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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:07:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: armoredsaint]
Sorry if I am not explaining it correctly, I need to mount some equipment to my interior garage walls, my studs are 16" on center but the equipment mounting holes are only 10" apart, therefore I wanted to ask if plywood is the best material to use or is there something else better looking? The weight is about 60 lbs and I will use several 1/4" x 2.5 inch lag screws into the studs.
I found this pic, not mine but circled what this person did, not sure what kind of wood he used, but I will be painting mine to match or look more finished.  |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:08:18 PM EDT
[#1]
needs moar pics and/or MS paint.
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PA, USA
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:09:53 PM EDT
[#2]
We did something like that for a dust collector. Though we had a ladder frame for the plywood etc.
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:14:48 PM EDT
[#3]
It should be fine for most stuff. If you plan ahead, you can also add some 2x backing as needed for heavier items.
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:15:57 PM EDT
[#4]
I'd probably use a 1x.
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MN, USA
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:16:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: feelthepayne]
[#5]
3/4" ply would do just fine. Or you could lag a couple 2x4's or 2x6's to the studs if you're real worried but I think it would be overkill if it's just a 60# static load. Looks like the guy in your picture used a 2x8 pressure treated board.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:18:58 PM EDT
[#6]
3/4 plywood is good. Paint it if want to get fancy
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:33:12 PM EDT
[#7]
That picture appears to utilize a 2x6. For supporting 60 lbs and in an unconditioned garage, I'd probably go with a solid board rather than plywood, but that might just be me. I feel like plywood might de-laminate or warp given enough time. If ground contact, or it might get wet, I'd go pressure treated.
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:34:40 PM EDT
[#8]
i just noticed the MS paint in OP's not OP's pic.
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:37:49 PM EDT
[#9]
As long as you actually hit lumber with the lags you sent in, you're fine.
I'd be more worried about the dick in your driveway. |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:38:38 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By silascobb: That picture appears to utilize a 2x6. For supporting 60 lbs and in an unconditioned garage, I'd probably go with a solid board rather than plywood, but that might just be me. I feel like plywood might de-laminate or warp given enough time. If ground contact, or it might get wet, I'd go pressure treated. |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:39:08 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lattimer: As long as you actually hit lumber with the lags you sent in, you're fine. I'd be more worried about the dick in your driveway.  |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:39:32 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JLPettimoreIII: i just noticed the MS paint in OP's not OP's pic. Shit, I just did too. If you do what that guy did, but actually hit the center of the studs, you'll be fine. Paint, glitter, etc. are all up to you. |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:40:12 PM EDT
[#13]
Jus seent it lol
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:46:50 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lattimer: As long as you actually hit lumber with the lags you sent in, you're fine. I'd be more worried about the dick in your driveway.  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:47:51 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By armoredsaint: I was thinking some oak, birch or some finished wood from Lowes, I know it's not economical but it is solid and looks better i think. Sure, although if you are going to be painting it with a couple coats to match the wall, will you even be able to notice versus standard pine? |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:52:27 PM EDT
[#16]
You’re overthinking this, 60 pounds is not that heavy. You could mount it directly to drywall if you used some decent anchors. Personally, I’d just rummage around in the corner where I keep my wood scraps until i found something I didn’t need to cut to fit and put it up with a couple of decks screws.
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:52:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: zach_]
[#17]
Originally Posted By armoredsaint: Sorry if I am not explaining it correctly, I need to mount some equipment to my interior garage walls, my studs are 16" on center but the equipment mounting holes are only 10" apart, therefore I wanted to ask if plywood is the best material to use or is there something else better looking? The weight is about 60 lbs and I will use several 1/4" x 2.5 inch lag screws into the studs. I found this pic, not mine but circled what this person did, not sure what kind of wood he used, but I will be painting mine to match or look more finished. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/40454/IMG_3950_HEIC-3200924.jpg Looks like they lagged a 2x8 across the 16" centered studs, and mounted to the 2x8. |
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MN, USA
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:55:40 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By watgar: 3/4 plywood is good. Paint it if want to get fancy  Attached File3/4"is good for what you are installing. I have a piece of 3/4" painted/treated holding up 3 stage "big blue" filter at the cabin. |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 10:58:14 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CenterMass762: I'd probably use a 1x. OP at one time 1" think plywood was available but I have not seen it in a long time. I would use 3/4" plywood and then cut our another one the same size, glue and screw it to the first plywood and you will have a nominal 1.5" think mounting and I cant think of this not working. |
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Posted: 4/28/2024 11:00:42 PM EDT
[#20]
How many arfcommers does it take to hang 60 lbs from a wall?
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Posted: 4/28/2024 11:06:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DMG-LDS]
[#21]
no need for lags if its only 60lbs
home depot/ lowes has what you need |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 4/28/2024 11:13:21 PM EDT
[#22]
Or use a piece of e-track/unistrut to the studs.
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Posted: 4/29/2024 6:51:21 AM EDT
[#23]
Thanks gents. Helpful info.
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Posted: 4/29/2024 7:23:19 AM EDT
[#24]
 ...
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MO, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 7:34:29 AM EDT
[#25]
When I used to hang equipment professionally.. 3/4" fire rated / treated was standard. We also painted it. Sounds like you are on the right track.
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IL, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 7:34:41 AM EDT
[#26]
wouldn't 1 1/8" be the GD minimum with 1 1/4" better - whatever your hired man can put in place
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NC, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 7:45:35 AM EDT
[#27]
Originally Posted By armoredsaint: Sorry if I am not explaining it correctly, I need to mount some equipment to my interior garage walls, my studs are 16" on center but the equipment mounting holes are only 10" apart, therefore I wanted to ask if plywood is the best material to use or is there something else better looking? The weight is about 60 lbs and I will use several 1/4" x 2.5 inch lag screws into the studs. I found this pic, not mine but circled what this person did, not sure what kind of wood he used, but I will be painting mine to match or look more finished. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/40454/IMG_3950_HEIC-3200924.jpg That looks like 5/4 pt deck board Plywood should work fine as long as you get real plywood and not OSB |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 7:49:53 AM EDT
[#28]
Just grab a sheet of 3/4 ply or advantech, screw it to the framing with 2-1/2 or 2-3/4" deck screws, and hang your equipment with #12x1" or 1-1/4" screws. Don't bother with 1/4" lags, they are stupid. 60 lbs is nothing.
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ME, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 8:05:40 AM EDT
[#29]
Unistrut works great for mounting stuff to walls.
I would keep your drywall as it is less flammable than plywood which is important in a garage. Plywood may or may not be allowed as the finished wall surface depending on local code for that reason. |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 8:19:05 AM EDT
[#30]
When we built and renovated our house I was careful to add blocking between studs using short 2x4 pieces anywhere I wanted to mount stuff to the walls. And I have spots around the attic with pre-built blocking behind the upper walls for hanging deer and elk heads. There’s one spot on my ceiling I could hoist a Diesel engine from a truck without damaging the Sheetrock.
I could, as a result, hang off my TV like monkey bars, without ripping it from the wall. If you really want this done right, remove a section of drywall, add blocking, repair the drywall, paint, and install into that. Or get a bigger mounting plate that’ll stretch the 16” across studs. That’s likely what I’d do. A universal mounting plate is likely cheap and good-looking to boot. You could make such a plate from wood but it’ll look cheap. |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 8:25:49 AM EDT
[#31]
My shop dust collector has been hanging like that on 3/4" plywood for years, no problems. Depending on what you're mounting, you might want to use some rubber washers or standoffs with the mounting bolts to isolate vibration; having equipment mounted to the frame of the building like that can make a lot of noise if you happen to hit the harmonics lottery. Plywood or solid won't matter if you're going to paint it.
If you're dead set on spending more than you have to, you could use Baltic Birch plywood. It's a higher grade of plywood with thinner plies (just more of them) and few-to-no air pockets in the inner veneers. It's somewhat stronger than regular plywood (overkill here probably) but is nice to work with since it's so consistent. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 8:32:31 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 77Bronc: OP at one time 1" think plywood was available but I have not seen it in a long time. I would use 3/4" plywood and then cut our another one the same size, glue and screw it to the first plywood and you will have a nominal 1.5" think mounting and I cant think of this not working. My HD carries 15/16th plywood. Call it shrinkflation. |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 8:35:58 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fallen: You're overthinking this, 60 pounds is not that heavy. You could mount it directly to drywall if you used some decent anchors. Personally, I'd just rummage around in the corner where I keep my wood scraps until i found something I didn't need to cut to fit and put it up with a couple of decks screws. Really not that heavy - you should be fine. I have a set of QuickJacks coming this week I need to mount. Waiting to see how heavy they are. |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 11:50:22 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By watgar: Jus seent it lol https://i.postimg.cc/C1ZZGZ3t/Screenshot-20240428-193834.png Now, since I was led to it, I sent it too!!! LOL.. |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 11:54:56 AM EDT
[#35]
Plyeeewood or Strut. Plyeeewood is more easily sourced. 2x6's would work if you have them laying around.
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NE, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 12:05:50 PM EDT
[#36]
you can use painted steel plate or some steel framing member
take drywall down and put plywood behind drywall. |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 12:06:52 PM EDT
[#37]
That looks like a treated 2x8…
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NE, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 12:07:32 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By armoredsaint: I was thinking some oak, birch or some finished wood from Lowes, I know it's not economical but it is solid and looks better i think. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By armoredsaint: Originally Posted By silascobb: That picture appears to utilize a 2x6. For supporting 60 lbs and in an unconditioned garage, I'd probably go with a solid board rather than plywood, but that might just be me. I feel like plywood might de-laminate or warp given enough time. If ground contact, or it might get wet, I'd go pressure treated. put the blocking behind the drywall. finished high dollar wood, unless there are similar details would look just as out of place and 'too finished' |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 8:03:31 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SperlingPE: put the blocking behind the drywall. finished high dollar wood, unless there are similar details would look just as out of place and 'too finished' |
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MD, USA
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Posted: 4/29/2024 8:54:31 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By JLPettimoreIII: needs moar pics and/or MS paint. Looks like the Marines have invaded his garage. |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 9:11:15 PM EDT
[#41]
1/2" plywood will be more than sufficient for hanging 60 lbs off of.
3/4" will just cost you more. |
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Posted: 4/29/2024 9:32:25 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By armoredsaint: I agree blocking would be the best looking but more involved, did that previously at my last house. i suck at drywall repair/mudding Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By armoredsaint: Originally Posted By SperlingPE: put the blocking behind the drywall. finished high dollar wood, unless there are similar details would look just as out of place and 'too finished' You don’t need to worry about cutting and repairing drywall. There are a ton of options that require a minimum of work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051IBBUE?tag=arfcom00-20 These drywall anchors are tits. They will easily hold 60 pounds and you don’t have to do much more then drill a single hole. All that will be visible is a 3/4” plastic square and they are reusable. If that’s not good enough for you. These anchors hold a ridiculous amount of weight but require a bigger hole and are a little more difficult to install. They sell a version of if that is for mounting handicap grab bars to the wall. That’s how strong they are. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050SWUKK?tag=arfcom00-20 |
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Posted: 4/30/2024 9:08:38 AM EDT
[Last Edit: CenterMass762]
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 77Bronc: OP at one time 1" think plywood was available but I have not seen it in a long time. I would use 3/4" plywood and then cut our another one the same size, glue and screw it to the first plywood and you will have a nominal 1.5" think mounting and I cant think of this not working. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 77Bronc: Originally Posted By CenterMass762: I'd probably use a 1x. OP at one time 1" think plywood was available but I have not seen it in a long time. I would use 3/4" plywood and then cut our another one the same size, glue and screw it to the first plywood and you will have a nominal 1.5" think mounting and I cant think of this not working. I meant a regular pine 1x4/6/whatever is wide enough. The picture in the OP is using a scrap of treated 1" or 1¼" deck board that's working just fine. |
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Posted: 4/30/2024 9:12:12 AM EDT
[#44]
It used to be museum practice to sandwich 3/4" plywood between sheetrock (prevent flame spread) for gallery walls. The combination meant hanging heavy pictures was very doable.
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Posted: 4/30/2024 9:14:08 AM EDT
[#45]
Typically fasteners require 1” of penetration to properly hold. A 2x6 would work better.
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Posted: 4/30/2024 9:15:53 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Fallen: You don't need to worry about cutting and repairing drywall. There are a ton of options that require a minimum of work. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051IBBUE?tag=arfcom00-20 These drywall anchors are tits. They will easily hold 60 pounds and you don't have to do much more then drill a single hole. All that will be visible is a 3/4" plastic square and they are reusable. If that's not good enough for you. These anchors hold a ridiculous amount of weight but require a bigger hole and are a little more difficult to install. They sell a version of if that is for mounting handicap grab bars to the wall. That's how strong they are. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050SWUKK?tag=arfcom00-20 |
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Posted: 4/30/2024 9:20:22 AM EDT
[#47]
3/4” plywood is more than strong enough for that application. You could alternatively use pine lumber as well, but plywood is going to provide the best surface for mounting stuff.
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Posted: 4/30/2024 9:35:23 AM EDT
[#48]
Modern pressure treated stuff is corrosive. You'll probably not have an issue without the presence of water, but still you may want to avoid it.
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SC, USA
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Posted: 4/30/2024 9:40:23 AM EDT
[#49]
The “correct” way to do this is to block between the studs under the drywall. Usually with plywood.
Then you won’t see any blocking Otherwise, just block on top, plywood is fine, hardwood board would look nicer, and you could rout the edge to look nice |
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