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Posted: 3/28/2024 10:06:34 AM EDT
I have a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon with 121000 miles on it. The body is in great shape. I brought it to the mechanic to check the brakes, & he called me back & said the brakes were ok, but there are other major issues. He had it on the lift & showed me the brake backing plates on the rear were rotting away. The gas tank shield is also rotting, I need 4 new shocks, and am leaking oil. He hasn't given me an estimate, but he said he couldn't in good conscience go ahead with repairs because "I have to sleep at night". I asked his son, who seems to be the head mechanic, to write up an estimate for me. This Jeep is my around-town dog hauler. I rarely drive it more than 20 or 30 miles in a day, usually less. I had planned on running it into the ground, maybe I already have? I hope not. How much would you sink into this to get a few more years out of it, or is it done? I'll post a couple pics later, it's pouring out right now. Thanks!
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Sounds like a jeep. Id keep it till the repairs exceed the value of the rig.
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Sounds like typical wear for a vehicle that has seen winter use.
Nothing that you've described sounds like it's fatal. Probably not going to be the cheapest repair to do it all, but from what you've described it's far from "I have to sleep at night". |
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A Jeep is one of the most affordable vehicles to fix.
You can find a zillion aftermarket parts on EBay and Amazon A set of 4 shocks are under $40 a piece. And the oil leak? Depends on how severe and where it is. Oil pan gasket or valve cover gasket is easy. |
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"The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the boogaloo, whose face is marred by pixels and ink and cheetos.”,
Teddy the Toad, (w,stte), "The Derpmen" |
Originally Posted By doc_Zox: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/3097/78BA2D87-4612-466F-A6AE-9165C2B54A37-3171709.jpgSounds like the V6 oil cooler leak that was a fun 5 hours in the driveway this winter View Quote Wrong engine for his 2007. |
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As long as the frame is good I wouldn't be afraid. Usually the cheapest vehicle to drive is the one you already own.
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Repair it. Get takeoff shocks, gas tank skid and buy new backing plates. 121k isn't much as long as it's properly maintained. I've fixed much worse.
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All of that sounds pretty fixable to me.
I have an even older beater farm jeep. I probably averaged $500 a year in repairs over the first 5 years I had it, but it's in a pretty decent place now where it's just oil changes and greasing 87 jerks. |
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That thing's a disaster! It's unsafe! You need to get rid of it RIGHT NOW! I'll take it off your hands for you and save you the cost of all that work (and more, no doubt). PM me your location and I'll arrange pickup. |
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I have an 04. I'm running it til the wheels fall off.
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For our struggle is not against flesh and blood, but against the rulers, against the powers, against the world forces of this darkness, against the spiritual forces of wickedness in the heavenly places.
-Ephesians 6:12 |
Brake backing plates? Doesn’t that have disc brakes?
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The salt slurry they use on the roads these days is incredibly corrosive. I hate what it does to vehicles.
There are shops all around New England that do lots of Jeep repairs of the type that you need. If there is a local Jeep club, find out who they recommend. |
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Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
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I also have a 2007 (Sahara JKU), and a 2012/2015/2015 Rubicon JKUs (sorry humble brag, 5 drivers in my house). I do most of my own work.
I just replaced the 2007's gas tank skid plate myself in the garage...not hard at all and oddly the part was available from Walmart for the best price. Those issues don't sound bad at all to me. Depending on what your mechanic wants to charge, maybe you need to shop around. Kudos to @doc_Zox for doing the oil adapter himself...I opted to pay $800 and let my mechanic deal with it on the one 2015. |
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Mine needs the gas tank shield replaced, but it's not hard and not that expensive, and appears to be plenty of better aftermarket options. Shocks are easy to do and not that expensive. Make sure you spray fluid film under your vehicle every fall.
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I have a 2010 JKU Sahara. The wear you mentioned is normal consumable type stuff. You can't drive it forever without doing something. I've replaced shocks, shock bolts, bushings, brakes of course, tires of course, plugs, plug wires, etc...
As you mentioned that model series are amazing when it comes to rust resistance. I don't know what they did to them but the bodies, if taken even remotely care of, just don't seem to rust. Mine still looks brand new. I would keep it and enjoy it. The cost is minimal considering everything else. |
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The devil's got my number.
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It's not an LJ so yeah, dump it.
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Jeeps are supposed to leak oil
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Originally Posted By farmer-dave: Mine needs the gas tank shield replaced, but it's not hard and not that expensive, and appears to be plenty of better aftermarket options. Shocks are easy to do and not that expensive. Make sure you spray fluid film under your vehicle every fall. View Quote maybe you found something I didn't? the only aftermarket I found is Dorman, otherwise it's OEM. Lots of aftermarket skid plates that protect the OEM plate but they don't do the same thing (hold up the gas tank)... |
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It needs some maintainence and you want to dump it? Yea you are probably better off getting something new. When you do,run it through the car wash once in a while.
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I aint doin nothing,but doing nothing means a lot to me.
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People crap on the 3.8. Yes, it's a dog, but it's pretty fucking bulletproof. I have a 2010 Sahara with similar issues. I've just been knocking them out, one at a time. I forgot if it was the engine oil or trans pan, one of them had rusted to a point of being paper thin. Actually poked a hole in it during removal.
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Posterity! You will never know, how much it cost the present Generation, to preserve your Freedom! I hope you will make a good Use of it. If you do not, I shall repent in Heaven, that I ever took half the Pains to preserve it.---John Adams
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I aint doin nothing,but doing nothing means a lot to me.
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The stock skid plate and shocks are typically free, sometimes $10 each on any of the social media market sites.
If you need stock take off parts it always pays to look on-line first: shocks, skid plates, sway bar links, tires/wheels ... and to a lessor extent: sway bars, track rods, control arms, and front and rear bumpers. The club I was with in SoCal had a market place on their board and there was always "free to a good home" or "pick a part" from brand new take offs, to widows selling off their husband's hobby, to the occasional wrecked-in-traffic Jeep. |
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Celebrating the remains of the Second Amendment one Fine Firearm at a Time. I might be old but I saw the world before it when to shit.
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Originally Posted By farmer-dave: Mine needs the gas tank shield replaced, but it's not hard and not that expensive, and appears to be plenty of better aftermarket options. Shocks are easy to do and not that expensive. Make sure you spray fluid film under your vehicle every fall. View Quote Or go aluminum which rusts much more slowly. They are thicker and lighter for the same strength and I have no regrets going with aluminum. We did occasional alkaline lake beds and salt slurry bogs in SoCal, and now in Michigan the salts on the roads. |
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Celebrating the remains of the Second Amendment one Fine Firearm at a Time. I might be old but I saw the world before it when to shit.
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Originally Posted By doc_Zox: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/3097/78BA2D87-4612-466F-A6AE-9165C2B54A37-3171709.jpgSounds like the V6 oil cooler leak that was a fun 5 hours in the driveway this winter View Quote 5 hours? lol Took me like an hour, including plugs. |
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Evil is a puppet master, and it loves nothing so much as the mindless puppets who enable it
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Sounds like you have little to no mechanical capabilities and are looking for a reason to sell it.
So with that in mind, yes I would recommend you sell it. |
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Originally Posted By Squeefoo: 5 hours? lol Took me like an hour, including plugs. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Squeefoo: Originally Posted By doc_Zox: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/3097/78BA2D87-4612-466F-A6AE-9165C2B54A37-3171709.jpgSounds like the V6 oil cooler leak that was a fun 5 hours in the driveway this winter 5 hours? lol Took me like an hour, including plugs. And if you don't "bump" the ratchet handle to break the cap loose the plastic one will never break. |
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Oil is cheap. Dust shields are not really that big of a deal (unless you need them to keep the emergency brake hardware working). I have a 2008 Grand Cherokee it is a rust bucket but as long as I can fix it and it will pass inspection I will likely keep it. It is our 3rd car and we don't drive it all that much.
Rust sucks. |
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I got rid of mine at 189K miles. Had all sorts of rust, but the real problem was worn main and rod bearings. Started to develop a knock in the lower end. I loaded it up with motor honey and sold it to a local dealership and got good money for it.
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Oil leak, needs 4 shocks, brake parts and a shield for the gas tank? And you’re thinking about dumping it?
Fix the oil leak yourself or don’t, lots of older vehicles leak oil. A lot of stock parts for vehicles that are popular to upgrade can be found everywhere if you look hard enough. You sound like my Dad, it needs new brakes, tires and shocks, time to trade it in for something new that doesn’t need maintenance items. If you enjoy making payments, then by all means go ahead and dump it but also enjoy your future of making payments on something that was designed by the UAW after Covid. It likely will not be on the road nearly as long as your old jeep that had very minor issues that needed repair. The mechanic will probably quote you a hefty sum of cash for parts he will buy on Facebook marketplace or get nearly free from some place as take offs that have been lingering in some guys garage attic for the last 15 years. I did similar before I became my own mechanic. My Camaro had problems idling, I spent $700 for diagnostics and the only thing the mechanic could tell me was it still wasn’t running right. I picked it up and drove it home with my foot on the gas pedal at lights to keep it running. I spent a week on various car forums learning about how to fix my own car. $10 for an idle air control valve and it was fixed. Engine idled like it was new. I had every reason to be a nobody in mechanics most women cringe at breaking a nail. I’ve swapped 2 engines, 3 transmissions, 2 axles, and built 1 complete car, repaired a blown out spark plug on my daily driver, and done fluid changes myself for as long as I can remember. I taught my Dad how to work on his vehicles. I was only 16 when I started learning how to do my own maintenance. It’s time you pick up the ball and be your own mechanic. |
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I'll give you $7500 for it.
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I replaced the rear brake pads on my 2017 JKU a few months ago. The calipers made it impossible to use the cheap piston pusher, but I got it done with a woodworking clamp and some ingenuity.
The tires are about due for a replacement this year or the next, and that's going to be expensive unless I can find some take-offs for cheap somewhere. |
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Seems manageable to me if it's an extra vehicle.
Get the backing plates replaced when it's time, maybe wait until it actually needs new pads/rotors. Are the shocks really bad or just worn? If it's an extra vehicle who cares if they are worn. Gas tank shield, who cares about that. Oil leaks, identify what is it and how bad its leaking. Might be something somewhat manageable like valve covers. You can wait until it's bad, just keep checking your oil level. Again it's an extra vehicle. |
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Those are all easily-corrected issues. Not to mention, Wranglers are like AR15s: Parts are available everywhere, and they're relatively easily swapped.
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A winner never quits, and a quitter never wins. Get comfortable being uncomfortable.
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Originally Posted By Jambalaya: I replaced the rear brake pads on my 2017 JKU a few months ago. The calipers made it impossible to use the cheap piston pusher, but I got it done with a woodworking clamp and some ingenuity. The tires are about due for a replacement this year or the next, and that's going to be expensive unless I can find some take-offs for cheap somewhere. View Quote I still see factory Wrangler wheels/tires all the time for sale - many with very few miles on them since folks like to go with aftermarket stuff right after buying the vehicle. |
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A winner never quits, and a quitter never wins. Get comfortable being uncomfortable.
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I grew up in and have a lot of relatives still in the Maine, NH, VT, upstate NY, and Quebec/NB areas.
If you were in the south and not right on the coast, that vehicle would probably still be fine from those issues. The best bang for the buck right now for you would be to come south, grab yourself a low mileage X-Terra/Pathfinder from like 2010-2012, And bring it home. Or, if you don’t care about bang for the buck grab a new 4Runner or Wranger. Either way- Spray the living shit out of the bottom of your new vehicle with oil. Then do it again. It can be old/used oil. Do that every year. It will seriously retard/delay the issues your Jeep has. |
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sell it and buy a 392
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Endeavor to Persevere
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If you're mechanically inclined, easy fixes to do yourself (assuming oil leak isn't anything major like a rear main or axle seal... which aren't terrible but somewhat more involved than a bolt on fix).
Sounds to me like it's due for a lift kit which usually come with 4 new shocks anyways. |
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WTB SR-25 ACC 16" Upper
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Originally Posted By TSLtrek: yes. probably means brake dust shields? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TSLtrek: Originally Posted By Boomer: Brake backing plates? Doesn't that have disc brakes? yes. probably means brake dust shields? Vehicle needs complete rear brake job including parking brake shoes & backing plates. Gas tank skid plate is rotted. Engine has oil leaks. |
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Originally Posted By bgenlvtex: Sounds like you have little to no mechanical capabilities and are looking for a reason to sell it. So with that in mind, yes I would recommend you sell it. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By Paul: The stock skid plate and shocks are typically free, sometimes $10 each on any of the social media market sites. If you need stock take off parts it always pays to look on-line first: shocks, skid plates, sway bar links, tires/wheels ... and to a lessor extent: sway bars, track rods, control arms, and front and rear bumpers. The club I was with in SoCal had a market place on their board and there was always "free to a good home" or "pick a part" from brand new take offs, to widows selling off their husband's hobby, to the occasional wrecked-in-traffic Jeep. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By 14BoltFF: I still see factory Wrangler wheels/tires all the time for sale - many with very few miles on them since folks like to go with aftermarket stuff right after buying the vehicle. View Quote Yeah I have been looking at the classifieds and it looks like I can get some take-offs for about half what new tires would cost, and the take-offs come with wheels and TPMS sensors. |
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What's the difference between a nuclear weapon and a grenade launcher? I don't own a nuclear weapon.
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Rip off the backing plates, swap the tank skid, and run it with shitty shocks.
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If you want to view paradise, simply look around and view it.
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Jeeps don't leak oil, they mark their territory.
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I will almost never pass up an opportunity to shit on Heep, but that sounds like mostly piddly shit. A heat shield? So what.
As for the brakes, are we talking about the dust shield for discs or rear shoes riding on a backing plate. If the latter, yeah that could be a problem. |
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Originally Posted By sitdwnandhngon: Rip off the backing plates, swap the tank skid, and run it with shitty shocks. View Quote Non drum, so the backing plates hold the emergency brake hardware. OP, check Crown for the backing plates Backing plate usually any of the Jeep aftermarket parts slingers offer a cheap tank skid. |
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Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.
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