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Posted: 2/24/2024 10:28:21 AM EDT
start off by saying I am an analog man stuck in a digital world.
I am an Aviation buff and happen to live in a flight path for the local airport
I have watched numerous videos explaining how to set up a digital camera for Aviation pics (basically planes flying) and it's still like chinese to me...
Please excuse my ignorance on terminology and try and explain like I am completely stupid...
I shoot free hand while using a panning motion to follow the moving aircraft
here's what I have...
Canon EOS Rebel T3 with 75-300mm lense
settings are as follows according to youtube vids
M (manual)
1/1000 I adjust according to light conditions
F8.0
ISO 200

here are a few photos I took.. any and all help would be appreciated





Link Posted: 2/24/2024 11:52:31 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Urimaginaryfrnd] [#1]
The higher the shutter speed the better. So you can try to increase shutter speed but to offset that you either use higher ASA film or you open the aperture which decreases depth of field.   Realize that color print film has a latitude of about two stops over and three stops under.   If you were using black and white film and could push process the development of the film before it hits the fixer you could take 1000 ASA and bump it to 8000ASA but it gets very grainy. With items that movement is not an issue you can shoot very low ASA like Kodachrome 25 ASA to get an extremely sharp color positive and print on duratrans then back light that. Problem is nobody processes that stuff anymore. Bang head here.
400 ASA.  F8 1/1000 is same as
400 ASA.   F5.6 1/2000  Is same as. (Less depth of field)
200 ASA.   F8  1/500. Is same as    (Less grain)
800 ASA.   F8.    1/2000. Is same as (More grain)
It’s always a trade off but keep in mind that with color print film you have about 2 stops over that will be useable allowing you to run a higher. Shutter speed slightly under exposing the film while freezing motion with the fast shutter speed. Try to max out the shutter speed on fast moving objects even if that means you are under exposing film by two stops. Can’t do that with transparency / slide film only with print film .  Transparency film exposure must be exact.  Having a fast lens helps because you gain a couple stops so 300 mm lens that is fixed power with max aperture of F4 is less expensive than one that is F2.8 and every increment matters if you shoot low ASA film like 25 ASA or 50 ASA especially in low light.  The other way to freeze motion is with flash like studio lights.

If your Max Shutter Speed 1/4000 seconds bump that shutter speed up your focus is at infinity you can open the lens to max aperture and still have enough light and enough depth of field Experiment with it.
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