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Originally Posted By jackthom8: wait until you see body/paint prices. boomers are the worst at this and still keep talking about stupid fucking earl schwab View Quote It was Earl Scheib, ya heathen! He painted my sister's 64 Galaxy convertible for $39.95 around 1977. It was supposed to be fire engine red, turned out more orangish red. Wheels and everything. After all the time my brother and I spent doing body work on that thing. We were always borrowing it, cruising around SoCal in an orange convertible with Sonotone mufflers and wide white walls that squealed no matter how slow we took the corners. I'm not sure cool was the word for it...but it was fun. |
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Originally Posted By ChuckD05: Local place here is $140/axle +tax for just pads. Hell I thought that was high View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By ChuckD05: Originally Posted By m411b30: Find a little shop and ask for a price. I see regular $1300 quotes for just brakes from Firestone. My shop will cost you $280+ tax for one side or the other. $560+ tax for both sides. A home town shop that has been around for 50 or 60 years is what you seek. ETA: For a complete front end suspension package and brakes on both sides you'd be looking at $1300-$1500... Those are probably the $12 recycled cow shit pads. I have no issue spending money on quality OEM or better pads with new caliper hardware. Shitty pads are dirty, noisy, and wear pretty damn fast. |
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Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the other have all been destroyed... |
Originally Posted By fxntime: Those are probably the $12 recycled cow shit pads. I have no issue spending money on quality OEM or better pads with new caliper hardware. Shitty pads are dirty, noisy, and wear pretty damn fast. View Quote I bought a jack and did EBC pads and rotors for $140 myself |
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I just did front calipers, rotors and pads on my 97 Sierra. $400 in parts and a nights work. Hardest part was bleeding them. I did, however, pay to have the transmission replaced on my wife's Suburban.
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All great change in America begins at the dinner table.
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Originally Posted By DayandNight1701: Just did spark plugs on a late model Jag V8. I think the total was over $1100 to the client. Our labor rate is $192 from $120 in 2019. I believe the dealers for highline(what I specialize in), are 300/hr. People are refusing to pay new car prices and paying whatever it costs to keep their current vehicle running. View Quote And the “whatever it costs” is being taken advantage of…. |
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"Some people talk about doing what others have actually done." -my teenage son
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Originally Posted By m411b30: We don't pad slap anything. New rotors and pads for everything. Premium. Just replacing pads is the wrong way. Unless they are also turning the rotors. Which I highly doubt. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By jackthom8: wait until you see body/paint prices. boomers are the worst at this and still keep talking about stupid fucking earl schwab View Quote This. Paint is now routinely $200-250 A PINT! Headlights are $1500 or more. I had a front facing camera the other day that was almost $1000. But to OP's post. We get about $300 an axle to do brakes here. And not sure what "suspension" is either. We just raised our labor rate to $115/hour. We kept it at $100 for quite a while but literallly everything is costing more. |
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The threat is real...
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"Most people don't understand inflation." -- an Economist
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The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; but he that stands it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman.
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Originally Posted By macman37: Everything costs more my guy. View Quote First they are going to charge 100% markup on the retail cost of the parts they're paying wholesale for, so you're already paying at least double before the first wrench gets turned. Then they are going to charge 200-300% markup on labor, because everything is a big corporate shop anymore so their overhead, investors, and over-deep management chain has to get paid too. A man can save a fortune these days turning his own wrenches. |
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I just got a box from Moss Motors, 4 NGK plugs, 3 OEM oil filters, OEM air filter, OEM alternator belt and something else for $114. It'll take me about 15 minutes to do the plugs.
I hate shitty design engines where basic maintenance is as close to impossible as can be made. Attached File |
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Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the other have all been destroyed... |
Surprisingly the Midas near me gives me great pricing. Have had them fix multiple cars, and they have not tried to screw me on price ever. I always double check parts prices on the interwebs. The guy that runs that location is a real stand up guy. Hope he keeps it for a long time.
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Dbl tap.
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All great change in America begins at the dinner table.
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Originally Posted By dempsy1: I've NEVER paid for a satisfactory brake job View Quote It's not that I'm cheap, well...maybe a little...it's that even for several thousand dollars you can't buy the job done correctly. Nobody checks fitment of pads so northern road salt won't make them lock up after one winter. Done correctly GM truck ceramic pads can go well past 50K miles. Nobody does them correctly. |
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OP expects the auto mechanic to work for free. Didn't we just have a thread on this FSA. BS?
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Soldier for Life
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Welcome to America
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He took whatever he wanted to and he laid it all to waste. But his bodyguards and silver cane were no match for the Jack of Hearts. Bob Dylan
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Originally Posted By xd341: This is the issue. It's not that I'm cheap, well...maybe a little...it's that even for several thousand dollars you can't buy the job done correctly. Nobody checks fitment of pads so northern road salt won't make them lock up after one winter. Done correctly GM truck ceramic pads can go well past 50K miles. Nobody does them correctly. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By xd341: Originally Posted By dempsy1: I've NEVER paid for a satisfactory brake job It's not that I'm cheap, well...maybe a little...it's that even for several thousand dollars you can't buy the job done correctly. Nobody checks fitment of pads so northern road salt won't make them lock up after one winter. Done correctly GM truck ceramic pads can go well past 50K miles. Nobody does them correctly. You mean like actually cleaning mating surfaces on the caliper and greasing the slide/contact points? It takes just a couple minutes but I'd bet 99% of all [paid] mechanics do as little actual prep and cleaning work as possible but they damn well will charge ''shop material'' fees 100% of the time. I'm an anal little shit in cleaning, lubing, and using proper lubes, sealants or antiseize on bolts and such. |
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Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the other have all been destroyed... |
Originally Posted By McGuy: If fucking millenials and zoomers would quit electing communists maybe the sticker shock wouldn't be so bad for the grownups. View Quote Attached File |
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I had the front end rebuilt on our '05 Ram 3500 flatbed dually. Inner/outer tie rods/ends, drag link, track bar bushings, steering stabilizer, upper and lower ball joints...parts and labor 2,381.00
160K miles on the truck, no deathwobble and my employees landing in a ditch, priceless. |
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My eight year old Jeep had the oil pressure sensor go out this week. Oil level and pressure is fine but the sensor reads 99 psi at all times, even when the motor is off.
I look up the part, $22. At, no problem. Then I watch a video on replacing it in the JK. Requires tearing top of the engine down, removing intake manifold and spacer to get to where the sensor is mounted to the block. A hundred places where you could put it, but it needs to be under the intake spacer nestled between the two heads. Jesus wept. I’m not touching this. Called three places I know locally, upwards of $500 labor. |
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Originally Posted By RevolverRO: My eight year old Jeep had the oil pressure sensor go out this week. Oil level and pressure is fine but the sensor reads 99 psi at all times, even when the motors off. I look up the part, $22. At, no problem. Then I watch a video on replacing it in the JK. Requires tearing top of t the engine down, removing intake manifold and space to get to where the sensor is mounted to the block. A hundred places where you could put it, but it needs to be under the intake spacer nestled between the two heads. Jesus wept. I’m not touching this. Called three places I know locally, upwards of $500 labor. View Quote That is an asshole engineer for you. I think my old Z, when it failed, took more time to crawl under the car then it took to unscrew it from the side of the block and screw a new one in. |
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Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the other have all been destroyed... |
Originally Posted By NwG: Without a detailed estimate it’s impossible to have an opinion on this… View Quote Agreed. For my F150, the suspension parts alone at a discount place were $850 plus tax and shipping. Ball joints, UCA's, stablizer bar links, bushings, inner and outer tie rods, shocks. It's a pretty big job, and it is a horrible job in the rust belt. That doesn't even cover the lower control arm bushings, which you often just replace the entire control arm to get a ball joint and new bushings. That puts the parts cost over $1200. Add the markup and that's easily $1500-$1800 in parts. I had additional costs for having a shop with a spring compressor change out the front struts, and for a alignment. $3000 sounds right. |
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Originally Posted By FALARAK: With garbage parts. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes |
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Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Took an old buddy of mine to get his car fixed, he’s kinda a retired hermit type (but a cool hermit type, he’s a former state pistol champ and flies model airplanes as his only social outlet) and keeps an ancient Crown Vic he’s had since new. The battery was giving him fits last year so I helped him get another this spring and noticed his terminals were corroded and the positive side was partially dissolved from lot-rot as he doesn’t drive it much. He was adamant that he was ok to clean up the connectors and tighten them down, so I left him to his devices. Fast forward a month and he’s calling this week me to help him out again because his “cheap Chinese battery took a shit on him!”…. I cleaned his terminals and tightened them as best I could and checked the battery voltage….. 12.67v… it fired right up. He had made arrangements to take it straight to the shop after “I jumped it for him” to get brakes, a front end, and to advise on the battery connections vs. just new cables…… Holy Fuck. They want more than $3,000! For a brake job amd suspension!! I had no idea I was this out of synch with the times, for me, $2k would have been a lot-and thank goodness I told my buddy I would change his alternator if he needed one or he may have asked for that too.. View Quote New rotors and pads all around and two new quick struts is roughly 400 from Rock Auto. Mechanics are expensive. It pays to learn some basic stuff. I have appearantly saved several thousand dollars over the last 5 years doing brakes and suspension alone on our cars. Not to mention some other small things. Worth noting some shops let you supply your own parts and still warranty their work, worth it to find a good shop like that. |
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Originally Posted By Idpapaperoperator: New rotors and pads all around and two new quick struts is roughly 400 from Rock Auto. Mechanics are expensive. It pays to learn some basic stuff. I have appearantly saved several thousand dollars over the last 5 years doing brakes and suspension alone on our cars. Not to mention some other small things. Worth noting some shops let you supply your own parts and still warranty their work, worth it to find a good shop like that. View Quote So rightfully so the people that can do those things get to charge well for it. |
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Originally Posted By RevolverRO: My eight year old Jeep had the oil pressure sensor go out this week. Oil level and pressure is fine but the sensor reads 99 psi at all times, even when the motor is off. I look up the part, $22. At, no problem. Then I watch a video on replacing it in the JK. Requires tearing top of the engine down, removing intake manifold and spacer to get to where the sensor is mounted to the block. A hundred places where you could put it, but it needs to be under the intake spacer nestled between the two heads. Jesus wept. I’m not touching this. Called three places I know locally, upwards of $500 labor. View Quote If you are going to replace the pressure sender, I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend you replace the oil cooler/oil filter housing assembly at the same time. Your JK has the "Pentastar" engine in it, and the factory oil cooler/oil filter housing assembly is known to leak where it mates to the top of the engine block. Once it starts leaking, it can cause water to get into the oil, or oil to get into the water. Neither of those conditions are good. Factory oil cooler/oil filter housing assemblies are made from plastic, and the difference in thermal expansion between that part and the aluminum engine block is what contributes to the failure of the O-rings and attendant leakage. Replacing an OEM one with another one of OEM design (be it Chrysler or chinese bullshit copies) will mean it will need to be done again, eventually. There are aftermarket units that are made from aluminum that addresss this difference in thermal expansion, and thus make the replacement a "do it once" type of job. The cost of the part is about $130 more that OEM, but you don't spend the cost once. |
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Originally Posted By McGuy: If fucking millenials and zoomers would quit electing communists maybe the sticker shock wouldn't be so bad for the grownups. View Quote Lol Attached File |
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Why is the sky blue?
What makes the green grass grow? |
Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Took an old buddy of mine to get his car fixed, he’s kinda a retired hermit type (but a cool hermit type, he’s a former state pistol champ and flies model airplanes as his only social outlet) and keeps an ancient Crown Vic he’s had since new. The battery was giving him fits last year so I helped him get another this spring and noticed his terminals were corroded and the positive side was partially dissolved from lot-rot as he doesn’t drive it much. He was adamant that he was ok to clean up the connectors and tighten them down, so I left him to his devices. Fast forward a month and he’s calling this week me to help him out again because his “cheap Chinese battery took a shit on him!”…. I cleaned his terminals and tightened them as best I could and checked the battery voltage….. 12.67v… it fired right up. He had made arrangements to take it straight to the shop after “I jumped it for him” to get brakes, a front end, and to advise on the battery connections vs. just new cables…… Holy Fuck. They want more than $3,000! For a brake job amd suspension!! I had no idea I was this out of synch with the times, for me, $2k would have been a lot-and thank goodness I told my buddy I would change his alternator if he needed one or he may have asked for that too.. View Quote F and R pads and rotors for a 95-97 crown vic are $175 from Detroit axle. I can change all four in less than an hour. It sucks that he can't do it himself. |
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Originally Posted By RevolverRO: My eight year old Jeep had the oil pressure sensor go out this week. Oil level and pressure is fine but the sensor reads 99 psi at all times, even when the motor is off. I look up the part, $22. At, no problem. Then I watch a video on replacing it in the JK. Requires tearing top of the engine down, removing intake manifold and spacer to get to where the sensor is mounted to the block. A hundred places where you could put it, but it needs to be under the intake spacer nestled between the two heads. Jesus wept. I'm not touching this. Called three places I know locally, upwards of $500 labor. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By fxntime: I just got a box from Moss Motors, 4 NGK plugs, 3 OEM oil filters, OEM air filter, OEM alternator belt and something else for $114. It'll take me about 15 minutes to do the plugs. I hate shitty design engines where basic maintenance is as close to impossible as can be made. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32224/IMG_2422_JPG-3205152.JPG View Quote I’d start thinking about replacing that discoloring 30 year old OE radiator, my man. Not the worst Miata radiator I’ve seen, but not the best. @fxntime |
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Wake up, wake up and smell the ashes.
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What is the suspension work. Bushings, ball-joints, tie-rod ends and shocks?
Or an alignment? |
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Originally Posted By Agilt: I’d start thinking about replacing that discoloring 30 year old OE radiator, my man. Not the worst Miata radiator I’ve seen, but not the best. @fxntime View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Agilt: Originally Posted By fxntime: I just got a box from Moss Motors, 4 NGK plugs, 3 OEM oil filters, OEM air filter, OEM alternator belt and something else for $114. It'll take me about 15 minutes to do the plugs. I hate shitty design engines where basic maintenance is as close to impossible as can be made. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/32224/IMG_2422_JPG-3205152.JPG I’d start thinking about replacing that discoloring 30 year old OE radiator, my man. Not the worst Miata radiator I’ve seen, but not the best. @fxntime Yeah, I just figured they came in that color until someone said when they browned, start thinking about replacing it. Nary a leak in the entire engine or drive train though. [probably jinxed myself now] Most parts still have the Mazda logo/stickers on them. |
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Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the other have all been destroyed... |
Originally Posted By FMJshooter: "Front suspension" could mean a lot of things. View Quote Agreed, I had a 99 Crown Vic, Lower ball joints, shocks, etc. I bet he needed both sides done. Girl at work was quoted over $1K for front brakes. I was stunned at her estimates. I'm so glad I can do a lot of that stuff myself. |
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Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs." |
Originally Posted By Lexustech48: Just used a set of Akebono ceramic pads for my 2001 RAV4. As a former Lexus technician, I was going to buy the Toyota pads but christ they wanted like $130 my price for JUST pads. for $140 I got the Akebono pads and 2 front rotors from Amazon. Ill say, the pad material is excellent. The backing plate was painfully obviously a multi fit design. I had to file the tabs to get them to fit and move in the caliper clips. definitely had minimal contact in the bracket and frankly disappointed considering that Akebone and Advics are partially owned by Toyota. Next time, Ill just pony up for the Toyota pads and shims. View Quote I didn't like the last set of akebono pads I got either. |
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Originally Posted By fxntime: That is an asshole engineer for you. I think my old Z, when it failed, took more time to crawl under the car then it took to unscrew it from the side of the block and screw a new one in. View Quote No, that’s an auto company that is totally dependent on selling its customers a new lease car every two years. They do this by making cars that require very expensive repairs after 80k miles…. At 40k, it’s a lease turn-in and then gets inspected and sold as a “pre-owned” car. Once that gets thru the second owner it is an (OMG!) Used Car….. Then it needs a front end, brakes, immediately, probably a water pump, then a sensor or two, and by 130k a transmission. All of this just magically ends up being the blue book value of the car…. |
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Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs." |
Originally Posted By psychotr: I didn't like the last set of akebono pads I got either. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By psychotr: Originally Posted By Lexustech48: Just used a set of Akebono ceramic pads for my 2001 RAV4. As a former Lexus technician, I was going to buy the Toyota pads but christ they wanted like $130 my price for JUST pads. for $140 I got the Akebono pads and 2 front rotors from Amazon. Ill say, the pad material is excellent. The backing plate was painfully obviously a multi fit design. I had to file the tabs to get them to fit and move in the caliper clips. definitely had minimal contact in the bracket and frankly disappointed considering that Akebone and Advics are partially owned by Toyota. Next time, Ill just pony up for the Toyota pads and shims. I didn't like the last set of akebono pads I got either. Are you both SURE they were actual Akebono parts and not chinee knockoffs? |
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Liberals are a curious mix of communism and fascism, they want to destroy you but want to use your own money to do it.
I'm getting down to the last box, the other have all been destroyed... |
I checked with 3 different garages near me to change my truck's rear differential fluid and was quoted $225-$250. That's like a 20-minute job and 2x quarts of gear oil. Friggin' ridiculous.
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Was at a Ford dealership picking up a few parts last summer.
They had these banners at the service department, credit available to pay for repairs. That's all I need to know about that. |
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Just spent $3k on vehicle maintenance today; tires, brakes, oil and filter and fluid changes.
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Originally Posted By Idpapaperoperator: New rotors and pads all around and two new quick struts is roughly 400 from Rock Auto. Mechanics are expensive. It pays to learn some basic stuff. I have appearantly saved several thousand dollars over the last 5 years doing brakes and suspension alone on our cars. Not to mention some other small things. Worth noting some shops let you supply your own parts and still warranty their work, worth it to find a good shop like that. View Quote I fix anything on my cars that I think I can get away with. Before the house fire, I regularly changed brakes and suspension, even did it after the fire out of my stepson’s house. I just can’t take on fixing my friend’s cars as a hobby so I was glad he took it to the shop on his own. I usually just go to Autozone and pick parts up. Yes, Rock Auto can be cheaper but when shit ain’t right and you get the wrong parts it’s a pain to deal with if you have limited time to wrench on cars. Autozone is right around the corner. |
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Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs." |
Originally Posted By m411b30: Find a little shop and ask for a price. I see regular $1300 quotes for just brakes from Firestone. My shop will cost you $280+ tax for one side or the other. $560+ tax for both sides. A home town shop that has been around for 50 or 60 years is what you seek. ETA: For a complete front end suspension package and brakes on both sides you'd be looking at $1300-$1600. Frost Alignment, Clarksville TN.. View Quote Is it common to only do brakes on one side vs front or back? |
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Did I just kill another thread?
We are in the middle of a Communist Revolution in the USA. There is no voting our way out of this. |
Originally Posted By Gspointer: What is the suspension work. Bushings, ball-joints, tie-rod ends and shocks? Or an alignment? View Quote I only got a glimpse, but it sounds like they are replacing everything, whether he needs it or not. Like I said, they never looked at the car, so they probably just clicked all the buttons for front end parts they could in their software and spat out the invoice. |
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Never make another person a priority when they merely see you as an option...
"Some People Are Like Slinkies. They're Not Really Good For Anything, But They Bring a Smile To Your Face When Pushed Down The Stairs." |
Originally Posted By psychotr: I didn't like the last set of akebono pads I got either. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By psychotr: Originally Posted By Lexustech48: Just used a set of Akebono ceramic pads for my 2001 RAV4. As a former Lexus technician, I was going to buy the Toyota pads but christ they wanted like $130 my price for JUST pads. for $140 I got the Akebono pads and 2 front rotors from Amazon. Ill say, the pad material is excellent. The backing plate was painfully obviously a multi fit design. I had to file the tabs to get them to fit and move in the caliper clips. definitely had minimal contact in the bracket and frankly disappointed considering that Akebone and Advics are partially owned by Toyota. Next time, Ill just pony up for the Toyota pads and shims. I didn't like the last set of akebono pads I got either. Sad to hear. That’s all I have used for a decade. |
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I had an ignition coil fail on my truck. I needed it fixed right fuckin now due to work so I took it to the dealership.
$450 A couple weeks later I bought all 8 ignition coils, spark plugs, and plug wires and replaced them all myself in an afternoon. $390. |
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