I missed that you were watering grass. My advice would not apply to irrigation water. I feel terrible about giving bad advice. You gave me information I ignored. You don’t want to treat irrigation water. Water at night. Use lake water. See if that “fixes” it. I’m not going anywhere. Get back to me if you need to do more to be happy. It’s just money and that’s relative. You smell a gas. It will go into the atmosphere if it sits in a glass. Spraying will speed up the water gas separation. A vented tank with a float to turn it on and off is a common fix. A fan blowing air into the tank with a passive outlet will make this more effective. The next time you spray, it will be sulfur free.

That’s deep to jerk a pipe up and down. 150 to water or deep? Check valve on the bottom of the water line, 2 elbows in the top. So you’re spraying straight down and you don’t drop it. When you’re jerking it up and down you won’t have to be far into the water.

I use pipe wrenches to pull sticks of pipe myself if I can’t use a machine. I got two hernias to prove it. It works. They should be at a 70 to 80 degree angle. Get strong men, take breaks, catch your breath. More people can’t hurt. Two men can pull at the same time. Take turns if you have enough people. You will get weak as you do this.
That’s awesome. Sand water is the best water.

I didn't check lots of emergency calls today. I always try to fix it the same day. Work stacks quick.

The chlorine in the bleach oxidizes the hydrogen sulfide eliminating the sulfur odor.

A chemical feed pump adds chlorine to the water sys- tem. A filtering system should then remove the sulfur  sediment formed. A settling tank sometimes replaces the filter system. A 500 gallon settling tank is usually big enough.
A carbon filter may be used for cooking drinking or shower water to remove the sulfur sediment or any suspended materials in the water.
These filters need maintenance.
Iron Removal Filter looks like a water softener and requires no maintenance for a long time. They flush themselves out. The carbon needs replaced eventually.
Cartridge Filters are cheap upfront but overtime will be more expensive and require regular maintenance.

Ive never built one. Think of I v pump. Search metering pump. A venturi may be a neat way to do this if the water is already moving anyway.
I'm not forty yet. I've only had control of my business for three years. I'm still trying to figure things out. I am gonna change things for the better. When my dad was alive, I could only be his little boy. I could prove him wrong and he would say. The boss is not always right, but the boss is always the boss. We never evolved unless he wanted.

Shared wells should never be a problem. People suck and fight over things. Even if I can meter the water so that they can divide the cost by use, they will argue over who to hire from maintenance. I had a gun pulled on me once while trying to repair a well.

Distances usually not an issue. It's usually restriction. A garden hose can be a lot longer than a straw. But if you try to exhale into both, you can imagine the result. Going up you lose pressure. You can add a booster pump and fix this cheap.

You're small bad pressure tank is causing a lot of issues more than you realize. This needs fixed before you do anything else. The larger the tank, the less often it will cycle. Everything is measured in numbers of cycles, not gallons. Picture City and highway driving. If the switch cycles a million times and you pump 20 gallons each time or one gallon, each time the lifespan will be in cycles.

The main thing with buildings is water goes down and out. If the well is inside of a pit that makes a good funnel to put surface water into the well. The well needs properly sealed whatever that means. If you're in a colder climate when we'll make it freeze. You usually don't need to heat it. Because it's in the ground, the ground will stay warm. In the winter, the guy working in the pit is the warmest one.

Changed a good working 50 year old pump today. Owner was old pump was original. If you notice the date, everything is 1974 This is what quality properly adjusted will get you.

Casing was not thick enough. Set two deep for thickness. Ground collapsed it.

I will try to edit this in the morning and reread this so I can fix my mistakes. When I make a mistake it needs pointed out. I may not go back and correct it if i'm not told. We have been talking about sulfur a lot. This is a regional issue a man had. Mentioned, only two people on a lake have sulfur maybe they do, maybe they have a leaking septic system. Without good information, we cannot make good decisions. This water needs tested to verify what it is. The correct way to treat sulfur depends on the concentration. There are many ways to do things but there is only one best. Almost every job I go on. I'm not allowed to do my best. People have budgets I must respect.

@doyouquaxu
Give me a better description of the water coming out of the top. Artesian and its flowing over inside of the casing. Leak inside of the well in its spraying out from inside of the casing. A waterline leaking outside of the well and it's running up beside the casing. (Probably) Artesian well, and it's running up beside the casing and out.

Turning the power off at the breaker can tell you if you're pumping this water.

Delayed, sorry. Forgot to check back in. I take the cap off and water is coming out the casing then spilling down the sides. The casing sticks up past the grade of my yard about 1ft. Happens with pump on, pump off/power off.

Attached File




** I just started a thread and didnt realize this one was currently going. **




Ive got tannins that get into my well water whenever we get an unusually high amount of rain.   It usually takes about a day or two after the rain before the water starts to discolor.  

I have a shallow well (28 ft) and I live in southeast VA.   I moved to this house 8 years ago.  The first time this happened was after a noreaster that dumped about 3 inches over 16 hours.   I freaked out and sent my water off for testing.   Everything was good.  Now I do a home test once a year and send off a test once a year.   Ive never had a test come back showing anything out of the ordinary.  I have very little iron, no unusual mineral concentrations, no cysts, bacteria, pesticides, herbicides or VOC's.   I have a large farm that borders the back of my property, maybe a quarter mile from my well, so thats why I have the tests done.  Ive got a spindown filter, a couple pleated filters (a 30 micron and a 1 micron) and a water softener that was my ex-wifes idea.    

Does anyone here have tannins and actually have a cost effective way to deal with them?   All the neighbors who have shallow wells like me have the same issue and dont care at all.   I dont want to spend 2k for a filter that I only need 2 weeks a year.  I have a ton of pine trees on the property that seems to be the culprit.    A deep well is definitely not in the budget.  

Do activated carbon filters work at all for this?

We just got a ton of rain last week and this is the water coming out of my faucets.  

The small pipe the wire is coming up "the condit" would be a leak in the ground with the power off eventually it would stop leaking, but it would leak for quite a while until the pressure tank is drained. You could speed that process up by turning a garden hose on. That would be the fitting where the water line comes out of the well. A leak at the pittless adapter. Very common.

Coming out of the casing or the well in a spray is a leak. Flowing would be an "artesian well" ground water under pressure. There are risks to stopping this. Water coming up the outside of the casing, threatening the integrity of the well or pushing the well casing out of the ground or neither. You could extend the pipe up until it stops. Cut the pipe barely above where the water level stops. You could put a well seal in it. The seal would be too hard things with a piece of rubber when you tighten it seals. You could also relieve the pressure below the ground into a tile or above the ground into a tile.

Think on that and @ me.

Cartridge filters
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N41DBSW?tag=arfcom00-20



Backwash filter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/116100871860?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=116100871860&targetid=4580428016871226&device=m&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=603247657&mkgroupid=1229254994528356&rlsatarget=pla-4580428016871226&abcId=9316139&merchantid=51291&msclkid=b80d0578d65015282d0d6081c8e67af3

Install after the water softer

The first option needs a carbon filter after it, correct?  Does the second one? I currently have mine set up this way:

 Pump -> Spindown filter with coarse mesh -> Tank -> 30 micron pleated -> 1 micron pleated - > softener.

I can easily replumb for an extra filter if necessary.  I also know youre not supposed to put any filter in front of the tank but ive never had an issue with the coarse spindowns.

Great timing. My brother has a shallow irrigation well that is basically pumping rust, to the point that his greenery is now dying. It appears to be a very shallow single pipe with above ground pump and check valve. He was quoted $3k for a new well, and is wondering if there is anything he can do to treat the existing well.

@TheWellGuy

@TurkeyLeg

Verify the pressure tank is good by relieving the water pressure after turning the power off. Two psi less than cut in no water trapped in the tank. Cycling on and off often can make more iron. Make sure the water pressure doesn't move when the water is not running. Leaking water in the well will produce iron by stirring up the water aerating it. Pump the well for an extended period to flush it out. Days if it doesn't run dry. Chlorinate the well with 10% or 12% swimming pool chlorine and white vinegar. Chlorinate first with a garden hose in the well to circulate and white vinegar to ph @ 6-7 after its mixed.  Let sit or let it circulate for 24 hours and pump until clear and no odor. Repeat until no discoloration. @ me if that doesn't work. Sand is your enemy if you start pumping sand.

@Skinnywater

@TheWellGuy

Water pipe vibrations - how to stop them?

Submerged pump controlled by a VFD, 115 gal bladder tank. Open loop Geothermal that uses 10 gal/min. When the geo is in operation, I can hear the VFD cycle from low to high and back again, trying to maintain the set pressure (about 48 psi), usually keeps it within +/- 2psi of the setpoint.

However, about once every 20 seconds or so, it "bottoms out" which causes a vibration in the pipes before it ramps the pump speed back up. I tried lowering and raising the pressure setpoint, but it still bottoms out about once every 20 seconds, causing a vibration in the pipes.

Do I need to adjust my bladder tank precharge pressure to fix this or do you have another suggestion?

ETA: Speaking of bladder tank precharge pressure, what do you recommend it be set at, since this is a constant pressure system? Still 2psi below pump cut-in pressure?

@Mad_Anthony is the sensor after the tank? 70% of the cut in is the correct air charge.

@TheWellGuy

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Tank precharge is set to 33.5 psi.

I would probably plug that sensor hole with another gauge. That way you've got two. I like gauges
Get a long stainless steel washing machine hose. A male adapter to put the sensor into it, hook the other end up to your boiler drain real close to the tank and see if it stops ramping up and down.

Water is dense. The pressure may be going up and down before it goes out because your sensor is too close to where it's coming in not after the tank enough.  The air in the tank is the shock absorber. Like a high-speed frequency it's not evened out quick enough. So you're sensing the extremes, high low high low.

@Mad_Anthony

@TheWellGuy

I have to admit I'm nervous about installing a hose due to the rupture potential. Could I instead spin that boiler drain out and install a tee so I can mount the sensor down by the boiler drain? Or is some length of pipe required for the sensor to put some distance between it the main line?

@Mad_Anthony sorry busy day.
If it's a nice stainless steel one I wouldn't be any more worried than the ones that are hooked up to your washing machine.
If you want to hard plumb it, just put a union and then an elbow and bring it straight up. That way it's easy to change it or work on. That sensor needs to be straight up that is recommended.  

You could buy a pressure snubber. A device that is used to suppress the effect of pressure pulses and pressure peaks. They are cheap. Some have cylinders, and others are sintered.

Whenever I do constant pressure, which I do a lot, I just use a stop cycle valve in the well. If you have a lot of minerals, they can build up in the valve other than that no problems. You already have a vfd so no point in changing it.     https://cyclestopvalves.com