I recently bought a MUHLE traditional R89.  I've used it a few times.  I have some "Shave Butter" I grabbed at Walmart I've been using but I plan to try some shave soap soon.

If I shave every 3rd day I stay pretty clean looking.  I don't grow facial hair fast.  If I wait longer than that with a cartridge razor my stubble will clog the blades.

I've used Astra platinum, Lord Platinum, Feather Platinum, Wellington Sword Platinum, and most recently Treet Platinum.  I've gotten a very minor nick or two each time except my last go with the Treet Platinum.  I had zero nicks or irritation with the Treet Platinum.  I'm not sure if that is just from having more practice at that point or if the blade is right for me and the R89.  I have more blades to try and should probably try the regular non Platinum versions soon.

My main question is should I not expect a clean shave with one pass?  I shave with the grain 95% of the time.  Some areas the second pass I'll go against the grain.  I guess I expected it to be more aggressive.  I get very good shaves but I've taken to just putting a little more shave butter on and making a second pass otherwise I don't end up with the cleanest shave.  I don't mind it taking a little longer but I'm trying to figure out if my technique is just terrible or is it normal to expect a 2nd pass?

Please recommend shave soaps to me.  I prefer more mild scented shaving products.

Is the Muhle r89 a decent razor to start with?  I went on reviews and price. I tried not to buy the cheaper ones but also not to for the highest priced ones.

I don't want to buy Gillette products.  I realize now Astra is owned by Gillette so those are no go now.  I used a Mach 3 for probably 25 years.  Then a Dorco Pace 5.  The Dorco was great at first but at some point the quality took a nose dive but the cost didn't! The double edge razors are so cheap I'm just using them once then pitching them.

I usually do two or three passes, the first with the grain and then against and/or perpendicular to the grain.

My impression from the one Muhle razor I have (which is marketed as their least aggressive razor) is they are pretty aggressively angled. You've got to play a little to find the right combination of razor and blades for your skin. I settled on a Merkur closed comb razor and Feather blades, but have also used a decent number of Astra and Wilkinson blades.

Check out Shannon's soaps, I like her barbershop scent or the unscented. The others are pretty strong. Otherwise, look for something with tallow.

1) Merkur 38C is the classic safety razor. I've been using one for the better part of 15 years.

2) Proraso Shaving Soap. I use the sensitive skin formula. Lathers up really nice with just enough hot water to cover 3/4 of the bottom of the shaving bowl.

3) Crystal "SUPER +" Stainless Steel Platinum Coated Double Edge Safety Razor Blades (30 blades). I tried one of the multi-packs from Classic Shaving, and these blades became my go-to.

My facial hair grows thick, and I usually make one pass WTG, one pass ATG, and one pass XTG to get a close shave.

I wouldn’t be satisfied with a one pass shave with a DE razor.   They say it is beard reduction in passes.  I generally for a regular shave will shave with the grain once, rinse, then shave against the grain.  They do a bit of touch up on the chin and a patch with sideways grain.  If in the mood I’ll do a third across the grain shave too.

I am using plenty of old school gillette blues and yellow 7 o’clock blades.  I bought them in bulk years before Gillette decided to talk down to their customers.  They don’t get my money if I can read a label and see their name.

The other blade I use a lot is the Japanese made Feather.   First shave with each blade should be gentle as you may get weepers. Follow up shaves are sharp but not so overly sharp.

I am currently using Cremo which lathers good with my hard water and is locally available.  Iirc it’s about $6 and a tube lasts months and months for me.  I don’t shave every day anymore.

Williams is about as mild as you will find and available cheaply at walmart’s or the corner drug store if you like soap pucks.  Nearly non scented and pretty slick.


Try the Cremo it’s good, common and available everywhere.   If you’re mail ordering then you  can try Prorrasso but I don’t consider it mildly scented.  I liked it though. It’s a good slick shave.   They may have a scent free version.

I first tried using a traditional double edge safety razor, (something like a Viking Chieftain, but original from the 60's), and it would cut me up very easily.    Even when I tried to shave extremely carefully, I would usually get some significant nicks. (using Feather blades)

Then I decided to try a Henson AL13 razor to compare.   I ordered one, and I have been absolutely satisfied with it.  
It exceeded my expectations, and is just as quick and easy to use as a high-quality disposable razor.  I think they got the optimum blade geometry here - very stable and consistent.  It is a pleasure to use, and I don't cut myself with it.  

I don't plan to ever go back to disposables, especially Gillette.

I have no ties to (or payments from) Henson Shaving; I am just a very satisfied customer who thinks they nailed it with a high-quality product.

It is more expensive than a lot of the razors on Amazon, but you need to realize that unlike them, it is made of solid machined aluminum, not cast zinc.

Get a vintage Gillette from Ebay in your birth year if they make one. Soap try Proraso Shaving Soap with brush. Soak the brush in hot water for several minutes lightly shake of then vigorously wipe up a lather. Clean the brush after use in hot water once all the soap is out lightly shake off then buff it with a towel to shape it like new.


Brush
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PMGJPDW

Soap
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FF77IQC

Experience counts for a lot.   I started out with a Shick Krona razor.  Which is as mild as it gets.  Years later and I’m only using a open-comb Gillette that is over 100 years old.  Aggressive as hell.  

Keep at it.  Don’t over think it.  

I had a similar experience when I tried Feathers. I am of the opinion that they are manufactured exactly the same as an authentic Katana, and have an edge that transcends time and space as we know it.

Just keep shaving and building up your experience and perfecting your technique. You will need to do 2-3 passes typically to get a baby smooth shave. I do 1 passs over everything with the grain, next pass is against the grain on the neck, sideways on the cheeks, chin and stache areas. This point I clean up any little patches on the neck I might still feel, 3rd pass is just against the grain on the cheeks and chin areas. I don’t go against the grain on the upper lip.

Alum block on the skin after the shave is a nice finish can help stop and bleeding on Minor nicks. Then rinse and apply good aftershave.

The more you do it the easier it gets. For me now, the different blades don’t make too much difference in shave quality. Feathers are sharper than anything else, Kai are very sharp but thick blades they don’t hold an edge as long. Derby are good, most blades are pretty decent, but you will know if you find one that doesn’t agree with your skin. Super cheap Dorco blue are only good enough to scrape my aquariums imo, I will never run one on my face again.


My favorite soaps are Proraso green and a local maker
https://phoenixartisanaccoutrements.com/ makes some great soaps and scents, and supplies too, the ceramic scuttle is most excellent for keeping the lather warm

You might try shaving more often. If I shave daily, my skin seems to toughen up and I get zero nicks. If I shave intermittently, I'll get nicks every time I start in. The nicks drop off if I consistently shave daily.

I agree with this.  Razors and blades can be mild to aggressive.  An aggressive razor with super sharp blades (like Feather) can be daunting.  Try different things.  You'll find something that works.

Vintage Gillettes were made way before the company went woke so I have no problem using one.  My main razor is a vintage Gillette Super Speed made when I was born.  I'd say it is a medium razor.  I've found that Gillette Tech razors are pretty mild.    I like the Proraso soaps.  They have a menthol one that I prefer.  I tired a variety pack of razor blades and ended up sticking with Personna blades.

Gillette Super Speed
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Gillette Tech
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That seems to be true.  

Since retiring I may go a few days between shaves.  I have a weeper spot below my chin pretty consistently where I have to shave a patch where the grain doesn’t’t run down but horizontal.  I had that spot all along but only rarely drew the weepers when I shaved every day.

I picked up a Gillette slim adjustable before the wokening.  Even on the aggressive setting it’s pretty mild.   I wanted one though as it brought back memories of playing with my dad’s Gillette barn door razor as a kid.  It was in a keepsake box by then.  No blades.

My daily razor is an Ikon open comb with a long handle.  A fairly aggressive shaver.

@RodMI

Thank you for posting that up about getting a birth year razor - I am on the hunt for one on e-bay currently.  Long time ago a guy at work gave me a saftey razor - was trying to use it to shave a deer hide - I recently dug it out due to you guys talking about DE Safety Razors - I did not know it was from 1967 - black handle - it does a pretty sweet job.....

Red

I got some Taylor of Old Bond Street shave soap and Parker pure badger brush.  It makes a big difference.  I tried feather blades again and I had one very minor nick compared to several nicks before.  I don't think feather blades are for me but the soap seems to make every blade I try better.

There is something to that.   The wrong soap or the right soup but thinned too much will lack lubricity and cushion or float.   Col Conk soaps and a feather blade was a serious no go for me.   Col. Conk is fairly cheap so I tried it but with my hard water that style clear glycerine soaps work poorly.

Lots of variables.  Depends on the razor, blade, direction, and even the soap to a degree.   I get a clean shave going cross grain, but I still prefer a straight blade.

I tried a shark blade the other day and got a third of the way through and said screw this.  That thing didn't cut for shit.  I threw in a treet Platinum and finished.  The treet gives me a smooth shave but it's not quite aggressive enough


I tried a Dorco blade today and it gave me as close as a shave as feathers without a single nick.  It's my new favorite so far.  More aggressive than treet but still very smooth.

The razor handle is just as important as the blade. Every handle holds the blade at a different angel and that angle is the key to a shave. Most fixed angle handles are made for the masses but it might not be the best for you. Everyone’s beard and skin is different.

I had one of the popular fixed angle handles. I watched some videos on utube and there are several adjustable handles on the market. You can decide which angle works best on your skin, your beard and how you shave.

I bought a Rockwell 6S that has 3 adjustable plates that can be exchanged to give you 6 different angels. The 6S is stainless steel, USA manufactured and is a lifetime purchase. About $120 on Amazon. There are other adjustable handles, so you should check them out. It will make shaving more enjoyable. Attached File
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