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Posted: 11/21/2014 1:10:54 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
So far costs 1991 blazer - 300 Tire - 20 Mounting tire onto rim - 20 Oil filter - 6 Oil - 20 Extras that were not needed but I did anyways just because Bondo I used - $10 Spray paint primer - $14 Sand paper $4 Rubber undercoating - $35 So far I'm in it at $429. Runs and drives. Needs doors (craigslist time) and a new tire on the spare (both spare and passenger front tire were flat) and on the bright side, 4wd works Good work! |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 1:58:24 AM EDT
[#2]
You let them sell you on the undercoating, huh?
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Posted: 11/21/2014 8:23:39 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You let them sell you on the undercoating, huh? 
yeah and here I thought we were some kind of twelf pace group to help each other not get taken by the sales zombys |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 8:56:15 AM EDT
[#4]
I was going to say why doors but I guess they are sort of a requirement in WI. Local u-pick yard probably has a '91 but those are drifting toward the "classics" side now so could be equal to all the other money you invested.
Ohh, and pics or it didn't happen. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 9:55:38 AM EDT
[#5]
The good news is that any 1973 through 1987 pickup door should work, or the front doors from any 1973 to 1991ish Suburban...oh and the Blazer from 1976 to 1991ish
I hereby dub the Op's Blazer Spot because he has already admitted to bondo and undercoat plus the fact that I expect the doors to be 1978 green while the truck is some other color. 
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Posted: 11/21/2014 10:51:18 AM EDT
[#6]
Better check all the hoses and belts.
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Posted: 11/21/2014 11:43:29 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
So far costs 1991 blazer - 300 Tire - 20 Mounting tire onto rim - 20 Oil filter - 6 Oil - 20 Extras that were not needed but I did anyways just because Bondo I used - $10 Spray paint primer - $14 Sand paper $4 Rubber undercoating - $35 So far I'm in it at $429. Runs and drives. Needs doors (craigslist time) and a new tire on the spare (both spare and passenger front tire were flat) and on the bright side, 4wd works Pics, Sir, PICS! This thread has potential. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 6:12:30 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Pics, Sir, PICS! This thread has potential. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So far costs 1991 blazer - 300 Tire - 20 Mounting tire onto rim - 20 Oil filter - 6 Oil - 20 Extras that were not needed but I did anyways just because Bondo I used - $10 Spray paint primer - $14 Sand paper $4 Rubber undercoating - $35 So far I'm in it at $429. Runs and drives. Needs doors (craigslist time) and a new tire on the spare (both spare and passenger front tire were flat) and on the bright side, 4wd works Pics, Sir, PICS! This thread has potential. A teaser 
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Posted: 11/21/2014 6:13:08 PM EDT
[#9]
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Posted: 11/21/2014 7:15:12 PM EDT
[#10]
A VERY common failure on those models are those hoses that go to the oil filter and oil cooler. I've seen far too many of those simply "blow apart" resulting in a very sudden loss of both oil pressure, and massive amounts of oil, at the "crimp" in the lines where the rubber hose meets the aluminum hard line or fitting.
Personally,I would put replacing them very high on my "to do" list if I owned it. Then you're GTG! |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 9:01:31 PM EDT
[#11]
In 2004 I bought a 1984 K5 for $400. It had been sitting a while but had decent tires. Needed a battery and a back window.
I bought it, changed the fluids in the engine, trans and ran some sea foam through it. Got some back glass in it and drove it for a few months. It was gear incredibly high, and the 350s never had much grunt stock. I took it out my favorite logging area to shoot one morning and the damn thing quit on me at the top of the hill. I got out to figure out what was wrong. Someone had added an aftermarket tranny cooler at some point, and the old rubber lines and rotted out from sitting to long and the extra pressure from going up the hill caused them to burst. I patched it back up with duct tape, and luckily I had a gallon of ATF with me. I was able to get it operating again but reverse was gone. 700R4s are awful expensive to rebuild! I wish I would have just put a turbo 350 in it at that point. I went out And bought a new Honda civic and let the blazer rot beside my house for 6 months before I scraped up the money to rebuild it. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 10:19:53 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A VERY common failure on those models are those hoses that go to the oil filter and oil cooler. I've seen far too many of those simply "blow apart" resulting in a very sudden loss of both oil pressure, and massive amounts of oil, at the "crimp" in the lines where the rubber hose meets the aluminum hard line or fitting. Personally,I would put replacing them very high on my "to do" list if I owned it. Then you're GTG! Any other problems with the 4.3? |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 10:21:18 PM EDT
[#13]
Also. It has been sitting for 9 or 10 months before I drove it home oct 31st.
What should I all check? |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 10:37:35 PM EDT
[#14]
Rubber components, hoses, belts, etc.
Fluids. Electrical terminals, connectors, etc, corrosion or for being unprotected. Starter gear and pinion. Jack and test for play in the rear end differential and U-joints. Listen to differential at ~ 50 mph, let off gas and accelerate, listen for noises, whine, etc. Check ball joints. Grease everything as spec'd. Brakes, lights, look for tampering in the electrical distribution box, spare fuses... SG of battery, charging voltage correct. Check front wheel bearings. Check the 4WD system for any issues including U-joints or whatever they used on that vehicle.. Replace PCV valve, check fuel filter, air filter. Lub door, etc, hinges and any moving parts. Wiper blades. Replace blinker fluid. Check shocks for leakage or freedom. Check their bushings and suspension bushings. |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 10:41:26 PM EDT
[#15]
Ok I'll bite. That's the only big negative I can cite for you. The 4.3 is a great engine. Proven design, as it's basically a 350 with 2 cyls "cut off". I don't have to mention the track record of the venerable Small Block Chevy.
At that age I'd look into replacing any and all rubber items. Vacuum hoses(cheaply done) Brake hoses...I've seen more than one case of either: Spongy Brake Pedal, due to rubber hoses that "Blow up like a "Balloon" when you step on the pedal, or Sticking brakes, due to the "bracket" that some brake hoses have on them for mounting purposes, usually located appx 1/2 way out on the hose, rusting internally and effectively compressing the outside of the brake hose, restricting the flow ,which can cause the pressure to the calipers, to not be released quickly, causing brake dragging and/or overheating. To summarize...replace the stuff that degrades with exposure to time/heat/pressure/vacuum. And...Good luck to you! You bought it "right" and got, in my opinion, a great vehicle! |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 10:47:51 PM EDT
[#16]
Oh...1 more thing.....old S10's can be great donors of parts to keep you on the road. Much of it interchanges. However...Axles and Rims do not. S10 and Blazer of that era do not share a common track width. Axles are different lengths, (shorter on the S10 longer on the Blazer) and the rims have a completely different "offset",although the bolt pattern is the same. GLTY!
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Posted: 11/21/2014 11:00:46 PM EDT
[#17]
OK...1 MORE thing...LOL...You'll be happy with that Ignition system.Dependable as heck. The "Small HEI" as many call it. Bite the bullet and buy a GENIUNE GM DELCO Ignition module for it. Yeah it'll set you back appx $50 but it's WORTH IT! Symptoms of module failure are "breaking up" at high RPMS.
I've been bitten in the A$$ a few too many times by aftermarket modules failing within a (relatively) short period of time, on that system. While you are in there, be sure to coat the bottom of the module with Dielectric grease, AND make darn sure that the little circular screen in the bottom of the distributor is open and free to flow air. It is there to cool the module. Also (although it is RARE) those distributors have been known to have their magnets come loose and "go flying" at high RPMs, causing catastrophic failure to the pickup coil and (sometimes) nearly everything else inside the Dist cap. My advice....get a whole spare distributor from a Junk Yard or a donor vehicle, and keep it under your seat. "Better to have it and not need it,than to need it and not have it" Ya Know! |
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Posted: 11/21/2014 11:57:06 PM EDT
[#18]
Is that frost on the A-C components?
Then you are likely low on R12. Do you have a sight glass on the LP side of the system, then it's easy to replace. |
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Posted: 11/25/2014 12:31:30 AM EDT
[#19]
Took it out in the snow tonight. Got stuck in 2wd but when Input her in 4, no more issues
Also, is a 350 swap worth it? I mean, she runs fine with the v6 but people on Facebook were saying the V8 is better for a survival vehicle because parts are more common |
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Posted: 11/25/2014 1:58:11 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Took it out in the snow tonight. Got stuck in 2wd but when Input her in 4, no more issues Also, is a 350 swap worth it? I mean, she runs fine with the v6 but people on Facebook were saying the V8 is better for a survival vehicle because parts are more common I would say yes to the 350 swap , more power is a plus , But almost everything that fits a 350 fits a 4.3 a 4.3 is a 5.7 with 2 cylinders missing and uses a lot of the same parts |
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Posted: 11/25/2014 1:58:47 AM EDT
[#21]
Double tap
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Posted: 11/25/2014 2:51:34 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A VERY common failure on those models are those hoses that go to the oil filter and oil cooler. I've seen far too many of those simply "blow apart" resulting in a very sudden loss of both oil pressure, and massive amounts of oil, at the "crimp" in the lines where the rubber hose meets the aluminum hard line or fitting. Personally,I would put replacing them very high on my "to do" list if I owned it. Then you're GTG! This start replacing those hoses, my moms 94 S10 Blazer had one blow as she was backing out of the garage lucky she saw the huge oil trail and turned it off. One of your friend was driving one, and blew when they were on the interstate the motor blew before they could get off the side of the road. Those hoses go and you instantly have no oil. |
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