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Posted: 7/27/2014 8:03:06 AM EDT
My outdoor boots are "water proof" but we all know that "water proof" boots are only "water resistant" unless they are made of rubber.


The leather would always get soaked and at a minimum weigh the boots down.  


I just applied Sno-Seal which is bees wax and supposed to make them water proof.  Tested them under the sink after applying and it seems to work well on the leather portion (the nylon portion needed no help as the water beads off that part quite well).


I'm headed to Colorado on Wednesday for a week so I'll update how it holds up.


Pretty easy to apply.  Lathered it on, then hit with a hair dryer and it melted right in to the leather.  Makes the leather nice and supple too!


Link Posted: 7/27/2014 10:50:52 PM EDT
[#1]
I have two pairs of "waterproof" boots.  They have gore liners in them and I put the manufacturers recommended treatment on them which is a leather conditioner.  It does bead up water but its main job is to prevent the leather from drying out and cracking.  I used snowseal back in the day - we used to heat our boots in front of the oven on low and then wipe the snowseal on.

You're going to have a great trip regardless.  I would take some river shoes for any crossings though.


Link Posted: 7/28/2014 7:33:21 AM EDT
[#2]
I have been using just plain beeswax, melted on the stove, applied with a brush and the hit the boots with a heat gun and the leather absorbs the wax.

It made them stiff for a little while, but they are great now, and there is lots of wax still in there, on a hot day sometimes it will soften up and surface.
Link Posted: 7/28/2014 8:51:58 AM EDT
[#3]
I started using Snoseal back in Boy Scouts in the '70s and still use it on my leather boots.  Warm the leather a bit then rub it in good and hit it with a hair dryer.  Be careful using a heat gun as you can cause the glue in the soles of most boots these days to start releasing.  It wasn't a problem with the older Norwegian welts but most boots these days have glued on soles.  That said I don't wear full leather boots much anymore.  Nikwax makes a spray on product that will help make synthetics like Cordura strongly water resistant.
Link Posted: 7/28/2014 1:50:00 PM EDT
[#4]
I always used Mink Oil on my leather boots.
Link Posted: 7/28/2014 4:09:22 PM EDT
[#5]
Has the "never-wet" from Rustoleum been useful for anyone? I've heard it's short lasting and needs regular re application.

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/neverwet/neverwet-outdoor-fabric
Link Posted: 7/28/2014 4:12:18 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Has the "never-wet" from Rustoleum been useful for anyone? I've heard it's short lasting and needs regular re application.

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/neverwet/neverwet-outdoor-fabric
View Quote


I did a tent with it last week, it seems to be doing it's job, but the stink of it is terrible.

It took 3 days of gassing off for the smell to go away, and there is no way you could use it inside.

The carrier is mineral spirits or turpentine or something.
Link Posted: 7/29/2014 9:47:02 AM EDT
[#7]
I used Sno-Seal for years. Works really well for water proofing but will shrink the leather over time.

I currently use NikWax. It appears to be latex based and works well but you need to apply it EVERY trip for best results because it wears off easy.

Easy to apply and only takes a few minutes. Get the boots wet (weird I know) and wipe on with bottle sponge tip.
Link Posted: 8/1/2014 10:27:49 PM EDT
[#8]
The main difference between a good wax and oil is in the life of stitching. I'd stick with the wax.

Occasional Neatsfoot... works well to supple tack (horse leather).
Link Posted: 8/2/2014 11:20:44 AM EDT
[#9]
I have used sno-seal for many years on several different pairs of boots.  I do several re-applications during a hunting season.  With several different pairs of boots I have never experienced premature boot failure.  I only use them during hunting seasons but have never had a pair of boots cover less then several hundred over several years of wilderness miles to include swampy marshes, and mountain tops.

These boots are Danner pronghorns, at least 5 years old with at least 300 miles on them.









You can see in the pictures the leather is nice and glossed over...  They get a fresh coat of sno-seal before and after every season, and a few during the season.
Link Posted: 8/2/2014 5:02:48 PM EDT
[#10]
I've been using sno-seal since the early 80's. Before gore-tex  boots were common or affordable.
Best boot treatment I've found.
I've used all sorts of water proofing products prior, but nothing works as well as Sno-seal for me.

I used to use mink oil on other leather goods to condition and clean.
I read some wear that mink oil will degrade leather over time.
After reading that I just use Sno-seal on any leather items I would have used mink oil on.

I have had No issues.
Link Posted: 8/2/2014 6:17:51 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 8/8/2014 11:26:42 PM EDT
[#12]
I used a product called Bistol when I was tele skiing with my leather Merril boots.  It w as what was recomended by the manufacturer as well as all of the mountaneer folks.  I may be spelling it wrong.  White tube with red and green writing.
Link Posted: 11/11/2014 10:04:02 AM EDT
[#13]
Sno Seal is some good stuff, used it for years on my boots. I applied it liberally, paying attention to the seams of the boot. Heated with a hair dryer, the leather sucked it right up.
Link Posted: 11/11/2014 12:21:26 PM EDT
[#14]
Been using Sno Seal since the 80s. I put it on any leather that I don't want to dry out, including sheaths, holsters, and rifle slings.
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