Many of you probably remember the other thread I started recently where I was seeking input on my first revolver, here:  http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_5_33/163782_I___I___I_don_t_know_what_s_going_on_.html





















All three are in the same ball park on price (locally). Again, I'm just planning on this primarily being range/farm use.  Going to throw a poll up, if I remember how.  

Thanks!













 

I see a few votes, thanks!  

If you have time, care to leave a few comments on why you voted for your choices?

I don't think any of the choices you listed are bad.  In general, I would recommend a solid 4 inch .357 mag.  You've got two great (4 inch) options on your list and you can't go wrong with either.   I voted for the GP100 Match Champion because I really want one myself!

I have the WC three inch and really like it.  I own a fair number of both Smith and Rugers.  I've always thought the difference in triggers was mostly illusionary.  Ruger has reissued the old style compact grips which makes the WC a nice carry piece.

Found a guy on Armslist here in town selling a nickel plated 6" 586 for $625.  This is a no-dash 586.  I was wanting a 4" barrel, but thought I'd see if this was FO'able with you guys.  

A little research shows a 586 and 686 are the same thing, except that models beginning with a 5 are blued, and beginning with a 6 are stainless.  Correct?  Guessing this may have been nickle plated later on in life?

S&W all day long.

This.

Two things make a great revolver: accuracy & a good trigger. Rugers come from the factory with neither. S&W has both in spades.

Gotcha both, but has anyone looked at the Armslist link I posted?  

 

A nickel 586 is a bit of a rarity.   The six inch guns don't generally sell as well as the four inch.  Price seems fair.

Thanks!  I'll keep my eye on it a bit.  I'm outta town at the moment and can't act on it anyway, so I've got a little time.  

 

Model 586's came from the factory with either a blue or nickel finish.
From the pics the finish looks factory - the hammer and trigger are still case hardened, as would be correct for a factory finish.
Refinished guns often have the trigger and hammer nickeled as well.
Being a no dash 586 that gun was subject to the L frame recall.
On early guns the cylinder may bind up while firing 357 magnum. This was due to the frame mounted bushing the firing pin passes through shifting and dragging on a cartridge case.
Guns that have been recalled will have an M stamp near the model number on the frame.
Smith & Wesson still honors the recall and will repair free of charge.

That's awesome info!  Didn't realize they made them in nickel; glad you responded.  I might message him to see if it had the recall/M-stamp.  So would you say, if it had the recall performed, would it be G2G, or should I pass and go for a NIB 686?  I'd save about $140 or so over buying locally w/tax, but I tend to prefer NIB so I know the history of the gun.  Only considering it mainly because it's pre-lock, which seems to be a good thing as far as value is concerned...???

 

Even if the 586 no-dash doesn't have the "M" stamp on it, S&W will still perform the correction under recall. The price is not out of line for a nickel-plated 586, and a 6 inch gun would make a good range toy/farm gun.

I carry a 4 inch 686 as my duty revolver, and I would have no qualms about buying one, with or without the lock and MIM parts. On the other hand, my primary carry off duty is a 3 inch Model 13-3 that may need to be buried with me.

Thanks, Wardog!  

 

I've got a 4" blued 586. Had it since 1997. A great revolver.
When I was with FL FWC I had one of the armorer trained officers work the trigger. It has a better trigger than my Python.
Used it as a carry and Bowling Pin gun for several years.

I'd love to find a 6", in my opinion the best barrel length, great balance.. Nickel is a great finish. Durable.

Enjoy it.

The 6 inch L frames are terrific guns. I have a 4 inch 686 protecting me at this very moment.

Here's a pic, shooting my old 6 inch 586 at a rock ~120 yards distant. Hit came easy with that gun.

Wow, you guys are swaying me.  The guy says it is not stamped with an "M," but since you're saying S&W will honor the recall I'm getting a little tempted.

Would be kinda cool to throw a scope on it and try to take a deer with it someday.  

I have owned 2 no-dash L frames now. Neither of them had the Modification done, and neither of them experienced an issue with the bushing, with all types of hot-loaded ammo (reportedly the ammo which was used when the guns would bind up). Since it wasn't a problem, I never had either of them done.



 

I'm deer hunting with my 686 open sighted this year.

If a factory nickel gun (didn't realize they made them until reading this thread), sounds like a very fair price. If a well done nickel refin, not out of line. You will love it.

Thanks!  And good luck to you on your hunt.  

 

The standard 4.2" GP100 is a great gun. The trigger on mine has smoothed up wonderfully with use.

With proper inspection prior to buying there is no reason other than ocd to buy new revolvers. The old classics if even reasonably cared for will last many decades and close to unlimited round count. I have used and carried smiths from the 1920's with complete confidence, and know of several shooters who have roughly a half million rounds through revolvers without a single part replacement. They simply last forever. And I will also say if the shooter is up to the task they are generally more accurate than the current crop of poly combat autos.
I can shoot 50 yard groups with a simple beat up model ten that a glock ( at least in my hands- a gssf master) can manage at 25 yards.

OOooooooh, we'll need an AAR from that!!!  You would be fulfilling a dream of mine.  I've never shot a deer with a handgun before.

 

Neither have I.


I've been hunting for a few years now off and on with my .357s, .44, and .45, and still haven't gotten the right deer in the right range.

That would be pretty darn cool!  

 


I'm still hunting around and dragging my feet.  Found a guy that can order a new 4" 686 in for $642.  Best I've found anywhere, local or online. Haven't completely ruled out the GP100 simply because it's less expensive, but my wife said "Might as well spend a little more and get what you want."  Smart woman, lol.




If, let's say, I one day wanted to throw a scope on and try for a deer.  Obviously, a longer barrel is better for higher velocities, but would anyone hesitate with a 4"?  Provided of course it's zero'd, you've practiced and are reliable, the shot would be clean, etc.   I'm not talking a huge distance.  Probably 75-80yd max.  Over that and I'd probably just use the rifle.


 

If you really want to hunt with a scoped gun you should be looking for a Model 686-4 or later.
The -4 introduced a frame that is drilled and tapped for scope mounts.
The holes are under a revised rear sight.

 

I would buy that no dash 586 over a new 686 a dozen times.

Yeah, I went to Gunbroker and found similar no-dash nickel 586 6" barrel guns for $800-900, with one over $1000, all Buy-It-Now prices though.  I think I might FO.  Just emailed for more pictures...  


 


ETA:  I see in the ad it was "Originally sold as a target model."  What's that mean?  

"Target models" had specific grips, triggers and hammers.

Okay, thanks, putney.  


 



ETA:  Believe it or not, I did actually try Googling it first, with no real luck.  

Update:



I had the guy with the 586 send more pictures.  Unfortunately, they're VERY small.  From what I see, it looks like the tip of the under lug is dinged up bad.






Advice?  Again, he's asking $625 obo, no-dash 586.






ETA:  I guess I could probably have a gunsmith polish up that tip, eh?  I'm trying to work it out to go look at this thing this morning.  I'm more concerned with good mechanics, but I certainly don't want something that looks completely awful.  Hard to tell near the crane if it's fouled up, rusted, pitted, or what.    Guesses on a fair offer?


























 

Nice shooter grade gun.

Gun Smith could maybe fix that ding.

That's my thought and hope.  The guy won't reply to a request to meet up.  He'll answer questions about the gun, has asked when I want to come look, and now I've told him I want to see it (cash in hand) a couple times and no response.  Lives a mile or less from me.  WTH...  

 

At this point, I'd pass...

I think I'm going to leave it in his court.  I have $625 in cash on the kitchen counter.  If he calls, I'll look at it.  Won't be heart-broken if he doesn't tho.  

 


I just want SOMEthing to show you guys pictures of since everyone's been so helpful!  


 

Don't buy something on our account.  Just do what's best for you.  One thought about hunting and scopes.  If you scope it for hunting, the length of the barrel might not be as big of a deal.  The longer barrel really helps in sight radius for irons.  Although of course you get more velocity.  But I'm not sure as to how much more and if it matters.  I just vote for 4"ers more because I have a 6" and I've always like the balance of the 4"ers more.  But that's just me.  

I fondled a newer 686 about 2 years ago and despite the fact that I'd rather have an older no lock gun, it felt really nice and the trigger was actually really decent on that one in DA.   It was like 725 bucks.

I hear ya, but I do put a bit of weight towards what I do based on everyone's opinions here, especially since it's Tech and not GD.  I'm completely noobish to this, so I needed some hand holding.  Good point on the scope vs irons...hadn't thought of it that way, duh.  

A few more observations from the pics.
The extractor is blued, which would be correct for a factory nickeled gun.
It has the wide target hammer and target trigger.
The grips have a dull finish and football extractor relief. They are refinished and date earlier than the gun.

What really bothers me is the dinged up barrel. The gun took quite an impact to get such a big ding. I'd be worried something else got bent.  Also, if a gunsmith smooths it out, you'll have to renickel it or polish the bare metal 'til it shines like nickel.

Considering the damage i would go $500 tops or pass on it.

Thanks, ServiceGun.  I hadn't considered the impact it took to make that.  Great observation.

 

Gonna call this a pass, and feel good about doing so.  

Double-tap.  Stupid mouse.  

NONE of the above, they're all Crap!

It's a good thing you listed your suggestion then.  

 

I would pass on the nickel plated 586 with the underlug ding. That barrel didn't get bent from a ding that size, but if you remove some metal to smooth out the ding you'll be removing the nickel plate at that point and will have an area with raw steel that isn't plated or blued and would be much more susceptible to corrosion.

Yeah, thanks man!  I passed on it.  

 


Trying to convince myself to be selfish and just buy something now.    


 

I think your two Ruger options are great picks. I love the 3 inch barrel family in general, whether Smith or Ruger - so the WIley Clapp would probably be my pick.

I am one of those people who loves the original Ruger grip - I have been shooting it for about 25 years. One of the most accurate pistols I own is a GP100.

Good call passing on that 586. I don't mind buying guns with wear, but damage, especially near the barrel, always makes me do a double-take.

-shooter

Buy once cry once!!!

back in the day I was looking for a descent revolver, had 2 kids and not a lot of cash. Looked/tested/read about everything out there for months. Ended up with a 586 and a h&g #50 6-cavity 148gr wc mold.

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Shot countless 1000's of 38wc's out of it and would buy 4 #8 jugs of wc-820 (30carbilne pull down powder/= to h110 & aa#9) from pat marlin to load load 357's. Quit counting the primers I bought for reloading at the 100,000 mark. Shot the pistol a couple more years and sent it back to s&w to get it rebuilt in 2002. Shot the heck out it some more and finely the velocities of my reloads started falling off.  Sold it in 2014 ($400).

Anyway the 586-1 was an excellent revolver, shot bugholes and had a good trigger. It taught me a lot about revolvers & reloading for them. Bought a lot of different revolvers over the years and sold most of them off, couldn't hold a candle to the 586. Started buying custom revolvers like the s&w 10 that was turned into a ppc revolver.

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Dan wessons are another excellent revolver, easily customized. Bbl's are cheap and the gap can be set for a specific bullet/load (tuneable). A couple dw's with custom bbl's (1 in 10), custom heavy bbl shrouds, muzzle breaks & tuned triggers. These things eat full house loads like potato chips. And a different bbl/setup is a 2 minute change away, 8" bbl/6" bbl/4"high sight & low sight bbl's.

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I've owned/tried rugers  in the past, they just don't have the triggers or the accuracy. I'm not bad mouthing rugers, they put out 1 heck of a product. It's just hit and miss when it comes to accuracy. It's because of their machining process, more pointedly how the ream their cylinders. They use a gang setup cutting 3 holes at 1 time then re-index and cut the other 3. The problems start when 1 of the reamers wear out, they only replace that reamer. The end product is into the production run they end up with a new reamer and 2 wore reamers. A 2nd reamers goes & you end up with 2 new reamers and 1 extremely worn reamer, etc. A minus pin gauge set will easily pick up on this. That's why rugers are hit & miss when it comes to accuracy. The + side is that it's an easy fix to have the cylinders trued and then they turn into lasers!!!

Fast forward:
My 586 gave up the ghost so I started looking real hard for a replacement. Keep in mind I have the ppc & the dw's, just wanted another factory fixed bbl'd revolver. Looked for months trying/testing/reading everything I could get my hands on. In June of this year I made up my mind and ended up buying another s&w, a 686. All's I can say is WOW!!!

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Haven't had a lot of time to test loads for it, but I did manage to come up with these within the 1st couple weeks of owning it. These 6-shot groups were only shot @ 50ft from a rest using a 7x target scope (burris).

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That 586 I bought in 1987 gave me 20+ years of quality range time, I'm looking forward to another 20+ years with the 686.

Just sharing my experiences and where I put my hard earned $$$$.

For just a range gun a 686, seen a new 586 at a local shop for like 8-900 a couple weeks ago, Smith must churn out a very few of them.

I finally went full retard on a new 686 4" just now!  Picked this up from one of our local places.  I paid a bit more than I could've bought elsewhere, or online of course, but I've bought a few guns and other items from them in the past.  They're a good group of people, so it's worth it to me to help them stay in business.  


Thanks, everyone, for all the input, offers, and advice during my search.  I think my wife is more relieved than I am; now she won't have to put up with my mopey depression anymore, lol.  







 

Was just able to run a quick 24 rounds of 158 gr 38spl thru it at the range.  I didn't shoot it more because we were actually there for my friend- he's buying his first pistol today and I let him shoot a few of mine.

Anyway, wow, I love this 686.  I spent some time dry firing yesterday so I felt good with the DA.  I grouped all my shots within about a $.50 piece size.  We were only shooting at about 7 yards, but I'm really happy since I've never shot DA very well.  I was impressed!  

I'm excited for you!!  That is a really nice handgun.  Maybe give us a full range report when you go and give it some love.

Thanks!  Sure thing.  The friend I took gun shopping yesterday, he and I are going to try to get our wives out to the range together some night.  We all share the same sitter for our kids, so we thought a dinner/range double-date night would be fun.  I'll try to give a report after that.

Next week's deer hunting.  If we get a couple of deer I'll probably try to take a few shots with the 686 out there; maybe some longer shots as well.  I've got a can of old (2011, wtf?!) Bush's Baked Beans in the car that I'm planning to shoot.