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Wow, that sounds fantastic, I'd LOVE to change the blue light for a UV LED. Could you please explain a bit more how you did that? Any forum or website where I could find info on how to do it or do you know of anyone that can get that done?
Thanks,
FerFAL
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I use the full-sized version (same head, I think, though.)
I swapped out the blue LED for a UV one, since I've found UV flashlights handy at times,
so it's switchable from white, red, IR or UV.
They're great lights. As you said, not the brightest, but they've got a nice runtime as a result.
Wow, that sounds fantastic, I'd LOVE to change the blue light for a UV LED. Could you please explain a bit more how you did that? Any forum or website where I could find info on how to do it or do you know of anyone that can get that done?
Thanks,
FerFAL
It's not terribly difficult to do, but you'll need some skill with soldering (or more specifically, de-soldering.)
The quick steps for the AA Streamlight are as follows. The compact version might be a little different but I'm positive the board is the
same since it's the exact same flashlight head.
Remove the four screws in the corners of the lens bezel.
Remove the bezel and lens (which is just a thin piece of polycarbonate as far as I can tell.) There's a gasket as well, don't lose it.
Remove the reflector for the white LED. It's loose so it just comes out.
Lift the light selector knob as high as it will go. This will let the knob sensors clear the knob, and the entire flashlight PCB can be removed from the housing.
At this point you'll have the PCB dangling from wires. The wires are bit stiff, so if you flex them too much you might break them and have to re-solder the
connection. I got annoyed by this enough that I replaced the wire with more flexible stuff.
You want a short-wavelength 5mm UV LED, either 395nm or 365nm.
Something like this.
You will need to be aware of the anode and cathode, but rather than getting complicated what I suggest is to clip the leads even at this point and turn the light
on and touch the LED to the back of blue LED's leads until it lights, and make a note of which lead goes where with a spot of sharpie marker on the leads..
Remember LEDs only work one way.
OK, here's the hardest part of the whole job. You need to de-solder the blue LED. I used a fine-tip soldering iron and a solder-sucker (it's a pen-like spring loaded
vacuum) to get rid of most of the solder on the LED's leads. Once that's done, I used needlenose pliers or a hemostat to pull on the LED's lead while heating
the wire. It'll eventually pull out. Do both leads, and then make sure the holes are clear for the new LED insertion.
Once the holes are clear, take the UV LED that you marked, and insert it, re-solder leads, and then clip leads.
The rest is just reassembling everything.
This is just a single LED, and the Streamlight is not a bright light to begin with, so have realistic expecations about how much UV light you get.
In the dark, it will be more than enough to see the UV colored bands in a dollar bill, or see where the cat peed with the light a couple feet
away. It will easily charge glow-in-the-dark items a few feet away. You won't be able to find scorpions at 10 feet.
As far as getting this done, you need some decent soldering tools and fine motor skills. It's far from rocket science. Any electronics hobbyist
could do this. I'd suggest maybe looking to see if there's a nearby maker-space (they are geek hangouts with tools) that could help,
or maybe a decently equipped ham or electronics enthusiast.