We are downsizing from a fifth wheel to a travel trailer.  I will need a weight distribution hitch.   I liked the Anderson Ultimate hitch for our fifth wheel.
So I looked at their WD hitch and I am wondering who uses one.

Here's a bump since my TT towing days are way behind me.  In the past I always used Reese weight distribution hitches (with sway control)

I have one.
Used it a little with satisfactory results. No problems.
I opted for a different WDH because I had two trailers and it was cheaper to buy the parts for the other system.

That was with a F150. I now own a F250 and do not use a wdh.

IM me if you are interested in it.

I've used Reece on the last 2 trailers. One trailer a 12k and one a 4K. Both dual cam sway control.
Worth it IMO.
https://www.reeseprod.com/product/26002_sway-control-dual-cam

I had a reese wd hitch for a 6K lb travel trailer years ago.   We went to a fifth wheel and did not need it and got rid of it.
I have a F350 srw now and i am not sure if i will need need one for the new camper.   6800lb weight but the length is almost 30 ft.   I may need one so the tail doesn't wag the dog if you know what I mean.

The standard rules for "Do I Need a WDH"?
Is your trailer (with tongue) longer than your tow vehicle, and/or does the weight of your trailer exceed 1/2 the tow vehicle weight?  If either or both are true, then you need a WDH.

The F350 SRW is appx 20 ft long and weighs appx 8000 lbs

Your trailer is 30 ft and probably has a dry weight of 3000 lbs (my 29 lightweight Jaco did) but (as you well know since this isn't your first camper) after you add clothing, freshwater, food, kitchen stuff, and everything else you pack in a camper, you can add 1,000 pounds pretty quickly.

YMMV

I had never heard the need for a wdh explained that way before today
Thanks.
A friend will hear this the next time he says his F150 can pull anything.

I'm interested in your experience with this and your ideas on why you are downsizing.  We are thinking that a 5th wheel would be less work than our 33' travel trailer towed behind a Ram 2500 w/ the Hemi.

We do like it, but the WD hitch is work and I have it in my head that 5th wheels tow and back in easier than a TT.

As for WD hitches, we use Equalizer (have had several) and they are great.

Biggest reason is our needs have changed and we do not need something that size.

Just about any truck can pull anything... it a matter of how far, how long, and how safely.  Unfortunately some don't live through it.

Husky Centerline here. Used it for a couple years, very satisfied. Moved up to a fifth wheel so no longer using it.

One of the things I like about a Anderson WDH is the chains.  Getting rid of the bars would be nice.

Reese here, It's a very simple and easy to use system.  I use it on a F250 mainly to damp down trailer sway as the camper has a huge surface area and towing it in a high wind sucks.

I see so much fuckery of people towing stuff that they have no business doing with the vehicle that they are using. As stated above you "can" tow pretty much anything but controlling it in adverse conditions is a different ballgame.

There are two types of people that tow, ones that have experienced trailer sway and those that haven't. If you are one that has you know the merits of using a WDH with sway control.

Systems like the REESE are cheap insurance and so easy to use it doesn't make sense not to.

@Grizz272
I had one and used it for several years.  It was used on a 2012 4Runner and a 7,500 lb car hauler (I know, I was overloaded) and I likely overworked the Anderson as well.  I originally bought it as I was very worried about tongue weight and wanted a light and simple system. My concerns about the Anderson was I had to REALLY crank the chains to get mostly leveled, even then not to my satisfaction, as well I also used a little less tongue weight % than recommended.  I feel the (over)weight of the trailer combined with the 4Runner not having as stiff a spring as a P/U truck left the Anderson unable to truly level the combination.  Having said that, I feel if I were to use it on a truck/trailer combination that didn't need as much weigh distribution, it would be fine.

Installation is fairly straightforward, probably easier and less sensitive to measurements than regular W/D hitches due to the threaded ends of the chain which allows some wiggle room on installation measurements.  If I recall I *think the chains have to be hooked up prior to letting the trailer down or the chains won't reach, plus I don't like tightening the nuts against the weight of the trailer and truck.  Hitch it up, jack up the tongue/trailer, tighten the nuts (I counted the thread to get both sides even), lower the jack, off you go.  The bottom plate that the chains are connected to has to be somewhat perpendicular to the trailer, or one side of the chains won't reach, I think you can take a mallet or block of wood and line up the chain plate with the trailer connections if you didn't back up straight.

On my older model, the friction material had a tendency to slightly squish out from between the ball and the hitch portion, but I think they fixed that issue.  I do like the sway control action, it got me out of 2 pretty violent sway incidents, luckily I also knew to hit the brakes on the trailer but a little gas on the vehicle straightening everything out.

For those that don't know how these work: Imagine 3 ice cream cones stacked inside each other, the top one with a scoop of ice cream.  The 'scoop' of ice cream is you trailer ball (the ball itself rotates with the trailer, the middle cone is friction material, the bottom cone (with the pointy end cut off) is the part that is attached to your truck (does not move).  The top cone sticks through the bottom of the hitch (bottom cone) and has a flat metal plate that has (2) 30 inch chains with threaded eye bolts on the end that get attached to your trailer, there is also a roughly 4 in long 2 in diameter, very thick walled poly bushing the threaded chain connector asses through.  When attached to the trailer, you are smashing this bushing while tightening the chain.  The chain replaces standard W/D bars, the poly bushings give it the spring (like bars).  After I wrote all that, here is a link that shows it much better than my explanation.

https://andersenhitches.com/product/weight-distribution-hitch/

While turning, the top cone (and bottom plate) turn with the trailer, since it's riding in another non moving cone of friction material, that friction is your anti-sway portion.  The more you tighten the chains, the more pressure you are exerting, the more friction and W/D.  If I recall, Anderson stated that in a sway episode, the weight transfer creates even more friction, this slowing the sway.  The design causes resistance with both directions of a sway (the sway and the return to center), standard bars that are spring loaded, also have resistance to sway as they are pre-loaded to keep the trailer in a neutral position, but once a sway starts, you are loading up spring tension that wants to push back possibly overcorrecting the sway and back and forth.

Probably more than you want to know, if you need anything else just @ me and I'll do my best.  I think this is perfect for those that want a light, simple system. Unless it's my small utility, I'll never run w/o a sway and W/D system, it's cheap insurance so why not.

Having said all that, I now own a Blue Ox Swaypro set up.  It seems to be rated more or less the same as the Equalizer (2 of the best) without getting into $1,000+ systems.  One thing I like about the Swaypro is adjustability.  If you really load up your trailer, tighten the chain and extra link, traveling lighter? One less link.  Had I known my issues with the Anderson were of my own making I would have stuck with that.

I decided to go with a blue ox wdh. for three  reasons
1.The rv dealer went through 4 parts catalog, then on line, and made a bunch of phone calls and could not find one or know when they did find one there was no idea when they could get it.
2. the dealer has the blue ox in stock
3 the blue ox was  cheaper.

@Grizz272
Thanks for the follow up, I was wondering which way you went, you'll be happy.  One nice thing I like about the Blue Ox is the arms have dimples indicating the amount of weight they will hold.  I'm not certain which model you bought, but on mine, up near where they insert into the ball/head.  There is a series of dimples1,2,3,4, or maybe none.  If you think you need a bit more W/D effect, get the next size stronger bars (I did). I marked my chains so I know when they are equal side to side without counting.  And... if you've not done this before, it's easiest to lift the truck and trailer with the trailer jack a bit to take some weight off, and you might have to do a few links on the left, then a few on the right, then left and right again. Also.... instead of using that flat wrench BO gives you, go to Home Depot (or wherever) and get a real box end wrench, better leverage, more secure.  Once I was done adjusting mine, I had about 1 1/2 links showing between the arm and the bracket.
https://www.etrailer.com/question-384178.html

Bought one still have it and don't use it since I upgraded to 5th wheel. I liked it well enough. Easy to hook up and easy to adjust. Lightweight and easy to handle and store. You can easily backup with it under full tension.

I bought the 2.5 inch shank with the I think 6inch universal frame clamps. So no need to bolt through or drill.

It's just sitting in the lower storage of my 5th wheel. Has been since December 2019

Looks like Blue OX now supplies a tire iron type wrench for hook up and take down.  
The thing I am curious about is if the electric tongue jack wears out earlier from lifting both  the truck and trailer at each hook up and tear down.