User Panel
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I have an Inforce APL on my SIG. I like it quite a bit. Nice and bright with easy to work controls. View Quote I have one on a Glock 17 and love it as well. You can't really go wrong with Inforce, Streamlight, or Surefire. It just depends on how many lumens you want and which style switch you prefer. |
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I think it really depends on your technique. If you blip and move maybe, but I leave mine on while processing a space and have had zero problems with 1k lumens from a P3X even in tight single wides with white walls. There's also a 2,500 lumen X300 variant currently being field tested with excellent reviews. IMO people worry too much about "having too much light" when in actual low light encounters "I wish I'd had more light" seems to be far more common. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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TLR-1HL because it will melt your eyeballs in broad daylight. That bright is not always a good or smart choice. Splash back becomes a problem, especially in tight spaces like houses. There is such a thing as too bright. yep i learned that the hard way. anything really over 500lm is too much for a cqb light indoors. I think it really depends on your technique. If you blip and move maybe, but I leave mine on while processing a space and have had zero problems with 1k lumens from a P3X even in tight single wides with white walls. There's also a 2,500 lumen X300 variant currently being field tested with excellent reviews. IMO people worry too much about "having too much light" when in actual low light encounters "I wish I'd had more light" seems to be far more common. you really might want to to learn to use a weapon light. they teach "blip and move" for a reason. A weapon light is not nor should it be used for a general area light. the HO lights are generally used for longer range throw in open ground not indoors. |
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I think Surefire's new little XC-1 might be a real game-changa. http://www.guns.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/surefire-xc1-300x274.jpg View Quote How much rail does it need? I've got an M&P9c whose rail is just ever so slightly too short for the X300 that I'm used to. |
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Surefire X300U-B https://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server4300/9j9zreeu/products/48743/images/97659/X300U_B_2__27882.1443112901.1280.1280.jpg?c=2 View Quote I didn't realize Surefire had changed the X300 mounting setup. Looks more robust than the old rail clamp with the plastic rail grabber and tiny screws. That is the one thing that has bugged me about my X300u. I like the better throw of the X300u over the TLR1-HL. |
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I think it really depends on your technique. If you blip and move maybe, but I leave mine on while processing a space and have had zero problems with 1k lumens from a P3X even in tight single wides with white walls. There's also a 2,500 lumen X300 variant currently being field tested with excellent reviews. IMO people worry too much about "having too much light" when in actual low light encounters "I wish I'd had more light" seems to be far more common. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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TLR-1HL because it will melt your eyeballs in broad daylight. That bright is not always a good or smart choice. Splash back becomes a problem, especially in tight spaces like houses. There is such a thing as too bright. yep i learned that the hard way. anything really over 500lm is too much for a cqb light indoors. I think it really depends on your technique. If you blip and move maybe, but I leave mine on while processing a space and have had zero problems with 1k lumens from a P3X even in tight single wides with white walls. There's also a 2,500 lumen X300 variant currently being field tested with excellent reviews. IMO people worry too much about "having too much light" when in actual low light encounters "I wish I'd had more light" seems to be far more common. That could yield very dangerous results if your truly in a dangerous situation. Light and move don't highlight your position- be random. Eta- Beat by TheBeerSlayer |
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I love my surefire but you have to remove it from the rail to change the battery! WTF?
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I run the 2013+ version of TLR-1S (strobe) as it's a 300 lumen light. They can be had for around $95ish off Amazon with free shipping.
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X300 is my vote. I own a few and they are rugged, and reliable. That being said the TLR-1 I have is decent as well. it just don't seem to be a rugged to me. I have nothing to base that off of. it has never broken. It just doesn't seem as solid to me however. So, despite being able to buy 2 TLR's per surefire. I keep buying surefires.
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I'm happy with my Stream Light.
Mine is a TLR-2, has the Laser. |
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you really might want to to learn to use a weapon light. they teach "blip and move" for a reason. A weapon light is not nor should it be used for a general area light. the HO lights are generally used for longer range throw in open ground not indoors. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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TLR-1HL because it will melt your eyeballs in broad daylight. That bright is not always a good or smart choice. Splash back becomes a problem, especially in tight spaces like houses. There is such a thing as too bright. yep i learned that the hard way. anything really over 500lm is too much for a cqb light indoors. I think it really depends on your technique. If you blip and move maybe, but I leave mine on while processing a space and have had zero problems with 1k lumens from a P3X even in tight single wides with white walls. There's also a 2,500 lumen X300 variant currently being field tested with excellent reviews. IMO people worry too much about "having too much light" when in actual low light encounters "I wish I'd had more light" seems to be far more common. you really might want to to learn to use a weapon light. they teach "blip and move" for a reason. A weapon light is not nor should it be used for a general area light. the HO lights are generally used for longer range throw in open ground not indoors. lol I've had a fair bit of reputable instruction, including extensive FoF. I also happen to follow the Pat Rogers school of light usage and never really cared for the strobe method. And there's a pretty big gap between leaving it on all the time and flashbulbing. I do practice light discipline, but like I said when I'm processing a space(ie enter an individual room, collapse sector of fire, discern primary/secondary/tertiary threats etc)it's on. When I'm not, it's off. 1,000 lumens of light with the new models out there should cause zero problems. The P3X has the same head as the P2X fury, just a bit more intense and a noticeably shorter PID time in my experience. |
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lol I've had a fair bit of reputable instruction, including extensive FoF. I also happen to follow the Pat Rogers school of light usage and never really cared for the strobe method. And there's a pretty big gap between leaving it on all the time and flashbulbing. I do practice light discipline, but like I said when I'm processing a space(ie enter an individual room, collapse sector of fire, discern primary/secondary/tertiary threats etc)it's on. When I'm not, it's off. 1,000 lumens of light with the new models out there should cause zero problems. The P3X has the same head as the P2X fury, just a bit more intense and a noticeably shorter PID time in my experience. View Quote Approximately how long do you "process" a room and are you moving? |
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Alright a good old fashioned ARF dick measuring contest.
No offense eesmith..... |
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Approximately how long do you "process" a room and are you moving? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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lol I've had a fair bit of reputable instruction, including extensive FoF. I also happen to follow the Pat Rogers school of light usage and never really cared for the strobe method. And there's a pretty big gap between leaving it on all the time and flashbulbing. I do practice light discipline, but like I said when I'm processing a space(ie enter an individual room, collapse sector of fire, discern primary/secondary/tertiary threats etc)it's on. When I'm not, it's off. 1,000 lumens of light with the new models out there should cause zero problems. The P3X has the same head as the P2X fury, just a bit more intense and a noticeably shorter PID time in my experience. Approximately how long do you "process" a room and are you moving? Depends. How big is the room? How much stuff in there? Am I by myself, or with others and how many? Walmart or a warehouse will be approached differently than a residential structure and also on how many people are with me. I'd rather not clear by myself as that forces ugly compromises, but sometimes we don't have a choice. All things being equal, I'd prefer to clear as much of an individual space as possible from outside of it. Sometimes my light is on, sometimes it's off. But I certainly don't flashbulb, especially if I spot a potential threat. And the great thing about the new lights is they have enough power and spill I don't lose SA on an individual if I need to swing the light a bit to clear a little more. Another couple things about LEDs that many aren't aware of, is the fact the light from them is very flat where colors can be difficult to distinguish. Also they often have considerably more trouble punching through smoke and other things of that nature, both of which more lumens help with. Bottom line, Ive noticed an appreciably faster PID time and increases SA with the bigger lights and minimal dowsides. Head and reflector design is a big part of this, and I'd probably be more wary clearing a small house with something like a Scout versus a more powerful Fury that has a great reflector in it with plenty of spill. I too was once concerned about too many lumens and blinding myself, but I've since spent enough time with the new high output lights I'm not really worried about it any more. |
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Some variation of the Streamlight TLR-1. The basic, the strobe, or the high power one. They're all good. Avoid the temptation to save $30 by getting the TLR-3; they have a plastic body that will eventually crack.
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lol I don't consider it really dickwaving versus an earnest discussion. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Alright a good old fashioned ARF dick measuring contest. No offense eesmith..... lol I don't consider it really dickwaving versus an earnest discussion. And im not necessarily disagreeing either. I think when you say processing people, myself including, think smokebreak. Fwiw i use a light as little as possible, but as long as needed. |
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I have the Surefire X300U model on my Glock 17 and HK USP Tactical 45. With the USP, the Osprey mounts with some clearence. On the Glock though, I have to use an Octane since there's not enough room, I think the Streamlight is just a little lower. The have been countless threads on this and while Streamlight is leading in the poll, the majority of post have favored the Surefire. One thread actually showed them taken apart and the Surefire was much more robust then the Streamlight.
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I have the Surefire X300U model on my Glock 17 and HK USP Tactical 45. With the USP, the Osprey mounts with some clearence. On the Glock though, I have to use an Octane since there's not enough room, I think the Streamlight is just a little lower. The have been countless threads on this and while Streamlight is leading in the poll, the majority of post have favored the Surefire. One thread actually showed them taken apart and the Surefire was much more robust then the Streamlight. View Quote You got a link to that thread? |
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Quoted: I think Surefire's new little XC-1 might be a real game-changa. http://www.guns.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/surefire-xc1-300x274.jpg View Quote |
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I think Surefire's new little XC-1 might be a real game-changa. http://www.guns.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/surefire-xc1-300x274.jpg Yep. It's the first light that, IMHO, makes CCW with a WML actually practical. |
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How much rail does it need? I've got an M&P9c whose rail is just ever so slightly too short for the X300 that I'm used to. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I think Surefire's new little XC-1 might be a real game-changa. http://www.guns.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/surefire-xc1-300x274.jpg How much rail does it need? I've got an M&P9c whose rail is just ever so slightly too short for the X300 that I'm used to. Also would like to know if it will fit on an M&Pc. All my googling has been for nought. |
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Yep. It's the first light that, IMHO, makes CCW with a WML actually practical. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I think Surefire's new little XC-1 might be a real game-changa. http://www.guns.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/surefire-xc1-300x274.jpg Yep. It's the first light that, IMHO, makes CCW with a WML actually practical. To be fair, I think the Inforce APL is practical and isn't that much bigger than an XC1. It's been on my ccw for over a year now. I am planning on trying the Surefire though. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Overall, the Surefire is a better light, but Streamlight provides the best value for the money. That's why I picked the Streamlight.
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If you can afford a Nighthawk don't put a streamlight on it. View Quote ^^^^THIS^^^^ but... I have both and like both. For just HD use I say the Streamlight, due to the way it floods. For both carry and HD I would spring for the Surefire. But that being said I got both for about the same price. (Wal Mart Clearance FTMFW) |
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