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Posted: 4/25/2024 12:10:21 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stanprophet09: Started on my amp remote control head today. I was originally going to use this for my Harris 6m amp, but with the 2M on the way I have decided that I will dedicate this as my VHF and above. But I will be using this to monitor the 50V power supply. I will run the amp Bird line sections into the back of this with a band switch so I can monitor power. So overall it will be a 14v 100 amp power supply with Voltage reading for the 14V and 50V. It has a 4 event sequencer in it, a Bird PEP kit with a 2X/5X switch. I will have the 240v on the main power switch with the LED and a switch for the Amp Contactors. I will also have a standby switch for all of the amps. The Watt meter has a switch for the LED backlight. Right now I have it wired for the PEP kit with the 9v battery and will be using a DC to DC buck converter to power the peak kit. Still need to machine the back cover for the 240v plug and the 75 amp power pole and matching a piece that can hold it to the box. I put a bunch of RCA connectors for the Sequencer. I also put 6 BNC connector on the back for the bird line sections to come into the band switch so I will be using this on the 6m amp for power monitoring until I get my other one built. The power pole housing would like the panel to be thicker so I potted it with some E6000 and will machine a spacer for it later. Still need to finish the wiring of it and get some stubby switches as the local supply only had one and I like them better than the long ones. I did not hook the band switch up since I am getting ready to jump on a 6m net so wanted to test out the meter, wire is long enough to cut and still make it to the band switch when I finish up the wiring. Have the HP power supply mounted with 3m mounting tape right now but will be adding brackets that I am 3d printing. All of the board standoffs and insulators were machined out of Delrin on my lathe and the peak kit ones isolate the bolts from the cabinet and are held down through the meter stud holes. My meter has a non standard mounting tab so had to adapt the kit to fit this box. Plan is to build another one like this for the Harris 6M amp and the HF/6M 2kw LDMOS kit I will be building this year. I may not put the sequencer in it, since I have one in a project enclosure and there is no need for a power supply in the other one. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9759_JPG-3194602.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9760_JPG-3194603.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9761_JPG-3194604.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9762_JPG-3194605.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9763_JPG-3194606.JPG I don't really get what it is you're building, but the actual component placement looks well planned out and neatly done. Is this for an amp that is just too big to locate with the rest of your station equipment? Or does it require a separate control? Nice work either way. I'd be very proud of building something that neat. |
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Posted: 4/25/2024 2:21:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: stanprophet09]
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jambalaya: I don't really get what it is you're building, but the actual component placement looks well planned out and neatly done. Is this for an amp that is just too big to locate with the rest of your station equipment? Or does it require a separate control? Nice work either way. I'd be very proud of building something that neat. Indeed. It will be controlling several remote amps. The main power has the 100amp 12v supply for the station and my smaller brick amps. This will allow me to monitor the 12v status and the voltage on my 51v supply. Switches for the contactors to control the voltage to the 2 big Harris amps. The box also has the 4 even sequencer for all the LNA and Amp keying circuits for the Bias and relays. The meter has a band switch that allows me to monitor all the amps output using the peak kit and bird line sections. Currently have 1 harris for 6m and another coming for 2m. They are big but they are designed for 1kw @100% duty cycle. I run a lot of FT8 , MSK-144, Q65 so they fit the bill nicely.  Attached FilePardon the mess but these will be mounted on the side on the cart with the HP power supply in the middle of them. I am working on a rack for these, my AM-6154 amps and future space for a Home Brew LDMOS Hf-6m 2kw rated amp. Eventually I will build a second box. One for my 7300 for HF-6m and one for my 9700 for 2m-1296 ETA: I need to rewire the fans. Added a 15ohm 100w to slow the fans down. They are 50v 250cfm fans running in series parallel so have about 24 volts going to them. Has to slow the fans in the supply as well so it does not sound like I am on a jet engine test stand while operating. |
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Posted: 4/25/2024 6:11:32 PM EDT
[#3]
I'm following your reports with great interest as I will need to build similar control systems.
I am planning to have my pair of Harris amps (with power and control) in the basement, while the rig(s) will be upstairs. I may even run the rigs remotely (at least from an upper floor of the house). So remote monitoring and control of 'everything' is on the table. (BTW, I will be using 5 fans instead of 4 for each amp - haven't decided yet whether or how to control the fan speed, but since they will be located on a different floor of the house from my operating position, fan noise reduction is less of a concern for me.) |
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Posted: 4/25/2024 7:17:12 PM EDT
[Last Edit: stanprophet09]
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By targetworks: I'm following your reports with great interest as I will need to build similar control systems. I am planning to have my pair of Harris amps (with power and control) in the basement, while the rig(s) will be upstairs. I may even run the rigs remotely (at least from an upper floor of the house). So remote monitoring and control of 'everything' is on the table. (BTW, I will be using 5 fans instead of 4 for each amp - haven't decided yet whether or how to control the fan speed, but since they will be located on a different floor of the house from my operating position, fan noise reduction is less of a concern for me.) So be mindful that the Harris only requires about 250cfm of air while it was in service at 100% duty cycle. I am using 4 200cfm fans at half voltage and slowing them with a resistor. Even with that I did a 20min FT8 cycle at 1250w and the cooling fins were lukewarm. I have done rag chew sessions with a KW for about 2 hours and never kicked the fans on and it was not really that warm. They also have thermal protection as well. I am going to add some type of fan control, thinking of a thermal switch to kick them on. I was going to do a relay to kick the resistor out of line with the fans to kick the speed up a bit but have not found a need for that. If I do EME I will have to do that. Once I get the separate box for the 6m amp I can wire the feedback line to the LED on the control, and put fan controls in it. As far as relays I am going to get some Relay boards from W6PQL for the 2m amp and probably do the same for my 6m amp. I can save the Coaxial relays for a 1296 amp build in the future or for the AM-6154's I am picking up this weekend for 432.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileStill need to machine a block for the 75amp power pole on the back of the box. Going to have to build longer stanoffs for my Sequencer and run it over the power pole. AC is wired and I can use 120v for 70A or 240 for 100A. The PS auto switches. Some switches and finish the remote cable wiring. Had to get new Volt meters due to them not reading up to 50v. I am using a Clincko 7 pin system for the remote control wires and plan on running the same pinout on the 2m Amp. Little at a time it is coming together. My drill holes turned out ok. I need a DRO for my mill in the future if I want them perfect but so far I like it. Most of the mistakes are on the back. May end up repainting the enclosure and doing the Vinyl on my cutter or engraving it with my CNC router and putting clear over it, but for now its all about getting it functional. |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 4:09:20 PM EDT
[#5]
Just picked up 2 AM-6154 FAA amps and heading home. These will be getting a conversion to 432Mhz. Super pumped to get into these.
I have some crazy idea brewing in my head, and going to have to have a conversation with a couple of friends and see what they think, maybe get them to talk me down on this idea. Lol |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 6:07:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#6]
Still chipping away at the screwdriver build. Did some fittings & made a few changes. Finally decided on a method for RF wiring that works OK with the assembly sequence of the various parts.
The gear motor came in & I got to do a fitting with the mount. Center conductor from SO239 goes to bolt on side. That's where the connection to the contactor ring will connect, passing through the same opening as the motor wiring. Only using 2 of the 6 motor connections for now. The other 4 are for hall effect encoders for use with something like an arduino controller. There are two pigtails with 1/4" spade connects for the RF ground connection. Will probably use faraday cloth as a "magic carpet".  Attached FileWired a simple up/down controller & tested it.  Attached FileAlso got the M6 allthread in & mounted it & a nut on the coil form. Heated the nut mount area & folded over the edges for nut retention. Also did a connector for motor shaft/allthread.  Attached FileETA: did a simple tripod mount that breaks down for transport/storage.  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 6:30:18 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stanprophet09: Just picked up 2 AM-6154 FAA amps and heading home. These will be getting a conversion to 432Mhz. Super pumped to get into these. I have some crazy idea brewing in my head, and going to have to have a conversation with a couple of friends and see what they think, maybe get them to talk me down on this idea. Lol I have an AM-6155 that has already been converted to 222 MHz. I have not run it yet, because it is waiting for me to finish wiring up a 240VAC subpanel in my radio shack (and also waiting on some antenna work). (Wondering what kind of crazy ideas those may be.) |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 8:30:10 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nikdfish: Still chipping away at the screwdriver build. Did some fittings & made a few changes. Finally decided on a method for RF wiring that works OK with the assembly sequence of the various parts. The gear motor came in & I got to do a fitting with the mount. Center conductor from SO239 goes to bolt on side. That's where the connection to the contactor ring will connect, passing through the same opening as the motor wiring. Only using 2 of the 6 motor connections for now. The other 4 are for hall effect encoders for use with something like an arduino controller. There are two pigtails with 1/4" spade connects for the RF ground connection. Will probably use faraday cloth as a "magic carpet". https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240427_175726015_PORTRAITb_jpg-3199574.JPG Wired a simple up/down controller & tested it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240427_210747477b_jpg-3199575.JPG Also got the M6 allthread in & mounted it & a nut on the coil form. Heated the nut mount area & folded over the edges for nut retention. Also did a connector for motor shaft/allthread. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240426_003356360_PORTRAITb_jpg-3199572.JPG ETA: did a simple tripod mount that breaks down for transport/storage. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240427_231430256b_jpg-3199682.JPG Looking nice so far. I bought a kit a while back that has some small M3 sized threaded brass inserts and comes with tips for a soldering iron that you use to melt into plastic, similar to what you did with that nut. I don't know if they make them that big though. The tripod looks like a model rocket launch pad. 
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Posted: 4/27/2024 8:42:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Jambalaya]
[#9]
Nothing too big here. I needed an amp cable now that my SB220 resto is almost ready to go on the air.
I rummaged through some boxes of wires and found what was probably an audio/video cable for a digital camera, to go to an older TV. I cut the 1/8" phone plug off and split it into 2 RCA cables. A few years back, I had bought some 8 pin mini DIN connectors to use with an FT-817ND for a different project. I dug around and found them. The FT-450D I have set up right now uses a 10 pin mini DIN for the amp connection, but it turns out their tuner jack is 8 pin and has a PTT pin as well. I'm hoping this plays nice with the soft key module in the amp. Anyhow, building it saved me nearly $40 if I had bought it from DX Engineering!   Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileI put a "tune" label on the plug so I don't try to force it into the amp jack at a later date.  Also, I need to finish any more of these tiny soldering projects before I get any older. |
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Posted: 4/27/2024 10:39:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: lorazepam]
[#10]
I made one of those fancy in line chokes with 5 mix 31 beads, a foot or so of coax, some shrink tubing, and a male and female connector. Chameleon wants 57 bucks, and I made it for around 25. I hope it works.
 Attached File |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:52:31 AM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#11]
Got the coil wound, ~67' of 16 awg tinned copper.
 Attached FileFinal assembly & some motor function testing  Attached File Attached File Screwdriver motor test Still waiting on a short whip & mount. ETA - FWIW, looks like the coil is good for up to a bit over 100 uH. |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 1:32:54 PM EDT
[#12]
5:1 unun "cha" matching transformer.
This is what's inside the chameleon CHA for the MPAS antennas and the tactical delta loop. Holy cow it was a challenge to solder the tubes to the circuit boards. It ain't pretty, but I hope it works. Just need an enclosure for it  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 1:38:21 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By lorazepam: I made one of those fancy in line chokes with 5 mix 31 beads, a foot or so of coax, some shrink tubing, and a male and female connector. Chameleon wants 57 bucks, and I made it for around 25. I hope it works. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/242375/IMG_20240427_214056110_jpg-3199960.JPGThat's the way to do it. Anything you can DIY, you do DIY.  For me, building stuff is a big part of what I enjoy in this hobby. Getting on the air is almost secondary. I like making contacts to prove to myself my DIY stuff works.
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Posted: 4/28/2024 1:55:10 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Jambalaya: That's the way to do it. Anything you can DIY, you do DIY. For me, building stuff is a big part of what I enjoy in this hobby. Getting on the air is almost secondary. I like making contacts to prove to myself my DIY stuff works. I agree. I really like when you build it, and it works just like it is supposed to or even better. If it works as advertised, this thing should match a dog turd to 80m. |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 5:09:32 PM EDT
[#15]
Today I boiled a 1Kw MFJ wet dummy load. It smelled like old french fry mist.
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Posted: 4/28/2024 6:36:10 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Shootindave: Today I boiled a 1Kw MFJ wet dummy load. It smelled like old french fry mist. Haha I'm glad I used regular mineral oil in my little quart sized dummy load because one of our cats likes to lick the lid.
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Posted: 5/1/2024 6:42:57 PM EDT
[#17]
 Attached FileSo looks like one is already converted to 220mhz. Its a bit crispy though and I bought it for spare parts so if it works it works. The other is immaculate. The tube date code is 1992, so this was either a new unit or refurbished before getting surplus sold. The Plate cap of the Amprex tube does not even show any heating. Pay attention to the plate finger stock and the silver plated parts in it.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 5/1/2024 7:38:31 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stanprophet09: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9825_jpeg-3203142.JPG So looks like one is already converted to 220mhz. Its a bit crispy though and I bought it for spare parts so if it works it works. The other is immaculate. The tube date code is 1992, so this was either a new unit or refurbished before getting surplus sold. The Plate cap of the Amprex tube does not even show any heating. Pay attention to the plate finger stock and the silver plated parts in it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9835_jpeg-3203146.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9836_jpeg-3203149.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9837_jpeg-3203150.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/199367/IMG_9838_jpeg-3203152.JPG The clean one is pretty… |
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Posted: 5/3/2024 11:31:33 AM EDT
[#19]
 Attached File Attached FileNew Harris Platunum High Band will be here tomorrow. Then the work begins to get this one up and working on 2m. Also working on this.  Attached FileThis should work out to pull out very weak signals on the SDR with dual RX with the SDR covering a whole band and the IC-7300. TX will be with the 7300/9700 depending on what band I am working. |
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Posted: 5/4/2024 3:58:57 PM EDT
[#20]
Finally got the faraday fabric in for the screwdriver "ground plane", also a small (48") whip. Rain for the last couple of days, so waiting for things to dry out before getting out and actually testing SWR results. I didn't like the lack of stability on the initial tripod so I did some longer legs & a tripod base that clamps around the inner coil cover.
 Attached FileMuch more stable. |
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Posted: 5/4/2024 4:06:19 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nikdfish: Finally got the faraday fabric in for the screwdriver "ground plane", also a small (48") whip. Rain for the last couple of days, so waiting for things to dry out before getting out and actually testing SWR results. I didn't like the lack of stability on the initial tripod so I did some longer legs & a tripod base that clamps around the inner coil cover. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240504_194641612_PORTRAITb_jpg-3205451.JPG Much more stable. Looking forward to this, may have to pick your brain a bit on the finger stock. I have a Lathe and Mill so I will likely not print it, but I do have that option. Following this build closely. Looks good man! |
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Posted: 5/4/2024 4:09:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: stanprophet09]
[#22]
 Attached File Attached File Attached FileHarris number 2 is here. Going to be a bit before I get the stuff to get this on the air. I have to finish the antenna build. Current antenna is only a 6el yagi and upgrading to a 9el for now until I get the tower up. ETA: Pardon the mess under the desk, have my old TK-790 piled up and some parts. I have now mounted the fans on the 6m harris and mounted the brackets on it and mounted on its side, going to run them that way with the 50v switcher between the amps |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 5/4/2024 7:55:19 PM EDT
[#23]
Built some yagi gmrs antennas. Now building 2 cross band repeaters, and a gmrs repeater. Finished 5 more slim jim antennas. Trying to learn how exactly to program a dmr radio. Built a repeater controller, and now trying to finish the voting antenna setup. I cannot stip tinkering with this uvk5 radio. I may have too many irons in the fire.
   
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Posted: 5/6/2024 10:43:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Mach]
[#24]
small project I did yesterday.
Have had a Johnson KW Matchbox that I modded for the 160 meter band several years ago. But I only had a regular knob on the internal vacuum variable cap I installed, so I had no idea where the cap was set once I moved it. Last week I picked up a few Duodial turn counting knobs but they cam without any mounting hardware. I got 3 for $5. So I needed to design and produce something to keep the housing from moving when turning the dial.  Attached File Attached FileThe black piece on the left is what I designed and printed  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 5/6/2024 2:15:29 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mach: small project I did yesterday. Have had a Johnson KW Matchbox that I modded for the 160 meter band several years ago. But I only had a regular knob on the internal vacuum variable cap I installed, so I had no idea where the cap was set once I moved it. Last week I picked up a few Duodial turn counting knobs but they cam without any mounting hardware. I got 3 for $5. So I needed to design and produce something to keep the housing from moving when turning the dial. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_2792_jpg-3206867.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_2805_jpg-3206869.JPG The black piece on the left is what I designed and printed https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0390_jpg-3206870.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0392_jpg-3206871.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0388_jpg-3206873.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0389_jpg-3206874.JPG Did your 160 modification entail more than just adding that vacuum variable capacitor? |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 10:43:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#26]
Used the remainder of the tinned copper buss wire for a vertical antenna loading coil. No screwdriver this time, just a movable contact ring. The coil body was printed as one piece, "hot and fast", with 0.6mm nozzle & ASA filament. Will be waiting on a long telescopic whip for testing.
 Attached FileThe clamp on bottom tripod has removable legs for portability.  Attached FileWires with clamps are for grounding to faraday fabric under the antenna  Attached FileAttachment details  Attached File Attached FileTop element is a 3/8-24 thread extender. ETA - The inductance calculator says it should be good for about 26 uH |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 4:04:21 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mach: small project I did yesterday. Have had a Johnson KW Matchbox that I modded for the 160 meter band several years ago. But I only had a regular knob on the internal vacuum variable cap I installed, so I had no idea where the cap was set once I moved it. Last week I picked up a few Duodial turn counting knobs but they cam without any mounting hardware. I got 3 for $5. So I needed to design and produce something to keep the housing from moving when turning the dial. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_2792_jpg-3206867.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_2805_jpg-3206869.JPG The black piece on the left is what I designed and printed https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0390_jpg-3206870.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0392_jpg-3206871.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0388_jpg-3206873.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0389_jpg-3206874.JPG Outstanding and cool mod! |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 6:45:11 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By targetworks: Did your 160 modification entail more than just adding that vacuum variable capacitor? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By targetworks: Originally Posted By Mach: small project I did yesterday. Have had a Johnson KW Matchbox that I modded for the 160 meter band several years ago. But I only had a regular knob on the internal vacuum variable cap I installed, so I had no idea where the cap was set once I moved it. Last week I picked up a few Duodial turn counting knobs but they cam without any mounting hardware. I got 3 for $5. So I needed to design and produce something to keep the housing from moving when turning the dial. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_2792_jpg-3206867.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_2805_jpg-3206869.JPG The black piece on the left is what I designed and printed https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0390_jpg-3206870.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0392_jpg-3206871.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0388_jpg-3206873.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0389_jpg-3206874.JPG Did your 160 modification entail more than just adding that vacuum variable capacitor? Nope, just add a capacitor in parrallel with the primary coil ( not the drive coil that the radio / amp connects to ) I tested it with a air variable I had by wiring it up from the outside and I used it like that for a looooong time but got tired of the RF in the shack |
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Posted: 5/7/2024 6:48:34 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By K9-Bob: Outstanding and cool mod! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By K9-Bob: Originally Posted By Mach: small project I did yesterday. Have had a Johnson KW Matchbox that I modded for the 160 meter band several years ago. But I only had a regular knob on the internal vacuum variable cap I installed, so I had no idea where the cap was set once I moved it. Last week I picked up a few Duodial turn counting knobs but they cam without any mounting hardware. I got 3 for $5. So I needed to design and produce something to keep the housing from moving when turning the dial. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_2792_jpg-3206867.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_2805_jpg-3206869.JPG The black piece on the left is what I designed and printed https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0390_jpg-3206870.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0392_jpg-3206871.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0388_jpg-3206873.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/98989/IMG_0389_jpg-3206874.JPG Outstanding and cool mod! Thanks. The best part is I used to hole that the meter was in so I made no modifications to the case and it can be back to OEM easily. someday I will repaint the brown mounting surface to match the OEM brown better, but I grew impatient mixing paint
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Posted: 5/8/2024 6:51:54 PM EDT
[Last Edit: limaxray]
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By limaxray: Just received this yesterday. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/30315/20240313_181541v2_jpg-3158965.JPG Nothing else included. Missing the power cord, microphone, any documentation, crystals, and the lamps knob. But otherwise in great shape. Peeked inside and it's pretty clean, and I got it from a guy on Ebay who's cleaning out his ham shack (about 40 other radios he's selling), so I'm assuming it's in good shape internally. Our club has a 6m AM net every Sunday; can't want to get on it using this rig! Anybody know of a parts source besides Ebay? Took me a while to find both the parts and the schematics for a cord (it uses a 12-pin Cinch-Jones with a fused plug), just got all that together today and plugged it in. And this is what I saw....  Attached File Attached FileDidn't hook it up to an antenna yet (not that there's anything around here on 6m AM regularly...), but I am getting a hum out of the speakers. Next up is some crystals and a microphone, and see if it will actually transmit/receive. |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 7:00:14 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By limaxray: Took me a while to find both the parts and the schematics for a cord (it uses a 12-pin Cinch-Jones with a fused plug), just got all that together today and plugged it in. And this is what I saw.... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/30315/20240508_182716_jpg-3209053.JPG Didn't hook it up to an antenna yet (not that there's anything around here on 6m AM regularly...), but I am getting a hum out of the speakers. Next up is some crystals and a microphone, and see if it will actually transmit/receive. I have a 2 meter version. Be careful if you have a hum from the speaker it may have bad Caps on the supply. If the caps have not been replaced I would do that before applying power again. |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 7:16:57 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stanprophet09: I have a 2 meter version. Be careful if you have a hum from the speaker it may have bad Caps on the supply. If the caps have not been replaced I would do that before applying power again. I've been restoring some Zenith Transoceanics (on my third one), so yeah, just wanted to see if it would power up or if it was a boat anchor. After I finish my current B600 project, we'll do a full scrub on this one. It's a little dusty/dirty, so clean it, recap, then test. Sadly, it might be a while. I shorted something in the ZTO. Now, on AC, there's some kind of weird distortion going on (doesn't happen on battery  ) that's not caused by something obvious, so I'm going to have to unsolder a leg of EVERY component, test it, then resolder/replace as required. There's 32 resistors and 40-something caps. 
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Posted: 5/9/2024 4:58:37 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By limaxray: I've been restoring some Zenith Transoceanics (on my third one), so yeah, just wanted to see if it would power up or if it was a boat anchor. After I finish my current B600 project, we'll do a full scrub on this one. It's a little dusty/dirty, so clean it, recap, then test. Sadly, it might be a while. I shorted something in the ZTO. Now, on AC, there's some kind of weird distortion going on (doesn't happen on battery ) that's not caused by something obvious, so I'm going to have to unsolder a leg of EVERY component, test it, then resolder/replace as required. There's 32 resistors and 40-something caps. Those Gonsets are pretty cool. The one I have is hammer toned silver with the CD logo that was partially scrubbed on the side. I have the cinch hones connector with the power plug but sadly it does not power on and was low on my project list. After I get through some of these amps I will see what I can do with it. Paid 20 bucks for it. If the transformer is bad then it will be a wall hanger I guess. Still a cool piece of american history. |
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Posted: 5/9/2024 5:24:23 AM EDT
[#34]
 Attached File Attached File Attached FileAmp control head is nearly done. Power supply is setup and working. I I have 1 switch that powers the supply and one turns the sequencer on. I have 3 other power switches that will ground the W6PQL power mosfet to feed the 50v to each amplifier to power it on. Need to add 1 more LED to the sequencer to show when it is keyed. The main cnlinko connector is going to change. It has the 50v and ground from the supply. Going to add a 12v line for the new relay systems to power them. Its also going to have the ground signal for the power mosfets. Have 4 power pole outputs on the panel for accesories and a 75 amp power pole to power my brick amps. The band switch for the bird line sections and power meter works very well. Going to build a simple version of this for the 6 meter amp eventually as I plan to eventually do LDMOS for HF, 70cm, and 1296. For now 432 and if I add 222 will be on the AM-6154 tube amps. I expect the next amp build will be the HF or 1296, with the 1296 being my priority. There is some things I could have done better but I am still happy with it overall. This will be powered on a 240v plug for 100a out at 13.8v. The 240 plug has the power filter kit and rated for 15amps. Power supply draws 9 amps at 240v so I have some head room. Tried to keep all the low power on one side and the high power on the other. Going to add a 10amp 240v breaker above the inlet. Overall these supplies are pretty safe with a great over power, crow bar circuit, short circuit protection and arc faults. Had a screw on the output terminal come loose and when doing some testing and the power supply would fault quick and shit down so it does work. But I would feel better with a breaker inline i also need to ground the chassis. There are some grounding prongs on the power supply that do interface with the lower panel. The challenge here is the way the panels bolt together. I will have to ground the bottom and top panel together to make it fully chassis ground. |
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Posted: 5/10/2024 9:53:44 AM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#35]
I put a description, source & STL's for the screwdriver build on printables.
https://www.printables.com/model/873376-screwdriver-style-antenna-for-portable-use-100uh-l ETA A description of the 26 uH tripod base loading coil build is on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/875179-portable-loading-coil-vertical-antenna A 46 uH version of the tripod base loading coil (not yet printed) can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/875229-portable-vertical-antenna-loading-coil-base-46uh |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 5/11/2024 4:51:53 PM EDT
[#36]
A quick antenna replacement, DB420 down, DB408 up. At least these are light, easy to manhandle without a gin pole.
 GMRS guys...    Checked over the other dishes/equipment while the ground crew serviced the generator and cleaned up the shack. Temp and breeze was a little chilly once you got up above the tree canopy. 
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Posted: 5/11/2024 11:15:52 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SnowMule: A quick antenna replacement, DB420 down, DB408 up. At least these are light, easy to manhandle without a gin pole. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-cD3RJJ9/0/L/i-cD3RJJ9-L.jpg GMRS guys... https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-wjZSrnx/0/L/i-wjZSrnx-L.jpg Checked over the other dishes/equipment while the ground crew serviced the generator and cleaned up the shack. Temp and breeze was a little chilly once you got up above the tree canopy. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-xLPVjz3/0/L/i-xLPVjz3-L.jpg Were they not supposed to drill a hole there?
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Posted: 5/13/2024 4:09:49 PM EDT
[#38]
Spent some time on my 2m harris yesterday. Decided to do something different. Relay boards are legal limit boards with chip cap for 2 meters from W6PQL. Also added a solid state switch from him. Instead of putting everything external I decided I may as well put them in the amp. Going to run the LPF after the amp. Got rid of the proprietary connectors and added a BNC input, N output and an RCA for relay and amp keying. Going to machine a delrin plate for the power and ground wire lugs. And add 1 connector for the ground signal to power the amp on.
 Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileAfter I soldered the power wire to the lug I read the note on his web page saying you need ferrites on the control cable to protect the mosfet. Well damn! So ordered a ton of ferrites from mouser for my amp projects and the 1kv SMD caps for the LPF. Going to roll my own for this one as long as I can keep the insertion loss low enough. I will need to add the Ferrites to the switch. Used RG-400 for all the connections to the relay boards. Also going to ferrite the control cable. Going inside the amp allowed me to find a 13v takeoff point to power the relay coils. And before I get burned by anyone here. Yes I know the shield to board joint are cold. My station did not have enough heat for those joints. Got my 120w iron and plan on going back over those. Wonderful thing about using teflon coax. All the shields were tinned, scored, and snapped off for clean install. The BNC and N connector were done the same. I added Teflon silver plated wire wrapped on the shield to bond to the ground lug and soldered in place. Almost done with this amp, then I can move on to converting the AM-6154 tube amps to 432mhz. |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 11:28:50 AM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#39]
Did one last iteration of a portable vertical antenna loading coil to see how it would come out. Just went for the maximum amount of potential inductance with a reasonable form factor.
This one is about 3" in diameter & a foot long (75mm x 315mm). It has the same clamp on tripod & thumb screw contact ring for adjustment as the earlier version(s). Most of the winding core is hollow to save material & print time.  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached FileIt uses a bit over 62' of 16 awg tinned copper buss wire, wrapped 80 times on 255mm of the grooved form. There is a 3/8-24 thread extension on the top and a SO239 UHF connector on the bottom. Source & files on printables: https://www.printables.com/model/881007-portable-vertical-antenna-loading-coil-123-uh |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 2:40:00 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nikdfish: Did one last iteration of a portable vertical antenna loading coil to see how it would come out. Just went for the maximum amount of potential inductance with a reasonable form factor. This one is about 3" in diameter & a foot long (75mm x 315mm). It has the same clamp on tripod & thumb screw contact ring for adjustment as the earlier version(s). Most of the winding core is hollow to save material & print time. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240515_222458090b_jpg-3215637.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240515_222642979b_jpg-3215639.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240515_222552203b_jpg-3215644.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240515_222555805b_jpg-3215645.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/128622/PXL_20240515_224649278b_jpg-3215640.JPG It uses a bit over 62' of 16 awg tinned copper buss wire, wrapped 80 times on 255mm of the grooved form. There is a 3/8-24 thread extension on the top and a SO239 UHF connector on the bottom. Source & files on printables: https://www.printables.com/model/881007-portable-vertical-antenna-loading-coil-123-uh Excellent work, If you ever need something that needs to be turned or machined let me know. I have been 3d printing for a while now. Love my printers, I bought a Mill and Lathe last year and it is nice to be able to prototype and test fit stuff by printing it. Sometimes you need a part that is stronger than a 3d print, that is where the machines come in. |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 4:35:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: nikdfish]
[#41]
Thanks! I'm thinking of pulling the first screwdriver build apart & using the motor in a new version with a gear drive for the M6 screw, moving a sliding contact rather than the coil. It would be shorter & more stable.
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Posted: 5/19/2024 3:01:00 PM EDT
[#42]
 Attached File2m Harris is done. Tried to make a LPF and it does not resemble a LPF on the VNA. Tried a bunch of different stuff. I am assuming there is some stray capacitance on this board or the board material is conducting RF. Either way off to plan B. Biggest part of this system is the 2m antenna. Got that done today and tuned. Now I just need a legal limit LNA and I will be golden.  Attached FileThis was A cushcraft 147-11 that has been extended quite a bit to a 4.5 meter boom and converted to an LFA. 9 elements total. All the elements are grounded except the main part of the driven element. Through boom construction. |
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Posted: 5/19/2024 3:08:02 PM EDT
[#43]
I am happy to say that the bead choke I made works very well. I had it connected to the X6100 and an EFHW doing FT8 for an hour with zero CM current issues. If I ran the 6100 without a choke on that antenna, I would get CMC issues within 10 minutes. A cheap, easy, and worthy project.
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Posted: 5/19/2024 3:31:39 PM EDT
[#44]
Just about ready to start printing
I plan to disassemble the moving coil screwdriver antenna & use the motor, screw and coil to build a version with a stationary coil & a moving contact. It will use a gear drive to connect screw & motor. The current design looks like this:  Attached FileStill need to do the supports, probably another iteration of a take-down tripod base for stability. |
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Posted: 5/21/2024 6:48:57 PM EDT
[#45]
I ordered this on Amazon last week and it showed up yesterday. I probably won't start the build right away as I have a lot of other stuff going on. But I will get to it eventually. Oddly enough, nothing on the packaging indicates whether it is AM or FM, or which bands it is supposed to receive. It also includes a modern IC chip as well. So I'm not sure what function the tube performs in the circuit. I hope the instruction manual has an actual schematic.
 Attached File Attached File |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 5/23/2024 2:52:46 PM EDT
[#46]
Cross posting from my cabin build thread in homestead forum as some of you might be interested to see my battery upgrade powering my ham radio. Should run my 705 for about 897 days in rx or 78 days of continuous max tx.
I’m currently at half of my solar capacity due to storms but when I’m finished the sun will recharge 0-100% in 2 full days in summer or 3 in winter.  These are 6 of 10 batteries and cells are nominally 280ah but I have two cells in parallel and then 4 pairs in series to make “a 12.8v battery” then ten batteries in parallel to get a total of 5600ah. And the cells are testing over 300ah capacity so theoretically I have a bit of leeway in there. Each battery is 8 cells and has its own BMS (one shown in low left of pic connected by a pair of black 2awg cables and also all the thin bms leads which control balancing. The positive side will be a post fuse and 2/0 red cable going back to bus bar. Each pair of cells is held together with gaffers tape. And thermal sensor will be attached with kapton tape. Each also weighs 100lbs. So yeah, half ton of lifepo4. Each cell is 12lb and then about 4 lbs in wood and cables and bms etc. I don’t want to assemble them in the box so I cut some 2x6 wood sleds to carry them. That way if I need to pull a battery for maintenance I can just slide it out. The orange bus bars are flexible and definitely not structural load bearing. Each bms has a bluetooth connector and thermal sensors. And will be attached to a bar that runs across the top which will allow me to put a sheet of electrical insulator over the top and then 2” insulation board around all of it with an rv tank heater inside. |
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Posted: 5/23/2024 4:06:01 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By taliv: Cross posting from my cabin build thread in homestead forum as some of you might be interested to see my battery upgrade powering my ham radio. Should run my 705 for about 897 days in rx or 78 days of continuous max tx. I’m currently at half of my solar capacity due to storms but when I’m finished the sun will recharge 0-100% in 2 full days in summer or 3 in winter. https://i.ibb.co/b5phhdQ/IMG-3818.jpg These are 6 of 10 batteries and cells are nominally 280ah but I have two cells in parallel and then 4 pairs in series to make “a 12.8v battery” then ten batteries in parallel to get a total of 5600ah. And the cells are testing over 300ah capacity so theoretically I have a bit of leeway in there. Each battery is 8 cells and has its own BMS (one shown in low left of pic connected by a pair of black 2awg cables and also all the thin bms leads which control balancing. The positive side will be a post fuse and 2/0 red cable going back to bus bar. Each pair of cells is held together with gaffers tape. And thermal sensor will be attached with kapton tape. Each also weighs 100lbs. So yeah, half ton of lifepo4. Each cell is 12lb and then about 4 lbs in wood and cables and bms etc. I don’t want to assemble them in the box so I cut some 2x6 wood sleds to carry them. That way if I need to pull a battery for maintenance I can just slide it out. The orange bus bars are flexible and definitely not structural load bearing. Each bms has a bluetooth connector and thermal sensors. And will be attached to a bar that runs across the top which will allow me to put a sheet of electrical insulator over the top and then 2” insulation board around all of it with an rv tank heater inside. Just curious - are you using new 'grade A' cells or something else? Any vendor(s) in particular that you would recommend? I've contemplated building my own batteries, but I'm nowhere near ready to go 'all in' on it yet. |
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Posted: 5/23/2024 4:28:19 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By targetworks: Just curious - are you using new 'grade A' cells or something else? Any vendor(s) in particular that you would recommend? I've contemplated building my own batteries, but I'm nowhere near ready to go 'all in' on it yet. He has a link in the other thread to all his components. https://www.currentconnected.com/product/sok-sk12v100-12v-solar-battery/ |
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Posted: 5/23/2024 4:31:37 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CS223: @targetworks He has a link in the other thread to all his components. https://www.currentconnected.com/product/sok-sk12v100-12v-solar-battery/ Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CS223: Originally Posted By targetworks: Just curious - are you using new 'grade A' cells or something else? Any vendor(s) in particular that you would recommend? I've contemplated building my own batteries, but I'm nowhere near ready to go 'all in' on it yet. He has a link in the other thread to all his components. https://www.currentconnected.com/product/sok-sk12v100-12v-solar-battery/ Ah, thanks... |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 5/23/2024 4:45:00 PM EDT
[Last Edit: taliv]
[#50]
Yes but actually the old batteries I’m replacing are the current connected SOK ones.
The new ones are 80x of these https://www.18650batterystore.com/products/eve-lf280k Yes, new grade A. Edit: I’m not recommending 18650batterystore. They were ok but annoying in a number of ways. I drove down to Atlanta and did local pickup. Ymmv Absolutely nothing wrong with the SOK, It’s just hard to scale past ten of them (1000ah) because my bus bar only has 12 posts and the cable is more than I want to spend. So making my own 560ah batteries is a lot cheaper than buying 100ah batteries. |
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