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Posted: 2/29/2024 3:06:22 AM EDT
Ask me anything @ me if someone ever needs help in the future and you want to see something neat happen.
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Posted: 2/29/2024 6:03:21 AM EDT
[#1]
I don't have a problem thankfully.
Growing up, I worked with my grandfather drilling wells. It's a good warm weather job. The winter jobs sucked. Thanks for the memories OP. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 6:06:12 AM EDT
[#2]
What city are you closest to?
I've lived in my house 15 years and haven't had a problem with mine, other than replacing my pressure tank. Any preventative measures to take? |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 6:16:10 AM EDT
[#3]
The water well at the lake has that sulphur smell. We don't use it for potable water, just irrigation.
Is there something I can apply to the well bore to treat that? |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 2/29/2024 6:22:15 AM EDT
[#4]
@thewellguy
This subject peaks my interest as I have some vacant land in NE Michigan, 10 mins from Lake Huron. I’d like to have a well on. I’d be fine fifth a hand pump. What is the process of finding out where to put a well? |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 2/29/2024 6:36:26 AM EDT
[#5]
What is the best wood to use for a bucket? Mine seems to weaken, and needs replaced often, from hitting the sides while lowering.
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:01:05 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Bellows1: I don't have a problem thankfully. Growing up, I worked with my grandfather drilling wells. It's a good warm weather job. The winter jobs sucked. Thanks for the memories OP. Most well owners never do anything to their well. There's a reason people say colder than a well driller's ass. It's different being in the cold when you're wet. If you want share any stories, I'd love to hear them. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:02:31 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AJE: What city are you closest to? I've lived in my house 15 years and haven't had a problem with mine, other than replacing my pressure tank. Any preventative measures to take? Delaware is the big one people know. Good question.  The pressure tank can be bad and not present itself in a manner that some can perceive. This is the most important part of maintenance for a well. The pressure tank exists so that the pump can run longer and less often. If the tank is bad, the water pressure will not be consistent and will eventually pulsate as you lose the shock-absorbing air. The water quality will also suffer. The tank is not providing a fresh and clean water exchange if it is harboring water for extended periods of time. The surging effect will pull more debris into the well and cause mineral buildup by making the water level fluctuate in the well. To verify that the pressure tank is in good working order, you must turn the power off and relieve the water pressure. After that is done, check the air pressure. It should be between 2 and 4 pounds below the lowest water pressure when the pump turns on. Make sure the tank does not feel heavy as if it is still full of water. It should be full of air. Some wells could benefit from a good cleaning. However, I am hesitant to recommend chemicals that may be misused. Someone could get injured, or the result could be the opposite of what you intended. https://wellowner.org/resources/water-well-maintenance/residential-well-cleaning/ |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:05:52 AM EDT
[#8]
Testing your well water annually for coliform bacteria, nitrates, and other contaminants of local concern. You can find a state certified laboratory near you here.
https://waterfilterguru.com/water-well-maintenance/ Inspect your well for any signs of damage or contamination, such as cracks, corrosion, leaks, or debris. You can also hire a professional water well contractor to do a more thorough inspection every ten years.Keeping hazardous materials, such as paint, fertilizer, pesticides, and motor oil, away from your well. Look for any changes in your water quality, such as taste, odor, color, or clarity. If you notice any changes, test your water and contact me if needed. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:07:05 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MethaneMover: The water well at the lake has that sulphur smell. We don't use it for potable water, just irrigation. Is there something I can apply to the well bore to treat that? Every one at the lake? A lot of people have a water heater that is causing a bacteria to grow. A simple test is to turn the hot water on in one room and cold water on in another room. Wait a minute or two and then walk between them and smell. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:08:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gone_rabid: @thewellguy This subject peaks my interest as I have some vacant land in NE Michigan, 10 mins from Lake Huron. I’d like to have a well on. I’d be fine fifth a hand pump. What is the process of finding out where to put a well? Lots of info here. https://www.michigan.gov/egle/maps-data/wellogic I recommend the simple pump. It may not be appropriate for your application. https://simplepump.com/ |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:09:31 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RebelBoxer: What is the best wood to use for a bucket? Mine seems to weaken, and needs replaced often, from hitting the sides while lowering. I know this is GD good forum decorum is not expected. Everyone appreciates the jokes. Cedar: Cedar is a softwood that is widely available, lightweight, and naturally rot-resistant. It has a pleasant aroma and a reddish-brown color. However, cedar is not very hard or dense, and may dent or crack easily. Cedar may also contain oils that could affect the taste or smell of the water. Oak: Oak is a hardwood that is strong, durable, and dense. It has a rich brown color and a distinctive grain pattern. Oak is moderately rot-resistant, but may require some treatment or coating to prevent decay. Oak is also relatively heavy and expensive compared to other woods. Maple: Maple is a hardwood that is hard, dense, and smooth. It has a light tan color and a fine grain. Maple is not very rot-resistant, and may need to be sealed or painted to protect it from moisture. Maple is also fairly heavy and costly compared to other woods. Pine: Pine is a softwood that is cheap, abundant, and easy to work with. It has a yellowish-white color and a coarse grain. Pine is not very rot-resistant, and may rot quickly if exposed to water. Pine may also contain resin or sap that could contaminate the water or attract insects. Ultimately, the best wood for a bucket for a dug well depends on your personal preference, budget, and availability. You may also want to consider using a metal or plastic bucket instead of a wooden one, as these materials may offer better durability, hygiene, and convenience. However, if you prefer the traditional and rustic look of a wooden bucket you can find instructions online. I'm not a carpenter and I'm not sure what website to link. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:11:02 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#12]
You guys keep them coming. I'm getting ready to leave my home for work. If I don't respond. It's because I'm doing something else. I will check back when it is appropriate. This is fun it is going to be real fun if we can resolve an issue that someone has been dealing with.
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:13:15 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheWellGuy: Every one at the lake? A lot of people have a water heater that is causing a bacteria to grow. A simple test is to turn the hot water on in one room and cold water on in another room. Wait a minute or two and then walk between them and smell. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheWellGuy: Originally Posted By MethaneMover: The water well at the lake has that sulphur smell. We don't use it for potable water, just irrigation. Is there something I can apply to the well bore to treat that? Every one at the lake? A lot of people have a water heater that is causing a bacteria to grow. A simple test is to turn the hot water on in one room and cold water on in another room. Wait a minute or two and then walk between them and smell. He used to pour a little bleach down hole to kill the smell, but it wasnt a permanent solution. But, this is strictly for irrigation. It's not an issue, just curious. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:15:47 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MethaneMover: Really just us and the neighbors. He used to pour a little bleach down hole to kill the smell, but it wasnt a permanent solution. But, this is strictly for irrigation. It's not an issue, just curious. My first thought is. What is different about your wells than the others. You're spraying it in the air and then smelling it. It is an issue. I don't know if the cost of the fix would be worth it. Need more information. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:18:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Birddog1911]
[#15]
I've got an issue right now. Well to cistern to pressure tank. Pressure tanks is a few years old. New level switch in cistern. New relays.
About 5 days ago, we started to lose pressure after a quart of water from the faucet. Flush the toilet, and it will drop to near zero. Pressure tank is at 70#, and does not sound as if it broke. Thoughts? |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:25:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Birddog1911: I've got an issue right now. Well to cistern to pressure tank. Pressure tanks is a few years old. New level switch in cistern. New relays. About 5 days ago, we started to lose pressure after a quart of water from the faucet. Flush the toilet, and it will drop to near zero. Pressure tank is at 70#, and does not sound as if it broke. Thoughts? Plugged water filter. If you run two things at once, does it half the output of both? Is your outside unfiltered water affected? |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:29:28 AM EDT
[#17]
Yes, it will effect both.
I replaced the filter a couple of weeks, and I'm not seeing more silt, but I'll try replacing it. One way or another, thanks. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:35:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Birddog1911: Yes, it will effect both. I replaced the filter a couple of weeks, and I'm not seeing more silt, but I'll try replacing it. One way or another, thanks. Give me some information about the filter. Dimensions material micron rating. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:36:24 AM EDT
[#19]
Guys, it's not just Wells. What we need is information to make the correct decision. Walk slow and heed each step.
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:39:06 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheWellGuy: Plugged water filter. If you run two things at once, does it half the output of both? Is your outside unfiltered water affected? Well, that was it. Being so early, I'd forgotten that I installed a higher density filter, and it just clogged faster than I'm used to. Again, thanks. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:42:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: ZW17]
[#21]
@AJE
Can you move this thread over to the DIY forum so I can tack this and save it? This poster is a goldmine of info in his trade. I don't want this thread lost to the archives |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:56:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: FMJshooter]
[#22]
I like to keep spare parts for things that tend to blow up on Sunday morning.
Seems like everyone knows to keep an extra pressure switch but what about a capacitor? I haven't opened the box to see if I can find a part number for a replacement, are they all pretty much standard stuff I can buy online? No idea what pump is down there or how deep. 
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:57:28 AM EDT
[#23]
You guys have helped me out a lot and I'm just trying to repay. Whatever the best way is to get good information out there.
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:00:04 AM EDT
[#24]
What happened to Central Pump & Supply in/near Powell? Urban Sprawl?
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:04:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wienerman1961: What happened to Central Pump & Supply in/near Powell? Urban Sprawl? Bob rice died. I can't remember his boy's name. But he still has a hell of a tractor collection. It was on Lazelle Road. Pretty area just off of a busy highway. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:11:50 AM EDT
[#26]
@TheWellGuy I need to pull and stack 250’ of steel pipe to switch over to poly and a solar pump. I have a tractor with a fel. Any tips or tricks ?
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:13:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FMJshooter: I like to keep spare parts for things that tend to blow up on Sunday morning. Seems like everyone knows to keep an extra pressure switch but what about a capacitor? I haven't opened the box to see if I can find a part number for a replacement, are they all pretty much standard stuff I can buy online? No idea what pump is down there or how deep. I probably should have said that all of my information is for entertainment purposes. Any DIY is at your own risk... I hate the world we live in. Be careful with capacitors. You could become electrocuted. Changing the cover is easy, but more expensive. There is also a relay inside of those. The relays are not hard to take apart and inspect the contact points. If you feel comfortable. Look for a label on the capacitor that shows the capacitance value and the voltage rating. The capacitance is usually expressed in microfarads (µF), nanofarads (nF), or picofarads (pF). The voltage rating is the maximum voltage that the capacitor can withstand, and it is usually followed by a V, VDC, VDCW, or WV2 I'm kind of doing this quickly. I may not give the best information. This is an awesome video. Most of them are bad following their advice would be wrong.  How to Troubleshoot Franklin Electric Control Boxes (1.5 - 15 HP) I linked the wrong one I don't have time to link the right one. I'll try to later when I do. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:16:48 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheWellGuy: Bob rice died. I can't remember his boy's name. But he still has a hell of a tractor collection. It was on Lazelle Road. Pretty area just off of a busy highway. Thanks. I did some business with them before getting into another career. Then I lost track of them. I knew Bob and his Daughter but can't recall her name. Phil Adams handled this area. Used to go to the Goulds Shindigs they had. Always thought they were good people. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:19:05 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By prossound: @TheWellGuy I need to pull and stack 250’ of steel pipe to switch over to poly and a solar pump. I have a tractor with a fel. Any tips or tricks ? It's hard not to get underneath of these things because they go straight up and down. If something gets dropped, a wire could wrap around somebody's arm or leg. A seat belt out of a junk car would pick the damn thing up, but good straps. Good clamps to hold it, so you can grab the next section. You could purchase something specially made. Two pieces of wood with bolts on the sides would hold it. Don't drop it. The column will be full of water. If you cut one side it will spray out you dont have to get wet. Fold it over and lay it on the ground. Stack them and roll out your pipe to measure. Don't make the wire too tight but put it on the inside or give it a little arch. So that it's not slack and rubs. A lot of people by pumps because the wire has rubbed. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:20:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By wienerman1961: Thanks. I did some business with them before getting into another career. Then I lost track of them. I knew Bob and his Daughter but can't recall her name. Phil Adams handled this area. Used to go to the Goulds Shindigs they had. Always thought they were good people. Bob sent me to pump school at Goulds in Seneca Falls New York, They took me to a restaurant and I ate a steak I'll never forget. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:21:38 AM EDT
[#31]
What's your opinion on long term drinking RO and/or DI water with very low conductivity?
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:22:41 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ZW17: @AJE Can you move this thread over to the DIY forum so I can tack this and save it? This poster is a goldmine of info in his trade. I don't want this thread lost to the achieves. Somebody @ me when this has happened so I can start responding without checking to see when for no reason. I'm very busy. 
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Posted: 2/29/2024 8:28:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By nowgrn4: What's your opinion on long term drinking RO and/or DI water with very low conductivity? I love the taste of RO water. It's what I drink at home. It will lack minerals and electrolytes that were filtered out such as calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium. These minerals and electrolytes help regulate blood pressure, nerve function, muscle contraction, and bone health. It will be acidic. It will be bad for your teeth. I don't drink it with a straw but you could. Depending on the water lines copper galvanized, the acidity will leach out zinc lead etc. Don't do it if you have kidney disease, diabetes, or a history of heart failure. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:00:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: aod886]
[#34]
@thewellguy
I'm actually in the market for a new pump. I'm on the original from 1995. I believe the "ball valve" (?) Is bad. Allowing water to run in reverse. The pump will run to repressure the system every 20 min or so. It's only on for a few min, at most. I replaced the pressure tank and T this past fall. What is your recommended pump? This is my current...  Attached FileThank you for the thread! Edit to add info: The well is 85' deep. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:17:51 AM EDT
[#35]
I'll be putting a well on the 30 acres I'm purchasing, I've never dealt with a well before. Anything I should pay attention to or look out for during the whole process? I realize that is a really general question but as this is all new to me I have no idea where to begin. Granted this will be a few years out so I haven't started research on the subject yet either.
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:24:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: deerranger]
[#36]
@TheWellGuy
Thanks for doing this thread, you are a credit to the forum! I put in a 9 acre orchard on my land last spring, 620 trees. I need to water them once a week in the summertime through the irrigation I installed, last year I did it with a water truck. This year I plan to dig a shallow well with my excavator, we are on the edge of a very large swamp. I do not have electricity as it is far away from the road. My plan is to use a piece of 4' double wall culvert pipe buried on end on the edge of the swamp and get it as deep as I can, even durring the driest time of the year the water table is only 12" down, digging is going to suck because the sand collapses due to the water untill I hit a pea gravel layer. My question is, should I put a piece of silt cloth under the pipe (I have a large piece) with stone or should I just drop the pipe in and hope for the best? Should I perforate the plastic pipe with a drill or a .22 around the bottom or just count on the water coming up from the bottom? I only need to pump 600 gallons per week but as I have to use a generator I would like to just run it for a hour and feed the whole orchard at once but I did split it so I can feed 1/2 at a time If I need to wich would mean running the generator 2 hours a week. I did put in a home made filter system that will be 20' from the well.  Attached File Attached File |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:38:38 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MethaneMover: The water well at the lake has that sulphur smell. We don't use it for potable water, just irrigation. Is there something I can apply to the well bore to treat that? Common problem with wells near fresh water lakes/rivers for some reason. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:41:17 AM EDT
[#38]
Off topic?
I used to have the materials to assemble pvc tube with flapper valve to manually draw water from well. I left it with the house when we sold and moved out of state. Now I want to do it or something similar again. Are you aware of what issues I should consider when thinking about how to manually draw water from a well, let’s say 150’ deep. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:58:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Eyeore1966]
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By prossound: @TheWellGuy I need to pull and stack 250' of steel pipe to switch over to poly and a solar pump. I have a tractor with a fel. Any tips or tricks ? When we needed to lift the drive pipe for what ever reason we would get 2 big pipe wrenches on the drive pipe to hold it, lift the pipe thread w/coupling clear of the casing then slip the modified cap on and snug it down. Pipe coupling would not slip past the modified cap on the casing so we could do what was needed without issue then reverse the process to Lots of pucker factor when holding that pipe with pipe wrenches cause you are screwed if you drop it. For really old school guys we used a wood post frame, pulley and the rope was wrapped around a modified truck wheel and bolted up to a idling Chevy Luv truck jacked up on one side to lift and drop the drive weight We chipped out a cavity in the limestone at the bottom with the drive point and then blew sugar sand out with a trailer air compressor. It was awesome water. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 10:14:28 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheWellGuy: Somebody @ me when this has happened so I can start responding without checking to see when for no reason. I'm very busy. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheWellGuy: Originally Posted By ZW17: @AJE Can you move this thread over to the DIY forum so I can tack this and save it? This poster is a goldmine of info in his trade. I don't want this thread lost to the achieves. Somebody @ me when this has happened so I can start responding without checking to see when for no reason. I'm very busy. @ZW17 @TheWellGuy as requested |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 10:32:37 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MethaneMover: Really just us and the neighbors. He used to pour a little bleach down hole to kill the smell, but it wasnt a permanent solution. But, this is strictly for irrigation. It's not an issue, just curious. @MethaneMover My cousin has sulfur in the water at one of his houses. The builder installed a chlorine injection system which takes care of the odor bacteria. Injection pump runs when the well pump does. An ounce or less of sodium hypochlorite per pump cycle. The system is far from free but is easier than dumping bleach down a well on a regular basis. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 2/29/2024 10:52:25 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheWellGuy: It's hard not to get underneath of these things because they go straight up and down. If something gets dropped, a wire could wrap around somebody's arm or leg. A seat belt out of a junk car would pick the damn thing up, but good straps. Good clamps to hold it, so you can grab the next section. You could purchase something specially made. Two pieces of wood with bolts on the sides would hold it. Don't drop it. The column will be full of water. If you cut one side it will spray out you dont have to get wet. Fold it over and lay it on the ground. Stack them and roll out your pipe to measure. Don't make the wire too tight but put it on the inside or give it a little arch. So that it's not slack and rubs. A lot of people by pumps because the wire has rubbed. Thank you |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 11:25:05 AM EDT
[#43]
I tacked this thread at the top of the page as a wonderful resource, for anybody with questions about their well
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Posted: 2/29/2024 1:08:07 PM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By TheWellGuy: Bob sent me to pump school at Goulds in Seneca Falls New York, They took me to a restaurant and I ate a steak I'll never forget. Originally Posted By Eyeore1966: TheWellGuy knows this of course but commonly an aerator is installed that essentially takes the water from the well and sprays it (i.e. aerating) it to dissipate the sulphur and then into a pressure tank for normal use. That pretty much solves the issue when working correctly and many people rely on them for their potable water supply. Common problem with wells near fresh water lakes/rivers for some reason. Originally Posted By joesig: @MethaneMover My cousin has sulfur in the water at one of his houses. The builder installed a chlorine injection system which takes care of the odor bacteria. Injection pump runs when the well pump does. An ounce or less of sodium hypochlorite per pump cycle. The system is far from free but is easier than dumping bleach down a well on a regular basis. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 4:18:31 PM EDT
[#45]
Before I ask, I know that the answer is generally don't do that.
At my place I share a well with 3 others. Well house is a good 125-150 yards away and I am the furthest away, and about 50-60' higher than the well. Steel casing 6", and maybe 60 yards from a small lake/big pond. Yes, before you ask rock starts about 24" down (side of the mountain. Since I now have a neighbor young/able enough to help we plan on rebuilding/replumbing in the spring. I think the depth is 120' pump around 80'. Piping underground is 1 1/4 abs going out. Pump replaced 3 years ago I think 1 hp.(Submerged ) 40/60 switch, and a short maybe 10-12 gallon pressure tank that I am sure is waterlogged now (will be replaced). No issues with pressure per se, and am limping the pressure tank along untill spring, just adding air which I difficult. Low pressure faucets, and I do leave the supply valve for the washing machine cut back. It does eat pressure switches though maybe 2-3 a year. Besides adding valves to isolate components for maintenance, and making it taller with a man door (currently hinged tip up 4x4 a frame roof with pressure treated lumber and heavy) what changes would you suggest? Also I'm the only person on it full-time. Yes we do have plans to split the system in the future and add an additional well so demand will be less. Thanks in advance. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 7:22:15 PM EDT
[#46]
I'm here, but I just got home. When I'm on a crew with 5 guys. If I spend ten minutes, I've just wasted an hour. I tell everyone family's more important than work. I try not to keep people away from their family. You can give people more money but if you don't give them time to spend it, they'll quit. I'm only gonna have less than three hours with my kids tonight. As soon as they go to bed, I'm going to answer everything in the order it was asked.
The morning's the best time. My family's not up. I have to be quiet. The guys don't want to go to work earlier than six. Keep them coming. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:26:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By aod886: @thewellguy I'm actually in the market for a new pump. The pump will run to repressure the system every 20 min or so. It's only on for a few min, at most. I replaced the pressure tank and T this past fall. What is your recommended pump? The water is definitely going somewhere. Look and listen for a leak in the well. If it is above the water level, you can see or hear it. Pull the pump up with a 1’ pipe with a tee on the top. The tee will give you something to pick up on. It will prevent you from dropping the pump into the well and give you something to tap on. It will probably be stuck inside of the pitless. Pull it up until you can see the pitless that you screwed into and see if the waterline is full. If it’s not, the problem is in the well. If it is full, the problem is not. You probably don’t need a new pump. The Franklin Electric motor is still the correct answer today. The “wet end” was the cheapest model of a good brand. Plastic doesn’t hold a fitting well. Plastic male is better than plastic female because pipe threads have a taper and if you over tighten them, they will split. If you get the pump out, you may find the top of the pump where the fitting screws into it split. If that is what you find, loosen clamps on the waterline and unscrew the fitting from the pump. Put an all stainless steel clamp on the plastic part of the pump without the fitting in it. The clamp will prevent the pump from splitting. The instructions for that pump would have said: Do not use anything on the threads. Screw them in dry, hand tight +1/2 turn. If you put anything on the threads, it will lubricate them and allow them to go in tighter than they should. The clamp will let you get them tighter, but don’t overdo it again. You have to feel it. It won’t give as much resistance as you want. This is probably the problem. If the pump looks good, don’t touch it. Take the fitting out of the pitless adapter and install a 6’ or 8’ brass or stainless nipple and check valve and screw that back on the fitting. Make sure the arrow on the check valve is going the way you want the water to. If the pump was good, we could have installed the check valve on the tank tee and done almost the same thing. Submersible pumps stainless steel franklin electric. Jet pump cast iron Goulds. The shallow ones come in a HP for high pressure. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:30:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ciraxis: I'll be putting a well on the 30 acres I'm purchasing, I've never dealt with a well before. Anything I should pay attention to or look out for during the whole process? I realize that is a really general question but as this is all new to me I have no idea where to begin. Granted this will be a few years out so I haven't started research on the subject yet either. Talk to the neighbors, ask them who they hired and how their well is. Read reviews. Pay up front or pay way more later. Quality is cheap. Cheap is expensive. https://www.nj.gov/dep/njgs/functions/index.htm |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:31:57 PM EDT
[#49]
Originally Posted By TheWellGuy: Ask me anything @ me if someone ever needs help in the future and you want to see something neat happen. Bought a house in September with an ~140ft well. Water comes out the top. Called the company that drilled it and they don't seem concerned. Should I be? Well was dug in the 90's, and it was an extremely wet summer in NH. What are signs my pump may be going out before it dies so I can look out for it? As far as I know its the OG pump. |
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Posted: 2/29/2024 9:36:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: TheWellGuy]
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By deerranger: @TheWellGuy Thanks for doing this thread, you are a credit to the forum! I I hit a pea gravel layer. My question is, should I put a piece of silt cloth under the pipe (I have a large piece) with stone or should I just drop the pipe in and hope for the best? Should I perforate the plastic pipe with a drill or a .22 around the bottom or just count on the water coming up from the bottom? I only need to pump 600 gallons per week but as I have to use a generator I would like to just run it for a hour and feed the whole orchard at once but I did split it so I can feed 1/2 at a time If I need to wich would mean running the generator 2 hours a week. I did put in a home made filter system that will be 20' from the well. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/413300/1000002183_jpg-3144746.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/413300/1000002470_jpg-3144749.JPG Wait until it’s as dry as possible. Get your pipe down into the gravel as far from the sand as you can. Backfill with gravel in the gravel area, but stop a little low. Use plastic concrete or clay dirt above to separate and keep out the sand . The velocity of water moving is your enemy. If it starts to suck sand, do it again. Use a small gas pump if you’re going to run a gas motor anyway. Ten gallons a minute for an hour is six hundred gallons. Drain the pump if it could freeze in the winter. |
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