5k unit is more than enough I may opt for a 6k just because I have taller ceilings and I only used 1/2" insulation in mine. |
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Posted: 3/13/2017 9:53:01 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is the one I would be considering. I would still need to pay someone to charge it for me which might add quite a bit more to the price. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DVW6G06?tag=vglnk-c102-20;pd_rd_i=B01DVW6G06&pd_rd_r=GHD4WD7WXR21RWE0KGRA&pd_rd_w=ecOLy&pd_rd_wg=Ko8v0&refRID=GHD4WD7WXR21RWE0KGRA&th=1&tag=vglnk-c102-20 I just looked at your thread, very nice with the window unit. I ruled one out basically because I couldn't think of a realistic way to keep it from sticking outside the trailer. I just may have to steal that idea from you except it would be on the side due to the rear ramp cable system. I am curious if longterm the unit would start to have issues being in a closed in space like that. In my scenario it would be smaller area since I would build it into storage cabinets on the side. I see you got the same question about just buying a camper lol. |
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Posted: 3/13/2017 12:19:34 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is there an advantage to using a mini-split over a RV roof mounted AC unit? I have limited knowledge on the roof mount units. I know for most trailers bracing would be needed. As far as cost goes they are in the same ballpark it seems. I personally like mini splits due to how efficient and quiet they are. Plus if you are like me and not really lnto the idea of cutting a bunch of holes in your trailer a mini split is perfect. |
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Posted: 3/13/2017 2:18:42 PM EDT
[#28]
So this is for off the grid living or what?
ETA: survival forum. Sorry, clicked active threads or something 
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Posted: 3/13/2017 2:49:02 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Those Pioneer mini splits get great reviews but I would worry about how they will hold up to the motion of the trailer when it's being towed. if those things hold up ME shitboxes rattling in the wind while running they will work on a trailer |
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Posted: 3/13/2017 2:52:15 PM EDT
[#30]
OP, we also built one and began in 2003 with all sorts of amenities... Almost 90,000 miles on it now all over the country.
Do you know how heavy this is going to be using common house construction? Vents- we used a manual one in the right rear corner and a Fantastic fan in the left front inside the bathroom. Why in the world would you let an electrical panel dictate the use of 2x4's as furring strips? Why not use a lightweight accordion door in the wall to the bathroom. For the bathroom walls, we used 1/4" plywood set in aluminum tracks screwed to the floor and similar to the ceiling. Works great. Very light-weight. We insulated the trailer quite heavily on all surfaces, and it can get hot in not too much time. Also cold  We camped in 10F wx and with the Vented propane heater running and in modest sleeping bags got good sleep.
We used a 12v water pump feeding via dip tube from 2 6 gallon Walmart green cans [same ones have worked well for 14 years] to minimize weight. Carrying water inside prevents freezing on trips and is simple to clean and maintain...... |
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Posted: 3/13/2017 3:04:58 PM EDT
[#31]
There's a number of topics here on the toileting and electrical systems that might be helpful...
Search for stealth trailer and add the rest of the usual to the search... |
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Posted: 3/13/2017 5:44:15 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There's a number of topics here on the toileting and electrical systems that might be helpful... Search for stealth trailer and add the rest of the usual to the search... Quote HistoryQuoted:
There's a number of topics here on the toileting and electrical systems that might be helpful... Search for stealth trailer and add the rest of the usual to the search... I'm an electrician by trade so I pretty much have that covered, i've already discussed the toilet. Quoted:
OP, we also built one and began in 2003 with all sorts of amenities... Almost 90,000 miles on it now all over the country. Do you know how heavy this is going to be using common house construction? Vents- we used a manual one in the right rear corner and a Fantastic fan in the left front inside the bathroom. Why in the world would you let an electrical panel dictate the use of 2x4's as furring strips? Why not use a lightweight accordion door in the wall to the bathroom. For the bathroom walls, we used 1/4" plywood set in aluminum tracks screwed to the floor and similar to the ceiling. Works great. Very light-weight. We insulated the trailer quite heavily on all surfaces, and it can get hot in not too much time. Also cold We camped in 10F wx and with the Vented propane heater running and in modest sleeping bags got good sleep.
We used a 12v water pump feeding via dip tube from 2 6 gallon Walmart green cans [same ones have worked well for 14 years] to minimize weight. Carrying water inside prevents freezing on trips and is simple to clean and maintain...... Look, I highly doubt 1 2x4 wall is going to make this thing unable to be pulled. I wanted an actual door in here, not an RV door. THAT was the main reason for the 2x4's, |
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Posted: 3/13/2017 8:20:03 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have limited knowledge on the roof mount units. I know for most trailers bracing would be needed. As far as cost goes they are in the same ballpark it seems. I personally like mini splits due to how efficient and quiet they are. Plus if you are like me and not really lnto the idea of cutting a bunch of holes in your trailer a mini split is perfect. Our roof mt'd unit is very noisy... |
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Posted: 3/13/2017 8:28:50 PM EDT
[#34]
OST
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Posted: 3/13/2017 8:33:55 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm an electrician by trade so I pretty much have that covered, i've already discussed the toilet. Look, I highly doubt 1 2x4 wall is going to make this thing unable to be pulled. I wanted an actual door in here, not an RV door. THAT was the main reason for the 2x4's, It still looks WAY too heavy to go very far... Carrying any amt of load...
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Posted: 3/13/2017 10:16:09 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It still looks WAY too heavy to go very far... Carrying any amt of load...  .
Well it's a good thing I plan on parking it and living in it then. I'm betting i'll still be well under 5000lbs when its all said and done, I have no issues towing that kind of weight. Anyway, cord caps came in tonight. In keeping with the stealth aspect I was trying to figure out a way to plug into shore power, I kinda like it. 
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Posted: 3/13/2017 11:49:51 PM EDT
[#37]
Interesting read. Thanks for posting. I'm looking foward to seeing more of your build.
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Posted: 3/13/2017 11:51:37 PM EDT
[#38]
Ours is just about finished. I have to made a bed frame. Might post a pic.
Tagging this thread. |
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Posted: 3/14/2017 2:27:02 AM EDT
[#39]
I like it op!
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Posted: 3/14/2017 8:15:15 AM EDT
[#40]
This is pretty much what I plan on doing with the bed. Depending on whether I can make it thin enough I like the idea of a bunk on top that could also raise and lower. That might be pushing it but we will see. I've already got the thick strut from work and I will be ordering the trolleys for them but I still haven't figured out a way to easily raise the bed(s). I'm not really a fan of the big springs on the one in the video but I also don't quite understand the whole setup either.
https://youtu.be/04wZvksZD6U As for the A/C I think I have finally decided on a window unit mounted under the "couch" that will be vented through the floor. |
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Posted: 3/14/2017 3:24:43 PM EDT
[#41]
Can you paint that thing white to reflect some of the heat in the summer months?
Can you put it under a car port that is much larger and slightly taller to give you some shade? Do you have plans for a skirting around it in the winter? This will save on your heating bill as air flow will be stopped. Can you store you weapons and other items in a self storage? A 5'x10' should not cost too much. You have your own property with utilities, drop a 20' insulated dry van (cargo container) on there for storage/shop. |
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Posted: 3/14/2017 3:42:59 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can you paint that thing white to reflect some of the heat in the summer months? Can you put it under a car port that is much larger and slightly taller to give you some shade? Do you have plans for a skirting around it in the winter? This will save on your heating bill as air flow will be stopped. Can you store you weapons and other items in a self storage? A 5'x10' should not cost too much. You have your own property with utilities, drop a 20' insulated dry van (cargo container) on there for storage/shop. My hope right now is that the A/C will be enough to counter the fact that its black. That did occur to me and if it becomes a problem ill look into it. Thankfully at least the roof isnt black. I have also thought about a canopy as well. If I end up parking it at my shop we will build one off the shop to fit both this and the bus under. I'm not too concerned with winter, they are usually pretty mild here in Tx. Heating will be much easier than cooling here. I'm stil working on the guns thing. Right now i keep them all in a gang box. The ammo would be more of an issue because of the weight. In reality Ill more than likely be able to build in some storage for majority and the rest can probably be stored at a family members. |
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Posted: 3/14/2017 3:48:53 PM EDT
[#43]
I had settled on a 6k window unit, seeing as how this thing is black im inclined to step it up to maybe an 8k. I have heard that if you go to big you could run into moisture problems though. In the end i may just start out at the 6k and see how it does.
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Posted: 3/19/2017 9:30:17 AM EDT
[#44]
If parking it you have some options. If you want to move it around, you still have some options.
I always liked people who built a "porch" for their camper. Pull the camper in and because of the side door that is how it was set up. You came out of the camper onto your porch or deck. Put a roof on it and one fella kept a full size fridge on the porch for the beer fridge. To some extent I would prefer a proper "awning" like a camper has for on the sides of the trailer but especially cause of the ramp doors a lot of folks use those 10x10 pop up canopies and stuff. Guess you could probably make an awning. Waterproof storage is easy. Security is the hard part. Some 55 gallon drums where the entire top pops off is nice and water proof when put together right. You do construction so you should know about job boxes as well. To some extent you might just want to find a junker cargo van and park it for storage. Can add padlocks to the doors and if it has no windows in the cargo area it is easy to secure. Being on rims it drags easy. Later on you can scrap it or something if you want to do so. I would consider painting the roof white at the very least. Awnings on the sides will keep the sun off the sides. Back door is what it is, I dislike how it seems some rot out and need rebuilt when I research cargo trailers and stuff. Lots of places to read on this stuff, playing on google will turn up all sorts of odds and ends. And to some extent if parking it I would get water in 55 gallon drums and keep em high to gravity feed if you need to fill your tank. |
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Posted: 3/19/2017 2:11:31 PM EDT
[#45]
Don't use less than 8k. Even it will be marginal on a super hot day. If you can cover it, the 8k should work.
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Posted: 3/19/2017 4:03:22 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Our roof mt'd unit is very noisy... Properly installed, a mini split unit is going to be MUCH quieter. |
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Posted: 3/20/2017 9:05:36 AM EDT
[#47]
Black trailers suck to cool, a buddy of mine has a 24 ft cargo trailer that he put a 15,000 btu AC on the roof and was bitching because he couldn't get it below 95 degrees on a 100 degree day. We took an infrared thermometer to the roof bows and they read 140 degrees and there are 12 of them. Like an oven. Coat your roof with Koolseal or some such to reflect the sun. An awning might help. I will never own a black trailer.
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Posted: 3/20/2017 9:36:34 AM EDT
[#48]
If you're planning on parking it to live inside, and not take it on the road, wouldn't it be easier and better (warmer, cooler, and quieter) to just pick up a set of big shed plans and finish out inside?
You could cobble together a 12x14 shed for maybe $3K or less, then you'll have 2x4 walls you can insulate, a floor you can insulate, a real roof with attic space you can insulate.... I know you've already started on the cargo trailer but just wondering why you chose that path. |
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Posted: 3/20/2017 3:58:19 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If parking it you have some options. If you want to move it around, you still have some options. I always liked people who built a "porch" for their camper. Pull the camper in and because of the side door that is how it was set up. You came out of the camper onto your porch or deck. Put a roof on it and one fella kept a full size fridge on the porch for the beer fridge. To some extent I would prefer a proper "awning" like a camper has for on the sides of the trailer but especially cause of the ramp doors a lot of folks use those 10x10 pop up canopies and stuff. Guess you could probably make an awning. Waterproof storage is easy. Security is the hard part. Some 55 gallon drums where the entire top pops off is nice and water proof when put together right. You do construction so you should know about job boxes as well. To some extent you might just want to find a junker cargo van and park it for storage. Can add padlocks to the doors and if it has no windows in the cargo area it is easy to secure. Being on rims it drags easy. Later on you can scrap it or something if you want to do so. I would consider painting the roof white at the very least. Awnings on the sides will keep the sun off the sides. Back door is what it is, I dislike how it seems some rot out and need rebuilt when I research cargo trailers and stuff. Lots of places to read on this stuff, playing on google will turn up all sorts of odds and ends. And to some extent if parking it I would get water in 55 gallon drums and keep em high to gravity feed if you need to fill your tank. Quote HistoryQuoted:
If parking it you have some options. If you want to move it around, you still have some options. I always liked people who built a "porch" for their camper. Pull the camper in and because of the side door that is how it was set up. You came out of the camper onto your porch or deck. Put a roof on it and one fella kept a full size fridge on the porch for the beer fridge. To some extent I would prefer a proper "awning" like a camper has for on the sides of the trailer but especially cause of the ramp doors a lot of folks use those 10x10 pop up canopies and stuff. Guess you could probably make an awning. Waterproof storage is easy. Security is the hard part. Some 55 gallon drums where the entire top pops off is nice and water proof when put together right. You do construction so you should know about job boxes as well. To some extent you might just want to find a junker cargo van and park it for storage. Can add padlocks to the doors and if it has no windows in the cargo area it is easy to secure. Being on rims it drags easy. Later on you can scrap it or something if you want to do so. I would consider painting the roof white at the very least. Awnings on the sides will keep the sun off the sides. Back door is what it is, I dislike how it seems some rot out and need rebuilt when I research cargo trailers and stuff. Lots of places to read on this stuff, playing on google will turn up all sorts of odds and ends. And to some extent if parking it I would get water in 55 gallon drums and keep em high to gravity feed if you need to fill your tank. If I park this thing out on my buddies property security won't really be an issue. There is a good chance I will just rent a storage unit. I do have quite a few clear drums left over from my aquaponic days, I hadn't thought about using them for water. I'm going to put a tank under the "couch" but I may just use that for out of town work. I hear ya'll on the white paint. I'll definitely look into it, I've also considered one of the fabric car ports. Quoted:
Black trailers suck to cool, a buddy of mine has a 24 ft cargo trailer that he put a 15,000 btu AC on the roof and was bitching because he couldn't get it below 95 degrees on a 100 degree day. We took an infrared thermometer to the roof bows and they read 140 degrees and there are 12 of them. Like an oven. Coat your roof with Koolseal or some such to reflect the sun. An awning might help. I will never own a black trailer. Quoted:
If you're planning on parking it to live inside, and not take it on the road, wouldn't it be easier and better (warmer, cooler, and quieter) to just pick up a set of big shed plans and finish out inside? You could cobble together a 12x14 shed for maybe $3K or less, then you'll have 2x4 walls you can insulate, a floor you can insulate, a real roof with attic space you can insulate.... I know you've already started on the cargo trailer but just wondering why you chose that path. |
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Posted: 3/20/2017 10:14:21 PM EDT
[#50]
I had some leftover undercabinet LEDs I put in, the rest of the trailer will be LED tape around the inside perimeter.
The sink came in but I'm still undecided if I will continue with this counter top or not. I have a good chunk of a lane from a bowling alley, the only downside is it's pretty darn heavy and its like 3in thick. I will pull this pallet wood back out and sand it to see how good I can make it look. I also started working on the bed frame and the "couch". I was going to use unistrut so I could raise the bed up as needed but heard some downsides about using the trolleys. I sort of mocked this up and I'm thinking it will work for what I need to it to do. Eventually I will add some sort of pulley system. 
Anyway, this trailer came with a vent on either end. They aren't very big and I'm not too sure if this will be a benefit when I add the A/C or not. 1 of them ended up in the shower which I would be inclined to keep but not sure and now would be the time to make that decision. |
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