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You are going to love it. You won't need the amp mate unless you plan on bulk loading. But it was super nice when I ran my big batch of hornady brass.
Make yourself a sheet of some sort or a chart for your Aztec numbers. |
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Originally Posted By mettee: You are going to love it. You won't need the amp mate unless you plan on bulk loading. But it was super nice when I ran my big batch of hornady brass. Make yourself a sheet of some sort or a chart for your Aztec numbers. Another pro tip, get a thicker piece of leather and cut a cover for the top, dropping brass marks the top up. View Quote If I bought a Mate, I'd have to then get a Dillon thing, thing, thing; I'm not ready to shell out another $700. I simply bought another shell holder so I can have one in the machine and one ready to do into the machine. I'm also keeping a record by caliber and brass manufacturer. Question, does the code stay the same for brass as it's reused, so one fired and fifth fired use the same code? |
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President, Quantico Shooting Club where we shoot 1,000yds every Sunday!
Back the Blue |
Gah I just saw that they put out a new amp at shot show, has the ability to program and save your stuff right in the machine.
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Originally Posted By Defender3: If I bought a Mate, I'd have to then get a Dillon thing, thing, thing; I'm not ready to shell out another $700. I simply bought another shell holder so I can have one in the machine and one ready to do into the machine. I'm also keeping a record by caliber and brass manufacturer. Question, does the code stay the same for brass as it's reused, so one fired and fifth fired use the same code? View Quote Yes code always stays the same. But if you see an issue it can't hurt to re-analyze one and see if the number changes. I havent gotten that far with load counts but that was what I'm told |
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Originally Posted By mettee: Yes code always stays the same. But if you see an issue it can't hurt to re-analyze one and see if the number changes. I havent gotten that far with load counts but that was what I'm told View Quote I did a few cases last night to establish the codes. I have to do the PRC over again as the pilot for the PRC is a 31B and I entered 31A. I'll see if there's a marked difference in the reading. |
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President, Quantico Shooting Club where we shoot 1,000yds every Sunday!
Back the Blue |
Once you do that, you will be set. I was able to go pretty fast just by hand loading each piece, I would knock off the annealed piece into a tin and load another, very easy...
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Originally Posted By mettee: Once you do that, you will be set. I was able to go pretty fast just by hand loading each piece, I would knock off the annealed piece into a tin and load another, very easy... View Quote It did generate a different code, 151 for the 31A and 147 for the 31B. Quantico closed ranges for Sunday, go figure, the second weekend in a row with temps in the 50's, so I'll have some time to kill with no sports all day. |
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President, Quantico Shooting Club where we shoot 1,000yds every Sunday!
Back the Blue |
Had issues a couple weeks ago with the 260, it wouldn't fully eject the round and stove pipe. Figured it was just dirty. Cleaned it and took it out again today and had the same issues. Also had multiple issues of it not stripping off a round from a fresh magazine. Tired the upsuppressed setting (switch to the left) and it seemed to 'fix' it. Then back to the suppressed setting and it was fine for the last 6'ish rounds I shot. Dunno what's up, never had issues with it.
Seems the gas block has a slight leak on the right side as shown in a beow pic. Maybe normal? Can also see carbon build up on the inside of the hand guard. The gas block lever was so tight I had to take pliers to it in the field I got it working better now. Fair amount of build up at the barrel nut as well. Is it possible the gas tube is clogged? Never heard it it ut this seems like a gas issue. Is it worth taking the gas block off by removing the set screws and snap ring? Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Was breezy today. Factory H130 ammo on top, reloads on bottom.
Can for sure do better! Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot: Had issues a couple weeks ago with the 260, it wouldn't fully eject the round and stove pipe. Figured it was just dirty. Cleaned it and took it out again today and had the same issues. Also had multiple issues of it not stripping off a round from a fresh magazine. Tired the upsuppressed setting (switch to the left) and it seemed to 'fix' it. Then back to the suppressed setting and it was fine for the last 6'ish rounds I shot. Dunno what's up, never had issues with it. Seems the gas block has a slight leak on the right side as shown in a beow pic. Maybe normal? Can also see carbon build up on the inside of the hand guard. The gas block lever was so tight I had to take pliers to it in the field I got it working better now. Fair amount of build up at the barrel nut as well. Is it possible the gas tube is clogged? Never heard it it ut this seems like a gas issue. Is it worth taking the gas block off by removing the set screws and snap ring? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9829_jpg-3118246.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9834_jpg-3118247.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9835_jpg-3118248.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9836_jpg-3118249.JPG View Quote I won't discount the gas leak, but I'd be looking at the buffer weight and spring. |
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President, Quantico Shooting Club where we shoot 1,000yds every Sunday!
Back the Blue |
Agree, that malfunctoid is common to bolt overspeed. Whats your velocity?
I run the slash 8.5 oz XH and the armalite 308 rifle length spring, for both suppressed and not. and.....clean your gun bro. You can take apart the "nose" of the gas block and clean it all up. |
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Been using the same buffer and spring for a few years. Don't even remember what they are
Any other tips? |
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Had a Slash heavy buffer when it was a 308. Went back to the H2 and red spring when it went 260. Worked fine for a A few years. Something has changed recently and I'm not sure what it is. I will take the front of the gas block off and see if it's gummed up.
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot: Had a Slash heavy buffer when it was a 308. Went back to the H2 and red spring when it went 260. Worked fine for a A few years. Something has changed recently and I'm not sure what it is. I will take the front of the gas block off and see if it's gummed up. View Quote Good luck getting that gas block off. If you're using anything other than the white spring (like a blue or red), you may have too much resistance for the bolt. |
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President, Quantico Shooting Club where we shoot 1,000yds every Sunday!
Back the Blue |
Looks like the end of the switch lever is clogged full. I assume it should not be full of carbon? If so and since it is essentially closed, how would the rifle cycle at all?
Hard to see in the pic. What else should I do while the gas block is partially apart? Attached File |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot: Had issues a couple weeks ago with the 260, it wouldn't fully eject the round and stove pipe. Figured it was just dirty. Cleaned it and took it out again today and had the same issues. Also had multiple issues of it not stripping off a round from a fresh magazine. Tired the upsuppressed setting (switch to the left) and it seemed to 'fix' it. Then back to the suppressed setting and it was fine for the last 6'ish rounds I shot. Dunno what's up, never had issues with it. Seems the gas block has a slight leak on the right side as shown in a beow pic. Maybe normal? Can also see carbon build up on the inside of the hand guard. The gas block lever was so tight I had to take pliers to it in the field I got it working better now. Fair amount of build up at the barrel nut as well. Is it possible the gas tube is clogged? Never heard it it ut this seems like a gas issue. Is it worth taking the gas block off by removing the set screws and snap ring? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9829_jpg-3118246.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9834_jpg-3118247.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9835_jpg-3118248.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9836_jpg-3118249.JPG View Quote |
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God will not look you over for medals, diplomas, or degrees – but for scars
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Don't take the whole block off, just pull the nose and parts. Soak them in boretech or ultrasonic
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Got it cleaned out. Might have been a weep hole left for some gas to go through.
Anything else while it's apart? |
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Whoa, good job!
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President, Quantico Shooting Club where we shoot 1,000yds every Sunday!
Back the Blue |
I figured it was a gas issue since nothing else has changed. Had no idea they could be taken apart and cleaned. Never cleaned a gas block before.
glad I know now. Thanks for the suggestion Drew! Will do the Costa next. Soaking the muzzle device in CLR. Haven't done that in a while. Anything else while it's apart? |
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The rest of the rifle is clean! Speaking of cleaning, is there an arisol based product I can spray the insides of the upper and lower with that will clean and not hard the FDE?
When reassembling the PST what should I use for lube on the pins that insert into the gas block and the other end that inserts into the cover? Also may need something on the ball detent pockets? Only thing I have here at the house that is semi high temp is copper based anti seize. Will that work? |
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot: The rest of the rifle is clean! Speaking of cleaning, is there an arisol based product I can spray the insides of the upper and lower with that will clean and not hard the FDE? When reassembling the PST what should I use for lube on the pins that insert into the gas block and the other end that inserts into the cover? Also may need something on the ball detent pockets? Only thing I have here at the house that is semi high temp is copper based anti seize. Will that work? View Quote I only use machine gunners lube...its going to leave moly and it has a high cook off point |
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DuneShoot, check your gas key. Might be loose.
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LaRue made "ME" do it!
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Yeah plug up the hole and blow air in the gas key with some solvent on there and look for excess bubbling. It should be very minimal.
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Thanks all but it's back together. Couple desk pops later and it runs!
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President, Quantico Shooting Club where we shoot 1,000yds every Sunday!
Back the Blue |
No pics bit I got some 136 gr Lapua scenar bullets and another box of alpha SRP brass.
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I'm fixing to do a small write up on the pointed berger 130s I loaded. I need to compile everything and then make the post as concise as I can.
The 136 scenar bullets I got loaded from berger hammered in my barrel, so I figured I'd give those a go as well. I plan to point those too. |
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Originally Posted By mettee: I'm fixing to do a small write up on the pointed berger 130s I loaded. I need to compile everything and then make the post as concise as I can. The 136 scenar bullets I got loaded from berger hammered in my barrel, so I figured I'd give those a go as well. I plan to point those too. View Quote I haven’t tested the Bergers against the Lapuas in the gap. Lapuas are good enough for my purposes and I buy 1,000 at a time with my birthday discount on Midway. |
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Originally Posted By SpeyRod: I haven’t tested the Bergers against the Lapuas in the gap. Lapuas are good enough for my purposes and I buy 1,000 at a time with my birthday discount on Midway. View Quote You buy the bergers or the lapua bullets? I stopped buying at midway when they ripped me off on some ammo. |
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Originally Posted By Defender3: My barrel also like those 136's. Router took a crap so I went big: WiFi 6, tri-band, 160Mhz channels, eight LAN ports, etc., etc. Easy to set up and I was able to get all the home devices set up in about 30 minutes. I still need to tweak the settings, but it's working. Not sure what happened since I have filtered power but my ASUS router and Ubiquity LR6 access point started to both have flakey and slow wireless. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG_0185-3123488.jpg View Quote I can't believe how pricey they have gotten. I'm still on original AC wireless and have wanted to upgrade for a bit How's that TP link rank against the main players? |
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Originally Posted By mettee: I can't believe how pricey they have gotten. I'm still on original AC wireless and have wanted to upgrade for a bit How's that TP link rank against the main players? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By mettee: Originally Posted By Defender3: My barrel also like those 136's. Router took a crap so I went big: WiFi 6, tri-band, 160Mhz channels, eight LAN ports, etc., etc. Easy to set up and I was able to get all the home devices set up in about 30 minutes. I still need to tweak the settings, but it's working. Not sure what happened since I have filtered power but my ASUS router and Ubiquity LR6 access point started to both have flakey and slow wireless. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/52736/IMG_0185-3123488.jpg I can't believe how pricey they have gotten. I'm still on original AC wireless and have wanted to upgrade for a bit How's that TP link rank against the main players? It's a top ranked router, even though it's been out for two years now. I got it for a sale price and with the 8 LAN ports and tri-bands, it's a beast. I used TP-Link years ago and they were decent entry level units. I switched to ASUS a while ago and used their RX88U series, but this is the second one that's gone down in less than 2-years use; probably under warranty, but I'm not going to deal with it. |
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President, Quantico Shooting Club where we shoot 1,000yds every Sunday!
Back the Blue |
I have been running linksys for some time, the "blue" one that does AC, I haven't been rushed to upgrade because even though I am on gigabit, they can't deliver that full speed, I barely average 500 megs down.
I got over 700 megs down on Verizon 5G the other day... |
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Today I picked up an 8# of H4350 and my 136's arrived.
I ordered the Sawtooth arca rail for the Tobr, it arrived today and its installed. Fit and finish is fantastic and I believe that it adds a bit of structural rigidity to the rail itself. I will have to run it for a while and see if I really like it. |
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Quick search for Sawtooth arca rail and they are $150, ouch!
Are you using a tripod? Need a 4" for the Costa and or pTAR for tripod use. Today I took apart the Costa PST gas block. Wasn't near as clogged as the 260 was. Also cleaned out the SLR gas block I added to the pTAR. |
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https://www.sawtoothrifles.com/product/dovetail-rail-larue-tactical/
I'll use a tripod from time to time. |
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Originally Posted By mettee: Today I picked up an 8# of H4350 and my 136's arrived. I ordered the Sawtooth arca rail for the Tobr, it arrived today and its installed. Fit and finish is fantastic and I believe that it adds a bit of structural rigidity to the rail itself. I will have to run it for a while and see if I really like it. View Quote 600 yd group today with 140 Scenar’s. I can’t remember is I tried the 136’s other than the L’s which I think they discontinued. Also shot using a Garmin. Damn that thing is simple. I need one! Attached File |
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Nice shootin'!
What was the exact load? |
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President, Quantico Shooting Club where we shoot 1,000yds every Sunday!
Back the Blue |
Nice work!
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Originally Posted By DuneShoot: Had issues a couple weeks ago with the 260, it wouldn't fully eject the round and stove pipe. Figured it was just dirty. Cleaned it and took it out again today and had the same issues. Also had multiple issues of it not stripping off a round from a fresh magazine. Tired the upsuppressed setting (switch to the left) and it seemed to 'fix' it. Then back to the suppressed setting and it was fine for the last 6'ish rounds I shot. Dunno what's up, never had issues with it. Seems the gas block has a slight leak on the right side as shown in a beow pic. Maybe normal? Can also see carbon build up on the inside of the hand guard. The gas block lever was so tight I had to take pliers to it in the field I got it working better now. Fair amount of build up at the barrel nut as well. Is it possible the gas tube is clogged? Never heard it it ut this seems like a gas issue. Is it worth taking the gas block off by removing the set screws and snap ring? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9829_jpg-3118246.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9834_jpg-3118247.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9835_jpg-3118248.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/247601/IMG_9836_jpg-3118249.JPG View Quote Not a 260 tOBR, but my .308 16" was doing the same thing with my Hybrid 46 attached (feeding failure and a stovepipe on the suppressed setting, ran fine on unsuppressed). I attributed it to possible the AAC 150gr black tip ammo I was using. This rifle is new to me, but the original owner stated only 240 rounds fired. Any tips? I see you took your gas block apart? |
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“There's a lot of people calling for the end of violence...I am glad Sam Adams, Thomas Paine, the actual Tea Party guys, the men at Lexington and Concord didn't feel that way.” - the man with the golden EIB mic.
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You could try the 46 caliber front cap first. If that changes anything go from there. It's most likely back pressure related, which causes more bolt speed, the ports can only do so much to flow then pressure takes over. Your bolt is bouncing and back forward faster than normal.
Next option will be spring and buffer changes. That AAC 150 says 2850 muzzle velocity which is somewhat hotter given m80 ball is about 2800 for a 147 grn. |
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