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Posted: 3/18/2015 5:35:14 PM EDT
OK my son recently totaled one of the vehicles on his way to work (after school) so now we need to replace it. Since he does most of the driving on this vehicle I've given him some input. This is our combined requirements and wish lists:
Mileage (more is better), a minimum of 18MPG highway. Truck is preferred (though he like my Cherokee) Extended cab for truck is preferred 4WD is HIGHLY preferred (but not required), not for hard core off-roading - but for bad weather and occasional light off-roading/camping. Easy to work on, and parts that are available locally (i.e. Advanced Auto or NAPA). 2000 or newer is preferred I'm thinking a manual transmission so the boy can learn how to use one, though if we get an automatic the Wife-Unit could drive the vehicle if her Urban Assault Van is ever in the shop. Miles on odometer of 100,000 or less (preferably less) Spending no more than $6100 on the vehicle (plus tax & tags) Vehicles we've looked at (in order of preference)
Ok is there anything else I should look at? Any notes or suggestions on the above vehicles? Any Questions? Thanks for your help! |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 5:38:53 PM EDT
[#1]
Ford F150 with 4.6. The 4.6 is a worthless truck engine, but it gets 1-4 mpg better than the 5.4.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 5:42:59 PM EDT
[#2]
First, you will not get a sub 100k mile (real) truck with your requirements worth a shit.
This is simple! This truck meets all your requirements and more. 04-06 Chevy Silverado Crew cab short bed or GME sierra Crew cab short bed. Try and find a 1500HD model for the stonger 6.0 and 4L80 trans, Its light years better than the standard 1500. 4wd, 5.3 V8. Parts availability and pull out engines are cheaper than hookers. Seriously. 300$ for a ENTIRE 150k mile engine. They are know to go 250k+ with ZERO problems. These engines are the best modern combustion engines available, nuthing else even remotly comes close to the reliability and cost factor when needing to repair a engine. Tons of room. 
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Posted: 3/18/2015 5:43:25 PM EDT
[#3]
Craziest vehicle I've seen so far was a nice Black CRV, 2005 (10 years old) with 250,000 miles - and the guy wanted $6500 for it.
The others haven't been quite so bad, but close enough. Oh he hit the back of a Suburban with a 2005 Kia Amanti at 10-15mph. Tiny scratch on the bumper of the suburban, and since the Kia's bumper was lower than the SUV - the grill, radiator, hood, and fenders got crunched.  To bad is was a very comfortable vehicle.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 6:00:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ford F150 with 4.6. The 4.6 is a worthless truck engine, but it gets 1-4 mpg better than the 5.4. Funny thing is the only Ford Trucks I can find with less than 100K miles are from the mid 80s, 3 of them "locally" (meaning within 100-150 miles)? All others are cheap enough but with high mileage and mostly from the mid to late 90s (a couple from the early 2000s). Perhaps I should be looking in other areas (other than the DC-Baltimore area)? |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 6:13:09 PM EDT
[#5]
I'd go Tacoma or 4Runner, but low miles and good condition will be tough to find given the desired price point. These are very reliable vehicles and reasonably tough. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 6:20:30 PM EDT
[#6]
Beware low priced Jeeps. Too many have had the suspension ruined or
frame damaged by amateur off-roaders and bargain basement lift kits. I've yet to see any jeep with both less than 100k miles and under $8k that isn't bent, torqued or broken from this trailer park mechanic crap. Finding something not total trash for under 6k is getting harder and harder as people think their beat to hell or ghetto'd up vehicles should be worth as much as a new one. I'd suggest looking more at the Ford Ranger. They're light enough to not suffer badly from 2wd, there are plenty of them in junk yards to get cheap and good parts from (most are due to kids crashing them) and they are one of the easier Fords to work on in my experience. Nissan's are nice looking, but the moment anything goes wrong (and it will) the price of repairs/parts will make your head spin. CUCVs are not bad, and maintenance wise they're the easiest on your list to work on, but getting the parts is tricky unless you get the maintenance manuals that give the NSN part numbers, which can be converted to normal civi part numbers for finding replacements. The fuel mileage is pretty abysmal due to the big Detroit Diesel engines, and be aware that some CUCVs have limiters installed that lock the trucks below 60. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 7:02:36 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Beware low priced Jeeps. Too many have had the suspension ruined or frame damaged by amateur off-roaders and bargain basement lift kits. I've yet to see any jeep with both less than 100k miles and under $8k that isn't bent, torqued or broken from this trailer park mechanic crap. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Beware low priced Jeeps. Too many have had the suspension ruined or frame damaged by amateur off-roaders and bargain basement lift kits. I've yet to see any jeep with both less than 100k miles and under $8k that isn't bent, torqued or broken from this trailer park mechanic crap. I've seen several in this area that were fine, it's mostly the Wranglers I worry about. The Liberty's pricing is low enough I'm concerned. Finding something not total trash for under 6k is getting harder and harder as people think their beat to hell or ghetto'd up vehicles should be worth as much as a new one.
Amen I'd suggest looking more at the Ford Ranger We've been looking, and found a couple that look promising. Though as you pointed out not 4WD. Nissan's are nice looking, but the moment anything goes wrong (and it will) the price of repairs/parts will make your head spin. Nissan Frontiers are fairly sturdy vehicles. I've also got a friend that was a factory trained Nissan mechanic should things go bad. Prices are much more reasonable than say the Tacoma's. I'm not sold on the parts availability yet. Thanks for your insights! |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 7:54:59 PM EDT
[#8]
Used Jeep Cherokee's should always be avoided. The term "money pit" comes to mind.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 7:56:12 PM EDT
[#9]
GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 quad cab.
Awesome trucks with very reliable track records. easy to wrench on. easily go 200k if proper maintenance intervals are adhered to. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 8:12:58 PM EDT
[#10]
In my experience, thte Nissan frontier doesn't make your criteria. look long and hard at the gas consumption. Most of these are utter thirsty pigs....
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Posted: 3/18/2015 8:40:51 PM EDT
[#11]
I am a Ford guy and I cant believe I am saying this...but for your price range, how about a Nissan Xterra. You can get a 4x4 in that price range...just look on Ebay or Autotrader.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 8:49:21 PM EDT
[#12]
I'm partial to Subaru since I work for a Subaru dealership. I'm really digging AWD....now, you aren't getting the cargo capacity compared to a truck, but MPG wise you will thank yourself over the life of the vehicle.
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Posted: 3/18/2015 9:27:04 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
First, you will not get a sub 100k mile (real) truck with your requirements worth a shit. This is simple! This truck meets all your requirements and more. 04-06 Chevy Silverado Crew cab short bed or GME sierra Crew cab short bed. Try and find a 1500HD model for the stonger 6.0 and 4L80 trans, Its light years better than the standard 1500. 4wd, 5.3 V8. Parts availability and pull out engines are cheaper than hookers. Seriously. 300$ for a ENTIRE 150k mile engine. They are know to go 250k+ with ZERO problems. These engines are the best modern combustion engines available, nuthing else even remotly comes close to the reliability and cost factor when needing to repair a engine. Tons of room. http://i803.photobucket.com/albums/yy319/ezdaar/06%20Silverado/83CF7E97-EF9B-488F-9E98-DC40CCEC62F7_zpsirhav9ll.jpg I would go with this. Fuel mileage may not quite get 18 but overall upkeep costs would more than make up for it. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 9:51:33 PM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
OK my son recently totaled one of the vehicles on his way to work (after school) so now we need to replace it. Since he does most of the driving on this vehicle I've given him some input. This is our combined requirements and wish lists: Mileage (more is better), a minimum of 18MPG highway. Truck is preferred (though he like my Cherokee) Extended cab for truck is preferred 4WD is HIGHLY preferred (but not required), not for hard core off-roading - but for bad weather and occasional light off-roading/camping. Easy to work on, and parts that are available locally (i.e. Advanced Auto or NAPA). 2000 or newer is preferred I'm thinking a manual transmission so the boy can learn how to use one, though if we get an automatic the Wife-Unit could drive the vehicle if her Urban Assault Van is ever in the shop. I Miles on odometer of 100,000 or less (preferably less) Spending no more than $6100 on the vehicle (plus tax & tags) Vehicles we've looked at (in order of preference)
Ok is there anything else I should look at? Any notes or suggestions on the above vehicles? Any Questions? Thanks for your help! I have owned all but one on your list and the only 1 thats gonna give you what you want is a Tacoma 2.7L. Don't be fooled by the gas milage claims of some. Tacoma w/ 150-200k is often better than others with lower milage/much better manufacturing procedures. Find an un abused unmodded one and drive to 300k and only change timing chain. You know that 4.0 is gonna suck some gas. My brothers gets 14.7 mpg in his ranger it has about 100k on it he has had it for 4-5 years. Wrangler milage never as good as expected. It goes on....I just sold a 1999 Taco and it was more Mechanically sound than my 2006 Sierra with 1/2 the miles. I'm heading back to Toyota for the long haul ASAP. They may cost more, but will also resell WAY better than anything and go anywhere. If you don't have to finance or buy immediately just look around for a few weeks, I drove 100 miles to go pickup my last one. At 200k I got busy at work and went 5k without changing oil.....Was not a drop low. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 10:05:55 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have owned all but one on your list and the only 1 thats gonna give you what you want is a Tacoma 2.7L. Don't be fooled by the gas milage claims of some. Tacoma w/ 150-200k is often better than others with lower milage/much better manufacturing procedures. Find an un abused unmodded one and drive to 300k and only change timing chain. You know that 4.0 is gonna suck some gas. My brothers gets 14.7 mpg in his ranger it has about 100k on it he has had it for 4-5 years. Wrangler milage never as good as expected. It goes on....I just sold a 1999 Taco and it was more Mechanically sound than my 2006 Sierra with 1/2 the miles. I'm heading back to Toyota for the long haul ASAP. They may cost more, but will also resell WAY better than anything and go anywhere. If you don't have to finance or buy immediately just look around for a few weeks, I drove 100 miles to go pickup my last one. At 200k I got busy at work and went 5k without changing oil.....Was not a drop low. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
OK my son recently totaled one of the vehicles on his way to work (after school) so now we need to replace it. Since he does most of the driving on this vehicle I've given him some input. This is our combined requirements and wish lists: Mileage (more is better), a minimum of 18MPG highway. Truck is preferred (though he like my Cherokee) Extended cab for truck is preferred 4WD is HIGHLY preferred (but not required), not for hard core off-roading - but for bad weather and occasional light off-roading/camping. Easy to work on, and parts that are available locally (i.e. Advanced Auto or NAPA). 2000 or newer is preferred I'm thinking a manual transmission so the boy can learn how to use one, though if we get an automatic the Wife-Unit could drive the vehicle if her Urban Assault Van is ever in the shop. I Miles on odometer of 100,000 or less (preferably less) Spending no more than $6100 on the vehicle (plus tax & tags) Vehicles we've looked at (in order of preference)
Ok is there anything else I should look at? Any notes or suggestions on the above vehicles? Any Questions? Thanks for your help! I have owned all but one on your list and the only 1 thats gonna give you what you want is a Tacoma 2.7L. Don't be fooled by the gas milage claims of some. Tacoma w/ 150-200k is often better than others with lower milage/much better manufacturing procedures. Find an un abused unmodded one and drive to 300k and only change timing chain. You know that 4.0 is gonna suck some gas. My brothers gets 14.7 mpg in his ranger it has about 100k on it he has had it for 4-5 years. Wrangler milage never as good as expected. It goes on....I just sold a 1999 Taco and it was more Mechanically sound than my 2006 Sierra with 1/2 the miles. I'm heading back to Toyota for the long haul ASAP. They may cost more, but will also resell WAY better than anything and go anywhere. If you don't have to finance or buy immediately just look around for a few weeks, I drove 100 miles to go pickup my last one. At 200k I got busy at work and went 5k without changing oil.....Was not a drop low. I would have to agree for the most part. Though, IMO the only one on your list that is going to get consistently 18mpg or better with "normal" driving is that Honda CRV. If you drive like your trying to go anywhere every one of those vehicles on your list are 14~16mpg rigs. I am a Jeep guy for the most part but none of the older TJ,XJ, or ZJ will push 18mpg unless you don't push the gas pedal. Most also require major wheel bearing, brakes, and suspension overhauls around 150k miles or so. Parts are cheap and they are easy to work on though. Motors are good for 200K, but most of the underside is not. Toyota and Nissan are going to probably be your best bet. Honda CRV if you can find one in that price range. If you don't live in a rust zone I would suggest any decent ford or chevy. However, in my AO any 10 year old ford or chevy truck, that has been driving during the winter, is going to be a complete rust bucket. Every brake line gas line and cable will need replacement at the 8~10 year mark. I guess that's true for most vehicles in my AO. Oh well. Good cheap used vehicles are getting harder to find. I think its a sign of inflation. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 10:26:55 PM EDT
[#16]
I can only speak to Jeeps and Hondas, I'm a 6-time Jeep owner (CJ, TJ, '98GC and '08 GC diesel and a '12 JKU, still have the last two.)
Trading in my '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.0L is my single biggest automotive regret. IMO it's the last "real" off-road GC model, and it's pretty easy to self maintain any of the 4.0L Jeep engines, which is why I'd also vote on that Wrangler you found. Downside is on the Wrangler you will need to maintain it, and since it's got a higher CG the son is going to have to learn to be careful driving/cornering (my daughter was interested in a Wrangler for her first car and I said no for that reason, but it sounds like your son has some experience.) Jeep Libertys are around cheap because they suck. The Grand Cherokee is probably the safest of the Jeeps you listed in an accident. I know the Honda prices are crazy but the cars just don't die. I ended up getting my daughter a '99 Accord at nearly $5K at 180K miles, letting her learn to drive and break everything that's going to break, and then dropped in a fresh engine. (Super low insuance costs, and no appreciable taxes on a car that will likely go another 100K+ miles easily.) If it were my kid, I think I'd vote the Grand Cherokee and then Wrangler, mostly due to east of maintenance on the Wrangler. If you can score a Tacoma, though, do that. it's probably where I will go since the Jeeps are so citified now ETA: I forgot to mention milage, the GC was right at 21 MPG when driven normally. Wrangler was about 18-19 MPG. |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 10:35:50 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Used Jeep Cherokee's should always be avoided. The term "money pit" comes to mind. I've owned two, they both have been extremely low maintenance vehicles. That's what I'm hoping about the GCs with the 4.0 |
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Posted: 3/18/2015 10:38:18 PM EDT
[#18]
I have a year 2000 gold colored jeep grand cherokee limited that has 95,000 miles, no rust, 4wd, leather interior, and a 4.7l v8 engine that runs like new. I am looking to sell it for $6000 firm. I could email you pictures if you are interested. The only things needing work is the cd player needs replacing and the sunroof has a leak that needs repairing. I am selling it because I have a 69 jeepster commando that I now use for daily driving. I own a hotel in upstate ny so if you came up to look/purchase your accommodation would be taken care of. It has a new battery, 4 new tires, and was just serviced.
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Posted: 3/19/2015 1:13:34 AM EDT
[#19]
i have a 2005 Nissan Frontier LE CC 4wd. its been a pretty good truck with some issues. nothing real serious but more of a couple of annoyances than anything. the 2000-2004 Frontiers are ok, but under powered. my 05 with the 4.0 has more power and is faster than even the 04 supercharged version. like the Toyota, you wont find a 05+ in your price range with your requirements and i personally wouldnt have an 04 or older.
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Posted: 3/19/2015 8:32:16 AM EDT
[#20]
Jeep liberty has window problems
Go drive through a full parking lot looking for tapped up windows. (my sister has one) |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 8:49:50 AM EDT
[#21]
2000-2004 Tacoma w 2.7l 4cyl meets all req. except mabe price. its for your son right? Please for his sake no CRV. I really like my Jeeps, even the Cherokee I had but damn, worked on them more than everything else put together. But they can be had cheaper especially the cherokee. A 4Runner can get you into a 'yota cheaper, but is heavier and most are the 6cyl. Also look at a "Prerunner" tacoma its a 2wd on a 4x4 suspension, some have the factory locking real diff. (e-lock) and will go pretty good.
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Posted: 3/19/2015 9:27:24 AM EDT
[#22]
I don't know how "handy" you are, but skip twin cam foreign engines that are squeezed into a small suv...everything will be expensive to repair and may require the dealer $$$$.
Chevy or Ford pickup. I like Chevy...parts are reasonable and it's easy enough to fix yourself. Fords had the spark plug issues, not sure how relevant that is, but probably a pain. When your dealing with a new driver you want to survive first, followed by repair expense...kick him a couple bucks for fuel and get a full size truck. Forget a Jeep wrangler types. I've had them...not worth the risk. Nissan is ok, but the mileage is 15-16 w 4.0L. Timing chain tensioner repair/issue is $1400 Loosen up the "year" and focus on mileage. Older may have issues pop up, but they are usually cheaper to resolve and the parts are cheaper. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 11:58:44 AM EDT
[#23]
Go to govdeals.com search for Durango in a 400 mile radius(or as far as you are willing to drive). You'll find some good deals for under $6k for a 2004 - 2008, maybe newer. I'm waiting for a 2007 for around $3K but Durangos are rare in my region. Look for a municipality that does great maintenance and upkeep. A university owned vehicle is usually well cared for. I bought one from a ski town, the city replaced anything that looked funny or dusty. Nothing made it long enough to wear out. Yes there are also a lot of abused beat to hell vehicles.
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Posted: 3/19/2015 12:08:21 PM EDT
[#24]
Just FYI, here in MD there are quite a few 2001-2004 2.7L 4wd Tacomas for $6k or less.
Here is a 1998 2.7/4WD/Manual with 178k for $5250 http://smd.craigslist.org/cto/4932647135.html 1998 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab V6 4WD w/ 140202 miles - $5900 http://baltimore.craigslist.org/ctd/4938419505.html |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 12:47:47 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Jeep liberty has window problems I appreciate the heads up. Thanks. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 12:50:19 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just FYI, here in MD there are quite a few 2001-2004 2.7L 4wd Tacomas for $6k or less. Here is a 1998 2.7/4WD/Manual with 178k for $5250 http://smd.craigslist.org/cto/4932647135.html 1998 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab V6 4WD w/ 140202 miles - $5900 http://baltimore.craigslist.org/ctd/4938419505.html It's the miles I'm also concerned about. When do we need to start replacing timing chains/belts, water pumps, and other similar parts? I don't mind spending the $5900 - IF I won't be spending another $500 in 6 months for some worn parts and Glen Burnie is close... |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 1:10:35 PM EDT
[#27]
With that price point you will be lucky to find anything in the 4x4 category from what I have seen. A few thousand more will get you into a decent Chevy/Ford/Dodge with less that 150k and maybe some rust issues and needing some work.
Toyota , forget that you will not find a decent truck or 4 runner for under $12k thats in decent shape. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 1:14:52 PM EDT
[#28]
This was the car my son was driving:
1995 Kia Amanti with 98K miles. It was even driven by the proverbial little old lady; his grandmother. Who died days after giving him the car. 
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Posted: 3/19/2015 1:32:54 PM EDT
[#29]
OP: Safety.
You literally can't put a price on your kid's safety on the road. Have them drive a boat of a car. If you hare handy, cars/trucks from the 90's are solid, reliable, cheap to fix, and relatively easy to fix yourself. The ford modular engines easily sail past 200k miles, especially in a car. My mother is about to turn 300k on a 98 lincoln with the 4.6 Pay the extra in gas for a full frame car or truck. Forget the small SUVs. I quit driving my Grand Cherokee because of safety. In a crash, we will fare much better in the F250. I refuse to put my kids in the jeep unless necessary. Damn thing is a unibody! |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 1:47:17 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's the miles I'm also concerned about. When do we need to start replacing timing chains/belts, water pumps, and other similar parts? I don't mind spending the $5900 - IF I won't be spending another $500 in 6 months for some worn parts and Glen Burnie is close... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just FYI, here in MD there are quite a few 2001-2004 2.7L 4wd Tacomas for $6k or less. Here is a 1998 2.7/4WD/Manual with 178k for $5250 http://smd.craigslist.org/cto/4932647135.html 1998 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab V6 4WD w/ 140202 miles - $5900 http://baltimore.craigslist.org/ctd/4938419505.html It's the miles I'm also concerned about. When do we need to start replacing timing chains/belts, water pumps, and other similar parts? I don't mind spending the $5900 - IF I won't be spending another $500 in 6 months for some worn parts and Glen Burnie is close... I'd be happy to check it out for you. My tacoma has 250k on it now. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 2:12:39 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd be happy to check it out for you. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'd be happy to check it out for you. Thank you! That's quite generous. I'll take you up on that offer if it's available in a week when the insurance check arrives. My tacoma has 250k on it now. Is that common for Tacomas? I know the Jeep 4.0 has a rep for those kind of miles (it's one reason why I drive one). ETA: Lookup Tacomas for that year on CarComplaints, they look pretty good. Crash test results are better than the Liberty. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 2:20:16 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP: Safety. You literally can't put a price on your kid's safety on the road. Have them drive a boat of a car. If you hare handy, cars/trucks from the 90's are solid, reliable, cheap to fix, and relatively easy to fix yourself. The ford modular engines easily sail past 200k miles, especially in a car. My mother is about to turn 300k on a 98 lincoln with the 4.6 Pay the extra in gas for a full frame car or truck. Forget the small SUVs. I quit driving my Grand Cherokee because of safety. In a crash, we will fare much better in the F250. I refuse to put my kids in the jeep unless necessary. Damn thing is a unibody! Full frames are no more 'safe' than unibodies. I've been in 2 head on collisions in unibodies. While the car's didn't survive, I walked away with no issues. But I agree with your primary sentiment! So I'll start looking at the insurance safety ratings of the vehicles as well. My brother found a nice ex Police Ford Crown Vic '08 with 68K miles. Big car, fuel mileage meets criteria, but how was it abused to be let go so early? That and teenager with a V8 makes me pause (I was a teen with a V8 once, I lived but probably not the best idea  ).
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Posted: 3/19/2015 3:58:24 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OP: Safety. You literally can't put a price on your kid's safety on the road. Have them drive a boat of a car. If you hare handy, cars/trucks from the 90's are solid, reliable, cheap to fix, and relatively easy to fix yourself. The ford modular engines easily sail past 200k miles, especially in a car. My mother is about to turn 300k on a 98 lincoln with the 4.6 Pay the extra in gas for a full frame car or truck. Forget the small SUVs. I quit driving my Grand Cherokee because of safety. In a crash, we will fare much better in the F250. I refuse to put my kids in the jeep unless necessary. Damn thing is a unibody! This: "You literally can't put a price on your kid's safety on the road. Have them drive a boat of a car." And anyone else you care about... Why don't you consider a large SUV? We can drive anything and use SUV's, and a small or larger trailer when we need to transport something large. The taxes on the single axle trailer are abt $36/yr IIRC from looking the other day. I like Ford SUV's [because I'm invested in decades of experience with them from a service standpoint] they are cheap to keep running, rarely break, parts are all over, I don't give a rat's ass [sorry Rat  about tacticool off-roading non-sense, altho I'm probably on muddy and dirt roads, and need 4WD as much as most anyone for practical reasons, and want something that is just common sense, works and is safe.
Fuel costs are more than the shoe-boxes, especially since it's been adulterated with alcohol, however I consider that a workable tradeoff. I certainly don't start out looking for a vehicle, or property, or machine, etc, and set an artificial price point right off, until I've done some research to learn the lay of the land. Then when deals appear, I'm prepared to make an informed decision. When the right deal appears, I'm not hamstrung to some artificial number and can move up if necessary to get what might be best for me and let the Seller win a little too. SO and I share an SUV that just turned 136,000 miles and is ~14 YO --daily. We have another SUV, same yr and model, with lower mileage and rarely drive it, and a 2009 SUV [same model, 30,000 miles] for trips and pulling the Stealth trailer. As well as a old Bronco in original showroom condx with very low mileage that I bought new in CA, that I'm scared to take on the road for fear some illegal or whatever will total it and I'll get a few bucks for the experience. 
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Posted: 3/19/2015 4:16:29 PM EDT
[#34]
Full frames are no more 'safe' than unibodies. There's a bit to this debate, but suffice it to say, full-frame vehicle's like pickups sit higher and usually don't sustain the cabin crush that vehicles sitting 7" off the ground do. The "safe" unibody types are either nanny vans or larger SUV's with a lot of sheetmetal. The fatals I've been to lately were rear-end accidents involving small imported vehicles and American extended cab pickups. The people in the imports died, the trucks occupants were fine. When the back seat is pressing the front seats forward, you're dead. Granted, this is a very specific type of accident, but indicative of what driving a gas sipper will do. If you take a hit in a small well-engineered vehicle, it will probably be safe, but will be destroyed. A low to medium impact in a full-frame vehicle "may" be still even be driveable. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 4:24:02 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There's a bit to this debate, but suffice it to say, full-frame vehicle's like pickups sit higher and usually don't sustain the cabin crush that vehicles sitting 7" off the ground do. The "safe" unibody types are either nanny vans or larger SUV's with a lot of sheetmetal. The fatals I've been to lately were rear-end accidents involving small imported vehicles and American extended cab pickups. The people in the imports died, the trucks occupants were fine. When the back seat is pressing the front seats forward, you're dead. Granted, this is a very specific type of accident, but indicative of what driving a gas sipper will do. If you take a hit in a small well-engineered vehicle, it will probably be safe, but will be destroyed. A low to medium impact in a full-frame vehicle "may" be still even be driveable. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Full frames are no more 'safe' than unibodies. There's a bit to this debate, but suffice it to say, full-frame vehicle's like pickups sit higher and usually don't sustain the cabin crush that vehicles sitting 7" off the ground do. The "safe" unibody types are either nanny vans or larger SUV's with a lot of sheetmetal. The fatals I've been to lately were rear-end accidents involving small imported vehicles and American extended cab pickups. The people in the imports died, the trucks occupants were fine. When the back seat is pressing the front seats forward, you're dead. Granted, this is a very specific type of accident, but indicative of what driving a gas sipper will do. If you take a hit in a small well-engineered vehicle, it will probably be safe, but will be destroyed. A low to medium impact in a full-frame vehicle "may" be still even be driveable. A friend who can drive what he wants, who owned one of the dealerships near here until he sold it to a relative, put his wife in a box car, she got hit and as a result destroyed her health with all the attendant issues of a life ruining situation for them to deal with. Happened yrs ago and IMO wasn't worth it. Do you think he learned anything... Nope! Folks are stupid. Friend would prolly have been selling insurance or working a trade if Daddy hadn't left the dealership to him. Over the years I've been in a couple accidents, and thankfully the big Ford trucks saved me, and could be driven away. Not so much for the 'opponent' 
Almost every one [except for a Hispanic lady who rear ended me just a little] were towed. Once got run off the road in a Corvette by a newspaper boy driving on the wrong side of the road and crashed it a bit, was OK too. I wouldn't dream of putting my SO in anything less than 5 or 6000 pounds... |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 4:50:34 PM EDT
[#36]
How about Ford Explorers?
They seem like a bigger SUV, got 4x4, safety ratings are decent. If they are ok- what years should I look for - or better yet what years should I avoid? Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 4:55:22 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A friend who can drive what he wants, who owned one of the dealerships near here until he sold it to a relative, put his wife in a box car, she got hit and as a result destroyed her health with all the attendant issues of a life ruining situation for them to deal with. Happened yrs ago and IMO wasn't worth it. Do you think he learned anything... Nope! Folks are stupid. Friend would prolly have been selling insurance or working a trade if Daddy hadn't left the dealership to him. Over the years I've been in a couple accidents, and thankfully the big Ford trucks saved me, and could be driven away. Not so much for the 'opponent' Almost every one [except for a Hispanic lady who rear ended me just a little] were towed. Once got run off the road in a Corvette by a newspaper boy driving on the wrong side of the road and crashed it a bit, was OK too. I wouldn't dream of putting my SO in anything less than 5 or 6000 pounds... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Full frames are no more 'safe' than unibodies. There's a bit to this debate, but suffice it to say, full-frame vehicle's like pickups sit higher and usually don't sustain the cabin crush that vehicles sitting 7" off the ground do. The "safe" unibody types are either nanny vans or larger SUV's with a lot of sheetmetal. The fatals I've been to lately were rear-end accidents involving small imported vehicles and American extended cab pickups. The people in the imports died, the trucks occupants were fine. When the back seat is pressing the front seats forward, you're dead. Granted, this is a very specific type of accident, but indicative of what driving a gas sipper will do. If you take a hit in a small well-engineered vehicle, it will probably be safe, but will be destroyed. A low to medium impact in a full-frame vehicle "may" be still even be driveable. A friend who can drive what he wants, who owned one of the dealerships near here until he sold it to a relative, put his wife in a box car, she got hit and as a result destroyed her health with all the attendant issues of a life ruining situation for them to deal with. Happened yrs ago and IMO wasn't worth it. Do you think he learned anything... Nope! Folks are stupid. Friend would prolly have been selling insurance or working a trade if Daddy hadn't left the dealership to him. Over the years I've been in a couple accidents, and thankfully the big Ford trucks saved me, and could be driven away. Not so much for the 'opponent' Almost every one [except for a Hispanic lady who rear ended me just a little] were towed. Once got run off the road in a Corvette by a newspaper boy driving on the wrong side of the road and crashed it a bit, was OK too. I wouldn't dream of putting my SO in anything less than 5 or 6000 pounds... I have family that used to be an EMT. She responded to a lot of wrecks. She never had life threatening injuries from folks in pickup trucks, but she lost a few that were in cars. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 4:57:19 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: How about Ford Explorers? They seem like a bigger SUV, got 4x4, safety ratings are decent. If they are ok- what years should I look for - or better yet what years should I avoid? Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far. ETA: I think they went to the new body style ranger in about 2003 ish? |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 5:00:20 PM EDT
[#39]
Ok most problematic vehicles
2002, 2003, and 2004 Ford Explorer (in the top 4)
Add the 2005 and 2006 to the top 20. So look at 2001 and older? |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 5:02:56 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The older ones (1996 type body) were tippy, IMHO. Quote HistoryQuoted:
The older ones (1996 type body) were tippy, IMHO. Wasn't that due to the tires used at the time? Change tires and it would be ok? . I would go full expedition. At least you have a half ton chassis. Holy fuel guzzling Batman! ETA: I think they went to the new body style ranger in about 2003 ish? From my last 20 minutes of research it would be 2002 or 2003 - as there was a sudden upsurge in reported problems (which usually accompanies a new model). |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 5:16:45 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Wasn't that due to the tires used at the time? Change tires and it would be ok? Kind of. They had to deflate the tires so they pass anti-roll tests, and tires would blow out. Something like 23 pounds on the door jamb or something like that. When you fully inflate the tires to tire specs, the vehicle is a bit tippy. Fine for an experienced driver, but any over-steer would easily roll it. Never let the kids drive the explorer when it was around the farm. We had a 96, FYI Holy fuel guzzling Batman! The explorer got about 21, expedition with the 4.6 get about 18. From my last 20 minutes of research it would be 2002 or 2003 - as there was a sudden upsurge in reported problems (which usually accompanies a new model). Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: The older ones (1996 type body) were tippy, IMHO. Wasn't that due to the tires used at the time? Change tires and it would be ok? Kind of. They had to deflate the tires so they pass anti-roll tests, and tires would blow out. Something like 23 pounds on the door jamb or something like that. When you fully inflate the tires to tire specs, the vehicle is a bit tippy. Fine for an experienced driver, but any over-steer would easily roll it. Never let the kids drive the explorer when it was around the farm. We had a 96, FYI . I would go full expedition. At least you have a half ton chassis. Holy fuel guzzling Batman! The explorer got about 21, expedition with the 4.6 get about 18. ETA: I think they went to the new body style ranger in about 2003 ish? From my last 20 minutes of research it would be 2002 or 2003 - as there was a sudden upsurge in reported problems (which usually accompanies a new model). They also don't seem to hold up well in the high miles. Around here, a 1996 explorer brings about 1k in nice shape, while an expedition of the same year/condition brings about 3. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 5:27:13 PM EDT
[#42]
OP: I would consider finding a 1992 to 1996 F150 extended cab short box 4x4 (if possible). Get the 4.9 I6 engine (they commonly had the standard transmission too).
Change out the air filter to a K&N, put in a performance coil, wires, and plugs. Advance the timing a bit and run medium grade fuel. If you are super handy, put in a camshaft. Minimize the crap you keep in the truck. I would get 20-22 mpg out of that exact setup. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 6:58:07 PM EDT
[#43]
Obviously I like my Tacoma but I had an F150 before it and it was super reliable. Gas mileage sucked but most trucks do. Had chevy s-10's that were great too.
There are good and bad makes out there. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 7:30:05 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wasn't that due to the tires used at the time? Change tires and it would be ok? Holy fuel guzzling Batman! From my last 20 minutes of research it would be 2002 or 2003 - as there was a sudden upsurge in reported problems (which usually accompanies a new model). Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The older ones (1996 type body) were tippy, IMHO. Wasn't that due to the tires used at the time? Change tires and it would be ok? . I would go full expedition. At least you have a half ton chassis. Holy fuel guzzling Batman! ETA: I think they went to the new body style ranger in about 2003 ish? From my last 20 minutes of research it would be 2002 or 2003 - as there was a sudden upsurge in reported problems (which usually accompanies a new model). I believe the body change was in 1998. New engines around 2002. I had a 2004, but it was a race truck. Decent. Weak transmission. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 7:30:12 PM EDT
[#45]
Get a higher mileage Tacoma. My last one a 1999 had 200k on it and the only repair ever done to it was brakes and tires. It rusted through and Toyota bought it from me so I'd check the frame before buying.
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Posted: 3/19/2015 7:40:54 PM EDT
[#46]
Geo Tracker / Suzuki Sidekick, or Suzuki Vitara, or Ford Ranger, or old Chevy S10
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Posted: 3/19/2015 10:00:50 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Geo Tracker / Suzuki Sidekick, or Suzuki Vitara, or Ford Ranger, or old Chevy S10 What? Nooooooooooooo I don't want to get killed if the other guy has a yugo. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 10:06:44 PM EDT
[#48]
We hear so many folks getting all worked up over fuel costs,
Yet they are happy to have their A-Hole ripped larger, over and over again, when they go to get brakes replaced, or other simple work done. These same folks ---using a little common sense, investing in some tools, and showing some initiative... Could save far more than the extra cost of fuel used for driving a larger vehicle, by doing some simple work instead of spreading their butt in front of the glorious flat-screen. |
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Posted: 3/19/2015 10:31:23 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
We hear so many folks getting all worked up over fuel costs, Yet they are happy to have their A-Hole ripped larger, over and over again, when they go to get brakes replaced, or other simple work done. These same folks ---using a little common sense, investing in some tools, and showing some initiative... Could save far more than the extra cost of fuel used for driving a larger vehicle, by doing some simple work instead of spreading their butt in front of the glorious flat-screen. 
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Posted: 3/19/2015 10:43:17 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is that common for Tacomas? I know the Jeep 4.0 has a rep for those kind of miles (it's one reason why I drive one). ETA: Lookup Tacomas for that year on CarComplaints, they look pretty good. Crash test results are better than the Liberty. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
]My tacoma has 250k on it now. Is that common for Tacomas? I know the Jeep 4.0 has a rep for those kind of miles (it's one reason why I drive one). ETA: Lookup Tacomas for that year on CarComplaints, they look pretty good. Crash test results are better than the Liberty. I'm the second owner, the first is on the forum as well. It has lead an interesting life, I have a thread on it over at Expedition Portal. Original clutch, power steering pump, steering rack, etc... I have changed the alternator at 230kish. Had it's first timing belt at 180k.
Absolutely the best truck I've ever owned. |
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