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Posted: 4/20/2024 2:09:54 PM EDT
So the last 3 prints I have done get to about &0 to 90% then they fail. It gets to a certain point and the prints get stringy. For example this is a benchy test print I did last night.
 Attached FileAlso did the 3D cube and it failed almost at the end as well. Any ideas anyone? |
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Posted: 4/20/2024 2:22:18 PM EDT
[#1]
bed adhesion, you are using a holographic plate that has low adhesion. Use gluestick or Nano 3d printer glue. Or change the plate.
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Posted: 4/20/2024 3:57:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#2]
Swap to a PEI build plate.
Seriously it's amazing. I'll never use anything but textured PEI at this point for PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, CPE, and PCTG. |
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Posted: 4/20/2024 4:16:36 PM EDT
[#3]
Yup, those decorative plates are horrible for adhesion
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Posted: 4/20/2024 8:45:44 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Swap to a PEI build plate. Seriously it's amazing. I'll never use anything but textured PEI at this point for PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS, CPE, and PCTG. My textured Bambu PEI was until it wasn't, I've tried everything, washing, scrubbing, z-offset but even PLA will warp off the surface about 10 layers in for a long narrow print. Smooth PEI with glue is much more reliable and even the plates with the pattern he is using are more reliable with no glue. |
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Posted: 4/20/2024 9:45:58 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By O_Guiness: My textured Bambu PEI was until it wasn't, I've tried everything, washing, scrubbing, z-offset but even PLA will warp off the surface about 10 layers in for a long narrow print. Smooth PEI with glue is much more reliable and even the plates with the pattern he is using are more reliable with no glue. How much have you printed on the sheet, and have you printed PETG without a release agent? PEI plates seem tknlast about 1000 hours or so per side. You can rejuvenate them by doing a full print on the entire sheet. Then use dawn with a stiff bristle brush, and then rinse with cold water, blow it try (don't let it evaporate), and then use alcohol. Worth a shot unless you simply wore it out. |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 12:35:14 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: How much have you printed on the sheet, and have you printed PETG without a release agent? PEI plates seem tknlast about 1000 hours or so per side. You can rejuvenate them by doing a full print on the entire sheet. Then use dawn with a stiff bristle brush, and then rinse with cold water, blow it try (don't let it evaporate), and then use alcohol. Worth a shot unless you simply wore it out. No where near 1k hours, only about 600 total on my X1. Small prints usually do ok but I tried to print a build plate holder today in PLA and it warped like ABS. Maybe I am misunderstanding what you saying, use release on textured plate? I print some PETG but it is not my favorite and mostly use engineering or smooth PEI plate with glue for that. I use ABS, TPU or PLA for most things I design myself. I think I'm going to try scotch brite or steel wool and if that doesn't work just toss it. The off brand patterend plate so far has worked great when sliced as smooth PEI for all prints. I will try your suggestion but are you saying print full plate maybe 1mm thick PETG or PLA? You can see the print releasing from the plate. Bambu PLA Matte. This plate was freshly washed and dried with a Z -0.06 in g-code and it still would not stick. I put in a smooth PEI with glue and it completed flawlessly with the same filament.  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 8:04:41 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By O_Guiness: No where near 1k hours, only about 600 total on my X1. Small prints usually do ok but I tried to print a build plate holder today in PLA and it warped like ABS. Maybe I am misunderstanding what you saying, use release on textured plate? I print some PETG but it is not my favorite and mostly use engineering or smooth PEI plate with glue for that. I use ABS, TPU or PLA for most things I design myself. I think I'm going to try scotch brite or steel wool and if that doesn't work just toss it. The off brand patterend plate so far has worked great when sliced as smooth PEI for all prints. I will try your suggestion but are you saying print full plate maybe 1mm thick PETG or PLA? You can see the print releasing from the plate. Bambu PLA Matte. This plate was freshly washed and dried with a Z -0.06 in g-code and it still would not stick. I put in a smooth PEI with glue and it completed flawlessly with the same filament. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/475357/snip_warping_png-3194079.JPG You dont wven need 1mm. Do two layers. So maybe 0.5mm. Zero reason that shouldn't be sticking. How exactly are you washing and drying it? |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 8:27:02 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: You dont wven need 1mm. Do two layers. So maybe 0.5mm. Zero reason that shouldn't be sticking. How exactly are you washing and drying it? Hot water and dawn. I keep a sponge dedicated to washing the build plates and also use the rough side to scrub the textured plate. Dry with microfiber. Not sure what I'm doing wrong because sometimes it works, sometimes not. I will try your suggestion and dry with hot air. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 4/21/2024 8:42:12 AM EDT
[#9]
Here is the Bambu Wiki for the textured PEI. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/textured-PEI-plate-not-working-as-expected
Prints I did yesterday came out better, no lifting, &;on the last set I even missed adding a brim, yet still didn’t lift. Correct me if I’m wrong, but isn’t PLA lifting a sign of over temp, or is there a happy medium of just right? I haven’t done PLA on the textured PEI plate yet, so curious to see how you get it to stick. |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 11:55:04 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By O_Guiness: Hot water and dawn. I keep a sponge dedicated to washing the build plates and also use the rough side to scrub the textured plate. Dry with microfiber. Not sure what I'm doing wrong because sometimes it works, sometimes not. I will try your suggestion and dry with hot air. Do you have an air compressor? Blow it off if you can. If you let it dry, even with hot air, the minerals in your water will deposit on your build plate. Aka it won't be clean. |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 11:56:57 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gtfoxy: Here is the Bambu Wiki for the textured PEI. https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/textured-PEI-plate-not-working-as-expected Prints I did yesterday came out better, no lifting, &;on the last set I even missed adding a brim, yet still didn’t lift. Correct me if I’m wrong, but isn’t PLA lifting a sign of over temp, or is there a happy medium of just right? I haven’t done PLA on the textured PEI plate yet, so curious to see how you get it to stick. You can certainly go too hot and it will warp off due to temp diff and internal stresses in the part, but its far more common to have a dirty build plate. PLA sticks to textured PEI but it needs to be clean, especially with larger parts. I accidentally printed with my PETG prepped plate (I keep it wiped down with Windex) and PLA will NOT stick to that. 
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Posted: 4/21/2024 5:32:42 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Do you have an air compressor? Blow it off if you can. If you let it dry, even with hot air, the minerals in your water will deposit on your build plate. Aka it won't be clean. Hair dryer works more betterer. |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 6:28:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: I would recommend AGAINST using air from an air compressor. That almost always has oil in it (even just small amounts from blow-by), which is what we want to avoid. Hair dryer works more betterer. Hair dryer evaporates the water leaving the contaminants on the build plate. Unless you use RO water. Compressors generally only have oil at the end tool. I don't run oil anywhere in the tank or lines, and I don't oil my blow gun. But good watch out. That said I've never had an issue doing it that way. |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 7:44:27 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Hair dryer evaporates the water leaving the contaminants on the build plate. Unless you use RO water. Compressors generally only have oil at the end tool. I don't run oil anywhere in the tank or lines, and I don't oil my blow gun. But good watch out. That said I've never had an issue doing it that way. Maybe I'm spoiled having a PCBA lab with RO water, expensive air compressor, etc.
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Posted: 4/21/2024 7:58:10 PM EDT
[#15]
Would canned air be ok?
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Posted: 4/21/2024 8:14:23 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly: Would canned air be ok? |
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Posted: 4/21/2024 8:21:35 PM EDT
[#17]
Don't spray it with the can upside down. Lol
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Posted: 4/21/2024 8:23:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Rat_Patrol]
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SandHillsHillbilly: Don't spray it with the can upside down. Lol 
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Posted: 4/21/2024 8:26:07 PM EDT
[#19]
I imagine so. Lol I would hate to crack the machined bed from thermal shock.
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Posted: 4/21/2024 9:15:20 PM EDT
[#20]
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend actually doing that
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Posted: 4/23/2024 11:09:09 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Yeah, I wouldn't recommend actually doing that So I ran the file again but this time with a raft and used the pei side of the plate and it printed fine. Then changed files to a more complex multi cube print and it needed badly.  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/23/2024 11:11:01 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fullautoguy: So I ran the file again but this time with a raft and used the pei side of the plate and it printed fine. Then changed files to a more complex multi cube print and it needed badly. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/64149/IMG_2681_jpeg-3195829.JPG Layer shift got you there. Was the part coming loose from the bed or other layer shift issue? |
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Posted: 4/24/2024 10:28:43 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Layer shift got you there. Was the part coming loose from the bed or other layer shift issue? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Originally Posted By Fullautoguy: So I ran the file again but this time with a raft and used the pei side of the plate and it printed fine. Then changed files to a more complex multi cube print and it needed badly. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/64149/IMG_2681_jpeg-3195829.JPG Layer shift got you there. Was the part coming loose from the bed or other layer shift issue? Unfortunately I didn’t have my camera recording it. I’m going to run it again tonight with Timelapse on and see if your hunch is correct. |
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Posted: 4/24/2024 10:51:41 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rat_Patrol: Layer shift got you there. Was the part coming loose from the bed or other layer shift issue? I'd assume skipped step based on how big that brim is and how it kept going after the shift for a few layers. Usually a loose part is instant speghetti. |
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