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Posted: 11/13/2013 3:04:21 PM EDT
[#1]
I really believe in stihl full chisel (the yellow link) oilomatics. They're a little more spendy, but the cut like beasts and wear reasonably well.
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Posted: 11/13/2013 3:08:11 PM EDT
[#2]
I have a husky and use husky chains from Lowes.
I can find them online a little cheaper, but its not worth the effort to me. |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 3:09:28 PM EDT
[#3]
Oregon chain. They have levels from idiot homeowner up to professional (read: dangerous as hell) chains that GET SHIT DONE!
I buy from Amazon, because I have Prime shipping
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Posted: 11/13/2013 3:33:14 PM EDT
[#4]
You want professional user reduced kickback chain. Buy one loop from a saw shop and make sure it looks like that in the future.
I'd have no problem with a local hardware store, as long as it's that grade and Oregon, Stihl, or similar quality (I doubt there is a better deal than Oregon.) I buy 5-6 chains at a time from my saw shop, and they come in a compact paper box that makes a nice way to keep a spare chain in the truck ANSI safety chain intended for non professional users is aweful- the key is the links between the cutters have a large raised fin that drags in the cut. Unless you saw uses a RC airplane engine, you will be disappointed. Non reduced kickback chain, which uses peg like depth guages (the fin in front of and on the same link as the cutter) is way too dangerious for general use, and most large logging companies that actually purchase workmans comp won't use it on hand saws. It sees some use on bow blade saws for pulpwooders, and is margonally safe for that use as long as it is never used for anythign but bucking. I can also see it's use in a chain saw mill where the cuts are rips, and the cutter can be more agressive. The chain you want has a depth guage thats longer then it is high, and limits the bite of the chain, but only to what the average power unit can handle. Also, avoid carbide or fire rescue chain. |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 3:46:52 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Also, avoid carbide or fire rescue chain. Why is this for a carbide chain?...are they just to expensive and too much trouble to sharpen? |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 4:17:35 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Oregon chain. They have levels from idiot homeowner up to professional (read: dangerous as hell) chains that GET SHIT DONE! I buy from Amazon, because I have Prime shipping Oregon chain is the only way to go.
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Posted: 11/13/2013 4:33:21 PM EDT
[#7]
Carbide chains are made for sawing through roofs, building materials, hitting nails in walls, wires, etc. Not a good performing cutter for log cutting. The angles are different and requires diamond wheels to sharpen. Different tools, different jobs.
Chisel chains cut fast and clean. The geometry of this cutter has a point that is less tolerant of dirt and debris. If the wood is dirty or there is a risk of cutting into the dirt, like around a stump, use a semi chisel style. It is only the chrome plating on the top of the cutter that is the hard edge. It is easily chipped. As soon as you see dust instead of chips, or have to apply pressure to cut, it is time to sharpen. If the cut starts to curve, you are done. Stop and swap chains or sharpen. Most likely you have dulled the cutters on one side of the chain. Depth gauges have to be set for the power of the saw, bar length, and cutter style. For the most part, a gap of about .020 will perform well. Bob |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 4:56:55 PM EDT
[#8]
These guys have good prices on everything chain saw related. Sign up for their mailing list and they send out some pretty good specials and coupons regularly.
http://www.baileysonline.com/ |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 5:13:00 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Carbide chains are made for sawing through roofs, building materials, hitting nails in walls, wires, etc. Not a good performing cutter for log cutting. The angles are different and requires diamond wheels to sharpen. Different tools, different jobs. Chisel chains cut fast and clean. The geometry of this cutter has a point that is less tolerant of dirt and debris. If the wood is dirty or there is a risk of cutting into the dirt, like around a stump, use a semi chisel style. It is only the chrome plating on the top of the cutter that is the hard edge. It is easily chipped. As soon as you see dust instead of chips, or have to apply pressure to cut, it is time to sharpen. If the cut starts to curve, you are done. Stop and swap chains or sharpen. Most likely you have dulled the cutters on one side of the chain. Depth gauges have to be set for the power of the saw, bar length, and cutter style. For the most part, a gap of about .020 will perform well. Bob +1... You must be a logger or have been one at some point. I also dislike the safety or skip chains... Learning to sharpen with just a round file will speed up most any wood processing project. The key is an evenly sharp chain that is kept out of the dirt. I prefer a round or full chisel... Though my main firewood saw that I use for small stuff has a 3/8 low pro chain on it... Its ok and is pretty similar to full chisel just a bit smaller. If I am going to fell or buck anything large I grab my older husky pro saw. 
I ussually get my chains from the local hardware store... Tell them what i need, they go make it, and sell it to me for a few dollars cheaper then the bubble pack ones on the racks. I belive what they sell is oregon. At some point I might put together a large order from http://www.baileysonline.com/ 
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Posted: 11/13/2013 5:14:37 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
These guys have good prices on everything chain saw related. Sign up for their mailing list and they send out some pretty good specials and coupons regularly. http://www.baileysonline.com/ X2 |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 5:26:05 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I really believe in stihl full chisel (the yellow link) oilomatics. They're a little more spendy, but the cut like beasts and wear reasonably well. This is what I've been using for a couple of years with pretty good results. |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 5:33:37 PM EDT
[#12]
Don't forget the spare parts. Buy a common saw and you can usually find spare parts on Ebay.
We run two Stihl 290's and their is the Mini Farm boss version that the wife got for a anniversary present last year :) It's more compact and smaller for her. Go through the service manual and make a list of a lot of parts you could change out yourself, then check ebay and order them there. We have about 2X all the major parts and earlier this year we bought another 290 and a hard case. That got oiled and put back as a backup to the backups. Cutting wood and heating your home and possibly cooking with wood is so important, you should have a really good plan for doing it. Lowdown3 |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 5:46:08 PM EDT
[#13]
I buy 10 chains every 4 or so years from a seller on ebay that i've dealt with in the past... they own a store someplace, and are affordable. I forget the name, and always have to dig receipts to find who it is
 I get the Husky / Oregon chain, and it works good for the price. The Stihl chain is 2x as much, and I can't see that being worth it. 346xpg & 372xp are my saws. The 346 gets used a lot more... it's light weight and rips but for the big Oak the larger saw is worth it for sure. I use chisel chain reduced kick back I believe. As soon as my "safety" chain got used up it got tossed... nothing like wasting gas. I use the local saw shop for some chains, oil, and other misc parts... they are a husky dealer so it works out well :) |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 6:19:06 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I buy 10 chains every 4 or so years from a seller on ebay that i've dealt with in the past... they own a store someplace, and are affordable. I forget the name, and always have to dig receipts to find who it is
I get the Husky / Oregon chain, and it works good for the price. The Stihl chain is 2x as much, and I can't see that being worth it. 346xpg & 372xp are my saws. The 346 gets used a lot more... it's light weight and rips but for the big Oak the larger saw is worth it for sure. I use chisel chain reduced kick back I believe. As soon as my "safety" chain got used up it got tossed... nothing like wasting gas. I use the local saw shop for some chains, oil, and other misc parts... they are a husky dealer so it works out well :) Best two saws ever built. Just sayin... I use Stihl RSC yellow dot chain or Oregon LGX on my 372XP. Both are full chisel, high performance chains. People tell me how the Stihl RSC is superior and that the Oregon LGX chain is soft and dulls quickly. I cut approx 15 full cords per year (all NE hardwoods) and that has not been my experience. The Oregon LGX has done just as well as RSC for me and it's cheaper ($14 vs. $20 per 20"). I have about 6 of each. BTW, the OEM Husqvarna chain is generally just re-branded Oregon LGX or LPX. Safety chains sold at Lowes for consumer grade saws sucks really bad. |
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Posted: 11/13/2013 6:38:48 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Best two saws ever built. Just sayin... I use Stihl RSC yellow dot chain or Oregon LGX on my 372XP. Both are full chisel, high performance chains. People tell me how the Stihl RSC is superior and that the Oregon LGX chain is soft and dulls quickly. I cut approx 15 full cords per year (all NE hardwoods) and that has not been my experience. The Oregon LGX has done just as well as RSC for me and it's cheaper ($14 vs. $20 per 20"). I have about 6 of each. BTW, the OEM Husqvarna chain is generally just re-branded Oregon LGX or LPX. Safety chains sold at Lowes for consumer grade saws sucks really bad. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I buy 10 chains every 4 or so years from a seller on ebay that i've dealt with in the past... they own a store someplace, and are affordable. I forget the name, and always have to dig receipts to find who it is I get the Husky / Oregon chain, and it works good for the price. The Stihl chain is 2x as much, and I can't see that being worth it. 346xpg & 372xp are my saws. The 346 gets used a lot more... it's light weight and rips but for the big Oak the larger saw is worth it for sure. I use chisel chain reduced kick back I believe. As soon as my "safety" chain got used up it got tossed... nothing like wasting gas. I use the local saw shop for some chains, oil, and other misc parts... they are a husky dealer so it works out well :) Best two saws ever built. Just sayin... I use Stihl RSC yellow dot chain or Oregon LGX on my 372XP. Both are full chisel, high performance chains. People tell me how the Stihl RSC is superior and that the Oregon LGX chain is soft and dulls quickly. I cut approx 15 full cords per year (all NE hardwoods) and that has not been my experience. The Oregon LGX has done just as well as RSC for me and it's cheaper ($14 vs. $20 per 20"). I have about 6 of each. BTW, the OEM Husqvarna chain is generally just re-branded Oregon LGX or LPX. Safety chains sold at Lowes for consumer grade saws sucks really bad. I agree! Love these saws. I'm running a 24" if I recall on my 372, and might step up a bit bigger for some large oaks I need to drop on my property. Good to know about the chains lasting as long as the more $$ Stihl. Yeah, I get Oregon if it's cheaper or Husky depending what they have in stock, my experience has been it's identical labeled too. For anyone wondering even in winter with snow on the ground I haven't found a need to use the "heated" handles... they get REALLY hot.. too hot for me, and not needed when working in my opinion. Next up for me is a small climbing saw :) |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 4:48:40 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
These guys have good prices on everything chain saw related. Sign up for their mailing list and they send out some pretty good specials and coupons regularly. http://www.baileysonline.com/ Absolutely this ^^^ Baileys is THE place for online purchase of saw accessories and supplies... get on their mailing list and wait for a good deal on what you want. When I upgraded bar & chains after I modded my MS170 into the little terror that it is today I went to baileys. They had a deal going where you buy a chain and get a 6-pack of 2-cycle oil free. The Woodland Pro chain they sell is THE BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK CHAIN ANYWHERE. That is not just my opinion, that statement can be reaffirmed by the many professionals on arboristsite that are using it and swear by it. Stihl chain may last just a bit longer between sharpenings but you pay dearly for it. And if you hit something and wreck your chain you've wrecked a chain that is a lot more expensive. I will gladly take a very slight trade-off in quality for a price that is drastically reduced. |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 5:37:07 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Absolutely this ^^^ Baileys is THE place for online purchase of saw accessories and supplies... get on their mailing list and wait for a good deal on what you want. When I upgraded bar & chains after I modded my MS170 into the little terror that it is today I went to baileys. They had a deal going where you buy a chain and get a 6-pack of 2-cycle oil free. The Woodland Pro chain they sell is THE BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK CHAIN ANYWHERE. That is not just my opinion, that statement can be reaffirmed by the many professionals on arboristsite that are using it and swear by it. Stihl chain may last just a bit longer between sharpenings but you pay dearly for it. And if you hit something and wreck your chain you've wrecked a chain that is a lot more expensive. I will gladly take a very slight trade-off in quality for a price that is drastically reduced. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
These guys have good prices on everything chain saw related. Sign up for their mailing list and they send out some pretty good specials and coupons regularly. http://www.baileysonline.com/ Absolutely this ^^^ Baileys is THE place for online purchase of saw accessories and supplies... get on their mailing list and wait for a good deal on what you want. When I upgraded bar & chains after I modded my MS170 into the little terror that it is today I went to baileys. They had a deal going where you buy a chain and get a 6-pack of 2-cycle oil free. The Woodland Pro chain they sell is THE BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK CHAIN ANYWHERE. That is not just my opinion, that statement can be reaffirmed by the many professionals on arboristsite that are using it and swear by it. Stihl chain may last just a bit longer between sharpenings but you pay dearly for it. And if you hit something and wreck your chain you've wrecked a chain that is a lot more expensive. I will gladly take a very slight trade-off in quality for a price that is drastically reduced. +1 I have found Bailey's Woodsman Pro chains to be on par with the Oregon and Husqvarna loops. The Stihl chains are probably the nicest but they are pricey. I sharpen my own chains so frequency of needing to be sharpened is not an issue for me. Keep them out of the dirt and chains will stay sharp a long time. I always carry spare loops so that when a chain becomes dull I throw a sharp one on and sharpen the dulled one when I get home. |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 6:22:54 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I buy from Amazon, because I have Prime shipping
Oregon chain is the only way to go. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Oregon chain. They have levels from idiot homeowner up to professional (read: dangerous as hell) chains that GET SHIT DONE!
Oregon chain is the only way to go. +1 |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 6:56:44 AM EDT
[#19]
FWIW I buy almost EVERYTHING I can from amazon.
Chains I get cheaper elsewhere. I'd investigate or negotiate with saw shops... you can do better than amazon last I checked. |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 7:08:38 AM EDT
[#20]
Good info so far in this thread. I will second Baileys for chain as they usually have specials. I would also try ebay as I have found some good deals on chains there as well.
For Dirty wood you will want to use semi-chisel chain as it holds an edge longer. For clean wood I use Stihl RSC Chain and Oregon Full Chisel on both my Stihl and Husqvarna saws. I grind or hand file my own chains so I know how to get them sharp. Learning to hand file is an art that most people don't know how to do properly. Once you learn how to properly file and take down the rakers on a chain, you will not believe the difference it makes. As far as the best saws ever made comment: I have had a lot of chainsaws and still do. My favorite by far for firewood is now the Husqvarna 346XP. I was so pleased with the one that I just bought that I had to order another as they are getting real hard to find. So now I have one that has been used twice and another still sitting in the box  . For bigger wood I prefer my Stihl 044 over my Husqvarna 55 Rancher but 70 cc's over 55cc's makes a big difference. For limbing and actual tree removal/ canopy work I like the Stihl MS200T (I own two of these as well) over just about anything else that I have or have tried.
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Posted: 11/14/2013 7:29:33 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I agree! Love these saws. I'm running a 24" if I recall on my 372, and might step up a bit bigger for some large oaks I need to drop on my property. Good to know about the chains lasting as long as the more $$ Stihl. Yeah, I get Oregon if it's cheaper or Husky depending what they have in stock, my experience has been it's identical labeled too. For anyone wondering even in winter with snow on the ground I haven't found a need to use the "heated" handles... they get REALLY hot.. too hot for me, and not needed when working in my opinion. Next up for me is a small climbing saw :) Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I buy 10 chains every 4 or so years from a seller on ebay that i've dealt with in the past... they own a store someplace, and are affordable. I forget the name, and always have to dig receipts to find who it is
I get the Husky / Oregon chain, and it works good for the price. The Stihl chain is 2x as much, and I can't see that being worth it. 346xpg & 372xp are my saws. The 346 gets used a lot more... it's light weight and rips but for the big Oak the larger saw is worth it for sure. I use chisel chain reduced kick back I believe. As soon as my "safety" chain got used up it got tossed... nothing like wasting gas. I use the local saw shop for some chains, oil, and other misc parts... they are a husky dealer so it works out well :) Best two saws ever built. Just sayin... I use Stihl RSC yellow dot chain or Oregon LGX on my 372XP. Both are full chisel, high performance chains. People tell me how the Stihl RSC is superior and that the Oregon LGX chain is soft and dulls quickly. I cut approx 15 full cords per year (all NE hardwoods) and that has not been my experience. The Oregon LGX has done just as well as RSC for me and it's cheaper ($14 vs. $20 per 20"). I have about 6 of each. BTW, the OEM Husqvarna chain is generally just re-branded Oregon LGX or LPX. Safety chains sold at Lowes for consumer grade saws sucks really bad. I agree! Love these saws. I'm running a 24" if I recall on my 372, and might step up a bit bigger for some large oaks I need to drop on my property. Good to know about the chains lasting as long as the more $$ Stihl. Yeah, I get Oregon if it's cheaper or Husky depending what they have in stock, my experience has been it's identical labeled too. For anyone wondering even in winter with snow on the ground I haven't found a need to use the "heated" handles... they get REALLY hot.. too hot for me, and not needed when working in my opinion. Next up for me is a small climbing saw :) 372xp... ya don't say?
Mines getting old... I just tuned it up two years ago, new base gasket, carb kit, air filter, spark plug, gas lines, etc... Still running strong but I try to save it for the bigger stuff... I use my little 445 for average to smaller sized firewood, especially when I am alone in the woods. 
Have been giving the wife a few lessons with the 235... 
ETA/ little bastard still has a skip chain on it when I took that photo... Worthless waste of time they are... 
Couldn't resist snapping a pic few pics of the wife using a chainsaw! She actually wanted to learn: Good chaps, some gloves, eyes and ears are a must, helmet to if your felling... She had the ears off so I could help/coach her. 
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Posted: 11/14/2013 7:37:28 AM EDT
[#22]
Anyone that has a 346xp try the newer 550xp ? Lighter, and same power but I wonder if it "feels" the same....
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Posted: 11/14/2013 8:49:36 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone that has a 346xp try the newer 550xp ? Lighter, and same power but I wonder if it "feels" the same.... I have not tried one yet but I know guys that run them and like them. I am very "Old School" and like an adjustable carb. |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 9:17:31 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Hi all, where do you guys buy your chains, and which brand do you use? I need a few chains, and was just wondering if there would be a better place online then ACE or something like that. thanks I've bought a few chains off of Amazon. They have several types of Oregon chains at good prices. |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 1:09:59 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You want professional user reduced kickback chain. Which Stihl brand chain would that be? Say for a MS 261 20" .325" I think mine is a RM3 chain right now. |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 3:12:10 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Which Stihl brand chain would that be? Say for a MS 261 20" .325" I think mine is a RM3 chain right now. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
You want professional user reduced kickback chain. Which Stihl brand chain would that be? Say for a MS 261 20" .325" I think mine is a RM3 chain right now. The reduced kickback chain is generally the same as safety chain. Every reduced kickback chain I've ever used sucked. The professional chain from Stihl is usually marked with a yellow dot which is supposed to symbolize increased kickback potential. I use Stihl RSC pro-grade chain. It's pretty good stuff. |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 3:27:16 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The reduced kickback chain is generally the same as safety chain. Every reduced kickback chain I've ever used sucked. The professional chain from Stihl is usually marked with a yellow dot which is supposed to symbolize increased kickback potential. I use Stihl RSC pro-grade chain. It's pretty good stuff. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: You want professional user reduced kickback chain. Which Stihl brand chain would that be? Say for a MS 261 20" .325" I think mine is a RM3 chain right now. The reduced kickback chain is generally the same as safety chain. Every reduced kickback chain I've ever used sucked. The professional chain from Stihl is usually marked with a yellow dot which is supposed to symbolize increased kickback potential. I use Stihl RSC pro-grade chain. It's pretty good stuff. There's multiple levels of kickback chains. |
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Posted: 11/14/2013 4:36:59 PM EDT
[#29]
I run Stil yellow because I got 5 boxes on sell for almost half of what I used to pay for oregon . My saws are a Stil 290 and a pioneer Farm saw II
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Posted: 11/14/2013 5:35:18 PM EDT
[#30]
Quoted:
Hi all, where do you guys buy your chains, and which brand do you use? I need a few chains, and was just wondering if there would be a better place online then ACE or something like that. thanks I run a lot of baileys chains and like them. Amicks has some good deals on Oregon chains as well. Sundance |
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Posted: 11/15/2013 4:45:44 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I buy 10 chains every 4 or so years from a seller on ebay that i've dealt with in the past... they own a store someplace, and are affordable. I forget the name, and always have to dig receipts to find who it is
I get the Husky / Oregon chain, and it works good for the price. The Stihl chain is 2x as much, and I can't see that being worth it. 346xpg & 372xp are my saws. The 346 gets used a lot more... it's light weight and rips but for the big Oak the larger saw is worth it for sure. I use chisel chain reduced kick back I believe. As soon as my "safety" chain got used up it got tossed... nothing like wasting gas. I use the local saw shop for some chains, oil, and other misc parts... they are a husky dealer so it works out well :) I have a 371xp and anyone that has ever used it loves it. My friend just bought the 346xp and said they are hard to find and the replacement has a funky carb. Sounds like I need to track one down. He also has a larger XP than my 371 but I can't remember the number although I do remember it is a beast. Grove |
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Posted: 11/15/2013 7:06:56 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have a 371xp and anyone that has ever used it loves it. My friend just bought the 346xp and said they are hard to find and the replacement has a funky carb. Sounds like I need to track one down. He also has a larger XP than my 371 but I can't remember the number although I do remember it is a beast. Grove Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I buy 10 chains every 4 or so years from a seller on ebay that i've dealt with in the past... they own a store someplace, and are affordable. I forget the name, and always have to dig receipts to find who it is I get the Husky / Oregon chain, and it works good for the price. The Stihl chain is 2x as much, and I can't see that being worth it. 346xpg & 372xp are my saws. The 346 gets used a lot more... it's light weight and rips but for the big Oak the larger saw is worth it for sure. I use chisel chain reduced kick back I believe. As soon as my "safety" chain got used up it got tossed... nothing like wasting gas. I use the local saw shop for some chains, oil, and other misc parts... they are a husky dealer so it works out well :) I have a 371xp and anyone that has ever used it loves it. My friend just bought the 346xp and said they are hard to find and the replacement has a funky carb. Sounds like I need to track one down. He also has a larger XP than my 371 but I can't remember the number although I do remember it is a beast. Grove There's some weird TrioBrake version on ebay... but not sure if it has the weird carb or not. I'd like to snag another 346xp too if they're gonna be gone here soon !! eek |
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Posted: 11/15/2013 2:17:23 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There's some weird TrioBrake version on ebay... but not sure if it has the weird carb or not. I'd like to snag another 346xp too if they're gonna be gone here soon !! eek Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I buy 10 chains every 4 or so years from a seller on ebay that i've dealt with in the past... they own a store someplace, and are affordable. I forget the name, and always have to dig receipts to find who it is
I get the Husky / Oregon chain, and it works good for the price. The Stihl chain is 2x as much, and I can't see that being worth it. 346xpg & 372xp are my saws. The 346 gets used a lot more... it's light weight and rips but for the big Oak the larger saw is worth it for sure. I use chisel chain reduced kick back I believe. As soon as my "safety" chain got used up it got tossed... nothing like wasting gas. I use the local saw shop for some chains, oil, and other misc parts... they are a husky dealer so it works out well :) I have a 371xp and anyone that has ever used it loves it. My friend just bought the 346xp and said they are hard to find and the replacement has a funky carb. Sounds like I need to track one down. He also has a larger XP than my 371 but I can't remember the number although I do remember it is a beast. Grove There's some weird TrioBrake version on ebay... but not sure if it has the weird carb or not. I'd like to snag another 346xp too if they're gonna be gone here soon !! eek DO NOT GET THE TRIO BRAKE VERSION!!! All of the new 346XP'S have the same carb, it is the replacement (550XP) that has the autotune carb 
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Posted: 11/15/2013 3:57:57 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The reduced kickback chain is generally the same as safety chain. Every reduced kickback chain I've ever used sucked. The professional chain from Stihl is usually marked with a yellow dot which is supposed to symbolize increased kickback potential. I use Stihl RSC pro-grade chain. It's pretty good stuff. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
You want professional user reduced kickback chain. Which Stihl brand chain would that be? Say for a MS 261 20" .325" I think mine is a RM3 chain right now. The reduced kickback chain is generally the same as safety chain. Every reduced kickback chain I've ever used sucked. The professional chain from Stihl is usually marked with a yellow dot which is supposed to symbolize increased kickback potential. I use Stihl RSC pro-grade chain. It's pretty good stuff. To quote Oregon: 72LGX, 73LGX, and 75LGX are yellow-label chains. Though these chains have ramped depth gauges which reduce kickback energies, these are NOT low-kickback chains. These chains should be used ONLY by individuals with experience and specialized training for dealing with kickback. This is basic Oregon pro grade chain, which almost all of the saw shops here use to buld loops for commerical users (some sell these automatically to everyone walking in the door, some don't) This is refered to as reduced kick back or ANSI yellow label, vs the junk low kickback (green label). I avoid even the yellow label if it has depth guage or depth guage ramps on both the cutter and strap. I never see loggers use it, and it appears to me to be a yellow-green chain. The stuff that is truely not reduced kickback chain i(with peg depth guages) is usually intended only for harvesters or saw mills, though like I said, there are a few options where it works. I would consider low kickback chain if you use a top handle saw on the ground., They give you much less resistance to kickback, and are intended (at tleast those made by major companies) to be arborists topping saws I've owned two, but it is not a saw you use fatigued. |
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Posted: 11/15/2013 4:39:04 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
To quote Oregon: 72LGX, 73LGX, and 75LGX are yellow-label chains. Though these chains have ramped depth gauges which reduce kickback energies, these are NOT low-kickback chains. These chains should be used ONLY by individuals with experience and specialized training for dealing with kickback. This is basic Oregon pro grade chain, which almost all of the saw shops here use to buld loops for commerical users (some sell these automatically to everyone walking in the door, some don't) This is refered to as reduced kick back or ANSI yellow label, vs the junk low kickback (green label). I avoid even the yellow label if it has depth guage or depth guage ramps on both the cutter and strap. I never see loggers use it, and it appears to me to be a yellow-green chain. The stuff that is truely not reduced kickback chain i(with peg depth guages) is usually intended only for harvesters or saw mills, though like I said, there are a few options where it works. I would consider low kickback chain if you use a top handle saw on the ground., They give you much less resistance to kickback, and are intended (at tleast those made by major companies) to be arborists topping saws I've owned two, but it is not a saw you use fatigued. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
You want professional user reduced kickback chain. Which Stihl brand chain would that be? Say for a MS 261 20" .325" I think mine is a RM3 chain right now. The reduced kickback chain is generally the same as safety chain. Every reduced kickback chain I've ever used sucked. The professional chain from Stihl is usually marked with a yellow dot which is supposed to symbolize increased kickback potential. I use Stihl RSC pro-grade chain. It's pretty good stuff. To quote Oregon: 72LGX, 73LGX, and 75LGX are yellow-label chains. Though these chains have ramped depth gauges which reduce kickback energies, these are NOT low-kickback chains. These chains should be used ONLY by individuals with experience and specialized training for dealing with kickback. This is basic Oregon pro grade chain, which almost all of the saw shops here use to buld loops for commerical users (some sell these automatically to everyone walking in the door, some don't) This is refered to as reduced kick back or ANSI yellow label, vs the junk low kickback (green label). I avoid even the yellow label if it has depth guage or depth guage ramps on both the cutter and strap. I never see loggers use it, and it appears to me to be a yellow-green chain. The stuff that is truely not reduced kickback chain i(with peg depth guages) is usually intended only for harvesters or saw mills, though like I said, there are a few options where it works. I would consider low kickback chain if you use a top handle saw on the ground., They give you much less resistance to kickback, and are intended (at tleast those made by major companies) to be arborists topping saws I've owned two, but it is not a saw you use fatigued. I was mistakenly thinking that "low kickback" and "reduced kickback" is the same thing. You are correct. I do use and like Oregon LGX and LPX along with Stihl RSC. |
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Posted: 11/15/2013 6:18:37 PM EDT
[#36]
^-- Same as the ones I use too.
So, what's wrong with the TRIO BRAKE 346xp if you can remove it? And no one has used the other saw I asked about above ?? I've heard they were nice. |
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Posted: 11/16/2013 3:52:29 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
^-- Same as the ones I use too. So, what's wrong with the TRIO BRAKE 346xp if you can remove it? And no one has used the other saw I asked about above ?? I've heard they were nice. The Trio-Brake set-up is for people who do not have experience using chainsaws and it is annoying and gets in the way. I do not think that you can remove it. As to the other saws, you may be referring to the 372XP which is a great saw The other larger ones would be the 395XP or the big 3120XP. I have used all three and all are great saws. When my Stihl 044 needs to be replaced I will probably get a larger Husqvarna. I would probably get the 395XP but if I found a good deal on a new 372XP right now I would not pass it up. ETA: It seems to me that the Trio-Brake system is big in European countries. |
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Posted: 11/16/2013 7:39:03 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The Trio-Brake set-up is for people who do not have experience using chainsaws and it is annoying and gets in the way. I do not think that you can remove it. As to the other saws, you may be referring to the 372XP which is a great saw The other larger ones would be the 395XP or the big 3120XP. I have used all three and all are great saws. When my Stihl 044 needs to be replaced I will probably get a larger Husqvarna. I would probably get the 395XP but if I found a good deal on a new 372XP right now I would not pass it up. ETA: It seems to me that the Trio-Brake system is big in European countries. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: ^-- Same as the ones I use too. So, what's wrong with the TRIO BRAKE 346xp if you can remove it? And no one has used the other saw I asked about above ?? I've heard they were nice. The Trio-Brake set-up is for people who do not have experience using chainsaws and it is annoying and gets in the way. I do not think that you can remove it. As to the other saws, you may be referring to the 372XP which is a great saw The other larger ones would be the 395XP or the big 3120XP. I have used all three and all are great saws. When my Stihl 044 needs to be replaced I will probably get a larger Husqvarna. I would probably get the 395XP but if I found a good deal on a new 372XP right now I would not pass it up. ETA: It seems to me that the Trio-Brake system is big in European countries. Nope, I have a 372, and 346. Was asking about the 550xp that replaced the 346.. I believe it's the "Auto Tune" carb, weighs 1lb less, has same power... but was curious if it was as good as the 346 or not |
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Posted: 11/16/2013 8:40:31 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nope, I have a 372, and 346. Was asking about the 550xp that replaced the 346.. I believe it's the "Auto Tune" carb, weighs 1lb less, has same power... but was curious if it was as good as the 346 or not
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
^-- Same as the ones I use too. So, what's wrong with the TRIO BRAKE 346xp if you can remove it? And no one has used the other saw I asked about above ?? I've heard they were nice. The Trio-Brake set-up is for people who do not have experience using chainsaws and it is annoying and gets in the way. I do not think that you can remove it. As to the other saws, you may be referring to the 372XP which is a great saw The other larger ones would be the 395XP or the big 3120XP. I have used all three and all are great saws. When my Stihl 044 needs to be replaced I will probably get a larger Husqvarna. I would probably get the 395XP but if I found a good deal on a new 372XP right now I would not pass it up. ETA: It seems to me that the Trio-Brake system is big in European countries. Nope, I have a 372, and 346. Was asking about the 550xp that replaced the 346.. I believe it's the "Auto Tune" carb, weighs 1lb less, has same power... but was curious if it was as good as the 346 or not
No it is not as good. The auto tune carb has had it's issues. You have a great saw (346xp). I recently bought one and used it for two days. I left it up at our new property and missed it so much I had to buy another one . The new one is going to sit in the box as maybe one day they will be a collectors item. They are very good saws and are getting very hard to find.
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Posted: 11/17/2013 8:38:33 AM EDT
[#40]
thanks all, awesome replies!!
next question would be : I sharpen my chains with a file, no issues with it, but im thinking about buying a machine to sharpen them for when im at home and just doing regular maintenance, that would allow the chain to have all the teeth at the same height again, even though I try to make sure I file on every tooth the same amount, its not always possible |
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Posted: 11/17/2013 8:58:01 AM EDT
[#41]
When using the machine make sure you aren't taking off a lot more material than need be. This is a common occurrence when you pay to have them done... the quicker they are completely worn out the sooner you buy more...
 from the shop of course!I've heard good things about the HF sharpener but haven't used it myself. |
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Posted: 11/17/2013 9:40:11 AM EDT
[#42]
I use a Carlton grinder which is made by Tecomec. They also produce the Oregon grinders.
They can be somewhat of a pain in the ass to get set-up. Once they are dialed in they produce sharp chains. You also have to be careful not to overheat the tooth on the chain as it will blue and become softer. This will mean more frequent sharpening as the chain will not hold an edge as long. |
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Posted: 11/17/2013 11:56:32 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When using the machine make sure you aren't taking off a lot more material than need be. This is a common occurrence when you pay to have them done... the quicker they are completely worn out the sooner you buy more... from the shop of course!
I've heard good things about the HF sharpener but haven't used it myself. In my experience, they never set it to cut too deep, if they can get away with the last setting, they will use if for your saw. Lazyness, not greed. I had a real saw shop do this once, I pointed it out to them, and they gave me a brand new chain. They certainly acted like the kid hired to sharpen chains was going to get retraining at best. Of course the sales lady there had sold me 2-3 saws, a backpack blower/sprayer, weedeater and pole saw |
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Posted: 11/17/2013 7:43:43 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
thanks all, awesome replies!! next question would be : I sharpen my chains with a file, no issues with it, but im thinking about buying a machine to sharpen them for when im at home and just doing regular maintenance, that would allow the chain to have all the teeth at the same height again, even though I try to make sure I file on every tooth the same amount, its not always possible I say skip the electric grinders. They are tough to get set just right and IMHO no matter how careful you are to get it set just right you will still likely be taking more than necessary off to get a sharp chain which means you will see reduced chain-life. The more care/time you put into it the longer you can make the chains last but at that point you're putting just as much care and time into sharpening as you would hand-filing. Realistically, I can hand-sharpen a chain just as fast as a machine can. It takes a little bit more focus and care to get each tooth just right but if you aren't capable of putting care & focus into something you don't have any business having a chainsaw... That is just my opinion... |
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Posted: 11/18/2013 3:18:07 AM EDT
[#45]
I agree on passing on the electric chain sharpeners
Personally Ive always filed my chains by hand but Im thinking of getting one of these Timberline sharpener Anyone have any experience with this? |
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Posted: 11/18/2013 3:57:06 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I agree on passing on the electric chain sharpeners Personally Ive always filed my chains by hand but Im thinking of getting one of these Timberline sharpener Anyone have any experience with this? I have tried one and liked it but they are expensive for what they are. I have done so many chains that I don't need the special tools like that. I just use the correct round files and a flat file for the rakers or if I am doing multiple chains I use the grinder. These are pretty good for the price. And These are even better. |
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Posted: 11/18/2013 6:09:57 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I say skip the electric grinders. They are tough to get set just right and IMHO no matter how careful you are to get it set just right you will still likely be taking more than necessary off to get a sharp chain which means you will see reduced chain-life. The more care/time you put into it the longer you can make the chains last but at that point you're putting just as much care and time into sharpening as you would hand-filing. Realistically, I can hand-sharpen a chain just as fast as a machine can. It takes a little bit more focus and care to get each tooth just right but if you aren't capable of putting care & focus into something you don't have any business having a chainsaw... That is just my opinion... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
thanks all, awesome replies!! next question would be : I sharpen my chains with a file, no issues with it, but im thinking about buying a machine to sharpen them for when im at home and just doing regular maintenance, that would allow the chain to have all the teeth at the same height again, even though I try to make sure I file on every tooth the same amount, its not always possible I say skip the electric grinders. They are tough to get set just right and IMHO no matter how careful you are to get it set just right you will still likely be taking more than necessary off to get a sharp chain which means you will see reduced chain-life. The more care/time you put into it the longer you can make the chains last but at that point you're putting just as much care and time into sharpening as you would hand-filing. Realistically, I can hand-sharpen a chain just as fast as a machine can. It takes a little bit more focus and care to get each tooth just right but if you aren't capable of putting care & focus into something you don't have any business having a chainsaw... That is just my opinion... +1 The more you use a hand file sharpening a chain the better you get! |
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Posted: 11/18/2013 7:39:05 AM EDT
[#48]
Can someone point me in a good direction on hand filing a chain sharp again? My dad just goes out and buys new chains. As I will be clearing a lot of dead standing trees and some fallen trees this winter I would like to get the ones he won't use any more sharp and ready before I head out after deer season.
Thanks for any help. |
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Posted: 11/18/2013 8:34:12 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can someone point me in a good direction on hand filing a chain sharp again? My dad just goes out and buys new chains. As I will be clearing a lot of dead standing trees and some fallen trees this winter I would like to get the ones he won't use any more sharp and ready before I head out after deer season. Thanks for any help. Unfortunately I can't find the really awesome pdf I learned on. I did find this one from Stihl. It will get you started. I recommend you buy one of the small "guides" that attaches to your file and keeps you at the correct angle and depth... |
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Posted: 11/18/2013 8:53:59 AM EDT
[#50]
Carlton chain. Longer cutters.
They were bought out by Oregon a few years back. |
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