User Panel
Posted: 3/30/2024 10:53:21 PM EDT
So I started using my edge finder inside the hole using the dro half function to get really close really quickly.
They I set up my indicator and I'm so close that I'm on center in a couple minutes. I don't know why I didn't think of using them together before. So much less fiddling. If the hole is smaller I start with a 1/2" pointed rod to eyeball the center before I set up the test indicator. |
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Where the sheepdog is banned the wolves feast.
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[#1]
Use the indicator for the edge finder step, no need to change tool. Use the dro still.
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[#2]
Originally Posted By User55645: Use the indicator for the edge finder step, no need to change tool. Use the dro still. View Quote The whole point of the edge finder steep was to speed up the indicator set up. Almost zero fiddling with the indicator. No need to reposition the indicator several times. |
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Where the sheepdog is banned the wolves feast.
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[#3]
Originally Posted By batmanacw: The whole point of the edge finder steep was to speed up the indicator set up. Almost zero fiddling with the indicator. No need to reposition the indicator several times. View Quote You might be misunderstanding. With the indicator in the spindle, rotate it to either the + or - side of an axis, inside the hole. Run the part into the dial, until it hits a number (irrelevant what number but remember). Zero DRO. Rotate dial 180 (precision not required) and redo. Move axis half the distance back, just like you'd do for an edge finder. Do the other axis. Now, zero using the "dial method". This is the "exact" method used for an edge finder (finding rough zero), without having to make a tool change. |
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I'm not lazy, I just really enjoy doing nothing.
USA
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[#4]
Originally Posted By User55645: You might be misunderstanding. With the indicator in the spindle, rotate it to either the + or - side of an axis, inside the hole. Run the part into the dial, until it hits a number (irrelevant what number but remember). Zero DRO. Rotate dial 180 (precision not required) and redo. Move axis half the distance back, just like you'd do for an edge finder. Do the other axis. Now, zero using the "dial method". This is the "exact" method used for an edge finder (finding rough zero), without having to make a tool change. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By User55645: Originally Posted By batmanacw: The whole point of the edge finder steep was to speed up the indicator set up. Almost zero fiddling with the indicator. No need to reposition the indicator several times. You might be misunderstanding. With the indicator in the spindle, rotate it to either the + or - side of an axis, inside the hole. Run the part into the dial, until it hits a number (irrelevant what number but remember). Zero DRO. Rotate dial 180 (precision not required) and redo. Move axis half the distance back, just like you'd do for an edge finder. Do the other axis. Now, zero using the "dial method". This is the "exact" method used for an edge finder (finding rough zero), without having to make a tool change. Attached File |
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you.
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[#5]
Pin gauges are a down and dirty way to copy something.
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[#6]
Originally Posted By User55645: You might be misunderstanding. With the indicator in the spindle, rotate it to either the + or - side of an axis, inside the hole. Run the part into the dial, until it hits a number (irrelevant what number but remember). Zero DRO. Rotate dial 180 (precision not required) and redo. Move axis half the distance back, just like you'd do for an edge finder. Do the other axis. Now, zero using the "dial method". This is the "exact" method used for an edge finder (finding rough zero), without having to make a tool change. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By User55645: Originally Posted By batmanacw: The whole point of the edge finder steep was to speed up the indicator set up. Almost zero fiddling with the indicator. No need to reposition the indicator several times. You might be misunderstanding. With the indicator in the spindle, rotate it to either the + or - side of an axis, inside the hole. Run the part into the dial, until it hits a number (irrelevant what number but remember). Zero DRO. Rotate dial 180 (precision not required) and redo. Move axis half the distance back, just like you'd do for an edge finder. Do the other axis. Now, zero using the "dial method". This is the "exact" method used for an edge finder (finding rough zero), without having to make a tool change. Okay...cool! I'll try it. Thank you. |
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Where the sheepdog is banned the wolves feast.
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[#7]
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Originally Posted By JLPettimoreIII:
bruh. 87% of Gee Dee couldn't get laid in a Thai brothel with a black AMEX and a kilo of the finest blow on the planet. |
[#8]
Originally Posted By MethaneMover: Putting the 3/8"/dovetail adapter on the front of the DTI make it easier to see the dial at any orientation. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By MethaneMover: Originally Posted By batmanacw: Okay...cool! I'll try it. Thank you. For that top dial Interapid I use a spindle mounted Indicol copy that works super nice. I keep a side mounted Interapid in a decent clamp style Indicol like in the picture. Attached File |
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Where the sheepdog is banned the wolves feast.
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[#9]
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Where the sheepdog is banned the wolves feast.
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I'm not lazy, I just really enjoy doing nothing.
USA
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[#10]
Originally Posted By batmanacw: For that top dial Interapid I use a spindle mounted Indicol copy that works super nice. I keep a side mounted Interapid in a decent clamp style Indicol like in the picture. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/110628/20240331_091231_jpg-3175036.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By batmanacw: Originally Posted By MethaneMover: Originally Posted By batmanacw: Okay...cool! I'll try it. Thank you. For that top dial Interapid I use a spindle mounted Indicol copy that works super nice. I keep a side mounted Interapid in a decent clamp style Indicol like in the picture. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/110628/20240331_091231_jpg-3175036.JPG Depending on how precise you need to be, you may need to indicate over pins set at the pitch diameter of the teeth. |
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you.
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[Last Edit: batmanacw]
[#11]
Originally Posted By Cycolac: Depending on how precise you need to be, you may need to indicate over pins set at the pitch diameter of the teeth. View Quote I just needed to avoid run-out on an 88 year old lathe. I got it dramatically better than it was. It is far more accurate than the clearance it needs to run. I had it within 0.0005" on the tips of the teeth. Plenty close enough for this project. I used about 0.010" of clearance to get everything to run smoothly. The feed gear it mates with has a brazed repair that won't allow it to be set too tight. If you saw the brazed up broken gear I trued up today you'd loose your mind. I got it within 0.002" indicated run-out. Trued the bore to the outside diameter and faced both sides. That gear is running true for the first time in decades. |
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Where the sheepdog is banned the wolves feast.
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I'm not lazy, I just really enjoy doing nothing.
USA
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[#12]
Originally Posted By batmanacw: I just needed to avoid run-out on an 88 year old lathe. I got it dramatically better than it was. It is far more accurate than the clearance it needs to run. I had it within 0.0005" on the tips of the teeth. Plenty close enough for this project. If you saw the brazed up broken gear I trued up today you'd loose your mind. I got it within 0.002" indicated run-out. Trued the bore to the outside diameter and faced both sides. That gear hasn't run true in decades. View Quote Gotcha! |
I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you.
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[#13]
Originally Posted By Cycolac: Originally Posted By batmanacw: I just needed to avoid run-out on an 88 year old lathe. I got it dramatically better than it was. It is far more accurate than the clearance it needs to run. I had it within 0.0005" on the tips of the teeth. Plenty close enough for this project. If you saw the brazed up broken gear I trued up today you'd loose your mind. I got it within 0.002" indicated run-out. Trued the bore to the outside diameter and faced both sides. That gear hasn't run true in decades. Gotcha! I have no idea how I posted while posting |
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Where the sheepdog is banned the wolves feast.
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[#14]
Originally Posted By User55645: You might be misunderstanding. With the indicator in the spindle, rotate it to either the + or - side of an axis, inside the hole. Run the part into the dial, until it hits a number (irrelevant what number but remember). Zero DRO. Rotate dial 180 (precision not required) and redo. Move axis half the distance back, just like you'd do for an edge finder. Do the other axis. Now, zero using the "dial method". This is the "exact" method used for an edge finder (finding rough zero), without having to make a tool change. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By User55645: Originally Posted By batmanacw: The whole point of the edge finder steep was to speed up the indicator set up. Almost zero fiddling with the indicator. No need to reposition the indicator several times. You might be misunderstanding. With the indicator in the spindle, rotate it to either the + or - side of an axis, inside the hole. Run the part into the dial, until it hits a number (irrelevant what number but remember). Zero DRO. Rotate dial 180 (precision not required) and redo. Move axis half the distance back, just like you'd do for an edge finder. Do the other axis. Now, zero using the "dial method". This is the "exact" method used for an edge finder (finding rough zero), without having to make a tool change. This is what I do. |
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[#15]
Originally Posted By User55645: You might be misunderstanding. With the indicator in the spindle, rotate it to either the + or - side of an axis, inside the hole. Run the part into the dial, until it hits a number (irrelevant what number but remember). Zero DRO. Rotate dial 180 (precision not required) and redo. Move axis half the distance back, just like you'd do for an edge finder. Do the other axis. Now, zero using the "dial method". This is the "exact" method used for an edge finder (finding rough zero), without having to make a tool change. View Quote Good tip |
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