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Really? Awesome... This gun has an A2 mounted with literally no room behind it where the bipod yoke meets it. Need pics to see if it will mount? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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In a couple of weeks I am loading up on ammo and running this thing through the ringer. Is there anything people would like to see me try with my gun? Any specific tests, positions, suggestions, etc? 100rd beta c mag dump suppressed I actually don't own a suppressor, and I am betting no one would let me borrow theirs for that test. My halo has a baffle strike already, so fuck it, why not? Really? Awesome... This gun has an A2 mounted with literally no room behind it where the bipod yoke meets it. Need pics to see if it will mount? Shoot me a close up, or bring it to FNRL sometime and we can test-fit |
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My guess is it's not going to work... http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i172/schkoot/20140717_200240_zps2wvvqrg5.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Shoot me a close up, or bring it to FNRL sometime and we can test-fit My guess is it's not going to work... http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i172/schkoot/20140717_200240_zps2wvvqrg5.jpg Nope, at least not with that flash hider. We'd need a Gemtech Quickmount Vortex flash hider to make it work, and I don't happen to have one. |
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My guess is it's not going to work... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Shoot me a close up, or bring it to FNRL sometime and we can test-fit My guess is it's not going to work... Try a Vltor VC-1, it has a little extra room and it's what I use for my Halo and it works great. |
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Fuck a bunch of BUIS, keep a mag of tracers handy. Or, move the optic back, and put the RBUIS backwards in front of it so it'll still pop up. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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One more thing about eye relief. I would say that, when I am proned out, I am at the absolute minimum acceptable eye relief with my build. It is one of those things I am still trying to find a better setup for. When I am offhand it's fine. I think i might get one of those Primary Arms Micros with a magnifier. I'm hoping it will extend over the BUIS better than my current setup. Or, move the optic back, and put the RBUIS backwards in front of it so it'll still pop up. I have a few hundred tracers. When I get the bipod mount, I'll post a dusk video. |
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I have a bunch of tracers, too. I just live in an area where it's easy to start fires...
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OK, I ordered a couple of cases of ammo for next weekend. Should be a good time. A buddy of mine I was in the USMC with (and now does cool-guy stuf for the army) and I are going to rrrrrrrreally going to put this through the paces. Aside from the traversing tests, we are going to test beaten zone @ 1000yds. I think I am going to use some actual M855 for that. Tulammo and wolf will probably be pretty inaccurate at that distance.
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OK, I ordered a couple of cases of ammo for next weekend. Should be a good time. A buddy of mine I was in the USMC with (and now does cool-guy stuf for the army) and I are going to rrrrrrrreally going to put this through the paces. Aside from the traversing tests, we are going to test beaten zone @ 1000yds. I think I am going to use some actual M855 for that. Tulammo and wolf will probably be pretty inaccurate at that distance. View Quote Might be more accurate than M855. Maybe some M193? |
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Might be more accurate than M855. Maybe some M193? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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OK, I ordered a couple of cases of ammo for next weekend. Should be a good time. A buddy of mine I was in the USMC with (and now does cool-guy stuf for the army) and I are going to rrrrrrrreally going to put this through the paces. Aside from the traversing tests, we are going to test beaten zone @ 1000yds. I think I am going to use some actual M855 for that. Tulammo and wolf will probably be pretty inaccurate at that distance. Might be more accurate than M855. Maybe some M193? You think? I have both. |
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OK, I ordered a couple of cases of ammo for next weekend. Should be a good time. A buddy of mine I was in the USMC with (and now does cool-guy stuf for the army) and I are going to rrrrrrrreally going to put this through the paces. Aside from the traversing tests, we are going to test beaten zone @ 1000yds. I think I am going to use some actual M855 for that. Tulammo and wolf will probably be pretty inaccurate at that distance. Might be more accurate than M855. Maybe some M193? You think? I have both. Someone will know better than I, but from what I've heard, M193 tends to be more accurate than M855 b/c of the unitary bullet construction. I'd be interested to see what your hold over is @ 1000 yds, regardless. |
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I got invited to roll with skillets...
I'll hopefully be able to see how well the ladder sight on my Thompson works |
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Quoted: I wonder what the drop on a .45 is out at 1000yds? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I got invited to roll with skillets... I'll hopefully be able to see how well the ladder sight on my Thompson works I wonder what the drop on a .45 is out at 1000yds? Range Vel impact drop TOF Ft-lbs drift
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Finished my home made bump stock:
This is a Delton rifle gas dissipator barrel with a .110 gas port. I'm using a standard buffer and AR 15 carrier as I didn't want to add extra weight. I've got a TUBB spring in it to hopefully speed the carrier up a bit. Trigger is a JARD 4.5lb, I believe they have a slower lock time than most the Geiselle triggers, so I'm hoping that will help prevent hammer follow if the trigger is pulled too early. Stock is an MOE fixed stock connected to a MIAD grip. I shortened the safety detent, used a different spring and threaded the hole, then put a short set screw in place. The MIAD is slotted internally so it rides on two roll pins and can't pull away from the receiver. I placed one roll pin through the receiver extension and a matching slot in the stock to set my slide length. I might use that in the future to pin a post that will stick down into the stock area and can be used to slide the rifle forward by the support hand. I need to make a new trigger finger stop out of some kydex, paint the screws and connector bar. |
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Finished my home made bump stock:http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_170052_zpsmzazrlcg.jpg http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_170021_zpsjnivg9wo.jpg This is a Delton rifle gas dissipator barrel with a .110 gas port. I'm using a standard buffer and AR 15 carrier as I didn't want to add extra weight. I've got a TUBB spring in it to hopefully speed the carrier up a bit. Trigger is a JARD 4.5lb, I believe they have a slower lock time than most the Geiselle triggers, so I'm hoping that will help prevent hammer follow if the trigger is pulled too early. Stock is an MOE fixed stock connected to a MIAD grip. I shortened the safety detent, used a different spring and threaded the hole, then put a short set screw in place. The MIAD is slotted internally so it rides on two roll pins and can't pull away from the receiver. I placed one roll pin through the receiver extension and a matching slot in the stock to set my slide length. I might use that in the future to pin a post that will stick down into the stock area and can be used to slide the rifle forward by the support hand. I need to make a new trigger finger stop out of some kydex, paint the screws and connector bar. View Quote Amazing! Can't wait to see how it works... |
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Finished my home made bump stock:http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_170052_zpsmzazrlcg.jpg http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_170021_zpsjnivg9wo.jpg View Quote Very nice! I'm working on mine today, but it's turning out pretty heavy, even before I put in any reinforcing bolts. Thanks for the tip on the safety detent. Could you post a couple of pics of how you connected the pistol grip in? |
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Here are some closeups with the grip removed.
Most of the cutting was done with a file. Some of it was done with some end mills in my drill press. Quite a bit of the material was difficult to clamp in my drill press so I just did it by hand. I used an 8-32 tap for the safety detent, it's a little on the loose side. You might find a metric tap that would fit better. The roll pins are 1/8" and cut to ~.550 in length. As long as both are in alignment the depth from the top of the grip isn't very crucial. Mine are placed at .140. The biggest issue I had was getting the steel bar bent correctly. I ended up twisting it a bit and it was a bear to line back up. I drilled and tapped the bar to match my holes in the stock. I've got plenty of bar left over so I could try and bend a new section. |
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Here are some closeups with the grip removed. http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_201526_zpscufizlct.jpg http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_201438_zpsbxivocbi.jpg http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_201358_zpsuw1d1ifx.jpg http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_201211_zpsxb0rwxfs.jpg Most of the cutting was done with a file. Some of it was done with some end mills in my drill press. Quite a bit of the material was difficult to clamp in my drill press so I just did it by hand. I used an 8-32 tap for the safety detent, it's a little on the loose side. You might find a metric tap that would fit better. The roll pins are 1/8" and cut to ~.550 in length. As long as both are in alignment the depth from the top of the grip isn't very crucial. Mine are placed at .140. The biggest issue I had was getting the steel bar bent correctly. I ended up twisting it a bit and it was a bear to line back up. I drilled and tapped the bar to match my holes in the stock. I've got plenty of bar left over so I could try and bend a new section. View Quote You're killing me......Shoot it. |
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Here are some closeups with the grip removed. http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_201526_zpscufizlct.jpg http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_201438_zpsbxivocbi.jpg http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_201358_zpsuw1d1ifx.jpg http://i739.photobucket.com/albums/xx39/jaqufrost/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-07/20140719_201211_zpsxb0rwxfs.jpg Most of the cutting was done with a file. Some of it was done with some end mills in my drill press. Quite a bit of the material was difficult to clamp in my drill press so I just did it by hand. I used an 8-32 tap for the safety detent, it's a little on the loose side. You might find a metric tap that would fit better. The roll pins are 1/8" and cut to ~.550 in length. As long as both are in alignment the depth from the top of the grip isn't very crucial. Mine are placed at .140. The biggest issue I had was getting the steel bar bent correctly. I ended up twisting it a bit and it was a bear to line back up. I drilled and tapped the bar to match my holes in the stock. I've got plenty of bar left over so I could try and bend a new section. View Quote So does it feel like you could run it through its paces and have it hold up? How does it slide back and forth? Does it hang up on the receiver? These are things I've wondered about the DIY versions. |
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The stock originally had a metal spring clip that kept the stock tight, I removed the clip and it slid back and forth freely. Originally it was prevented from sliding off by a screw that passed in front of the bottom rail of the receiver extension. I left the screw out and limited rearward travel with a roll pin that passes through slots cut in the stock and the last stock position in the receiver extension. Forward travel is limited by the stock impacting the receiver.
I had a little binding where the front extension of the stock would kink when I put rearward pressure on the grip, I fixed that by kinking the attachment bar slightly. I considered gluing the two portions together, but I haven't done it yet. I've currently got the stock travel limited to about 3/16. How much travel does the fostech have?
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The stock originally had a metal spring clip that kept the stock tight, I removed the clip and it slid back and forth freely. Originally it was prevented from sliding off by a screw that passed in front of the bottom rail of the receiver extension. I left the screw out and limited rearward travel with a roll pin that passes through slots cut in the stock and the last stock position in the receiver extension. Forward travel is limited by the stock impacting the receiver. I had a little binding where the front extension of the stock would kink when I put rearward pressure on the grip, I fixed that by kinking the attachment bar slightly. I considered gluing the two portions together, but I haven't done it yet. I've currently got the stock travel limited to about 3/16. How much travel does the fostech have? View Quote Well it has a setscrew thing that makes it tighten up really well when in the non-bump mode. I have it out to about 1/16" and it moves another 1" exactly, so the total potential movement of the stock is 1 1/16". That's way more than you need. I would say it's possible to get it done with 3/16". If you can get it out to 1/2" that would be ideal. |
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Does it activate and reset decently? I am curious to see it work.
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I haven't been able to shoot it yet. Sliding it by hand it resets and trigger fine. The JARD has a short reset, so it really doesn't need much. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Does it activate and reset decently? I am curious to see it work. Interesting. I'll be excited to see if it works. |
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Does the stock need to be physically attached to the rifle to bump fire? In other words, if the bump fire stock just slides on & off the carbine tube, it wouldn't work as a regular stock - but would it work as a bump fire stock only?
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It would work, but I'd much rather have it where it won't slide off.
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That's a lot more difficult to engineer in a build it yourself kit.
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What stock are you wanting to use? Maybe I can help come up with a method.
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I think you may have some material failure issues View Quote You'd think so, but w/ enough 10-24 threaded steel rods reinforcing the thing: 24 rounds of 3" 00 12 ga Oh, and there was some super glue & 2-part epoxy involved. |
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You could mill one of the stock position in the receiver extension so it has a 1/4" of extra movement. Then use a single post to go inside of that position's hole and allowing the front-back movement needed.
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Oh, I can build a 2-part stock that slides on brick parts, but that's a lot more complex than a stock that slides on a mil-spec buffer tube.
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If anyone is looking for a GG&G bipod someone has one posted on gunbroker for $150. Unrated seller though.
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This thread is bad for my checkbook. Just ordered a 9mm Beta C.
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This thread is making me want to buy a Fostech defendAR-15 stock for my dissipator build. We also need some more pictures and videos in this thread.
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Actually driving back off the mountain with Madcap72 right now. We took it out to 550yds and it seemed to do great as far as accuracy goes. I did, however, have a lot of ammo and trigger related stoppages. Ended up doing a field trigger swap for my rock river 2 stage. It definitely helped quite a bit, but the ammo issues persisted. I have a few videos I will upload later.
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The only reason my bipod is on the barrel now is that it was how the M60 bipod was designed to be. It has a classic look that (when offered to me by a poster here) I couldn't say no to. I think if I were trying to do something more "modern carbine" looking, I'd probably use the GG&G bipod http://www.primaryarms.com/v/vspfiles/photos/GGG-1125-2T.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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So badass. I really like the fostech. Could you do this with a shrike upper and a rail mounted bipod? How much difference is the rail vs. On the bbl? The only reason my bipod is on the barrel now is that it was how the M60 bipod was designed to be. It has a classic look that (when offered to me by a poster here) I couldn't say no to. I think if I were trying to do something more "modern carbine" looking, I'd probably use the GG&G bipod http://www.primaryarms.com/v/vspfiles/photos/GGG-1125-2T.jpg Do you see any possible problem with the gun being able to move enough with a bipod like this, without damaging the bipod? What if I were shooting from a solid surface like a table as opposed to dirt? I have read where you modified the M60 bipod to allow for some give. Would that be necessary with this bipod? ETA: I see where you answered this question with "dremel" a couple of post later. |
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Hey skillet
I'm thinking about building up one of my AR's with a fostech stock along with a Geissele SD3G. I was wondering what is the best for this trigger and stock setup for the least amount of failures? A semi/full auto bolt carrier? And which buffer to go along with it a H1,H2 or H3 Also is there anyway you could post up a couple of pictures of your current setup? |
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I have only a couple of videos worthy of posting from yesterday. Too many ammo failures and again some issues with the "hammer follow" I discussed earlier. Still a good time getting out and sunburned. Here is Madcap72 on my gun. http://youtu.be/NUZy3faIegY View Quote Disapointed. I was expecting a dude with an Aussie style hat. |
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So, for background to the video, that was the first time I have ever gotten to fire a bumpfire gun, and I was making rapid accurate hits at 550.
The thing is a beast. Skillets was keeping a group at a high cyclic rate at that distance, that is as good as many peoples slow fire groups at the same range. From a conceptual standpoint I think it's really freaking effective and can see why the M27 IAR could be a lot more effective than a SAW. |
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