Going to look at a boat tomorrow, and I know jack crap about them. I can check the engine oil and stuff, but when it comes to drives I am lost. I'd like to check the drive fluid, no idea how to check the boot between drive and the motor (i think). I also am telling him if we work a deal, I want to lake test it before I buy it. Here is the boat. Main use would be a family boat for Lake Havasu.

Boat

Pay a mechanic 100 bucks to check cylinder compression is the most important IMO. Most other things should be fairly obvious. IE cracks in hull/transom, batteries, wiring. Check function on the trolling motor. Ask about additives added to the fuel and how long it's been sitting, ethanol will gum up fuel lines etc. Pull hubs and check bearing grease on trailer. All I can think of atm.

What he said.  Take it to a boat mechanic. And you'll still be lucky if he finds every problem.   Find out if it's ever been in salt water.

Unfortunately, the boat is located in a small vacation mountain town, and both boat shops are booked a month out. The seller also does not live there full time, and either do it.

Read me.
Compression test is just the tip of the iceberg.
IM me if you have any questions.

Volvo Penta oil recommendations..

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ETA -- I just saw you are bringing a boat down from a mountain resort. You may have to re-prop the boat to compensate for the elevation change.

What's the elevation at the mountain resort?

Yes, it came with the high altitude prop on it, but also came with the original prop and an extra with the same pitch as the original. I will be swapping them as well as adjusting the carb.

What altitude is it coming down from?

6,750 feet

Hopefully the spare prop will allow it to reach recommended WOT RPM's. Check this immediately when you run the boat at Havasu.

ETA -- Adjusting the carb (idle mixture and speed) aren't the only things done to adapt a carb to high altitude.

Sometimes a jet change is in order. Since it's only at 6700 ft, jets  probably haven't been messed with so just the

prop should be GTG.

Another thing that is done for high altitude is a gear ratio change in the outdrive. This is kind of rare, but going up to

or above 8000ft it is necessary. Just something else to be aware of.

Thanks for the info. Regarding the prop, which one should be good to go? The factory one or the high altitude? I'm assuming the factory one.

At Havasu where the elevation is roughly 700ft, try the "factory" prop first. Note RPM's at wide open throttle with the boat trimmed up

on plane. The RPM's should fall within the recommended RPM range which should be listed on the plastic engine cover

or on the small electrical box on the engine. IIRC it should be between 4400 and 4800 RPM's but check the data on the engine.

Be aware that engines will lose some HP when the ambient air temps go up. An engine rated at say 260HP on a 70 degree day

at sea level will make less power when the air temp goes up like it does at Havasu. When it's 110 degrees the engine will

lose HP sometimes to the tune of 30 or 40HP.

RPM's (detonation), coolant temp and oil pressure are really all that matter in regards to boat engines. Pay no attention to the speedometer.